FORUM CLASSIFIEDS DIFFLOCK.com Links & Networks
Forum Homepage
Log in
Profile
Search
Private Messages
Forum Members
Register
Classified Ads
Search Ads
Place New Ad
My ads
Place your classified
ads here for FREE
NB: Adverts placed in the general
forum areas will be deleted
Difflock Homepage
Online Shop
Contact Us
FAQ
Calendar
Garage
Facebook
Twitter
Youtube
Advertise With Us - Reach your target market by advertising on the Difflock.com forum.
Click here or call 0845 125 9407


Alfa V6 + R380 + LJ70 into SJ
Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9  Next
 
 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Difflock Forum Index -> 4x4s -> Custom Builds
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
nj111
Just got MTs


Joined: 15 Dec 2010
Odometer: 166
Location: Forest of Dean



PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 4:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rockwatt wrote:
smokeyjoe wrote:
Stunning work...

This has to be the best example of Men in Sheds engineering ever...

Keep it coming.


That's no shed ! That's a fully equipped machine shop Smile
I'd love that vertical borrer, (next perchase when I've moved and got more room)

Very nice machineing mr, puts me to shame with my mediocre mill and lathe!
I hope as much detail goes into the rest of the build.

Strange choice on the gearbox ! I would have been more inclined to choose something from the landcruiser stable.

Except for the CNC router used earlier, I'm afraid the rest is in fact "in the shed". Embarassed Embarassed Been to too many factory closure auctions over the years & just can't resist saving another old machine from export.
Rich, from what I've seen of your work, you'd find a Kearns S type borer very handy, however I wouldn't describe your Gate mill as mediocre! That's a quality heavy duty turret mill.
I take it you are not a fan of anything L rover? We'll have to see how the R380 box performs, doesn't look too bad a unit to me, but if it disappoints I guess the process can be repeated!
There's a long way to go on this but thanks to all for your encouragement!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
jerry h
Just got MTs


Joined: 08 Sep 2011
Odometer: 224




PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2012 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ahem update required Rolling Eyes
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
nj111
Just got MTs


Joined: 15 Dec 2010
Odometer: 166
Location: Forest of Dean



PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 8:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's been a delay on this project due to me trying to cram another machine in the shed, which involved moving everything else around & getting it all working again but here's a brief update:

Here the chassis and LJ70 axles are supported roughly where they will be when installed. The axle in this position would be fully compressed against the bump stops. I was worried about diff / propshaft / sump clearance and sure enough it's an issue.



Here it is again with the sump removed and the oil pump pickup visible:



No simple solution, it needs a mod to the sump. An easy option is to cut away the red hatched area shown below, the oil pump pick up being clear of this.



Here's the internal view of the sump with the baffle plate removed:



But cutting the side out of the sump doesn't allow the engine to sit really low down and with less volume of engine oil this would be far from ideal.
As the vehicle will spend some time at extreme angles it's probably worth attempting a dry sump conversion now rather than having to come back to this later.

From bits in the scrap bin I've knocked up a stand which I can rotate the engine on via a reduction gearbox and get a proper look at the thing upside down.



The Alfa sump is about 160mm deep:



Looks like a dry sump only needs to be around 60mm deep, or even less. This will allow the 170kg engine and some of the weight of transmission to be lowered over 4" and still be well clear of the axle and diff.
Quite often I expect that could be the difference between the truck falling over or not.

This is how the engine would sit if a dry sump conversion were done, again suspension fully bottomed out here:






Dry sump conversions are not uncommon on an Alfa V6 for circuit racing but from what I can see the cost of parts is high.
Typically, up to £600 can be paid for just for a sump, then there's the equally expensive pump, tank, hoses etc.
I need to make whatever I can so my options for dry sump are:

1) Cut down existing sump in height and weld it up again. But the shape is awkward and I can't cut it down as much as I would like. If I did this the engine could only be lowered by 1 - 2" so it's a compromise.

2) Machine a sump out of a solid billet of Aluminium. Cost around £100 for the material and machining time a day or two.
Whilst designing a sump I could also attempt to improve the sealing arrangement at the bottom of the bell housing / crank position sensor here:



3) Make a pattern and cast one. Cost is low as I can melt some scrap, but may not get a good result at the first pour and then have to repeat the process.
Less machining time, but there's a pattern required, which to allow for shrinkage must be 3% larger than the finished item.

