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Jimny rear shock stuck - advice

 
 
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Terios2004
Gate Opener


Joined: 03 Jul 2016
Odometer: 47
Location: Doncaster



PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2018 6:23 am    Post subject: Jimny rear shock stuck - advice Reply with quote

Hi, starting to fall out with the Jimny already. Had it a month before steering wobble started, and now this. Bought some new bits for it, and need to remove the old shocks. Obviously everything is crusty, but can't remove the top bolts on rear shocks - any advice on this? (Never had these issues on the old Terios!)
Cheers

__________________________________
Terry the Terios has a new home
Little Jim - may be set on fire!!
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StuartL
Just got MTs


Joined: 19 Mar 2007
Odometer: 247
Location: Thatcham, Berkshire, UK


1994 Suzuki Vitara

PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2018 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use a decent penetrating oil several times over several days prior to next removal attempt. The oil will creep into the threads and make it easier to break them free.

You can also try heating/cooling the bolts with a blow torch and ice, that's often enough to assist in breaking the bite.

Also: Get new bolts in advance, then you can put the new ones in immediately.
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Terios2004
Gate Opener


Joined: 03 Jul 2016
Odometer: 47
Location: Doncaster



PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2018 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, tried and failed! It's gone to the garage - see what they can do.
__________________________________
Terry the Terios has a new home
Little Jim - may be set on fire!!
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sj_durham
Just got MTs


Joined: 11 Nov 2009
Odometer: 194
Location: Durham-UK



PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2018 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Terios2004 wrote:
Hi, tried and failed! It's gone to the garage - see what they can do.


I had a old jimny that was pretty crusty underneath from farm life.

2 Days under it with power bars and a blow torch to get the rear shock bolts off....... I sold the car after as it was too coroded to work on practically, the shell was good though so go figure.

If yours is bad under it get it well cleaned. Get the garage to loosen up all the bits you want to work on too and copper grease them for you.

__________________________________
"If i can not fix it myself, i do not want to own it"

LWB Sj-92
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Terios2004
Gate Opener


Joined: 03 Jul 2016
Odometer: 47
Location: Doncaster



PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2018 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Garage sorted - took plenty of heat! Now to look at track rod ends and castor correction and ......
__________________________________
Terry the Terios has a new home
Little Jim - may be set on fire!!
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w3526602
Difflock Royalty


Joined: 10 Jun 2002
Odometer: 10758
Location: Glynneath, South Wales



PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2019 5:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

There is a tool that screws a chisel into one flat on the nut, nut splits and opens up. I don't know what the tool is called.

Me? If there is room, and not near the fuel tank, I use an angle grinder with a cutting disc.

If it's a nut and bolt , I run the disc end-ways down the centre-line the nut and bolt ... the nut falls off in two halves, and I have to buy a new nut and bolt.

If the nut is on a stud, I run the disc endways into the nut, as close to the stud as I can ... skimming the stud threads shouldn't cause too much of a problem, but only you can make that judgement. As the nut is no longer a "full circle", it will not be such a tight fit on the stud, and you will have both a wider "flat" for your stiltsons, and the nut will have enjoyed both heat and vibration. On rare occasions, I have had to use the cutting disc to chop a lump off both side of the nut ... the nut comes off in four pieces, hopefully leaving the thread on the stud almost untouched.

602

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Don't force it, use a bigger hammer, cos if it doesn't fit, the hammer is not big enough.
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