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Not ANOTHER Dirt Honda Racer Bill!
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Redliner
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 24, 2016 6:53 am    Post subject: Not ANOTHER Dirt Honda Racer Bill! Reply with quote

Just bought myself my 2017 spare dirt racer for the rougher tracks where Iíd damage my V6 Civicís fiberglass body work. I had a disposable one last year that I literally had ripped to pieces (see WJP004 on You Tube), - but this one is a keeper. H22A V-Tec 5 speed manual that went like a scalded cat up the 2km road to my place. A racing mate put me onto it on Gumtree. Guy wanted $500 so I let it sit for 2 weeks for him to get depressed (A common tactic of mine on cars run out of rego). Then he wanted $300. By the time I arrived this morning it had developed a hunt on cold idle, so I knocked him down to $200. Those cold idle valves gum up & take 10 minutes to clean & re-fit. Gonna budget prep it - sump guard, spacer plates to raise the front, braces and gut the buggery outta it.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buth...o_zpsruhd5hee.jpg
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buth...o_zpspmcxqur9.jpg
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buth...o_zpszivvwfna.jpg
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mike328
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 24, 2016 4:40 pm    Post subject: Re: Not ANOTHER Dirt Honda Racer Bill! Reply with quote

Looks like a nice little project Smile Made photos show here for you...

Redliner wrote:




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Redliner
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 24, 2016 10:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is the EVO bonnet and flared guards I made for a mate's DC2 Integra that I'm gonna re-sculpt onto the front of my Prelude BB5. Gotta get a stock front bar from somewhere. Not another bloody wreck!
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Redliner
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 25, 2016 6:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spoke with the mate who I built the H22A DC2 dirt car today. Unbelievably he has just bought a DC2 which he is wrecking for parts, and has a front bumper I can use to make my front end for the Interlude. So I have all the panels I need to be able to graft & sculpt that new one piece front end.
Just laid up the bonnet & flared Integra guards I am going to use to sculpt my new hinged one piece front end for the Prelude. Tomorrow I'll pop them out & attack the Prelude with the angle grinder.

[/img]
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Redliner
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 26, 2016 3:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just popped the Integra front panels out of my molds. Got a fair bit of "Alligatoring" on both guards. This is a rippling, crazed finish to the surface caused by the Gelcoat being too thin & heating up & distorting as the resin cures over it. This was probably worsened by me making these panels thinner than normal as they're only gonna be used as a die. Shoulda given them two coats of what is probably old product. Easy to be wise after. Normally I'd chuck these away, but a coat of Fairing compound & a sand will quickly overcome this. So don't be discouraged if you have the occasional problem with fiberglassing - everyone does!

[img[http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/Interlude/Snapshot29_zpszrqxxgzo.jpg[/img]

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Nightbar
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 26, 2016 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice work, thanks.
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Redliner
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 26, 2016 11:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is gonna work. The flared guards pretty well fit just with a little overlapping onto what I've left of the OME ones. The Integra scooped bonnet will need widening and blending into the back of the OME one. My next work will probably be cutting the bonnet so it's only 200mm long. That way I get the perfect shape for the bottom of the Prelude windscreen. The sides of the new bonnet have to match the shape of the new guards. Cut & paste with the angle grinder. Lovin' it!





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Redliner
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2016 8:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Picked up the Integra front bar from my mate's wreck... last piece of DC2 front bodywork I need. Thanks mate. A perfect candidate for sculpting as it has a few holes & scratches on it, easily repaired as I turn it into a die.


