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Landie110 Gate Opener
Joined: 12 Jan 2008 Odometer: 47
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Posted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 3:14 pm Post subject: Broken/ sheered bolt 110 defender
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Hello folks, wonder if someone can help me with an issue. Today I replaced the rear drive shafts and flanges on my 2003 110 defender. All was going very well until one of the 5 bolts holding the flange sheered off or should I say snapped leaving most of it n the hole ....... oh dear I said!!
The job is now completed all but one bolt broken.... um er oh. I guess the only way to fix this is to replace the rear hub assembly or?????
Any help as always appreciated.....
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David_LLAMA4x4 Just got MTs
Joined: 21 Jul 2007 Odometer: 466 Location: Back in Shropshire
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Posted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 3:21 pm Post subject: Re: Broken/ sheered bolt 110 defender
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Landie110 wrote: | Hello folks, wonder if someone can help me with an issue. Today I replaced the rear drive shafts and flanges on my 2003 110 defender. All was going very well until one of the 5 bolts holding the flange sheered off or should I say snapped leaving most of it n the hole ....... oh dear I said!!
The job is now completed all but one bolt broken.... um er oh. I guess the only way to fix this is to replace the rear hub assembly or?????
Any help as always appreciated..... |
Get a set of 'easy Out' stud extractors.
drill a hole in the end of the bolt and then put the sort or 'left handed corkscrew' into the hole. As this screws in and gets tighter it starts to unscrew the sheared botl.
Any good automotive tool shop should have them - I reckon even the likes of Halfords will probably sell a little set.
Hope that helps a bit
David
http://www.donington4x4show.co.uk
__________________________________ www.llama4x4.co.uk |
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Landie110 Gate Opener
Joined: 12 Jan 2008 Odometer: 47
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Posted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 3:27 pm Post subject:
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Thanks David, that could be well worth a try. I will give it ago.
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terence Guest
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Posted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 6:30 pm Post subject:
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personally i have had nothing but heartache with easy outs.
as a temp solution 4 bolts will hold it.
set aside a morning and strip it down.
dont forget to buy a few extras incase it happens again.
and buy a torque wrench .
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w3526602 Difflock Royalty
Joined: 10 Jun 2002 Odometer: 10758 Location: Glynneath, South Wales
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Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 4:14 am Post subject:
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Hi,
The are likely to be only two reasons for the bolt to shear. Both involve you applying too much torque, so you have to ask yourself "Was the bolt stiff in the hub?" and "Was the bolt head firmly againt the drive flange?"
Stiff bolt? Why was it stiff? How much grubt were you applying at the time? It will take just as much effort to remove the broken bit, but you won't have anything to grip. Snaping a stud extractor in the middle of the bolt will just make matters worse. Heat and release fluid might help.
Bolt too long? The bolt will have bottomed-out in the hub, after which it will have twisted until it broke. Whatever force you applied, you will need equal or greater force to break its grip on bottom of blind hole, after which it will unscrew easily. But again, nothing to grip it by. Unlikely that heat ot release fluid will help.
Easiest solution is to fit a new hub. At the very least, find out the price of a new hub, then decide if you also want to use your old bearings and seal, or buy new. You will then have a cost to get under.
Ask your local tool maker if they have a "disintergrater gun" (shades of Dan Dare) otherwise known as a "spark eroder" ... or do they know who has. I'm not sure if the hub is made of the wrong metal to use an eroder.
Is there anyone here who would like to explain how a spark eroder works?
Personally, I would take the hub down to my local prop-shaft specialist (likely to be cheaper than a tool-maker) get them to drill the broken bolt out. My next port of call would be my local engine reconditioner, but he says he wouldn't get out bed for £20, although he fitted Helicoils to an awkwardly shaped exhaust manifold, and converted a 4 bolt Midget flywheel to fit a 6 bolt Metro A-plus crank, both for £20 a time, albeit several years ago.
If you try to do it yourself, using a Dead & Blacker, you are likely to make a mess (well, I would) although you may well finish up with an oil-tight joint.