Time wise there's not a lot in it between options 2 & 3.

Decided to machine from solid.......


Last edited by nj111 on Tue Aug 12, 2014 8:19 am; edited 3 times in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
nj111
Just got MTs


Joined: 15 Dec 2010
Odometer: 166
Location: Forest of Dean



PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 8:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A survey of existing sump required so more measuring on the mill:
Clocking up true via a straight edge against the dowel holes.



And measuring the positions of holes and dowels:



That’s as far as I have got at the moment, your comments / advice on dry sumps appreciated!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Ragz2009
Winch Assistant


Joined: 01 Jul 2009
Odometer: 63
Location: Ferndown (Dorset)



PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 7:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just Stumbled across this build!!! Hats of to you mate! you have some EPIC Skills! Will be watching this build!! I would love to have that engine in my SJ!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Blue dragon
Just got MTs


Joined: 12 Mar 2009
Odometer: 180
Location: Midlands UK



PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 10:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I love your work, and I'm a fan of Alfa's, please keep going Very Happy

I am in the middle of a project with the same problem and I would like to suggest another option.

I need to run a drive shaft through the side of a sump and I just decided to completely remodel the whole sump to the far side. I'm working in steel but you can easily do the same in ally.



I figure stick wings out where ever there is space to get the oil volume up. Then bring the oil pick up to a small depression somewhere near the rear centre. build a wall around the pick up like your Alfa floor and whack some baffle plates in.

I think oil pressure is essential when charging up hills or on side slopes but I think we can get away with a little loss of suction going steeply down hill (because you are always at idle).

The drain from the block can also be piped dirrectly to the base of the pick up location. I also advocate a little over filling.

The only cost is a bit of fabrication time. If the oil light comes on I will fit an accumulator ... Laughing

__________________________________
Builder of Citroen / Suzuki lightweight rock crawler and super lightweight Bike engined 4x4 buggy
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Redliner
Just got MTs


Joined: 22 Dec 2011
Odometer: 172




PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 1:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know about the rest of the fellas, but when I see your machining skills I feel like a caveman in my garage with a crude stone hammer. Or am I the only one who feels like that? But I think I can help you with the covers you need to make to enclose your flywheel. As a metal work genius you probably hate fibreglass, but have a look at this tutorial of mine where I make exactly the type of pieces you need to fabricate - and it's a lot easier than doing it in metal. The same methods can be used to make these sort of parts out of fibreglass too. Three things I can guarantee. Any part you make yourself in this way will fit, seal, and be tough. A carbon fibre & Kevlar custom sump would be strong and easy to make this way too.... but I know you'll prefer to wizard up something in metal.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sHyTI5zhAX4
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 6:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I vote dry sump. With a bit of jiggery you can run the tank to the original pump intake in the sump. Then the dry-sump-pump cost is only two scavenge sections. The rest is just fab work.
Admittedly I just went 3 sections including the pressure pump, but RV8 pump is rubbish anyway, so probably well worth the extra money in the end.

If you back up hills you'll have pressure. If its stuck on its nose in a bomb hole you'll have pressure. Holding more oil doesn't need a bigger sump. The pressure is better from the pump as it is pumping cool oil, not hot thin stuff from the sump. And favorit for me is that my V engine shouldn't foul the plugs from excessive oil down the front of the engine Cool

There's some good stuff in my build thread, but finding my self on the other side of the project, I'd say a lot of it is exactly what you would expect. Obvious stuff like; big 'no collapsing' feed pipe to pressure pump, narrow deep tank, and a tank drain Very Happy

The bit I havn't figured out is the crank breather. So I joined rocker breather to tank breather with a T and ran a U tube down to the chassis and back up to atmosphere. Thats almost how it was before, but now the oil can't get out when he's upsy-downy.

