Joined: 18 Jun 2012 Odometer: 58 Location: Farnborough
Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2016 3:59 pm Post subject:
My engine bay is filthy too its okay its not on show 😂. Unfortunately I didn't get out this weekend because it's been ******* it down, and I don't fancy getting wet again like I have all week. Which sucks because we are scheduled for snow Thursday and Friday and I wanted to put my 31s on instead of my road tyres .... Also I needed to fit my boost gauge and Manual boost controller.
Set about getting the sump off last night. Ended up having to remove the front axle (expected), and the steering damper, and then undid the idler arm to get enough clearance to wiggle the sump out.
Unfortunately I managed to sheer the bolt under the oil filter. Pretty irritated as I was being pretty careful to start with as I was trying to avoid exactly that - and it didn't seem to take any force to happen. I think the sump has been off before as there's sealant everywhere - I'm wondering if it was over-tightened before. Going to try with a set of extractors but it's a pretty fine bolt... not convinced it's going to come out. Guessing its a trip to Suzuki to find a replacement bolt even if I do get it out.
Anyway i'll crack on tonight and weld the drain in.
I think the sump has been off before as there's sealant everywhere
G series engines in Sjs and vitaras come out of the factory with just sealant and no sump gasket. That's not so say it hasn't been off before but a lot of people don't seem to be aware of this. __________________________________ www.suzukiclubuk.co.uk
Thanks folks! I thought it might be a fine thread but if that's the case there's a screw fix on the way home
Thanks for the heads up on the gasket. I did some googling after I posted and found agreement with what your saying (no gasket) on fixkick.com. Not that I was about to find a gasket for it I'm suspicious if someones tried to tighten it to stop a leak in the past. I'm just making excuses really - I was being gentle... honest!
Feel a bit guilty about hi-jacking your thread Sammy... I think i'll be back on topic with turbo related stuff soon and hopefully some pics if that's okay.
Joined: 18 Jun 2012 Odometer: 58 Location: Farnborough
Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2016 4:41 pm Post subject:
It confuses me a bit as well when there was no gasket! It's not a problem, hijack away! It's nice that hopefully this will be a thread to answer any questions about turning one of these engine, keep it all in one place you know. Maybe draw some new people into the forum
So while driving home tonight I had a little race against a range rover sport, when I had to quickly stop for some traffic lights. As I was coming to a stop I noticed ALOT of smoke behind me, then there was a loud bang followed by more smoke. Left it to idle for a few second and the smoke cleared and I drove home normally.... Strange, will need to investigate this before the engine/turbo goes bang!
Quick update. Got it running with exhaust all hooked up. Not driven it yet but seems to be running okay. Fitting the kit itself didn't take too long. Messing with the sump took most of the time.
Other issue I had was surging and very uneven idle. I removed the idle air controller to get at the water line. In doing so I damaged the gasket but didn't realise. Eventually found the leak. So my fault more than anything. Gotta just say I messaged the seller quite a few times throughout and they were very responsive + helpful.
Got some more bits to sort out. Put boost gauge in cab, somehow shoe horn the air filter under the bonnet (not snorkeled for now), secure battery, refit front axle, deal with a leak in exhaust joint.
Exhaust wise I've got an MOT hopefully end of week so I've refitted stock cat. I used each end of the original down pipe. I welded top end of the original down pipe as a reducer to the new down pipe, welded that to a piece of flexi, and u bolted that onto bottom half of the original down pipe (still bolted to cat with flexible joint). I don't know how restrictive this setup will be...time will tell. Also got to renew insurance end of this week...looking forward to that one :s
Fitted kit ( got a few things to put in better places yet - but you get the idea )
Shows how close the original down pipe comes...
Turbo to BackOfCat
Course it's leaking on the bend. Had to go a lot closer to the bend than I wanted - think it was optimistic that it would seal right - so i'll probably just weld it on. Won't be too hard to remove whole section off of cat and turbo in the future.
Got my MOT booked for tomorrow so got a deadline now. Got back at it last night with help from our regular "Wednesday Night Club" attendees Good progress made.
Made up a mount for boost gauge and fitted to dash. Plumbed into power too so lights up and looks "bling".
Fitted a K&N cone filter instead of the piper cross enclosed filter I've been using. It's shorter and clamps directly to the MAF without an adapter so that now fits down in the bonnet.
