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Alfa V6 + R380 + LJ70 into SJ
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nj111
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Joined: 15 Dec 2010
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's another update for those patient enough to still follow my slow progress build!

Before moving on I finished off the extended crank nut which drives the oil pump.
It needed locking to the crank as it's RH thread and engine rotation is CW when viewed from the front.
I did consider threadlock, but without a positive locking arrangement there's always an element of doubt, and as we all know threadlock can be a pain to undo on a large diameter fine thread like there is here - unless heat is applied.

The front (vibration damper) pulley is keyed to the crank and the key stops short of the end of the crank so there was a simple solution.
Milled out a thick stainless washer with an integral lug on the back. The lug fits into the keyway in the crank and also into the front pulley's keyway.



The front of this washer is drilled with 24 blind holes.




Some turning and milling to modify the previously made crank nut.





A thick stainless locking washer with four grub screws at the same PCD as the 24 holes in the previous part.



Welded those two together.



24 locking holes in the one part and four in the other, so nut can be easily aligned for locking off, then the grub screws tightened down into the blind holes in the keyed washer.



Last edited by nj111 on Sat Jan 25, 2014 5:31 pm; edited 1 time in total
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nj111
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

To connect the oil pump's braided hoses to the dry sump I needed some compact but full flow 90 degree elbows, which also have to be strong in case they get clouted.

AN12 braided hose is around 17mm bore. Although low profile, stock banjo's look quite restrictive and I can't risk having reduced oil flow back to the tank.
Also banjos can easily be broken.

Another possibility would be banjo blocks, easy enough to knock up but perhaps also restrictive on the flow.
-and there's still a weakness in the design, because like a banjo the hollow bolt which holds the fitting must have multiple holes / slots cut into it to allow fluid flow.

Then there's a variation on banjo blocks with these EO type fittings from Parker. They're strong, allow a decent fluid flow, and can still be locked off at any angle.
"Old school" engineers still call them "German Elbows", they're a neat design and my preferred choice.
They're about half the height of the forged AN12 x 90 degree fittings shown here, so the hoses can be kept tight to the sump.
They consist of a body, a hollow fixing bolt and blanking plug.





But, a while's gone by since I made the sump and I've no idea why I bored the four drain holes 21mm diameter as that's the tapping size for 5/8" BSP.
Elbows from 5/8 BSP to AN12 were never going to be commercially available, so I've created a problem and had to make custom fittings to get over this.

A scan of the thread charts showed that 21mm is also the tapping size for M22 x 1.0mm pitch.
That's a very fine thread, which is probably better than having just a few turns of a coarse BSP thread in the 10mm wall thickness that area of the sump has.
~My mistake cost me £80 for the thread tap though.
Didn't want to end up using any adaptors so roughly copied the design and machined some "German Elbows" from stainless bar.
Three fittings are onto AN12 hose and one onto AN10 hose, cos that's how the pump is configured.
~ and whilst the mill / lathe was set up some spares for future.

Starting with 60mm bar, operations for the elbow bodies were: Bore and thread internally on Lathe, Mill profile, return to lathe to part off to length. Set up on Mill to cut side ports.











Last edited by nj111 on Tue Aug 12, 2014 8:43 am; edited 2 times in total
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nj111
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 10:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Next there's the ports for the AN10 and 12 fittings to screw onto.



Then there's the parts which hold the elbow bodies onto the sump.
Turned, drilled through and threaded M22 x 1mm pitch on the lathe.
They look like this:





These needed a hex shaped into each one to accept a 17mm Allen key.

Done like so:

Milled a 17mm hex electrode from graphite rod. (Copper can also be used).



Here one of the turned parts is ready to be screwed into a fixture on the machine table. (Spark Eroder).



The part is screwed in and the hexagonal graphite electrode is brought down close to the surface, ready to disintegrate by spark erosion.



The process must be done submerged in EDM fluid. You can see the spark around the edges of the hexagon.



It's not fast, takes about 10 - 15 minutes to spark each 17mm hex around 8mm deep.




Allen key is a nice fit. - With Spark Eroding there's always a slight overcut of a few thou,
so the electrode is actually made just undersize to allow for this.



The blanking plugs are in bronze.



They are also spark eroded this time for a 12mm allen key.



