factory toyota diff locks

[jerry h]

ok, its getting to the time to fit the e-locker back into the truck but im
thinking of going over to air operated instead of the std electric set up.
i know its been done by a few people before, but has any one got some
pics & info on how to, and pros & cons of using air, also what parts to use?
any help & thoughts are welcome, thanks.

[parrotveasey81]

it might be worth asking some of these in here via pm

http://forum.difflock.com/viewtopic.php?t=67105...highlight=lockers

[hairyguy4]

also theres the cable option


http://www.chilkatdesigns.com/E-Racer.html

[aniesigh]

thinking of doing the same with mine Jerry so interested to see what you come up with. benefits of air over elec to me is that ive got 2 working elec ones and people seem to want to pay good money for them! plus i reckon it will engage quicker although not too sure how much of an issue that is.
weren't you having problems with breaking stuff with the lockers?

[aniesigh]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rO-2XVS-RCQ

something like that but with an air cylinder, could be quite simple to make although i'm guessing he's used the gear and shaft from his original electric actuator but i wan't to be able to sell mine. might be able to get a gear of the shelf from smewhere with the same pitch/diameter. not sure how sensitive to the elements an air cyclinder would be but i guess once you've built the mechanism you can then box it all in. might have a play about tommorow

[jerry h]

i too will be aiming to sell my actuators of which both work perfectly, so
using the gear is not an option. im thinking of a push pull air actuator on
the end of the shaft via the inspection cover, blanking off the e-actuator
with a cut plate which can also double up as a guard. im thinking mill a
hole and cut a thread (m6) and insert a stud, fix the air actuator in the
same way and use air to push & pull the pin, this should be simple and
work pretty fast too. ??

[aniesigh]

you got this type jerry?


haven't really looked at them for a while so can't remember the layout of them to visualise how to do it

[mudplugga]

I need an electric actuator for my Colorado, so if someone wants a knackered one to use the gears - and I want a good one for my road truck.....maybe we can do a deal ?

[jerry h]

yes thats the type i have, and a hi pin up front from an 80 series.
actuators will be for sale as soon as ive got the air system working.

[aniesigh]

christ you didnt hang around Jerry, wen't out last night so been dying all day so didn't look at mine. how you do yours in the end? any pics?

[jerry h]

ive bought an actuator & a manuel control switch the diff is stripped out
ive just got to wait for the bits to arrive, i already run a small arb
compressor on board for the delta tek freespool drum so we already
have air, just need a bit of time in the machine shopand fingers crossed
we should have an air operated toyota diff lock.

[aniesigh]

ideal be interested to see what you come up with! i'll have onboard air too as will probably end up buying a delta-tek drum too

[paul_humphreys]

[jerry h]

so far its not all that expensive id like to know the value of the old electric actuator, if anyone has a good idea as to what they are worth. i think new ones are £300 plus??
if what im doing works then yes i suppose making up a few kits should not be too much hassle. if anyone else is interested let me know.

[kenhutch]

Not sure if this helps however here's a write up and photos I did 2 years ago (and I not finished yet because of work/home move/child!!!).
If I did it again then I would seriously consider using an air actuated ram although care will be needed to protect the air line from damage - same risk for an ARB from sticks etc. and ensuring the ram was suitable for 'dirty' service.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
How I converted my knackered Toyota Electric Differential Lock to cable operation for just a few pounds.

The rear Toyota Hilux axle I bought for my Zook had an electrically operated diff lock fitted as standard however I didn’t have any of the electric control bits and although I initially considered making a little circuit board (details on web) when I started stripping the locker actuator mechanism it was quite apparent that water entry (and lack of maintenance) had not been kind to the electrical parts which were only suitable for recycling. As I also didn’t have any electric cables, connectors, etc. I was left with the option of either finding another way of making it work or buy an ARB (as fitted to the front axle). As the mechanical parts of the Toyota locker seemed to work I tried fitting a mechanical cable mechanism as this is a much cheaper option than a second ARB.
Although I tried searching the web I only found one article which I thought looked robust enough and had enough detail to follow. FYI, this article can be found here:
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=5003.0

The following text and photos show my solution and how I did it. Hopefully this will be robust enough when it eventually sees action and hopefully it may be of use to others.

View from top – I had to create a big hole in the front housing as there was only a small hole to start with. This small hole was for the worm drive from the motor. The hole was roughly made with a plasma cutter and smoothed off with one of those cone shaped hole cutters which acted more like a rasp on the soft aluminium housing. I took as much material out as I thought I could get away with. [sorry for poor focus]


I removed all the electric bits, springs and cogs and only left the central shaft. I cut down the big cog (connected to the worm drive) and only kept the centre which fits into the front housing. I did this to better locate the shaft and thus prevent longitudinal movement or bending. The centre shaft has a lever arm on to which the springs were previously attached. I welded an M5 bolt to it along with a stiffener. The rose joint (also M5) connects to it with a nyloc nut. Stroke from open to locked is about 28mm through a 90 degree arc.
'free'

'locked'


I used a trailer brake cable (ca 1.5m long) which came with an M8 threaded rod. This was cut off and a short M5 bolt welded in its place. I then welded a ½” UNF nut on top of the old motor housing to fix the outer cable sleeve. This was slightly offset to get a straighter pull.

