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Terios2004 Gate Opener
Joined: 03 Jul 2016 Odometer: 47 Location: Doncaster
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Posted: Tue May 01, 2018 6:23 am Post subject: Jimny rear shock stuck - advice
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Hi, starting to fall out with the Jimny already. Had it a month before steering wobble started, and now this. Bought some new bits for it, and need to remove the old shocks. Obviously everything is crusty, but can't remove the top bolts on rear shocks - any advice on this? (Never had these issues on the old Terios!)
Cheers
__________________________________ Terry the Terios has a new home
Little Jim - may be set on fire!! |
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StuartL Just got MTs
Joined: 19 Mar 2007 Odometer: 247 Location: Thatcham, Berkshire, UK
1994 Suzuki Vitara
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Posted: Tue May 01, 2018 9:00 am Post subject:
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Use a decent penetrating oil several times over several days prior to next removal attempt. The oil will creep into the threads and make it easier to break them free.
You can also try heating/cooling the bolts with a blow torch and ice, that's often enough to assist in breaking the bite.
Also: Get new bolts in advance, then you can put the new ones in immediately.
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Terios2004 Gate Opener
Joined: 03 Jul 2016 Odometer: 47 Location: Doncaster
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Posted: Mon May 21, 2018 8:19 pm Post subject:
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Hi, tried and failed! It's gone to the garage - see what they can do.
__________________________________ Terry the Terios has a new home
Little Jim - may be set on fire!! |
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sj_durham Just got MTs
Joined: 11 Nov 2009 Odometer: 194 Location: Durham-UK
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Posted: Sun May 27, 2018 12:35 pm Post subject:
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Terios2004 wrote: | Hi, tried and failed! It's gone to the garage - see what they can do. |
I had a old jimny that was pretty crusty underneath from farm life.
2 Days under it with power bars and a blow torch to get the rear shock bolts off....... I sold the car after as it was too coroded to work on practically, the shell was good though so go figure.
If yours is bad under it get it well cleaned. Get the garage to loosen up all the bits you want to work on too and copper grease them for you.
__________________________________ "If i can not fix it myself, i do not want to own it"
LWB Sj-92 |
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Terios2004 Gate Opener
Joined: 03 Jul 2016 Odometer: 47 Location: Doncaster
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Posted: Sat Jun 02, 2018 8:28 pm Post subject:
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Garage sorted - took plenty of heat! Now to look at track rod ends and castor correction and ......
__________________________________ Terry the Terios has a new home
Little Jim - may be set on fire!! |
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w3526602 Difflock Royalty
Joined: 10 Jun 2002 Odometer: 10758 Location: Glynneath, South Wales
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Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2019 5:55 am Post subject:
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Hi,
There is a tool that screws a chisel into one flat on the nut, nut splits and opens up. I don't know what the tool is called.
Me? If there is room, and not near the fuel tank, I use an angle grinder with a cutting disc.
If it's a nut and bolt , I run the disc end-ways down the centre-line the nut and bolt ... the nut falls off in two halves, and I have to buy a new nut and bolt.
If the nut is on a stud, I run the disc endways into the nut, as close to the stud as I can ... skimming the stud threads shouldn't cause too much of a problem, but only you can make that judgement. As the nut is no longer a "full circle", it will not be such a tight fit on the stud, and you will have both a wider "flat" for your stiltsons, and the nut will have enjoyed both heat and vibration. On rare occasions, I have had to use the cutting disc to chop a lump off both side of the nut ... the nut comes off in four pieces, hopefully leaving the thread on the stud almost untouched.
602
__________________________________ Don't force it, use a bigger hammer, cos if it doesn't fit, the hammer is not big enough. |
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