Last edited by nj111 on Sat Jan 25, 2014 5:35 pm; edited 1 time in total
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nj111
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 10:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now have four sets of parts. Dowty washers will be used between mating surfaces.



T.IG welded the bodies and threaded ports together. (Not as neatly welded as you do Rockwatt).



To allow the pump to be moved enough to set belt tension the hose runs can't be the shortest route and this means one hose has a tight bend in it.
Was worried about this one collapsing flat as I think there's a fair vacuum from the pump.

Thought it best to have a spring in that one hose, although that will restrict flow slightly, at least it will guarantee the hose can't go flat.
DSG Lathe and some 1.2mm MIG wire winds a suitable spring.





This shot shows how clear this type of fitting is for oil flow.



Forged AN12 x 90 degree fittings used to underside of pump as there's no height restrictions there.



Next job: Blank off oil feed from original pump and run new feed. This may involve altering the aluminium block I made way back to hold the oil filter.
The way this has evolved, filter might go remote now.
After this will drop the motor back in & get it running.


Last edited by nj111 on Sat Jan 25, 2014 5:36 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Stal1878
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow!

Great work once again, love reading your updates Very Happy

Also I never knew thats how allen bolts were made so very interesting!
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nj111
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for commenting. Good to know someone is reading this, so it's worth continuing with the updates!
That Spark Eroder was great for the 8 hexagons needed here but commercially allen headed bolts would not be formed this way. (Accurate maybe but way too slow!). I expect they are forged in a fraction of a second.
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parrotveasey81
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 6:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nj111 wrote:
Thank you for commenting. Good to know someone is reading this, so it's worth continuing with the updates!
That Spark Eroder was great for the 8 hexagons needed here but commercially allen headed bolts would not be formed this way. (Accurate maybe but way too slow!). I expect they are forged in a fraction of a second.



yes please keep the updates coming Cool

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ordy
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I look forward to your updates so keep them coming, brilliant work as always and makes a good read. Smile
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Stal1878
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I only come on this site now to read your updates and speak to Parrot.

It really is amazing to me that you can make anything you can think off!
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spannerman69
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 9:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thats quality workmanship , please do keep the updates coming .
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Gavlad
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 8:20 am    Post subject: Update update update... Reply with quote

nj111 wrote:
Thank you for commenting. Good to know someone is reading this, so it's worth continuing with the updates!


Oh yes, there's folk out here reading & watching in awe - please keep this going & post any other machining projects as well!!! Your work is most excellent & I too look forward to your updates Cool

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nj111
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, well since there's a bit of interest and it will be a few weeks until another update on this build I'll go off topic to explain a bit about spark eroders - for those not familiar.
Spark Eroders (this type I used here are called "Plunge EDM") have been in industry since the 70's and are mainly used for precision die and toolmaking work.
The hardness of the metal being spark eroded doesn't matter too much, if the part conducts electricity it will be disintegrated.
For the rest of us an EDM is handy for getting ourselves out of trouble. i.e. extracting broken studs / taps / drills etc.
With a sheared off bolt or stud a hex can be sparked into the stud and mostly it will wind out with an allen key.
With a broken tap or drill you can spark the centre away and the cutting flutes will fall out. I've even used some 15mm copper plumbing pipe to spark the centre out of a large broken thread tap.
There are no cutting forces as the electrode never comes into contact with the part, there's always a small gap.
Here I used a Charmilles machine (Circa 1990). It must have been be expensive new, (I guess £20K plus)
but it's the sort of thing you can buy these days at a factory closure sale for £500, maybe less. That's the way I prefer to buy machines.



And there are plenty of knobs for your "helpful" mates to alter
- just to make life interesting when you come to use the thing again!



If you really fancy having an EDM but can't accommodate one or maybe don't have a 3 phase power supply there's still a way you can have one at home...

You can make a small portable 5 amp, single phase unit which you can set up anywhere, like directly on an engine block, or on a mill.
About 10 years ago I made one. Yes, it's slower than the commercial machine but achieves the same result and is not hard to build.
It can spark the centre right out of an M16 tap and I still use it because it can be offered up to the part rather than trying to fit the part into the fixed tank size of a machine like this Charmilles.
If you fancy making your own spark eroder "The EDM how to book" by Ben Fleming, will guide you through the project. (That's what I used).
These days you can also buy the main circuit board quite cheaply from the author.
Then just source the electrical components from Maplin / RS/ Farnell, solder in and away you go! You'll probably only use it a couple of times a year but those will be occasions when you are in deep trouble!
I'll post pictures if anyone wants to know what this looks like.