[/img]
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Redliner
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2016 8:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The DC2 head lights are all plastic, perfect for an angle grinder attack to trim them right back for fitting to the die considering I will not be running any OME headlights on this car. In the very rare event of a day/night race Iíll just fit a light bar. I also glued the parkers in place and started to bog over those holes completely. I tried cutting a pattern to blank in the grill opening from the front, but it turned out to be easier to just cut off all the grill egg crate plastic work and get a flat board to fit in behind the front bar. I also screwed & glued the DC2 guards to the Prelude cut off ones and began blending the two together with Fairing Compound. Things are taking shape quickly. The Integra EVO bonnet panel canít be exactly positioned & glued to the Prelude one until the front bar is glued in place.
The deep grill opening is a layup problem I have to overcome. Normally I glass over these with the front bar facing skywards so the cloth hangs effectively on both top & bottom edges of the grill recess. But this time all that will be part of the single one piece die Ė which will be bolted onto the car. So Iím either gonna have to figure out how I can still do this particular part of laying up on the car Ė or whether I need to remove the die from the car to mold it (and if so HOW to unbolt it) Ė or whether I need to layup the guards & bonnet on the car, and somehow layup the front bar section afterwards. Hhmmm! But the car already looks like a DC2!
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Redliner
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2016 9:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thought about how best to lay up that front grill opening and Iíve worked out the best way to probably do it is to divide the front bar not at the bonnet join line, but lower down along the top edge of the front bumper. That way I can detach the bar from the car, mold the bottom two thirds of it (including a mold joining flange), and then re-fit the bumper to the car for the final blending of panels into a single front section Ė then mold the remaining bonnet/headlights section and the two guard sections on the car. Might be easier to understand when I post pics of when I get to that.
Today was 40+ here Ė the hottest day of 2016, so I worked on my house from dawn till 10am. Then just before sundown I positioned the front bar so it was perfectly level. This took a bit of fiddling because the d/s front of the car took most of the crash impact and I discovered when I couldn't get the DC2 bar to sit level that the framing behind where the headlight used to be was twisted down...easily fixed with my favorite sledge hammer. Next I started blending the flared guards onto the front bar on either side using cardboard to form the wheel arch and fairing compound to fill in the curves. Cardboard!!! Yes, because I have to be able to detach the front bar from the car after this work so I can mold it off the car in a vertical position, and the cardboard will just rip away.
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Redliner
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 01, 2017 3:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the front bar off the Prelude and normal temperatures today I finished blending the flared DC2 guards onto the back edges of the OME Prelude ones. I added red tint to the fairing compound to make it easier to see and sand each successive layer of filling. Iíve also got most of the alligatoring smoothed over now. From this point on (after a sand), Iíll use gyprock filler to finish things off until I put the front bar back on the car.


The wheels on this Prelude have as new 16 inch high quality street radial tyres on them, but I need to drop back to fifteens which are the size most readily available in used rally tyres (which will be fine for this backup car). So I looked up my pcd wheel chart to see what other cars might run the same stud pattern Ė hoping for a rwd car with itís wider offset when fitted to a fwd car. Didnít know what Iíd do with the 16 inch tyres.
Whatayareckon Ė the wheels on my tow car ute are the same pattern Ė and it needs new tyres! So I know where that great rubber off the Prelude is going. KaaaÖching!$$$ But I need fifteens. I jump on the local internet classifieds and thereís a set of 15Ē Ford mags near where Iím going Tuesday. Heís got $120 on them, but says heíll take $80 when I press him (thereís no market for stock diameter mags these days). Check out the increased track when I test fitted my spare uteís wheel on the Interlude. Might have to make a set of rear flares too! Good start to the New Year!
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Redliner
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2017 2:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Having removed the front bar from the car, I have just finished getting it ready for molding the lower half. This included smoothing over the side parker holes, blanking off the radiator opening, making the joining flange out of aluminium & clay, and sealing all the work with 2 pack high gloss floor paint. Now I can proceed to fiberglassing it.



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Redliner
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2017 7:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After Wattyl 7008, release wax & PVA release I have just applied Gelcoat to the lower half of the front bumper. Think I'll give it two coats to avoid alligatoring again. Don't want that in a mold.Tomorrow I will lay it up with the hairy stuff. Notice how the parker/front trafficators are now gone? Much smoother shape.
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Redliner
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2017 2:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fiberglass cloth doesnít take a sharp ninety degree bend well (unlike gelcoat). Result? You get air pockets between the gelcoat & cloth, and the gelcoat just breaks away once you unpack the lay up from your mold. I overcome this by laying a bead of car bog or fairing compound with a little resin in it along such sharp edges before applying csm. Iíve colored it orange so you can see it better. Once that dried I fully laid up the lower half of the front bar for the Interlude.



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Redliner
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2017 1:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This morning I was able to trim the front bar lower half mold & remove the aluminium strip that formed my joining flange for the bonnet section to bolt up to. I have to leave this mold on the die so I have that fiberglass lip to form itís matching side against, so the bar & mold were re-fitted to the car and now I can glue the EVO scooped DC2 bonnet in place and blend all four panels into a single shape.



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Redliner
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2017 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have finished bonding & blending all the panels together on the car with Fairing Compound for my DC2 front end. Now I have begun final smoothing with Gyprock/Drywall joint filling compound which is super easy to sand by hand like a very soft plaster.
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Redliner
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2017 2:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This will be the final coat of Gyprock/Drywall filler for my die. I added blue tint this time to make it easier for both you & I to see. I have the DC2 Integra bonnet & guards completely blended into the Prelude ones. A light sand and a coat of sealer will allow me to start fitting the joining flange walls shortly.

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Redliner
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2017 2:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TWO WAYS TO MAKE FIBERGLASS MOLD JOINING FLANGES (there are others too). My favorite over multi curved surfaces and/or where the flange line cannot be straight is to use clay Ė cheap firing clay I buy in 4kg blocks from pottery hobby shop suppliers (not those shops). It can be re-used as long as you store it in a wet towel & plastic bag. If it dries right out Ė just rehydrate it with water.


