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Terrano II TD Won't Fire, Code 14(0)1 and 14(0)3
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gargravarr
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2013 6:18 pm    Post subject: Terrano II TD Won't Fire, Code 14(0)1 and 14(0)3 Reply with quote

Hi all,

Just joined and could really use some help. My mother and stepfather recently bought an S-reg Terrano II (1998 by my reckoning) 2.7 intercooled turbodiesel which has given no end of problems. After a week of having it, my stepdad switched it off and it has since refused to restart. The engine cranks but won't fire.

I rigged the CONSULT-II connector to get the MIL light to blink out the diagnostic codes, which it's given me as 14 slow blinks, pause, one or three quick blinks. So that's either a code 141/143 or a 1401/1403, I'm not sure. Code 1401 is EGR Temp Sensor error, but 14(0)3 doesn't exist - who programs these damned things!!

My theory is that there's a fuel supply issue. The primer is firm, so I *think* the fuel pump's working, so I'm assuming something in the engine bay. My initial research pointed at the crank position sensor, although the ECU has not given any codes related to it. Something is stopping the fuel reaching the injectors. Unfortunately, we gave it to a garage last year (only just got it back after WEEKS of asking!) and they believed it was an immobiliser problem, and subsequently gutted the dashboard. They removed the transmission control unit and said it was the defective ECU, so I'm not impressed with them or their diagnosis. The dash is still in pieces because, as of now, I have no clue where to start. Any ideas?

Cheers,
Gargravarr

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1998 Terrano II SE 2.7TDi Auto 'B******!'
1992 Hilux Surf 2.4TD Auto 'Black Beast'
2001 Ford Puma Thunder 1.7i VCT 'Wildcat'
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ivorbiggin
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1996 Ford Maverick

PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2013 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The old Nissan fault codes are 2 or 3 digit codes, they only go up to 128, so 140 is an impossible code.
Where did you get "1401 = egr temp sensor error" from?

The pause between a series of flashes indicates a break between fault codes not a zero.
Was the first 14 flashes definately long flashes?
14 short flashes would be code 14 Vehicle speed sensor, but however just to confuse things, code 14 is also an imobiliser fault.

You say that there were 1 or 3 short flashes after the pause.
Was it 1 or was it 3?.
I know they are hard to read, and i suggest you have another go at reading it. The difference in 1 long or short flash makes a lot of difference

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gargravarr
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2013 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ivorbiggin wrote:
The old Nissan fault codes are 2 or 3 digit codes, they only go up to 128, so 140 is an impossible code.
Where did you get "1401 = egr temp sensor error" from?

The pause between a series of flashes indicates a break between fault codes not a zero.
Was the first 14 flashes definately long flashes?
14 short flashes would be code 14 Vehicle speed sensor, but however just to confuse things, code 14 is also an imobiliser fault.

You say that there were 1 or 3 short flashes after the pause.
Was it 1 or was it 3?.
I know they are hard to read, and i suggest you have another go at reading it. The difference in 1 long or short flash makes a lot of difference


Hi Ivor, thanks for the reply.

I got the code 1401 from a page linked on this site, I think: http://www.troublecodes.net/Nissan/95ams96-00.shtml

The ECU gives two separate error codes as listed in the title. Both start with 14 longer flashes, followed by a pause, then either one or three quicker flashes, then the other code, then they loop. I watched the codes several times and videoed one on my phone to make sure.

I got a list of Terrano II error codes and yes, I noticed they only went to 128. If it's a code 14, would that be capable of stopping the engine firing from cold?

Many thanks,
Gargravarr

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1992 Hilux Surf 2.4TD Auto 'Black Beast'
2001 Ford Puma Thunder 1.7i VCT 'Wildcat'
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ivorbiggin
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2013 9:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

gargravarr wrote:
ivorbiggin wrote:
The old Nissan fault codes are 2 or 3 digit codes, they only go up to 128, so 140 is an impossible code.
Where did you get "1401 = egr temp sensor error" from?

The pause between a series of flashes indicates a break between fault codes not a zero.
Was the first 14 flashes definately long flashes?
14 short flashes would be code 14 Vehicle speed sensor, but however just to confuse things, code 14 is also an imobiliser fault.