Last edited by nj111 on Tue Aug 12, 2014 8:52 am; edited 2 times in total
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Xpajun
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 6:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Back in the 70s my boss made a board up to his own design and used it with a pillar drill - it worked after a fashion - after I left the factory I used to go back in to do maintenance one of the jobs I had to do in the 90s was to get a spark eroder working for them and show them how to use it... I used it about a year or 2 later fr myself - the only time it got used, I think before the factory was closed down Rolling Eyes


I'd love to have it now - going to be down the list though mill, shear, press brake and hole punch first after I get the much needed unit.

Factory closure sales is what I need - I'm guessing you get a lot in your area?

Just found bid spotter - any others you can point me to?
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cynic-al
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 11:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know a tool maker selling a hurco if your looking at one. He has two but he's bought a cnc so one has to go! It's well maintained and in good condition but he's not prepared to let it go at auction price. We thought about buying that and a bridgeport turret mill he was selling for doing quick on site repairs but the mill had gone before we got there so we didn't bother.

Did you work in tool rooms? I work for a plastics company and do a bit of tool design. Most of the tool makers still have this type of machine knocking about as the cnc machines seem to work on a rotary pattern rather than a straight plunge which can get a little complicated to work out so these machines are just easier for some jobs.

I've seen the mini ones for stud removal for sale but I can't remember where!

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nj111
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 24, 2014 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Typically you need to get on the email list for these, some work all over the country, others tend to be perhaps more to a few counties.

http://www.es-group.com/online-auctions?view=auction

http://www.cottandco.com/

http://www.1stmachineryauctions.com/

https://www.apexauctions.co.uk/auction/home.htm

http://www.ppauctions.com/sales.php

I've also had some good buys from Hilco, mainly in the North or North East, but you do have to wade through all the international sales to find the UK ones. https://www.hilcoind.com/auctions

There are many others of course, and some of the machinery dealers have now started to do factory closure auctions like these:

http://www.newengland.co.uk/machinery-auctions.php

I'm sure there are many others. One thing I am unsure about is if any auctioneer will run up your bid, you wouldn't know if they did. Oh and it's not like bidding on ebay, in that if you bid within 10 minutes of a lot ending the end time is then extended by another 10 minutes, and again and again... Some people don't like this!


Last edited by nj111 on Sat Jan 25, 2014 5:41 pm; edited 1 time in total
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cynic-al
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 24, 2014 12:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hate the extended bidding too! I was once bidding on a deburring machine that was a fair way away, if I won it I was going to buy some other items too but they weren't worth the trip on their own. The bidding on the deburrer ended up being extended by 2 hours which meant I had to sit at the computer for 2 hours and the other lots ended up finishing before the deburrer Confused
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nj111
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And also they separate the tooling from the machines and often sell the tooling before the machine. The best sales were the old ones where we went and stuck our hand up to bid.
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Xpajun
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nj111 wrote:
Typically you need to get on the email list for these, some work all over the country, others tend to be perhaps more to a few counties.



Thank you - now have those bookmarked - some good machines there, right in the area I'm moving to - except I haven't yet got the building to move them into Rolling Eyes Typical Laughing


cynic-al wrote:
I know a tool maker selling a hurco if your looking at one. He has two but he's bought a cnc so one has to go! It's well maintained and in good condition but he's not prepared to let it go at auction price. We thought about buying that and a bridgeport turret mill he was selling for doing quick on site repairs but the mill had gone before we got there so we didn't bother.

Did you work in tool rooms? I work for a plastics company and do a bit of tool design. Most of the tool makers still have this type of machine knocking about as the cnc machines seem to work on a rotary pattern rather than a straight plunge which can get a little complicated to work out so these machines are just easier for some jobs.

I've seen the mini ones for stud removal for sale but I can't remember where!


