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Rebuilding Defender 90 CSW
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stable
Articulating


Joined: 19 May 2005
Odometer: 828
Location: Northumberland



PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2014 8:46 pm    Post subject: Rebuilding Defender 90 CSW Reply with quote

Dear All,
Corrosion levels at a point where something had to be done.
Going for the full galv chassis and other galv bits where possible/practicable.
This may be disappointing to quite a few of you, but I am going for as close to original as I can get, colour wise etc.





Nearly got the tub off tonight, before I ran out of light. Two bolts through the the wheel arch from the seat belt mounting rounded off. Grinder out tomorrow!

My local Landy specialist is trying to track me down some galvanised body cappings. Anyone know if you can still get them?
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spannerman69
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 01 Oct 2003
Odometer: 2807
Location: st.helens



PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2014 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you want to pm your chassis number i can ask when i get to work , or you can ring them on 0151 486 0066 ask to speak to neil .
graeme

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stable
Articulating


Joined: 19 May 2005
Odometer: 828
Location: Northumberland



PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 12:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers. I've sent a PM
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stable
Articulating


Joined: 19 May 2005
Odometer: 828
Location: Northumberland



PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Progress so far.

Getting the front wings off is becoming a pain.


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stable
Articulating


Joined: 19 May 2005
Odometer: 828
Location: Northumberland



PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are these the only brackets holding the windscreen section on to the bulkhead? I'm hoping I won't need to take off the inner part of the dash that holds the ventilation levers, as I can't see how they come off Sad



do the covers on the other side just lever off?




Progress so far.

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paulmurray
Articulating


Joined: 01 Apr 2005
Odometer: 578
Location: northern ireland



PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 12:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, the three bolts on either side go straight through to the outer piece which is threaded, undo and remove the three bolts on each side and you should be able to lift the screen clear . Hope this helps.
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who says leafers don't articulate
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stable
Articulating


Joined: 19 May 2005
Odometer: 828
Location: Northumberland



PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah, so the three studs are fixed in to the capping on the front. Cheers, Paul.

Anyone have thoughts/advice on repairing the bottom of the bulk head where your feet go. I presume it's spot welded together originally. Can you pop rivet repair panels in?



Both sides of mine have gone, drivers side worst and is also blistering up the side.
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RichardD
Marshall


Joined: 13 Mar 2003
Odometer: 22856
Location: State of Confusion



PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keep the photos coming, its an interesting job.

Remember that you can get bits galvanised if you cannot buy them that way.

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Poking the Grim Reaper with a stick then running away. The devil made me do it but God said it was okay with him.
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stable
Articulating


Joined: 19 May 2005
Odometer: 828
Location: Northumberland



PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 4:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers, Richard. I may be looking to get the bulkhead galvanised. I got the bulkhead off this afternoon and it is much worse than I thought. It's taken the wind out of my sails, to be honest. I was foolishly hoping it would just need some minor repairs to the floor sections. The inside of the drivers side appeared blistered, but it is totally shot. You can see the hole in this pic.



I've googled for replacements and there are a few places who do repaired+galvanised ones for £800 Shocked

So, I may be repairing my own and looking to get it galvanised. I was hoping not to have to take all the gear off it. It's a lot more work that I was hoping not to do.

I've got lots of pictures Very Happy

Here's end of play today.

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stable
Articulating


Joined: 19 May 2005
Odometer: 828
Location: Northumberland



PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 6:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It took a long time to get the engine out today. Fortunately, I had a few helpers. Very worrying when you are doing it for the first time, it looks a hell of a lot bigger when there's no body around it.



I don't yet have a plan to get the axles off the chassis.
I presume it must be a case of taking the weight with a hoist, loosening off or grinding off the bolts, lifting it up and rolling the axle out?



I'm currently using the hoist to stabilise the engine. It could seriously injure someone if it rolled over.
Anyone have any tips or tricks?
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Nightbar
Difflock Royalty


Joined: 30 Sep 2003
Odometer: 20799
Location: In a state of anticipation...