You say that there were 1 or 3 short flashes after the pause.
Was it 1 or was it 3?.
I know they are hard to read, and i suggest you have another go at reading it. The difference in 1 long or short flash makes a lot of difference


Hi Ivor, thanks for the reply.

I got the code 1401 from a page linked on this site, I think: http://www.troublecodes.net/Nissan/95ams96-00.shtml


Ahhhhh, thats p1401, which is an EOBD code common to all EOBD compliant vehicles. Your Nissan gives out vehicle specific codes, it was built before EOBD was a requirement in europe, or at least you have to have an EOBD scanner to read the EOBD code.

Code 14 = vehicle speed sensor, which wont stop the engine from running, however as i said earlier code 14 is also an imobiliser fault.
Theres a Dongle unit in the centre of the dash under the radio, (on most models but not all).
This unit recognises a key that has been programmed to it and asks the key for a 4 digit code, if it recognises both the key and the code it will allow the ECU to start the engine, it then generates another 4 digit code which it passes on to the key. Next time the key is inserted the dongle will recognise the key and expert to recieve the last 4 digit code it assigned to that key.
If the battery has been disconnected for a good length of time (days) theres a chance the dongle will forget what codes it has assigned to the key, so it might recognise the key but not the code.
Code 14 suggests that the unit has only recieved partial info and wont allow the ecu to work.

You say the dash is still apart, is the dongle unit there? Is it connected? is the immu around the ign barell still present and connected? Whats the immobilser light doing? Have you tried using a spare key (Provided it has a chip in it) Do you have power to the inj pump stop solenoid with engine cranking, have you tested the crank sensor resistance?

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gargravarr
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just dived into it. The 'IMMU' unit is still attached to the ignition and is connected. I don't know about the dongle since I can't get a consistent location for it, but I found a Siemens-made radio receiver under the driver's dash that I assume is part of the security system. It has an antenna connector and two multi-wire connectors.

The dashboard immobiliser light does nothing when the key is turned.

We seem to have a gen2 NATS installed, as the key has a red chip in it. There is also a black central locking remote with red and black buttons. From my unrerstanding, this is integrated into the ECU and very difficult to bypass.

So, assuming the NATS has come out of sync, how does one go about resyncing the controller and the key?

Edit: I also put a multimeter on the crank sensor and got a reading of 1,330 Ohms between the data pins, which is within the valid range, so we're not looking at a crank sensor failure. Gotta be something to do with the immobiliser, much to my chagrin.

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1992 Hilux Surf 2.4TD Auto 'Black Beast'
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ivorbiggin
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 4:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The remote plipper has nothing to do with the immobilser, it simply unlocks and locks the car, and is intergrated with the time controll unit, not the ECU
The Siemens unit you have found is the reciever for the remote plipper.
The remote can be syncronised with the car by turning the ign on an off 6 times within 10 seconds with the key ending up in the on position. The indicators will flash twice to confirm the unit is in programe mode.
Press and hold the unlock button on the remote, then press the lock button 3 times, then release the unlock button.The indicators should then flash twice again to confirm the plip is registered, turn ign off and check the plip locks and unlocks the car

To reprogram the dongle (if it has one) or the Immu you will need a mobile locksmith or a garage with the required software, or take it to Nissan.

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ivorbiggin
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you getting 12v to the stop solenoid?
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gargravarr
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ivorbiggin wrote:
The remote plipper has nothing to do with the immobilser, it simply unlocks and locks the car, and is intergrated with the time controll unit, not the ECU
The Siemens unit you have found is the reciever for the remote plipper.
The remote can be syncronised with the car by turning the ign on an off 6 times within 10 seconds with the key ending up in the on position. The indicators will flash twice to confirm the unit is in programe mode.
Press and hold the unlock button on the remote, then press the lock button 3 times, then release the unlock button.The indicators should then flash twice again to confirm the plip is registered, turn ign off and check the plip locks and unlocks the car

To reprogram the dongle (if it has one) or the Immu you will need a mobile locksmith or a garage with the required software, or take it to Nissan.