I don't think I'm going to be into Hurco (at least at the moment) and certainly not into CNC - maybe a lathe one day Laughing Laughing

I was in a "tool making factory" (just pre tool rooms Laughing ) for 16 years - most of the machinery was either pre or just post WW2 - newest machine was a Elliot vertical mill with a vee track system that you used slip bars in conjunction with a DTI - obviously the fore runner of DRO. Laughing Laughing

The machines and standard of work in this thread has me drooling every time I come in it - love it Laughing
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nj111
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 5:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't know what happened here but since the "Difflock" Web maintenance yesterday just about every one of my posts since this build began a couple of years back was corrupted to read absolute rubbish.

Didn't seem to effect anyone else's input though?
I've edited it so it's readable again.
Please do not do this again Difflock people!


Last edited by nj111 on Tue Aug 12, 2014 3:16 pm; edited 2 times in total
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Xpajun
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nj111 wrote:
Don't know what happened here but since the "Difflock" Web maintenance yesterday just about every one of my posts since this build began a couple of years back was corrupted to read absolute rubbish. (Yes, worse than my normal ramblings).
All symbols including ' " £ ! / etc had changed to become multiple combinations of random letters and symbols, so cheers for that you Web people!
Didn't seem to effect anyone else's input though?
I've edited it so it's readable again, but it has got me wondering if I should have been posting all of this elsewhere.
Please do not do this again Difflock people!



I'd suggest probably a database problem (could tell you what it is, but it might appear as garbage to you Laughing ) - though why it only affected your post I don't know - I thought it might be because you were copying and pasting

Please don't post elsewhere without telling your fans where elsewhere is Wink
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TJ_in_Dubai
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 4:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Please keep posting. This is my favorite build thread by some way!

Awesome work!

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 10:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Still watching and still very impressed Smile work faster pmsl
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 5:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

also very impressed with your posts, thank you for the details on the spark eroders, I've now got the book you mentioned and i'm looking forward to experimenting.
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nj111
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jon.g1 wrote:
also very impressed with your posts, thank you for the details on the spark eroders, I've now got the book you mentioned and i'm looking forward to experimenting.


Cheers all for the feedback. Yes slow isn't it Rockwatt, ok I will get out of rocklobster box now!
Good that someone else in the UK is building an EDM.
PM me if you need some RS part numbers, might save you some time. It's important to select the right transformer or it won't work too well,and RS do a nice liitle DC motor with reduction gearbox for the servo head. There's also a Yahoo group for building these.
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Stal1878
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

no doubt a silly question, but where does the metal go from whatever you are spark eroding?
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nj111
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 8:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stal1878 wrote:
no doubt a silly question, but where does the metal go from whatever you are spark eroding?

No, that's a good question.
It's disintegrated into very fine particles, and mixes with the EDM fluid.
What came off here looked like clouds of black soot mixed with the EDM fluid that the part is immersed in. The problem is those microscopic particles conduct electricity so they need removing from between the electrode and the workpiece, otherwise the process will slow right up and basically stop because the machine keeps a constant gap between the electrode and work.
To do this the work piece must be flushed continuously, but gently, by jets of EDM fluid. Often it helps to flush through the centre of a hollow electrode, especially for deep work. There's an elaborate filtration system on the machine to remove this debris from the EDM fluid,but eventually the fluid does go black and needs changing. At the moment it's still nice and clean so I can see what's going on. Also there is a fire risk so the correct fluid should be used, rather than say kerosene. There needs to be a couple of inches of fluid above the work piece to reduce that risk.
A few strong magnets placed here and there also catch some of the eroded material if it's a ferrous material.
On the home made machine I used a suds pump and a couple of diesel fuel filters to catch the muck, that works ok as they do filter to a very fine size. The filters on the commercial machine are massive by comparison though- maybe 20 or 30 times the size of a fuel filter.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 24, 2014 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another update, this time in consecutive months, things must be improving.

There was one thing left to sort - the pressurised oil feed from the pump to the crank main bearings, from where it's distributed around the engine.

With the sump off, this port was the oil pressure feed from the original oil pump.



Not easy to get a feed directly to this, through the wall of the sump, so I've removed it.
No need to blank it off as it runs only a few inches to where the oil filter fits on the side of the block.




Whilst the sump was off, I added some screens from perforated steel to prevent debris getting to the scavenge rotors.
The area of the perforations is around 15 times greater than the bore of each suction port, so no restriction here.
Retaining screws are M4 brass and threadlocked in place.



A quick way of accurately shortening 32 bolts, drill and tap a piece of plate, screw them through and disc them off.
They'll all be the same length and your fingers won't need to go near a grinding wheel also they will all screw in easily with further attention to their ends.