__________________________________
https://m.youtube.com/channel/UC3l3zoaCabKrgBSULSV1YgA
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
nj111
Just got MTs


Joined: 15 Dec 2010
Odometer: 166
Location: Forest of Dean



PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks everyone for your input. After a delay by having too many other projects on the go I'm back on this and intend to attempt a dry sump conversion. The original chain driven oil pump will need to be removed from the sump to give the clearance over the axle that's needed, therefore I'll most likely be driving a standard dry sump pump complete with 2 integral scavenge pumps mounted on the side of the engine. These pumps are normally driven by a toothed belt from an extended crankshaft front pulley, but that's typically for circuit racing or road use. I have some reservations about any kind of belt drive being used in an environment where it's liable to be submerged in thick mud and debris.
I can't see the existing lightweight chain that drives the Alfa pump surviving very long outside the sump. An O ring chain (enduro/trials bike drive chain) would probably have a reasonable life in mud but the Alfa revs to 7000 rpm and that type of heavy chain would be inclined to get thrown outwards off the pulleys by centrifugal force.
I would have thought a plain V belt could slip badly, although probably not get thrown off the pulleys. Another option might be a direct drive from a small 90 degree gearbox off the front pulley, but again 7000 rpm could be a problem. Any other ideas / comments on this would be appreciated at this stage!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
unimogler
Winch Assistant


Joined: 17 Mar 2008
Odometer: 93




PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 8:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi great build so far, looking at the kit you have at your disposal most things would appear possible, so i like to think, what would the original designer have done to solve a problem. the most common things i can think of with oil tanks are old britsh motor bike engines and these normaly take drive either from the crank or a camshaft . could you run a pump of the end of an over head cam? with the boring machine could you bore through after maybe welding a block of alloy on the out side of the cam cover to mount the pump too. does the engine run a distributor as this could be another area you could look at and fit a crank sensor a coilpacks instead, if your engine has crank sensor would an older head have place for dissy? hope this rambling makes some sense fred
__________________________________
why worry about tomorow,after all today is only the tomorow you were worried about yesterday.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
nj111
Just got MTs


Joined: 15 Dec 2010
Odometer: 166
Location: Forest of Dean



PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 8:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Fred, many thanks for your input, and I totally agree an enclosed drive would be neat and reliable. Unfortunately Quad cam Alfa engines are coil on plug and have no distributor. With regard to driving an oil pump from elsewhere on the engine, one limitation is that the pump is best gravity fed by the oil tank (don't want priming issues with it) & the tank will probably end up in the passenger footwell area, or certainly quite low in the vehicle. The same goes for the scavenge side of the pump, which although more tolerant to some air within the oil, is ideally best situated at low level. It's a tricky problem to solve. Does anyone run a dry sump pump off a toothed belt in this environment and how does that perform? Perhaps it's not an issue and the pulleys will displace mud and grit. I can always kill the engine automatically in the event of oil pressure loss should the belt let go. Nick
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
jerry h
Just got MTs


Joined: 08 Sep 2011
Odometer: 224




PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 5:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

put a hole in the bellhousing and run one of the flywheel, ive seen it done before! keep up the excellent build, we are all watching this one.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
rockwatt
Off-Road Guru


Joined: 25 Jul 2007
Odometer: 1542
Location: North lincs



PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 6:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe a small priming pump inside the sump driven from the crank by chain then you could put the main scavenging pumps anywhere.
years ago a lad with a grass tracker used 3 unvalved pas pumps as scavengers and it worked well so that's maybe worth a look.

__________________________________
Rocklobster gears / refurb cases /rockbuckets/SU manifolds/dual transfer boxes/ sj tcase to jimny cradles and speedo drives/bespoke machining / any thing made to a drawing.
email me for details

Find me on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/RockwattEng
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail eBay Name
rockwatt
Off-Road Guru


Joined: 25 Jul 2007
Odometer: 1542
Location: North lincs



PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

and I'm sure you have the ingenuity to make a sealed enclosure for a toothed drive belt. Or an enclosed chain drive with an oil bath.
__________________________________
Rocklobster gears / refurb cases /rockbuckets/SU manifolds/dual transfer boxes/ sj tcase to jimny cradles and speedo drives/bespoke machining / any thing made to a drawing.
email me for details

Find me on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/RockwattEng
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail eBay Name
nj111
Just got MTs


Joined: 15 Dec 2010
Odometer: 166
Location: Forest of Dean



PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 8:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks all, some possibilities coming to light here. Jerry were you suggesting a direct drive off the starter ring gear? Somehow I need to get the pump running 1:1 at engine speed. Perhaps they fitted a smaller ring gear to the back of the flywheel. I'll see how much room there is. Rockwatt great ideas (as usual!).
The pump/scavenge pump design is another thing I've been dwelling on for a while. Don't really want to take the easy option and fork out around £500 on a combined pressure pump / multiple scavenge pump although this would move the project on quickly. First, I'd prefer to see if I can knock something reliable up / improvise. I hadn't thought of using PAS pumps on the scavenge side, I'm sure these would work well. For the pressure side it would be nice to re-use the original Alfa oil pump (mounted externally). It's gears are helical cut and so will run quietly, also it's perfectly matched to the engine's requirements. Commercial dry sump pumps that I've seen have straight cut gears. I might be able to machine a new housing for the Alfa's helical gears or even adapt the existing one.
Meanwhile I think it's probably safe to get on with machining the sump as it's design will hopefully not be affected by the external pumps.