To assemble the unit, I slotted the cable end through the nut and old motor housing, through the enlarged hole in the front cover and then fit the rod end. I used thread-loc + a lock nut. I then fitted the front cover followed by the old motor cover, each with their O-rings and for extra re-assurance some gasket sealant. To attach the cable securely I have to hold the end of the cable vertically (to stop it rotating) and then screw the outer sleeve into the nut. If the axle is still on the vehicle then you will probably need help doing this.


I also added a grease nipple to the front cover (3 o-clock position on photo). I filled the housing with grease, until it came out the existing vent hole which was then plugged. Hopefully there is enough grease in there to prevent any damage from ingress of water which could come from any of the joints or through the cable sleeve – especially if I venture too deep into water! Although water may get into this housing there is a separate O-ring seal on the shaft as it enters the axle so no water should get into the axle.

All I need to do now is make up a lever to operate the other end of the cable (and finish everything else).

Issues to complete:
• Still need to make and locate an operating lever which has to be robust and have positive lock to ensure diff is fully engaged/disengaged. Threaded end req’d for fine adjustment and possibly spring loaded to prevent accidental release.
• Axle articulation and fixing of cable – any risk of damage? Cable is not that flexible and bend radius quite large so sufficient free space above is needed.

[jerry h]

interesting idea im sure it will work, im thinking more of a flick of the switch route myself, whilst competing i expect to use it many many times a daybut im sure your plan will lock it in & out ok, and at a fraction of the cost.

[jerry h]

ok quick update on this electric to air mod. its all going to plan ive got the
elocker out on the bench, the pin that the fork runs on has been
removed and spark erroded. m8 x1.25 12mm deep hole in the end and
is now going to be put back in along with a solid crush collar etc etc. i
have the actuator & switch already, total cost so far £110.00 !!!! bargain
tha axle is down the powder coaters it will be back wednesday ready for
build up this weekend.

[nivapilot]

Could the actuator or cable be pulled by a modified starter solenoid?

No need for air then. Just an idea.

[paul_humphreys]

Sounds good Jerry .

[jerry h]

sorry its been a while for an update but everything else has got in the
way a little, however the axle is all fitted back in the truck along with the
diff lock. i had to do an event a couple of weeks ago so i fixed it in the
open position for that. but the diff was spot on and got a good thrashing.
ive got all the pipework at the ready and have plumbed up the actuator
on the bench and it does what it says on the tin, just need to fab up the
spacer plate and we should be ready to go, with luck before de cider at the end of the month.

[RL12]

something you guys might find interesting-
although i'm not sure if it will happen or not (i should find out in the coming days/weeks) but i have been talking to Dave Ashcroft from Ashcroft Transmissions about producing an air locker for my LJ70 axles, that will be similar to their landrover ashcroft lockers. have heard nothing but good things about them and should be cheaper than an ARB one to.

dropped in my diff & housing for him to measure and it sounds promising so fingers crossed!

might be an option to the e locker problems?

[jerry h]

good news about the ashcroft locker, dave is one of the best guys in the
business and his customer support is second to none. best keep us all
informed on that please.

i never got time to sort the diff lock out for de cider but we have made a
start today on the spacer plate and should get it done by monday.
pics to follow.

if anyone is interested i now have 2 actuators for sale
1 x 8" hi-pin
1 x 8" rear

both in good working order.

[jerry h]

[paul_humphreys]

Looking good.

Will you be able to do them as a complete kit?
Also will there be wireing for diff lock lights, as in/out warnings?

Paul

[jerry h]

the switch on the top indicates if its locked or open its just a simple switch im just going to wire a small light to it.
i made a mock up in 3 mm plate which worked ok, but ive made the final one from 6mm plate. it could quite easily be made from ally in one piece
but id have to get a machine shop to do it and i guess 1 would cost £50 or so. ive no real plans to make it as a kit for sale but it could be done, if your interested in me making you one let me know, but first of all i want to make sure it works perfectly.

[paul_humphreys]

Let me know when you have fully tested (as I have yet to do mu onboard air)
I would need a front and rear . I have the factory ones now and they work, but it is always good to have another back up.

[jerry h]

IT WORKS !!! well on the ramp anyway, but yep it locks in and out just
perfect. hopefully we will get some testing done soon.

[geo-smc]

Done this a conversion on my 80,worked really well.
http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/108306-d...r-conversion.html

[RL12]

[jerry h]

the toyota market is not in the uk, france & italy its better, in the usa & aus its huge. arb already do the kit for this & if ashcroft did go for it you may only save a £100 or so. tbh i cant see him doing it, the landy boys keep him plenty busy as it is.