If you've followed this you might remember I made a manifold to relocate the oil filter and reveal an engine mounting on the side of the block.
That was way back about 2 years ago before a dry sump conversion.
This was it with the filter fitted to it.



Anyhow, that manifold has a port in one edge, it's for the low oil pressure warning lamp sensor, that's where the sensor was originally mounted on the engine.
When I started the dry sump I just assumed this port would be used as a supply for the pressurised oil from the external oil pump to the filter. - actually didn't think it through at all!

Here's a diagram of the oil distribution flow, I guess applicable to most engines. The pressurised oil from the pump flows around the outside of the filter and back through it's centre, then on to the crank mains etc.
Naturally the oil pressure sensor is downstream of the filter, otherwise the filter could be blocked and still show a healthy feed pressure.
So can't use that tapping as a feed port, as no oil would pass thorough the filter. Doh!



There's not enough space in the edge of that manifold to introduce another port for an oil supply.
So that part (the 2nd one of those I made, LOL) is now surplus to requirements being only suitable for a conventional wet sump set up.
I'll put it down to R&D with the first one I messed up. Making three of these, to get one right, is not helping getting this thing running.

This left a choice of either moving the filter to a remote location or leaving it where it was and making another manifold with the extra port.
Either way the oil supply had to end up going into the side of the block and I've had to do some more machining.

By moving the filter I could have fitted a much bigger filter elsewhere, some place easier to get at and also introduced extra oil volume within the system. - Both desirable.

But there are a few reasons why I didn't.
Firstly, still assuming and hoping an SJ body will fit over this lot, there isn't going to be a whole load of space available around the motor
and the existing location for the filter is very space efficient, although maybe slightly awkward for a filter change.
Secondly, with a remote filter, additional pressurised oil feed hose runs would be needed, they might end up quite long and those can get snagged, damaged , eventually fail, or just generally be in the way.
Thirdly, and I reckon most importantly, I want to minimise the volume of oil between the oil pump and the crank.
That's in case some oil drains back into the sump when she's been stood for a while.
That way, hopefully it won't take much cranking before some oil gets through and that's also why at the moment the oil pump is driven close to engine speed (only 15% reduction).
The thought being it will pass more oil at cranking speed. As I precaution I'll also inhibit the engine from firing until there's some feed pressure.

There was no 40mm ally plate left here, apart from this scrap gearbox off a woodworking machine - luckily 43mm thick. The required shape just fitted in the corner so it was time to do some recycling.



Last edited by nj111 on Tue Aug 12, 2014 3:21 pm; edited 2 times in total
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Location: Forest of Dean



PostPosted: Mon Feb 24, 2014 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After removing all those needle roller bearings the blank was bolted directly to the machine table, it's already been reduced to 40mm thick and here I've milled and drilled max 39mm deep, just clear of the machine table.





So after milling there's only 1mm thickness holding it together, easily separated with a bandsaw, then drill and ream the holes right through.
I find this method works well for making 1 off parts, especially with shapes awkward to hold like this.



That's one side finished.



But it needed turning over to machine the reverse face.
To do that I used the fixture I'd made for the previous version of this. It's already tapped and dowelled to accept the part.



With this version the machining detail to the 2nd face is really simple, it only needs the central hole from the filter and one area relieved to clear the edge of the sump.



I also decided to junk Alfa's gasket that fits onto the side of the block and machine a couple of 2mm wide grooves and seal it using O rings, I reckon these will seal better.





Last edited by nj111 on Tue Aug 12, 2014 3:22 pm; edited 1 time in total
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nj111
Just got MTs


Joined: 15 Dec 2010
Odometer: 166
Location: Forest of Dean



PostPosted: Mon Feb 24, 2014 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally, a couple of set ups on the Kearns borer to drill the ports & tap three edge holes. If I could only have three machines this would be one, along with lathe and mill.
Got to be accurate here, it's a case of measuring several times before drilling.







Shown here with the engine still inverted, the top hole was only needed for internal drilling so is now blanked off,
the next port down is the new oil feed to the outside of the filter and lower port is the port downstream of the filter for the oil pressure warning lamp.



Here with alternator back on. As per the earlier version, the filter is still shifted about 20mm to the right, relative to the hole in the engine block, so it's just clear of the 120 amp alternator.



