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Muddy2 Just got MTs
Joined: 31 Dec 2012 Odometer: 152 Location: Jersey ci
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Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 12:49 am Post subject: Rust
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As I live 300 metres from the sea rust on steel big issue . For the last 25 years I have worked derusting harbour cranes experimenting on different process . Unless you have access to a grit blaster and 1st coat in 20 mins in a workshop that's warm . You have to go to plan b remove as much rust as you can with hand tools ie grinder, sandpaper,old chisels are good. Wipe area down with a clean rag ,And thinners Now we get to the important bit heat area with hair dryer or heat gun ,gas burner you are not removing paint you are removing moisture from the localised area you will see the moisture moving . Then put your 1st coat while the area is warm and leave to harden . And recoat with a 2nd coat of primer and leave to harden and top coat .gen army paint is not very good over here . I have a local auto store mix mine up
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teamidris Mud Obsessed
Joined: 24 Feb 2008 Odometer: 3372 Location: Staffordshire UK
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Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 8:20 am Post subject:
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Sound advise
It seems like iron can grab the oxygen from H2O to make iron oxide?
We do the vacuum bit with our ally furnace, which sucks away the water before we fill with really dry nitrogen. Ally really corodes at 500 degrees centigrade!
Going back to rust, I hear a tiny grain of rust left behind can really speed up the corrosion process. I use genoilite to convert the rust with its phosphiric acid. I think it goes to iron phosphate? Shot blasting is still the best 'prep' I have used to date.
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Muddy2 Just got MTs
Joined: 31 Dec 2012 Odometer: 152 Location: Jersey ci
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Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 8:38 am Post subject: Genolite
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Yes two coats of that is very good if you got it then your primer , ten years ago I had to prime some welds on crane 120 metres in the air just after it had been welded and the paint work only had one coat of red oxide primer due to access when it got cut down due to beening replaced the paint was still good.
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