Note to anyone else using this style of enclosed filter (I think it's a piper cross universal enclosed or something). Seal it yourself. Discovered the housing isn't actually sealed while testing for leaks - although any air that does get in through the housing is likely to be filtered on this model due to where the housing comes apart, but it just won't cut it with water if you go paddling deep. (not that I plan to play in much real deep water with this thing - not really a fan anyway)
Remove the entire section of exhaust shown in my pics above as one unit. Previously I fitted as two parts and clamped it - but wanted to test that I could remove it all as one part. Wasn't too bad. Then welded the joint where I previously clamped to stop leak. Was harder to fit back onto back of turbo. Trick is jacking the cat a bit. All fitted and the leak is gone.
Secured the batter with a ratched strap for now. Long term batteries are going elsewhere as they currently block my path to the snorkel (which I'm also planning on re-working).
Started it and everything seems to be running fine. Checked the timing again.
Just need to refit the front axle tonight and chuck on some new wiper blades and should be MOT ready.
Sam - whats the state of yours? Is it still surviving?
Cheers - didn't seem to turn out too badly for what was bit of a bodge. It'll work for now anywho.
Got some more pics...
My sump in "oil leak spotting blue"... happens to match calmini sort of... note I had a bit of a leak around the oil drain. The rest is just sealant and grubby hands from fitting it.
Everything looking a bit tidier under the bonnet...
Got me wiper blades and some bulbs sorted for MOT. Axle went back in pretty happily once I remembered the "trick" to doing it.
Seems to drive without doing anything bad so should be on for the MOT later. I didn't boot it but it feels like it's pulling nicely. I've been driving my patrol long enough now that everything feels fast. My other halfs GV2000 feels rapid to me! I'll try and read what boost it's making on a proper test post-mot. Got a couple of hills in mind that I want to test it on to see what I gear it'll pull up them in.
All in all pretty happy. I'll be even happier if I get through the MOT.
Went through mot with clean sheet. Insurance done.
I've seen about 6psi out of it so far. It's got a leak at the exhaust manifold which I'm currently sorting which can't be helping.
Also making a weird groan when I lift off throttle at low boost say around 2psi. Could be related to the leak.
Once I've sorted the leak I'm going to shorten the metal tube pre air intake as the angle of the bend is flattening one of the 90s.
Is there an accepted min distance recirculation valve should feed to post air filter?
Pretty sure it's pokier. Pulled up my test Hill happily in 4th somewhere around 30-40, which talking with a friend we're pretty sure it was more 3Rd before and drop to 2nd if really get it wrong. Same friend pointed out if I push the throttle down more it might go faster when we were seeing how well it picks up on flat...I was stopping at the point it used to make no difference beyond if you see what I mean...and it did go some more.
Haha brilliant!!! Well I want one of those. Still trying to decide if I should put a comedy bumper sticker on there or not... I've already got the "It's not leaking oil, it's sweating power" sticker. More truth to that now at least.
Sammy, what AFR gauge you using? How much am I looking at spending? What's involved in hooking it in? This is new to me.
I think I've got the exhaust manifold sealed now. Still seeing about 6psi at the gauge though.
Still getting the groan (which I think may actually be a "moo" based on some googling) at low boost gently pressing on throttle - am a bit suspicious of the diverter valve doing something strange although everyone who's sat in the passenger seat tells me they think it's exhaust related.
And rich I've got a innovate lc-1, was about £150 I think, real simple, just drill and weld on the fitting that's supplied into the downpipe. Screw the sensor in, wire up a gauge with, switched live, live and earth. Mount gauge and you're sorted! There's full instructions in the kit. I got a friend of mine to wire it in because... Well honestly electrics make no sense to me 😂 So I don't know where he found the wires unfortunately.
Still pursuing the noise on lift off. Think I'm getting somewhere so bit of a progress report...
Last night I moved my boost gauge to source post throttle as its actually a vacuum/boost gauge. Don't know why I didn't to this in the first place. With that in pretty sure I don't have a leak. Vacuum is strong with this one. A test drive suggest the noise occurring when vacuum of somewhere between 5-10inHg. I spent some time playing around blanking off various vacuum lines temporarily and test driving to see if anything was reacting badly to pressure changes. Trying very hard not to get distracted by the Bosch diverter valve at this point. Didn't seem to get anywhere.
Last thing I did was have a look inside the diverter valve so see the state of the seal. Have to say it looks dodgey to me. You can see a lip of the seal on varying edges never quite seats down right. I'm suspicious of this valve as it should be starting to open/close around the vacuum I'm hearing the noise. Anyways went back inside to google the sorts of pressures and behavior of the valve.