Last edited by nj111 on Tue Aug 12, 2014 3:22 pm; edited 1 time in total
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nj111
Just got MTs


Joined: 15 Dec 2010
Odometer: 166
Location: Forest of Dean



PostPosted: Mon Feb 24, 2014 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Decided after all this effort that it's worth one more evening's work to protect this part by anodising.

Since this can be done very effectively at home and I think some people reading this might want to have a go I'll explain what's involved, but sorry, that can't be a short explanation.
Do some internet research first because it's a potentially dangerous process involving a bath of pretty strong sulphuric acid,
plus some equally aggressive caustic soda i.e. Sodium Hydroxide (oven cleaner / drain cleaner) to etch the part before anodising.
Then there's the Hydrogen that's given off during the anodising process and that's explosive. Blowing the roof off the workshop would not be a great achievement.
Frost Auto Restoration will sell you an anodising kit for about £100, not sure exactly what's in that, but imo you don't need it as almost everything is available locally and the power supply can be a battery charger.

Here's a tank of Sulphuric acid, and some lead flashing which will sit in that tank. The lead will be connected to the negative of the battery charger / DC power supply.
The part which has to be suspended in the tank (not touching the lead) will be connected to the positive of the power supply.
The sulphuric acid strength needs to be about 15 to 20% concentration, and that roughly equates to battery acid and about an equal quantity of dilution with de ionised water,
to do this add acid to water not water to acid. Remember AAA = always add acid.



Apart from saving cash there's another massive advantage in doing this yourself and that's quality.
This is because you can leave the parts to anodise for a long time and have an extremely hard protective film about 1 thou thick
rather than the pathetic 1/5 thou that you often get on many commercially anodised "decorative" finishes.
You might have noticed how easily the edges wear through on many anodised parts, my guess is they don't leave them in the anodising bath too long.
I've no way of measuring the thickness of the anodised layer but I will say there are loads of commercially anodised fittings I've used here
and it only takes the spanner jaw to be dragged across any one of them to scratch right through to the bare ally.
By comparison it's really hard to mark the surface of parts I've anodised myself.

The anodised finish hides no sins, it directly reflects the preparation and any imperfection will show through.
If you want a brushed finish then prepare the part (before anodising) with fine sandpaper
and you will see the abrasive marks in the anodised layer, otherwise you could have a polished finish etc.
Brushed finish suits me as it's quicker to prepare the part, flap wheel around the edges, 600 grit wet and dry on the flat surfaces.
If you have a go at this yourself you'll soon appreciate how much effort Red Winches put into finishing their product.

Here's the prepared part.



After degreasing in hot soapy water and not touching by hand again, there's an etch required with a hot caustic soda / water mix about 60 to 70 deg C.
In it goes and the aluminium reacts quite violently.
It's left for about 5 to 10 minutes.



Doesn't look so nice after the etch, might even come out black but that's fine.



The part is rinsed off in water then suspended in the Sulphuric Acid bath, the DC power turned on and it immediately comes back bright.



Only aluminium or titanium wire can be used to suspend the part in the acid bath.
No stainless, brass, copper as these will ruin the acid. I use aluminium TIG wire but this time made a threaded 6mm ally rod.
Titanium is not affected by the process so can be used again and again, aluminium wire gets anodised and will have to be junked or chemically stripped (in a strong concentration caustic soda bath) before using again.


The battery charger / power supply should show some current going through, depending on what voltage it's set at.
It needs about 1/10 amp for every square inch of surface area to be anodised, so this is where a power supply / battery charger with a few different voltage settings is an advantage.
This part is about 60 square inches surface area so that's 6 amps needed. Just set the voltage to get roughly that current, usually about 12 volts does the job.
I've never found it that critical, just a rough guide and everyone has a different opinion on this figure.



To achieve a full thickness the process takes about an hour connected to the DC power supply for the anodised layer to "grow" both onto and into the surface of the part.
About half the layer grows into the part and half onto. The longer you leave it the thicker the anodised layer becomes, but only up to about 1 thou maximum.
At this point the current drops off slightly and you'll know it's done, there's no advantage in leaving it in there any longer.
By this time a turned part could be about 0.001" larger on diameter.


Last edited by nj111 on Tue Aug 12, 2014 3:26 pm; edited 3 times in total
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