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Pressure washer or Waxoyl for winter protection?

 
 
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TullyK
Just got MTs


Joined: 09 Aug 2011
Odometer: 189
Location: Cornwall


1996 Daihatsu Sportrak

PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 8:30 pm    Post subject: Pressure washer or Waxoyl for winter protection? Reply with quote

I drive a 1996 Daihatsu Sportrak and need some advice to stop it rusting to bits this winter.

When I was looking for Sportraks to buy I saw more than my fair share of rust buckets, so I know that it is a car prone to death by rust. Consequently I ended up buying one from London, despite living in west Cornwall. The car is in a very good relative condition, although there are two small rust points that need attention.

I want to invest in some method of protecting the vehicle this winter, as it's mid November, that means doing so very soon. My question is simple, and I hope the answer will be too. Pressure washer, Waxoyl, or both?

I use the car about once a month for pay and play days so would like the pressure washer to clean the mud, but again it's corrosion that is my main concern. To develope on my original question, I would be interested to know a few other things.

Does a pressure washer remove Waxoyl?
How much money should I be spending on a washer (one that wont break)?
If not Waxoyl'd, is it worth applying a fresh coat of sealant to the wheel arches?


Thanks for your help, I really appreaciate your knowledge and experience.
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Ducky
Just got MTs


Joined: 14 Oct 2011
Odometer: 302




PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 8:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Main reason something rusts that's been off road, is that the mud is left sitting inside the arches and the sills, this stays wet for aaages and promotes corrosion in those places. With a jetwash you can flush these areas out and reduce the chances of corrosion taking a hold.

A jetwash won't remove the underbody sealant you can get which dries, some sealants stay sticky and these could be washed off if you used a PW at point blank range on full power I guess.

When my Sportrak rusts away I'll just get another. Laughing

Smile

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Sporty II - 1997 Daihatsu Sportrak Limited
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TullyK
Just got MTs


Joined: 09 Aug 2011
Odometer: 189
Location: Cornwall


1996 Daihatsu Sportrak

PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 10:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for your advice. I like your attitude, but the effort it took for me to find a good condition sportrak, I'm not sure how much longer there will be sportraks for sale that haven't rusted away all ready!

Anyone have any suggestions for a good but reasonabley priced pressure washer?

Thanks
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Ducky
Just got MTs


Joined: 14 Oct 2011
Odometer: 302




PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 8:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well mine will with rust away or get wrecked on a P&P day I reckon! Laughing

If you're only using it a couple of times a month than a Karcher PW of some form will do the job, these can be had for about £50/60 if you shop around. Smile

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Sporty II - 1997 Daihatsu Sportrak Limited
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TullyK
Just got MTs


Joined: 09 Aug 2011
Odometer: 189
Location: Cornwall


1996 Daihatsu Sportrak

PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 5:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers, I'll check them out Smile
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TullyK
Just got MTs


Joined: 09 Aug 2011
Odometer: 189
Location: Cornwall


1996 Daihatsu Sportrak

PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After finding that out of 12 reviews I found for Karcher pressure washers, the highest was 2/5, and they all said that the unit broke, I think I'll have a look elsewhere!
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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 7:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm still backing oil sprayed at any spot welded seam from the inside, as waxoil isn't epic at soaking into rust Confused Then waxoil on the exposed bits of my van and old landy.

But my offroader just gets the 'average joe' pressure washer treatment. Mud seems much less corrosive than salt.

I made my inner wings from inner tubes, so the mud can't get in to hide up there. Its a cheap trick that throws mud back off as well. Very Happy
Because it gets sunk often, I also attempted to block up all the chassis holes and run some oil in. But I have no idea if your truck is open or box chassis? So maybe that doesn't help Confused

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Ducky
Just got MTs


Joined: 14 Oct 2011
Odometer: 302




PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TullyK wrote:
After finding that out of 12 reviews I found for Karcher pressure washers, the highest was 2/5, and they all said that the unit broke, I think I'll have a look elsewhere!


I've had my Karcher for over 3 years, use it quite often with no problems, sometimes the 'user' is the problem. Wink

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Sporty II - 1997 Daihatsu Sportrak Limited
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DiyDave
Winch Assistant


Joined: 25 May 2011
Odometer: 75
Location: East yorks



PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 9:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

its pointless to waxoil over rust, you must convert it first, then apply sealant, i'm using dinitrol over a rust convertor.

1, clean off all dry crap with a wirebrush.
2, i then spray on rust convertor on all superficial surface rust. wait for that to cure, goes black/purple.
3, apply waxoil, dinitrol or shultz etc.
if you don't convert the rust, then 6 months it'll be coming through again.
i have done my terrano like this, been two years now, now rust.

tip, if you have a compressor; buy a shultz gun, applies the sealant far better than waxoil applicators.
you can even get a probe pipe which you can blast sealant inside the chassis.
i seal inside bottom off all the door etc, 9 year old bus, no rust at all.