So here's what I think I've found. I think the valve was on the wrong way. From my reading the side port should actually be the one that receives boost and the bottom of the "barrel" goes to pre turbo. Apparently this is because this is not the piston style valve. (at this point a vaguely remember something when fitting an aftermarket valve to my skoda rs where I had to install it the "other way around"). This is contrary to the way the valve arrives in the kit attached to the inlet pipe, and also Sammy, I think you have it on the possible wrong way round too. If I understand correctly the boost pressure actually helps the valve to seal closed, rather than push the diaphragm open. People do run them the other way around, and on some of the Audi's it looks like they even flip them around for some reason to improve behavior. I think it's a fairly reasonable mistake as most folks upgrading are going to be putting a piston style valve on there - so the common way of seeing these things will be in the possibly wrong orientation for this valve.
I flipped it over this morning and it has definitely changed things. The noise is still there but much harder to recreate - and I was getting pretty good at generating it last night. I've also noticed I can hear it opening more clearly to re-circulate boost. I'm still not convinced it's working right. Performance-wise I couldn't say if it's making any difference - but then I didn't hammer it as I was trying to test for the noise.
I wonder if the situation is worsened by the setup running non-intercooled, and with a relatively short length between throttle and turbo.
For what its worth on the initial test runs before I cut the 1" hose on the valve to length I didn't notice the noise. It's possible it just didn't happen or I was paying attention to other things. I haven't quite got my head around why longer hose on the re-circ side would improve the situation.
Looking at the interweb people really seem to slag off these valves and recommend upgrading. As far as I can tell some people are saying it because it ain't bling enough to have under the bonnet or doesn't make a convincing enough sound - others say they aren't reliable. Reading through some of the tests folks have done using air lines testing movement etc. they seem to come up pretty well against after market valves... but a lot of those folks doing those tests do seem to comment on reliability. Who knows... just wish I still had my skoda rs still so I could do a quick swap!
It's also occurred to me that I probably am seeing around 6/7 psi as the needle on my gauge seems to be at rest before zero - and that's a pretty reasonable figure. Googling the golfs 1.8t running this turbo at 150hp they seem to be running around this level of boost.
Joined: 18 Jun 2012 Odometer: 58 Location: Farnborough
Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2016 1:21 pm Post subject:
Sounds like a bloody brilliant ramble and a productive night. I'll have to look into it and change mine around see what difference it makes. You'd think as it came all pretty much assembled it would be assembled correct!
Yah you'd think so. The instructions are bit vague as it just refers to outlet. Willing to go with benefit of the doubt as I thought it was right until I really spent some time googling it. Just sending a message to DWR to see what they think. Currently sourcing another valve to see whether or not the valve is at fault itself.
Okay - I've solved the noise. It was the diverter valve. My replacement Forge valve arrived this morning. Swapped it over before the drive into work - didn't hear a single moo. Instead I know have a more appropriate noise when I lift off the revs at any amount. A not too loud ptssh. It seems my vac/boost gauge is being a lot more consistent now also. To be honest everything feels a lot smoother. Wouldn't say there is more peak power but delivery of that power just seems smoother when progressively giving it more. It now kinda reminds me of my old Octavia RS.
I think the Bosch valve was in some way faulty to be honest. It's not like the boost levels are significant enough to warrant needing a performance valve.
So I'm happy. Here are some pics...
This bit is rubber on the Bosch valve and you can see that the lip on the seal never seems to go down quite right ... (unfortunately not got a pic of the other valve handy - i'll try to get one later)
So kinda pricey. But they're serviceable so pretty much a lifetime purchase....unless you forget you installed it on a car and then sell it (like my rs...doh). You get uprated springs with it but I think most people stick with the green spring even on much higher boost vehicles. Might be able to find it for less elsewhere and there's probably other options. But forge is only half hour up motor way from me so figured it would arrive in post quick.
DWR haven't got back to me yet. Pretty much keeping them posted with all the info I'm writing here. Facebook messenger says they haven't read my message yet.
Just done a run up motor way to other side of Gloucester and back. The truck is just plain better with this setup. I hope it lasts. I've started collecting some bits to do some more things to the truck now I feel like I've resolved the on road power issues
While I was up there I did a bit of offroading. Carting some tools and hay back n forth for my sis. Had a play in low range etc. Obviously it takes off if plant it (or sits still and spins). Had a play in 4H. Only thing to report really is I think the clutch may have slipped a bit when I was trying to do an awkward bit of reversing and opened it up.
Think my tyres have seen some better days. Are you on 31's did you say? You reckon it'd pull 33's pretty happy with this setup on the road?
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