********, I was afraid of that. The remote control works fine, but not the key.

I couldn't find the dongle anywhere in the car - at least not with the car in the state it was, and the workshop manual wasn't exactly helpful in telling me where things were! Any ideas where it would be if we have the gen1 system? We're in an isolated part of northern France and getting the truck to a Nissan garage would be a lot of trouble without it running.

Cheers for the reply!

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1992 Hilux Surf 2.4TD Auto 'Black Beast'
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gargravarr
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 5:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ivorbiggin wrote:
Are you getting 12v to the stop solenoid?


Where would I find the 'stop' solenoid?

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ivorbiggin
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This might help, note the faults have EOBD codes, only accessable with a code reader.and the dongle location isnt given.

I have a sneaking suspicion that its the later facelift Terrano's that have the dongle.

http://mhhauto.com/Thread-NISSAN-IMMO-INFO

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ivorbiggin
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

gargravarr wrote:
ivorbiggin wrote:
Are you getting 12v to the stop solenoid?


Where would I find the 'stop' solenoid?


On the injection pump, its a bit awkward to get to.
Im not sure if you should get 12v to it with just the ign on, or whether the engine needs to be cranking (in order to get a signal from the cranksensor)
If you get 12v to it either way, you know the immobiliser is off.

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gargravarr
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 5:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ivorbiggin wrote:
This might help, note the faults have EOBD codes, only accessable with a code reader.and the dongle location isnt given.

I have a sneaking suspicion that its the later facelift Terrano's that have the dongle.

http://mhhauto.com/Thread-NISSAN-IMMO-INFO


Thanks, but that didn't really help much. Basically a rehash of info I've already got for OBD-equipped Terranos.

I should probably clarify a couple of things:
-The immobiliser LED is completely dark in all circumstances. It does not blink or light up when the key is inserted or turned.
-When the ignition is turned to ON, the MIL indicator blinks regularly.
-The engine cranks but there is no indication it is firing at all, no smell of diesel in the exhaust.

I'll try and get a multimeter on the start/stop solenoid, but no promises. However, I've heard that the solenoid can be hot-wired to positive - obviously bypassing the OFF on the ignition, but it would be enough to get the truck running, right?

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ivorbiggin
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 5:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

However, I've heard that the solenoid can be hot-wired to positive - obviously bypassing the OFF on the ignition, but it would be enough to get the truck running, right?

Haha thats the $64,000 question.
Theres a fuel control sleeve and fuel quantity sensor inside the pump, all controled by the ECU, along with the needle lift sensor on injector no 1 and the crank sensor. If the immu stops the ECU from powering up any of those the engine wont run. Or does the immu only stop the ECU from powering up the stop solenoid?

Is the stop solenoid ok? hot-wiring it wont do any good if its failed.
If you do hot wire it, becarefull not to back feed the ECU, make sure the original wire is disconnected and is not liable to earth out.

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gargravarr
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 6:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ivorbiggin wrote:
However, I've heard that the solenoid can be hot-wired to positive - obviously bypassing the OFF on the ignition, but it would be enough to get the truck running, right?

Haha thats the $64,000 question.
Theres a fuel control sleeve and fuel quantity sensor inside the pump, all controled by the ECU, along with the needle lift sensor on injector no 1 and the crank sensor. If the immu stops the ECU from powering up any of those the engine wont run. Or does the immu only stop the ECU from powering up the stop solenoid?

Is the stop solenoid ok? hot-wiring it wont do any good if its failed.
If you do hot wire it, becarefull not to back feed the ECU, make sure the original wire is disconnected and is not liable to earth out.


Hmm, a good point. I'd be willing to bet that, if we've really got the gen2 NATS, going around the ECU would be fraught with problems. If the ECU thinks the immobiliser's still engaged, then it's hardly going to start pumping out vital fuel-injection data.

Reading the workshop manual and the like, I'm getting concerned that the immobiliser LED isn't lighting up at all. It doesn't blink or anything. Could that indicate a failure?

I'm looking around for Nissan dealers cos this is starting to get beyond me.