1999 Land Rover Defender

PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 9:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lol - looking at the cars in the background of your last pic - haven't the neighbours complained Cool
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Plant a tree for the Difflock 3
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stable
Articulating


Joined: 19 May 2005
Odometer: 828
Location: Northumberland



PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 11:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, they are good friends. And those cars are older than they look. The guy right next door to me is out regulary to discuss progress, he loves cars too. Other neighbours stop and talk about it, it's creating a lot of interest. A couple of Jehovas Witnesses came around the other day and talked to me on the drive for 15 mins about the rebuild. As they turned to go they said "oh, can we leave you a leaflet". They never mentioned religion, is that the power of Land Rover? Very Happy
They were a lovely couple.
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Nightbar
Difflock Royalty


Joined: 30 Sep 2003
Odometer: 20799
Location: In a state of anticipation...


1999 Land Rover Defender

PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 11:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice one & good on you.
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The ex-Difflock Ambassador to Naples, Sir Nightbar DCJC DFS and 2 bars.

Plant a tree for the Difflock 3
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Toseland
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 25 Oct 2011
Odometer: 3209
Location: cardiff


1999 Suzuki Vitara

PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

stable wrote:





that a galvanised chassis i spy in the background there?

__________________________________
I live by 2 sayings:
1. The beatings will continue until morale improves
2. Pain is just Weakness leaving the body..

The feeling you get when you first smash your shaft out, is one you will never forget.. especially if you do it in front of 10 guys.
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stable
Articulating


Joined: 19 May 2005
Odometer: 828
Location: Northumberland



PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 8:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Certainly is, how sexy is this.....



Was going to leave it on the front lawn, but as the day went on I realised I wouldn't be able to sleep at night so we man handled it in to the garage. Much safer there Very Happy

Rear axle is off, front one off next, get them cleaned up and painted and then the new chassis will be coming out for them to be refitted. When I get to that point I'm hoping it will be a big psychological boost cos I'll feel I'm past half way - though I'm probably not!





Does anyone know where the VIN number is stamped on the chassis? I can't find it.
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Wilbert Robinson
Articulating


Joined: 11 Jul 2008
Odometer: 685




PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 12:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might I offer a couple of suggestions regarding your lovely new galvanized chassis. First fill the chassis legs with hi-expansion foam to prevent water from getting into the inside of the legs, this will guarantee that no water/mud will get inside and slowly start corrosion. Paint all of the exterior of the chassis with etch primer, followed by a couple of coats of good quality primer, followed by two coats of good quality chassis paint. Pipe wiring loom down the outside of the chassis leg. Paint will hide the fact that a galvanized chassis is fitted from thieving b's and more importantly preserve the galvanizing from contact with water and other crap thrown up from the road. Your new chassis will then most probably outlast you Laughing Laughing
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Foreplay does not require a four wheel drive

Get your mind out of the gutter................it's blocking my view
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mmgemini
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 26 Dec 2004
Odometer: 3096
Location: Stockton on Tees



PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 6:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The VIN Number is on the right hand chassis rail just in front of the axle.
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mike FOAK

Quis custodiet ipsos custodes

I can cause trouble in an empty house !!!
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stable
Articulating


Joined: 19 May 2005
Odometer: 828
Location: Northumberland



PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers mmgemini,
I'll go and have a look now.
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stable
Articulating


Joined: 19 May 2005
Odometer: 828
Location: Northumberland



PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Found the VIN number Smile

This is how it finished last night. Radius arms and a few other bits and bobs to come off before the cleaning stage. I'm thinking Hammerite black to paint axles with. Anyone used their rust remover, is it any good?



The chassis is in surprisingly good condition. The rear cross member is only about three years old and so is bob on. Is it worth trying to get some money for it?