Last edited by nj111 on Tue Aug 12, 2014 8:21 am; edited 2 times in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
nj111
Just got MTs


Joined: 15 Dec 2010
Odometer: 166
Location: Forest of Dean



PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a pretty complete description of all the operations involved in machining a dry sump from the solid.
Sorry if the detail is boring to some, but it's here for others who like to know how something like this can be made.

At £92 the billet of aluminium (grade 6082 T6 or HE30 in old money) is too expensive to potentially scrap so as a precaution I machined a ply template of the sump footprint.
I used this to check that the holes and dowel pins that I'd measured off the original sump were in the right places.
A couple of the bolt holes were about 6 thou out so this gave me the opportunity to correct them before cutting metal.



Last edited by nj111 on Tue Aug 12, 2014 8:22 am; edited 2 times in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
nj111
Just got MTs


Joined: 15 Dec 2010
Odometer: 166
Location: Forest of Dean



PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The width of the sump is close to the limit of the Y axis (front to back) travel on my turret mill and also if done on a turret mill it would chuck swarf and coolant everywhere.
So whilst I could do this in the shed I decided to take the easier option of using a machine at work.
It's an old (1989) but quality Beaver machining centre not currently used for production and enjoying a state of semi retirement, so this job will give it a good work out.
There's a carousel containing 18 tools, a tool changer and a Fanuc CNC Control.
With any job like this there's no end of different ways of going about producing it and my methods are certainly not the optimum.
One of the issues with machining this part is holding it on the machine table whilst leaving all surfaces and edges clear of clamps.
As the 2" thick aluminium billet is over final thickness the first job is to fly cut the top surface, about 1mm needs to come off.

To keep the top surface clear of obstructions the blank is edge clamped, these "Mitee Bite" clamps are handy as they also apply downward pressure.

This side will be the internal side of the sump. Here you can see there are 19 holes around the edge which will eventually be clearance holes for the 7mm bolts used fasten the sump to the block,
but at the moment these holes are drilled and tapped M6 as they're going to be used later to hold the sump down to machine it's other face.
There are also two 12mm dowel holes to align it to the engine block
and on each of the four corners there's a shallow relieved area for pry bars to separate sump from engine.


The next stage is to mow out all of the internal area of the sump. This is mainly 33mm deep, but there will be four deeper pockets in the corners where the return oil is collected by scavenge pumps.
The cutting forces will now be quite high and it's critical that the billet doesn't move on the machine.
Whilst those edge clamps are good I don't know if I can trust them for heavy cuts, so now the top face has been machined some extra clamps are added at each end.
They're low profile clamps so that the collet nut of the tool holders doesn't foul the clamps during machining.



The area shown cut out here on the right is as deep as the sump can be at the flywheel end. (17mm).
This is because on the opposite face an area will be cut away to accept the crank position sensor.
It's all cut out with what I call a Rippa cutter. These milling cutters are serrated and remove material very quickly but the down side is that
the edge finish is pretty poor so it's necessary to leave some material on the edges then make a final pass with a finishing cutter.


The spindle speeds can be quite high for this material so there's swarf and coolant flying everywhere.
Vertical Machining Centres like this have enclosures which contain it all and provide the guarding required these days.




After the Rippa cutter has finished roughing out it looks like this.

Now a final pass using an end mill which will leave a better finish.


I left an 8mm x 8mm step all the way around the inside of the sump where the vertical walls meet the bottom surface.
A 16mm diameter ball end cutter removes most of this, leaving an 8mm fillet radius. The oil should now drain nicely off the walls into the four pocketed areas.



Last edited by nj111 on Tue Aug 12, 2014 8:23 am; edited 7 times in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
nj111
Just got MTs


Joined: 15 Dec 2010
Odometer: 166
Location: Forest of Dean



PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 10:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some holes are drilled around the oil drain areas, these will be tapped out to M4 and used to hold mesh screens in place to protect the scavenge pumps from picking up debris.