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1992 Hilux Surf 2.4TD Auto 'Black Beast'
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ivorbiggin
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the imobiliser led isnt working at all, it could be that its just disconnected where the dash has been apart.

If it has no dongle then the immu goes direct to the ECU.
Realy need to find out if theres a dongle fitted
Are you using the same key thats always used? have you tried using a spare.

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gargravarr
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ivorbiggin wrote:
If the imobiliser led isnt working at all, it could be that its just disconnected where the dash has been apart.

If it has no dongle then the immu goes direct to the ECU.
Realy need to find out if theres a dongle fitted
Are you using the same key thats always used? have you tried using a spare.

No clue if there is or isn't a dongle, like I've said there are inconsistent locations and no pictures or descriptions of what it looks like, how big it is, etc.

We only have the one key with the vehicle, no spare or anything.

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ivorbiggin
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Think ive found something.

http://www.docstoc.com/docs/37706355/MVP-Nissan_Manual_-Masterpub

Blue chip keys are for crypto transponders, red chip keys are for non crypto transponders.

Ill wager theres no dongle on yours.

It also gives the immobilser led flash sequence for faults. Would be worth seeing if the led is connected

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ivorbiggin
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check fuse no 16, 20amp, Its the power supply for the immu, and also fuse no 11, 10 amp
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gargravarr
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ivorbiggin wrote:
Check fuse no 16, 20amp, Its the power supply for the immu, and also fuse no 11, 10 amp


All the 10amp fuses are sound. Naturally, I can't find any numbers on any of the diagrams... Haven't checked the 20amps though, will try that in a minute.

I made some progress - the security LED has failed. I put a multimeter on it and discovered continuous 1.2V across the terminals. Combined with the blinking MIL light, the manual says this is a NATS problem. A temporary override is to switch the ignition ON for 15 minutes until the LED goes out. That's about now, so fingers crossed...

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gargravarr
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, that didn't work. I left the ignition switched on for about 20 minutes but the voltage didn't drop below 1.2V, so the LED didn't go out.

Edit: all 20amp fuses are sound, too

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gargravarr
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ivorbiggin wrote:
Think ive found something.

http://www.docstoc.com/docs/37706355/MVP-Nissan_Manual_-Masterpub

Blue chip keys are for crypto transponders, red chip keys are for non crypto transponders.

Ill wager theres no dongle on yours.

It also gives the immobilser led flash sequence for faults. Would be worth seeing if the led is connected

Finally got that to load up. There's a decent amount of information in the book, including:
Terrano II up to 2000: NATS v2
However, it doesn't really help with the fault indicated:
-Security LED continuous on
-MIL Light blinking
It does seem to be that the NATS is either rejecting the key or has encountered a serious system fault and is locking out the vehicle. I'm going to try the override mode again. If I can start it up, we can try and get it to the nearest dealer and see what they can do about it.

I hate car electronics!!

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Xpajun
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

gargravarr wrote:

I made some progress - the security LED has failed. I put a multimeter on it and discovered continuous 1.2V across the terminals.



1.2 volts seems very low to me - more like a leak voltage - if you remove the existing wiring to the LED and apply 12 volts does it light then? If yes then you are definitely looking at an ECU problem?

gargravarr wrote:

I hate car electronics!!


Car electronics and off-roading 4x4 that spend time in muddy situations and wading water aren't really a good mix...


Makes me think I'd buy a Landrover before I'd buy a Maveranno Shocked Shocked Shocked

<quick> that's a series Landy not a new one Rolling Eyes Laughing </quick>
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gargravarr
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Xpajun wrote:
gargravarr wrote:

I made some progress - the security LED has failed. I put a multimeter on it and discovered continuous 1.2V across the terminals.



1.2 volts seems very low to me - more like a leak voltage - if you remove the existing wiring to the LED and apply 12 volts does it light then? If yes then you are definitely looking at an ECU problem?

gargravarr wrote:

I hate car electronics!!


Car electronics and off-roading 4x4 that spend time in muddy situations and wading water aren't really a good mix...