Buying a 2nd hand hub is likely to be the most cost effective. Try a search for LAND ROVER HUB in ALL CATERGORIES of Ebay.
602
__________________________________ Don't force it, use a bigger hammer, cos if it doesn't fit, the hammer is not big enough. |
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David_LLAMA4x4 Just got MTs
Joined: 21 Jul 2007 Odometer: 466 Location: Back in Shropshire
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Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 6:45 am Post subject:
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I can't help feeling we are over complicating the job...
Perhaps the difference between a fitter and a mechanic but if we were to buy a new part everytime the simplest of disasters happened cars would simply be too expensive to run... almost what is happening.
Just centre punch the sheared bolt. From memeory the bolt is about 10mm so even if you go as big as 6mm hole in the middle ( bit at a time ) then there is room to go off course and still not touch the threads.
Put the stud extractor in the middle and romove the stud ( that is how the stud ractractor got its name).
then look why it sheared ( as above: overtorqued or in wrong ). assuming no damage has been done clean the thread a bit and then stick the new bolt in.
Done in situ on the car this is not more than an hour or so to complete.
David
__________________________________ www.llama4x4.co.uk |
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Let Luce Mud Obsessed
Joined: 11 Dec 2002 Odometer: 4018 Location: Derbyshire
1977 Land Rover 101
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Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 11:16 am Post subject:
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Don't buy cheep stud extractors though, they tend to snap, and are as hard as a drill bit so a real PITA to remove once snapped.
Failing all that, weld on a washer/nut to whats left and use that to wind it out.
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RichardD Marshall
Joined: 13 Mar 2003 Odometer: 22856 Location: State of Confusion
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Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 12:36 pm Post subject:
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If it has enough sticking out then a stud remover (rather than an 'easy-out) may do the job. Some heat may help.
__________________________________ Poking the Grim Reaper with a stick then running away. The devil made me do it but God said it was okay with him. |
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ebbadger Articulating
Joined: 01 Jan 2003 Odometer: 559 Location: Twickenham , Middlesex
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Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 6:27 pm Post subject:
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did you use instant gasket when refitting, i've seen it get in a bolt hole and hydraulic enough to crack a head before now
Cheers Steve
__________________________________ LandRover...'Ubique' |
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jamie_grieve Articulating
Joined: 19 Aug 2009 Odometer: 876 Location: South Scotland
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Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 1:53 am Post subject:
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If you're lucky you'll find it was just the head has sheared off and the bolt body will be sitting in lovely greased threads. Before doing anything too dramatic I'd whip off the drive flange again and try and turn the bolt out with a centre punch. Hitting the edge of the broken bolt at as much as a right angle as you can to encourage it to turn might have the bolt out in minutes.
If it doesn't work then you're no worse off and centre puching the middle and drilling it out for a stud extractor as said above should get you going.
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RichardD Marshall
Joined: 13 Mar 2003 Odometer: 22856 Location: State of Confusion
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Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 8:18 am Post subject:
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jamie_grieve wrote: | If you're lucky you'll find it was just the head has sheared off and the bolt body will be sitting in lovely greased threads. Before doing anything too dramatic I'd whip off the drive flange again and try and turn the bolt out with a centre punch. Hitting the edge of the broken bolt at as much as a right angle as you can to encourage it to turn might have the bolt out in minutes.
If it doesn't work then you're no worse off and centre puching the middle and drilling it out for a stud extractor as said above should get you going. |
I managed that after breaking a flange bolt on Yogi's rear axle. I used a file to cut a little groove to aid seating the punch and once it started to turn I got mole grips on and rattled it out.
Patience (not that I have much) helps!
__________________________________ Poking the Grim Reaper with a stick then running away. The devil made me do it but God said it was okay with him. |
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Jim Malcolmson Just got MTs
Joined: 09 Jul 2008 Odometer: 245 Location: ballymena hey
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Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 9:27 am Post subject:
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if there is a portion of the bolt sticking out drill a hole the same size in a bit of plate, put the plate over the bolt and weld them together, the heat from the welding will release the stuck bolt and the plate will allow you to screw it out
__________________________________ boom boom |
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