Finally tapping out those 19 M6 holes which are about to be used to fix the sump down the other way up.


This side will now need a bit of de-burring by hand to tidy it up and remove any sharp edges.


Now it's got to be turned over. Once again the second face needs fly cutting to final thickness and the edges need profiling all the way round
so there can be no clamps on the top face or any edges throughout the entire process.
Here's one solution to this, it's a piece of 20mm ally which was previously something else so most of the holes are not relevant, only those circled in red are used here.
There are 19 drilled and counter bored holes for M6 cap screws which align with those previously tapped into the billet.
Also two 12mm reamed dowel holes to locate the part accurately on this fixture.
Finally two of the edges on the fixture were milled true and square to the holes to give accurate edges to set up to and I noted the distance of those two setting edges relative to the dowels,
so in theory I should be able to work out exactly where the part is on it's fixture.


Here the sump is turned over and bolted to the fixture and the fixture clocked up to align with the machine table.
It looks like a solid lump but ofcourse it's hollowed out from the previous operations.
Hopefully the clamps will now be clear all cutter toolpaths, but it's easy to make a mistake, wouldn't be the first time a clamp got machined down.

Now the sump is fly cut down to it's finished thickness of 49mm.


Then roughed out externally with a 19mm diameter Rippa cutter. Not sure how much you can push these cutters before they break
but this one still sounded okay at 13mm deep on each cut. Again, it's faster than a traditional milling cutter, but a serrated edge is left.



The height of all the bolt hole bosses is reduced, look at the nasty edge that Rippa cutter leaves.



Last edited by nj111 on Tue Aug 12, 2014 8:25 am; edited 5 times in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
nj111
Just got MTs


Joined: 15 Dec 2010
Odometer: 166
Location: Forest of Dean



PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 10:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A skim with an end mill leaves a more acceptable finish.



This area is machined out for the crankshaft position sensor and is the reason the sump had to be shallow internally in this area.



Oil drain holes machined, these to be threaded later



There are a few other small relief cuts for various purposes and some drilled, tapped and dowelled holes to align the crankshaft sensor exactly where it was before.



Looking more like a sump now




The job looks so much better with some radii to edges so a 6mm radius is machined around the top using at standard tungsten tipped router bit.
This is the sort of cutter you could most probably buy from a decent builder's merchant.

Stock TCT router cutters are cheap, you don't have to travel far to buy them and they work really well on this grade of material.
Here the spindle is running at it's maximum of 4000 rpm but it's nicely frozen by the camera.



This is a slow process, using a 4mm slot drill some cooling fins are cut, took well over an hour to do this in two depths of cut.
Might have been possible in one depth but didn't want to risk breaking the cutter. Anyhow, it looks good and should have some beneficial cooling effect.



There's plenty of material thickness left in the bottom (12mm) so I'm hoping that if it does get clouted it will survive and I'll not have to make another.
Although it would be way easier to make another as the whole job is now CNC programmed and the programmes are all proven as good.


Last edited by nj111 on Tue Aug 12, 2014 8:27 am; edited 4 times in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
nj111
Just got MTs


Joined: 15 Dec 2010
Odometer: 166
Location: Forest of Dean



PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Needs de-burring but pretty much done now.
Here is the standard Alfa Crank Position Sensor, it's located by two dowels and it's cable sits into a milled slot.


The front end looks like this:



Here are the tools used, 14 of them, close to filling the machine's auto tool changer right up.



Old and new.



At this stage the last thing you want is an unforeseen problem but thankfully it does fit as intended and all the bolts and dowels line up.
There's still a good few hours work needed to remove all the sharp edges and sort out the internal mesh filters & tap the drain port holes.
The pilot hole half way down the one edge will be drilled out and tapped for a sump drain plug so I can monitor how much oil ends up there.



The red line on the bell housing adaptor was the target height, being below that line gives a margin for the oil return hoses and a guard underneath those.
In reality this sump could have been even thinner, maybe 10mm less.
It's actually 110mm thinner than the original so I reckon that'll make all the difference.