Makes me think I'd buy a Landrover before I'd buy a Maveranno Shocked Shocked Shocked

<quick> that's a series Landy not a new one Rolling Eyes Laughing </quick>

I'm hesitant to throw 12V across a low-voltage component like an LED, but then if it's shot, what does it matter Smile LEDs don't need a lot of power to light up, especially dim ones that just blink to say 'security on.' Interestingly, I just disconnected the LED and put the voltmeter on the connector and the voltage started fluctuating quite a bit, getting up to around 3.5V before steadying around 1.2V again.

I don't know the full history of this Terrano, but as far as I'm aware, it's never gone swimming. Agreed, sticking electronics in off-roaders really is a stupid idea - might be 'easy' to hot-wire a mechanical-injection diesel, but just *try* and get one to break down...

And yes, a Series Landy would probably fall into the 'Unstoppable' category of off-roaders!

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just had a quick read...


LEDs need a minimum voltage of 2v to work

Apparently connecting a LED directly to a 12 battery will destroy it due to the high current draw - you'll need to put a 1kΩ resistor in series with it
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ivorbiggin
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had a friendly AA man with a dead VW in today so i asked him to check on his puter to see if there was a way of overiding the NATS 2
Puter said no

The Siemens unit you located under the dash appears to be the dongle/ immobilser. One on the left is from a Terrano petrol, yours will probably say diesel or gasoil instead of gasoline.


Might be worth contacting these people who can recode the unit, seems you can remove it from the car and send it to them.
You might need a 4 digit security code that comes with the car when new.
If you dont have it you might be able to get it from a Nissan dealer at a cost.
http://www.autotronics.co.uk/cscart/nissan-terr...-key-service.html

Otherway round it, chipped key, immu and dongle from a breakers. You can take the chip out of the key and tape it to the immu so you can use your existing lock and ign key.

Just to make life more interestring, if the ECU is waving its arms about and shouting out that it has detected a major engine fault the immobilser wont allow the car to start untill the fault has been cleared.
This is certainly the case on Terrano's after 2001, not sure about earlier
models.

Are you using the electronic manual? theres some checks for the NATS in the EL section

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ivorbiggin wrote:
Had a friendly AA man with a dead VW in today so i asked him to check on his puter to see if there was a way of overiding the NATS 2
Puter said no

The Siemens unit you located under the dash appears to be the dongle/ immobilser. One on the left is from a Terrano petrol, yours will probably say diesel or gasoil instead of gasoline.


Might be worth contacting these people who can recode the unit, seems you can remove it from the car and send it to them.
You might need a 4 digit security code that comes with the car when new.
If you dont have it you might be able to get it from a Nissan dealer at a cost.
http://www.autotronics.co.uk/cscart/nissan-terr...-key-service.html

Otherway round it, chipped key, immu and dongle from a breakers. You can take the chip out of the key and tape it to the immu so you can use your existing lock and ign key.

Just to make life more interestring, if the ECU is waving its arms about and shouting out that it has detected a major engine fault the immobilser wont allow the car to start untill the fault has been cleared.
This is certainly the case on Terrano's after 2001, not sure about earlier
models.

Are you using the electronic manual? theres some checks for the NATS in the EL section


Wow, lot of info there. Thanks a lot!

The Siemens unit doesn't mention anything about being an immobiliser, just 433MHz Receiver and such. I'll grant it looks similar, but I'm reasonably sure by now we've got a NATS 2 getup without a dongle, so bypassing is a no-go.

Replacing the NATS electronics does sound like the path of least resistance; we're in northern France and the car is UK-registered, so getting assistance is a little tricky. If I could clear the fault code logged in the ECU, what would happen, assuming the code isn't actually '143 ENGINE WILL BLOW UP IF STARTED'?

I've been reading the PDFs of the workshop manual, yes, and I've tried to follow the NATS guides, but it's been tricky without a working security system LED. Near as I can tell, the LED's on solid, which doesn't match anything in the manuals. Also, the MIL light is blinking, not on solid. Why can't we have some freaking consistency?! Smile

The only thing that seems to match up is the NATS Breakdown listed in the owner's manual, but the override procedure won't work. I really am stumped for a way to get this car running - there are such things as anti-theft systems which are too effective, Nissan!!