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Wilbert Robinson
Articulating


Joined: 11 Jul 2008
Odometer: 685




PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 11:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hammerite is not as good as it once was, I would suggest that Triflow would be a better alternative.
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Foreplay does not require a four wheel drive

Get your mind out of the gutter................it's blocking my view
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stable
Articulating


Joined: 19 May 2005
Odometer: 828
Location: Northumberland



PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting, thanks for that. Just Googled it and watched a promo video, looks good stuff. Reckons it's good for 5yrs.
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paulmurray
Articulating


Joined: 01 Apr 2005
Odometer: 578
Location: northern ireland



PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Triflow gets my vote too, much better than hammerite.
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who says leafers don't articulate
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stable
Articulating


Joined: 19 May 2005
Odometer: 828
Location: Northumberland



PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 6:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think it's an Irish product, Paul. Laughing I'm getting sold on it, Triflow it's probably going to be.

Does anyone think I can get a few quid for my old chassis or should I get the scrap man to take it away?
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spannerman69
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 01 Oct 2003
Odometer: 2807
Location: st.helens



PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cut threw the chassis number if your going to scrap it , you don`t want it being reused do you.
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stable
Articulating


Joined: 19 May 2005
Odometer: 828
Location: Northumberland



PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, now that I have tracked it down I'll grind it off before it goes. I'm probably hoping against hope to get some money for it. Could do with a few quid to go towards an ever increasing new parts list! Shocked
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stable
Articulating


Joined: 19 May 2005
Odometer: 828
Location: Northumberland



PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2014 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thought I'd post a few more pics to bring this up to date a bit.
When I took the the radius arms , springs etc off the axles I noticed the metal ring holding the swivel seals was in bad nick so removed it to look at yhe seals and they are perishing. Amazing there is still loads of grease in there and the swivels are gleaming.

The bolts on the axle flange do not want to come off!
I've bought two new inner wings off ebay.

Mine were corroded beyond repair.
I've used a needle scaler to take the thick rust off the suspension parts and then wire brushes on an electric drill.

I've painted them with a product called Aquasteel, a rust inhibitor. Since the picture they've also had a few coats of red oxide primer.
I'm working on the drive and so dependant on the weather, which can slow progress.
Still lots to do before I can start putting things back together Shocked
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stable
Articulating


Joined: 19 May 2005
Odometer: 828
Location: Northumberland



PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got a bit more work done and so I thought I'd do an update.

Swivel retaining bolts refused to come out (Except 3 of the 14) and so I ground the heads off, then cut a slot in the ends. One of my socket sets has a massive flat blade that fitted perfectly and this got them out.





Got the seals replaced, the axles cleaned and painted black and so I could start to get bits put on the new chassis.





It has taken me a lot longer to get to this stage than I expected!
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(pete)
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 19 Nov 2006
Odometer: 5806
Location: aldershot



PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mate I love a new chassis going back together with that shiny galvanised metal and black paint, it's a combination that no matter the wagon always looks bang on.

As regards to an earlier post I would advise the opposite and say do not fill your chassis legs with expanding foam. It will trap moisture in and hold it against the metal causing it to rot faster as it will never be
Dry. Best thing to do is just wax coat the inside as it's galvanised inside as well as out

regular washing will remove mud and Crap and most importantly keep it clean in winter as the salt is a killer

Love the restoration so far and all the best with the rest

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X-RATED 4x4 systems
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stable
Articulating


Joined: 19 May 2005
Odometer: 828
Location: Northumberland



PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 10:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers, Pete. Like you I didn't fancy the expanding foam, so haven't done that. I haven't painted the chassis either, simply because I want to see it shine! Smile Having painted the radius, trailing arms and steering gear to match the body work, the misses reckons I'll be washing the underneath more than the top! Doubt that, but it will get a fairly regular powerwash. Now I know it inside out, I know where to look for trapped mud. Shocked
I'm going to push the boat out and get a galv bulkhead from Ashtree. Very expensive, but I intend to keep the truck for a very long time. Had it ten years already.
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(pete)
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 19 Nov 2006
Odometer: 5806
Location: aldershot



PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 12:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's great that your investing the time and money into it now before anything major causes big problems, and it's really nice to see one tthat's not been molested to the point of no return.

Your truck will thank you for years to come for your hard work now, please keep the posts up would love to see this progress and finished, if I lived closer I would lend a hand just to watch it be reborn

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