The other method uses 25mm aluminium strip (find in your hardwareís tiling section). Cuts and gaps are easily filled with clay. When the second side is layed up the strip screw holes need to be filled in. Simple.

A single, unpolished coat of wax is all I apply before PVA release.
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Redliner
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2017 5:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fiberglassing of the guard moulds has begun! First of two coats of brush on Gelcoat.

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Redliner
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2017 9:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got up at 6.30am and went straight out to lay up my first Interlude front guard mould as today is forecast over forty one degrees here today. We're in the middle of a major heatwave

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Redliner
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2017 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

All the joining flange form work for the bonnet have been created by the layup of both front guards and the lower front of the bumper. I need to pick up more Gelcoat from my supplier tomorrow, and then this last, main piece of the DC2 front end mould can be fiberglassed. This shot also shows how I have blended the front bar, bonnet and guard into a single shape.
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Redliner
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2017 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the gelcoat on for the main bonnet section of my DC2 front end mould. Gonna give it two coats to guarantee no alligatoring. Itís really only now when you coat your sculpting with something opaque that you can really see the end result of your labours from the repeated filling & sandings. Looks much smoother than the factory I reckon.



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Redliner
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2017 7:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I laid up the main central bonnet section of the Integra front mould on my Prelude today, having waited for a sub thirty degree day to avoid premature hardening. I incorporated a stiffening rib across the back edge of the bonnet to the mould which will ensure copies are not warped at all. This DC2 front end mould is now finished.



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Redliner
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2017 11:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I popped the four Integra front moulds off the Prelude. Only a few very minor faults thatíll be easily fixed before I copy them. Then I completely removed the die I sculpted from the car so itís ready for test fitting the one piece front as soon as Iíve laid that upÖ and that stage is where thereís a few tricks involved that I will of course share with you as I build.





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Redliner
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2017 10:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the fiberglass rear bootlid I made for the Interlude fitted, along with my Pikes Peak style rear wing base.

The fiberglass/Kevlar sunroof replacement panel with it's WRX scoop is bogged in, and saves me 25kg.

I had some polished stainless steel ducting left over from our new kitchen exhaust range hood - ideal material from which to make a cold induction air box that will receive pressured air through the dummy headlight hole. This is WAY better than warm air from inside the engine bay as the previous car's owner (and most young street tyro's) had done. A swimming pool skimmer box filter sock over the pod filter more than doubles it's life in the dust, and it is easily removed & washed or cheaply replaced. Cold, clean pressurised air.... one of the most neglected free sources of more power. A walk around the pits will show you that 95% of cars at any car racing meet at our level will have overlooked it.


I started sculpting the rear flared & scooped guards for my Prelude dirt racer today by re-cycling the parts I made & used for sculpting the front guards. These will be add-on panels that will go over the OME ones. Right from the get-go they look awesome....wait till I add the air scoops between them & the door edge. Although I could just screw all the sculpting pieces to the car, mold it on the car & then cut it off - I will instead work out a way of doing the sculpting so I can easily remove the die off the car. This will make fiberglassing the inner edges possible with the sculpture lying flat because these flares need flanges blended in to join the m to the OME rear wheel arch edge and to avoid you seeing the factory panel it will bolt over.
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Redliner
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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2017 2:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

With fresh fiberglass supplies I can now make copies from various existing molds of mine to make the scoops and extra flared guard lips I need to sculpt the rear wide body parts for my Honda Interlude dirt car build. I hope to be cutting & gluing by day's end. These are the vents off the custom front bar that I made for my Falcon ute tow car.
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Redliner
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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2017 3:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Side scoops for the Interlude came out of the molds using water to crack the PVA release, a trick I use on shapes likely to hang up like these. This pic shows where they came from, and they'll be turned upside down and back to front for the Honda sculpting. Lesson? NEVER throw out a broken after market bar - & if a mate does... grab it!
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Redliner
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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2017 5:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just initial cut & screw at this point, but it looks like Iím gonna get the Shelby 350GT Mustang appearance here that I want.

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Redliner
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PostPosted: Thu May 11, 2017 3:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I started over-laying the main rear wing for my Honda Interlude dirt car, each layer being a two stage process. Some left over offcuts of the foam blank presented themselves as ideal candidates for sculpting some canards.



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Redliner
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PostPosted: Thu May 11, 2017 5:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took the sheet metal base off the car & drilled lotsa holes to ensure all my bits really stick to it strongly, then I screwed it back on and bogged the chopped bits of fiberglass panels in place. Iíll do a little more flowing of the lines before I take it off the car to feather all the edges.

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