__________________________________
1998 Terrano II SE 2.7TDi Auto 'B******!'
1992 Hilux Surf 2.4TD Auto 'Black Beast'
2001 Ford Puma Thunder 1.7i VCT 'Wildcat'
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ivorbiggin
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 13 Dec 2009
Odometer: 2485
Location: PORTSMOUTH


1996 Ford Maverick

PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 9:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clearing the fault requires disconnecting the battery for 24 hrs, however if the fault is current, the ecu will just flag it back up. Dont know if this will work on the Maverano but you could always try "cold booting" the ECU.
Disconnect both battery leads from battery and hold them together, or bridge them for 2 mins. turn ign on then reconnect the leads to the battery.
The ECU has capacitors within the circuits which keep its memory alive, by touching the battery leads together (off of the battery) you drain down the capacitors, ECU looses its memory and reboots with basic settings.

433mhz is the same frequency as the remote plip, check the label on the back of the plip.
Also ive checked, if you have a red tag on the key its not a crypto chip, the chip in the key is fixed code.

If this were my car id be investing in a cheap code reader and a dl16 iso to 14 pin adaptor. Yes your Terrano is capable of giving EOBD codes but not by doing the flash method.
A garage with something more sophisticated like a Snap on Modus should be able to read both engine and immobiliser codes.

Alternativly Feet up with a large cognac and a packet of Gauloises Laughing

Electronic manual el 199 to el 201 gives voltage checks for immu and immobiliser/ecu

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gargravarr
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Joined: 09 Feb 2013
Odometer: 30




PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hrm, I've had the battery disconnected for more than 24 hours and the light still blinks, so it must be a fault 'in progress.'
ivorbiggin wrote:

433mhz is the same frequency as the remote plip, check the label on the back of the plip.
Also ive checked, if you have a red tag on the key its not a crypto chip, the chip in the key is fixed code.

Ah, so that's what 'crypto' means in this context. So, if anything, the immobiliser has forgotten the key is valid?

Quote:
Alternativly Feet up with a large cognac and a packet of Gauloises Laughing

Tempting, oh so tempting!

__________________________________
1998 Terrano II SE 2.7TDi Auto 'B******!'
1992 Hilux Surf 2.4TD Auto 'Black Beast'
2001 Ford Puma Thunder 1.7i VCT 'Wildcat'
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ivorbiggin
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 13 Dec 2009
Odometer: 2485
Location: PORTSMOUTH


1996 Ford Maverick

PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Crypto,
Each key chip has to be registered and recognised by the immu/ imobilser, the key chip has its own id, The code in the chip of the key changes everytime its used.
Goes something like this

KEY CHIP. Hello im Ivor
IMMU. Hello chip ivor, your registered with me so thats ok, what was the 4 digit number i gave you when you were last inserted.
KEY. The last number you gave me was 1234
IMMU. Thanks chip ivor that is correct.
Now please forget code 1234, your new code is 4321,and upon your next insertion you will give me the code 4321.

Non crypto.
Key chip dosnt have to registered to the Immu just has to hold the right code

KEY, Hello im random chip my code is 1234.
IMMU, Thanks chip 1234 is the correct code.

Sorry if its teaching granny to suck eggs but its the only way i can think of explaining it

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gargravarr
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Joined: 09 Feb 2013
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 10:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Ivor, I understand cryptographic key exchanges Wink I'm just trying to understand what could have gone wrong along the way? It doesn't sound like there's a lot to go wrong with a non-crypto-based system Confused

Perhaps I am looking at some kind of hardware failure here... The garage originally diagnosed immobiliser problems and claimed the ECU was at fault, which would make sense as it's (most likely) a NATS v2 system. It might explain not recognising the key, the odd flash codes and the lack of security LED. Of course, that starts going down the route of replacing the ECU - gulp!

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1998 Terrano II SE 2.7TDi Auto 'B******!'
1992 Hilux Surf 2.4TD Auto 'Black Beast'
2001 Ford Puma Thunder 1.7i VCT 'Wildcat'
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