So that I can seal the bellhousing I've deliberately shortened the sump so that it doesn't go right up to the bell housing adaptor plate.
I've also flared the ends out to make it wider at this end.
The next job is to make an aluminium plate to fit in here, it will be cut to the shape of the bell housing and will have a hole and seal for the crank sensor to push through.
I'm hoping that should keep the water off of the clutch during wading.



Measuring, designing and making this sump took way longer than I expected and lots of people were advising me to fabricate one, but I still reckon that would have taken just as long and probably not fitted so well.
I can now see why billet machined dry sumps are so expensive, or are they?..........


Last edited by nj111 on Sat Jan 25, 2014 5:11 pm; edited 1 time in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
SASKY
Winch Assistant


Joined: 23 Sep 2009
Odometer: 60




PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 1:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i dont think i have ever drooled over a sump before
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail MSN Messenger
jeepmadmike
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 08 May 2005
Odometer: 4573
Location: between 6000+7000 rpm and Devon



PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 9:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Far to nice for a mud lover!

Anyway
Looks loooooovely should be hung on a wall or fitted on a supercar

__________________________________
Land Rovers are the root of all evil!

Now i have gone and bought a D4!

one day i might buy a 86" series one like my dad had when i was a boy.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
ELVIS.
Off-Road Guru


Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Odometer: 1187
Location: THE PROMISED LAND



PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 12:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shocked Shocked Shocked

NICE BEAVER

speachless chap! WOW Very Happy

__________________________________
A LITTLE LESS CONVERSATION,
A LITTLE MORE TRACTION PLEASE!

FOUNDER OF **** (MEMBER #1)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message MSN Messenger
bigammer
Articulating


Joined: 25 Apr 2003
Odometer: 635




PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 10:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wow, this is a superb build, the machining quality is superb, I used to be a bit handy with this kind of stuff, but not touched a Mill in over 25 yrs, respect mate Very Happy
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Roofus
Just got MTs


Joined: 10 Apr 2006
Odometer: 171
Location: Dublin, Ireland


1992 Toyota Landcruiser

PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 11:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Simply awesome...... Very Happy
__________________________________
Larger than life & twice as ugly!

www.leinster4x4.ie
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
ordy
Just got MTs


Joined: 31 Dec 2008
Odometer: 109
Location: northeast england



PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 9:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your work is just fantastic, are you sure you want to bolt that to the bottom of the engine and get it muddy. Laughing
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
nj111
Just got MTs


Joined: 15 Dec 2010
Odometer: 166
Location: Forest of Dean



PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 10:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

"Your work is just fantastic, are you sure you want to bolt that to the bottom of the engine and get it muddy"

Thanks all for your positive comments,having made it we shall def need to attempt to destroy it.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Stal1878
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 02 Mar 2010
Odometer: 3320
Location: Somerset


1990 Daihatsu Fourtrak

PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is so amazing.
That sump is a work of art.

What are you other projects as if this is anything to go by I would love to see them!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
nj111
Just got MTs


Joined: 15 Dec 2010
Odometer: 166
Location: Forest of Dean



PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stal1878 wrote:
This is so amazing.
That sump is a work of art.

What are you other projects as if this is anything to go by I would love to see them!


Don't want to drift off topic too much from this build thread but messing with Traction engines / vintage tractors & low loader takes up a lot of my spare time.
Having a few machines means there's a constant demand to make parts for everyone else's steamers and tractors, hence the delays in this project!



and here's a you tube link of us abusing the steamer by pulling a 30 ton sledge at Welland, she gets to the end with the weight right up the front of the sledge, something not many of the tractor pullers in the background manage with up to 500 hp

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xudjt4cZrkU
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Stal1878
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 02 Mar 2010
Odometer: 3320
Location: Somerset


1990 Daihatsu Fourtrak

PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I love steam engines and vintage tractors as well.
I recently had to sell my TEF-20 I owned for over 11 years.
Is that your Field Marshall? Probally my "most wanted" tractor (if I could afford on).

I don't know if you have the time, but I am sure alot of us on here would love to see what other bits and pieces you get up to in another thread....
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Difflock Forum Index -> 4x4s -> Custom Builds All times are GMT - 12 Hours
Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9  Next
Page 3 of 9

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You can post calendar events in this forum
Specialist Tools

Service Kits

Adrian Flux 2023

Facebook

Evo Oils

Join our mailing list for upcoming events, special offers, discount coupons and expert advice on the latest 4x4 products!

* indicates required





    
Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group