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Broken/ sheered bolt 110 defender

 
 
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Landie110
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Joined: 12 Jan 2008
Odometer: 47




PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 3:14 pm    Post subject: Broken/ sheered bolt 110 defender Reply with quote

Hello folks, wonder if someone can help me with an issue. Today I replaced the rear drive shafts and flanges on my 2003 110 defender. All was going very well until one of the 5 bolts holding the flange sheered off or should I say snapped leaving most of it n the hole ....... oh dear I said!!
The job is now completed all but one bolt broken.... um er oh. I guess the only way to fix this is to replace the rear hub assembly or?????
Any help as always appreciated..... Laughing
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David_LLAMA4x4
Just got MTs


Joined: 21 Jul 2007
Odometer: 466
Location: Back in Shropshire



PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 3:21 pm    Post subject: Re: Broken/ sheered bolt 110 defender Reply with quote

Landie110 wrote:
Hello folks, wonder if someone can help me with an issue. Today I replaced the rear drive shafts and flanges on my 2003 110 defender. All was going very well until one of the 5 bolts holding the flange sheered off or should I say snapped leaving most of it n the hole ....... oh dear I said!!
The job is now completed all but one bolt broken.... um er oh. I guess the only way to fix this is to replace the rear hub assembly or?????
Any help as always appreciated..... Laughing


Get a set of 'easy Out' stud extractors.
drill a hole in the end of the bolt and then put the sort or 'left handed corkscrew' into the hole. As this screws in and gets tighter it starts to unscrew the sheared botl.

Any good automotive tool shop should have them - I reckon even the likes of Halfords will probably sell a little set.

Hope that helps a bit

David
http://www.donington4x4show.co.uk

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Landie110
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Joined: 12 Jan 2008
Odometer: 47




PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 3:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks David, that could be well worth a try. I will give it ago.
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terence
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 6:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

personally i have had nothing but heartache with easy outs.

as a temp solution 4 bolts will hold it.

set aside a morning and strip it down.

dont forget to buy a few extras incase it happens again.

and buy a torque wrench . Laughing
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w3526602
Difflock Royalty


Joined: 10 Jun 2002
Odometer: 10758
Location: Glynneath, South Wales



PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 4:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

The are likely to be only two reasons for the bolt to shear. Both involve you applying too much torque, so you have to ask yourself "Was the bolt stiff in the hub?" and "Was the bolt head firmly againt the drive flange?"

Stiff bolt? Why was it stiff? How much grubt were you applying at the time? It will take just as much effort to remove the broken bit, but you won't have anything to grip. Snaping a stud extractor in the middle of the bolt will just make matters worse. Heat and release fluid might help.

Bolt too long? The bolt will have bottomed-out in the hub, after which it will have twisted until it broke. Whatever force you applied, you will need equal or greater force to break its grip on bottom of blind hole, after which it will unscrew easily. But again, nothing to grip it by. Unlikely that heat ot release fluid will help.

Easiest solution is to fit a new hub. At the very least, find out the price of a new hub, then decide if you also want to use your old bearings and seal, or buy new. You will then have a cost to get under.

Ask your local tool maker if they have a "disintergrater gun" (shades of Dan Dare) otherwise known as a "spark eroder" ... or do they know who has. I'm not sure if the hub is made of the wrong metal to use an eroder.

Is there anyone here who would like to explain how a spark eroder works?

Personally, I would take the hub down to my local prop-shaft specialist (likely to be cheaper than a tool-maker) get them to drill the broken bolt out. My next port of call would be my local engine reconditioner, but he says he wouldn't get out bed for £20, although he fitted Helicoils to an awkwardly shaped exhaust manifold, and converted a 4 bolt Midget flywheel to fit a 6 bolt Metro A-plus crank, both for £20 a time, albeit several years ago.

If you try to do it yourself, using a Dead & Blacker, you are likely to make a mess (well, I would) although you may well finish up with an oil-tight joint.

Buying a 2nd hand hub is likely to be the most cost effective. Try a search for LAND ROVER HUB in ALL CATERGORIES of Ebay.

602

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Don't force it, use a bigger hammer, cos if it doesn't fit, the hammer is not big enough.
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David_LLAMA4x4
Just got MTs


Joined: 21 Jul 2007
Odometer: 466
Location: Back in Shropshire



PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 6:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't help feeling we are over complicating the job...

Perhaps the difference between a fitter and a mechanic but if we were to buy a new part everytime the simplest of disasters happened cars would simply be too expensive to run... almost what is happening.

Just centre punch the sheared bolt. From memeory the bolt is about 10mm so even if you go as big as 6mm hole in the middle ( bit at a time ) then there is room to go off course and still not touch the threads.

Put the stud extractor in the middle and romove the stud ( that is how the stud ractractor got its name).

then look why it sheared ( as above: overtorqued or in wrong ). assuming no damage has been done clean the thread a bit and then stick the new bolt in.

Done in situ on the car this is not more than an hour or so to complete.

David

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www.llama4x4.co.uk
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Let Luce
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 11 Dec 2002
Odometer: 4018
Location: Derbyshire


1977 Land Rover 101

PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't buy cheep stud extractors though, they tend to snap, and are as hard as a drill bit so a real PITA to remove once snapped.

Failing all that, weld on a washer/nut to whats left and use that to wind it out.
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RichardD
Marshall


Joined: 13 Mar 2003
Odometer: 22856
Location: State of Confusion



PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 12:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it has enough sticking out then a stud remover (rather than an 'easy-out) may do the job. Some heat may help.
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Poking the Grim Reaper with a stick then running away. The devil made me do it but God said it was okay with him.
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ebbadger
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Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Odometer: 559
Location: Twickenham , Middlesex



PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 6:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

did you use instant gasket when refitting, i've seen it get in a bolt hole and hydraulic enough to crack a head before now

Cheers Steve

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LandRover...'Ubique'
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jamie_grieve
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Joined: 19 Aug 2009
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Location: South Scotland



PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 1:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're lucky you'll find it was just the head has sheared off and the bolt body will be sitting in lovely greased threads. Before doing anything too dramatic I'd whip off the drive flange again and try and turn the bolt out with a centre punch. Hitting the edge of the broken bolt at as much as a right angle as you can to encourage it to turn might have the bolt out in minutes.
If it doesn't work then you're no worse off and centre puching the middle and drilling it out for a stud extractor as said above should get you going.
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RichardD
Marshall


Joined: 13 Mar 2003
Odometer: 22856
Location: State of Confusion



PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 8:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jamie_grieve wrote:
If you're lucky you'll find it was just the head has sheared off and the bolt body will be sitting in lovely greased threads. Before doing anything too dramatic I'd whip off the drive flange again and try and turn the bolt out with a centre punch. Hitting the edge of the broken bolt at as much as a right angle as you can to encourage it to turn might have the bolt out in minutes.
If it doesn't work then you're no worse off and centre puching the middle and drilling it out for a stud extractor as said above should get you going.


I managed that after breaking a flange bolt on Yogi's rear axle. I used a file to cut a little groove to aid seating the punch and once it started to turn I got mole grips on and rattled it out.

Patience (not that I have much) helps!

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Poking the Grim Reaper with a stick then running away. The devil made me do it but God said it was okay with him.
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Jim Malcolmson
Just got MTs


Joined: 09 Jul 2008
Odometer: 245
Location: ballymena hey



PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

if there is a portion of the bolt sticking out drill a hole the same size in a bit of plate, put the plate over the bolt and weld them together, the heat from the welding will release the stuck bolt and the plate will allow you to screw it out
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