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I didn't touch it......honest
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DiyDave
Winch Assistant


Joined: 25 May 2011
Odometer: 75
Location: East yorks



PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 9:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sorry about all the lower case, shift key not working at all.
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I didn't touch it......honest
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Ducky
Just got MTs


Joined: 14 Oct 2011
Odometer: 302




PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 9:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DiyDave wrote:

tip, if you have a compressor; buy a shultz gun, applies the sealant far better than waxoil applicators.


Ditto, I used one of these to recoat inside my arches when I repaired some rust patches (to make the car watertight again). Smile

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Sporty II - 1997 Daihatsu Sportrak Limited
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TullyK
Just got MTs


Joined: 09 Aug 2011
Odometer: 189
Location: Cornwall


1996 Daihatsu Sportrak

PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 10:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all your help.

teamidris wrote:
I have no idea if your truck is open or box chassis? Confused

Think it may be box but not 100% will have to check tomorrow. I know it has some 1p coin size holes at certain points.

DiyDave wrote:
tip, if you have a compressor; buy a shultz gun

I'll be borrowing a compressor if I go ahead with the Waxoyl, so I'll ask what guns my friend has. Thanks for the tip

Ducky wrote:
sometimes the 'user' is the problem Wink

Too true!


Just thought I would make it clear that my car hasn't got a massive rust problem at the moment, so it's prevention methods I'm interested in more than curing mehthods.

Thank you all once again, please keep the ideas coming!
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teampcoffroad
Gate Opener


Joined: 10 Aug 2010
Odometer: 32
Location: Market Drayton, Shropshire, UK


2005 Land Rover Defender

PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've heard that RustBuster's stuff is quite good, they do kits inc. rust converter, a sprayer and wax in one. I plan to get one of these kits to do my 1959 Ford Prefect fairly soon, seem good value. Maybe I'll do my Defender if theres some left lol! They do aerosol kits too if you cba with the leccy or compressed air applicators.

http://www.rust.co.uk/dinitrol-products.cfm

BTW I have no connection to the company, just read good reviews and spoke to them at the NEC Classic Show.

I'd definately get a pressure washer. Mines a Karcher Commercial model, and not had any problems yet, but shop around to get the best for the money. Spending time on cleaning the vehicle helps loads on rust prevention. Also lightens it too so it goes faster Razz

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Pete

Land Rover - Best 4x4xFar!
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Yellow Disco
Just got MTs


Joined: 06 Jan 2011
Odometer: 438
Location: Shrposhire and Somerset



PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 7:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

this is a useful thread for rust prevention, ive been thinking about tackling the generous helping of rust on the Disco.
at home we have a karcher washer, don't use it much but we've had it for maybe 8 years or more without a problem.
I spent the last year with a commercial petrol washer which was great for everything and now at uni have access to a seam one, whenever i go home i use the Karcher and get annoyed with how long it takes to get any mud off in comparison. I would however recommend getting one, very reliable in my case, is more than capable of doing the job and shouldn't be at risk of taking off any sealant.

all in all, you get what you pay for!

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Suzuki Jimny Mode - For the road
Landrover Discovery V8 - for the mud!
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teampcoffroad
Gate Opener


Joined: 10 Aug 2010
Odometer: 32
Location: Market Drayton, Shropshire, UK


2005 Land Rover Defender

PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yellow Disco wrote:
now at uni have access to a seam one!


That thing in the engineering block is a beast Wink Takes half the time to clean the 90 off than the standard one at my house...

...still anything beats using a hose pipe or blocking up the local petrol station's drains! Laughing

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Pete

Land Rover - Best 4x4xFar!
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TullyK
Just got MTs


Joined: 09 Aug 2011
Odometer: 189
Location: Cornwall


1996 Daihatsu Sportrak

PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 11:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There seems to be quite a lot of talk about rust converters; I've got a bottle of Kurust, is that worth using on some rusty patches, and does it need to have a sealant on top of it? eg. in an awkward place to get the right colour paint can it be left as 'treated rust' or will that do no good?

Cheers all
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fez_uk
Gate Opener


Joined: 13 Sep 2010
Odometer: 48
Location: Mid-Wales


1998 Ford Maverick

PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 11:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

can anyone recommend a good rust converter as this is one the jobs I need to do asap on my truck.
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GVstu
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 05 Mar 2008
Odometer: 2314
Location: Northumberland



PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 8:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had a Karcher for about ten years, I can't even remeber what model it is but it was industrial strength when I got it and it also does sand blasting - can't fault the unit at all other than I had to cable tie the end of the gun nozzel or the water just goes "tthhhhp" out the end... Wink


What I like to do (and one of my fav pastimes!) is get under the truck and attempt to find every single nook that bears mud and rub it all out, grind down any surface rust on the chassis etc then use a waxoil spraycan / tin combo where I use the spraycan for all the difficult to reach bits and a radiator roller brush from the tin and do all the large areas, then just keep on topping it up.

Once I've done all that I just keep the pressure washer handy.

As for rust busting I use one of those garden weed killer spray guns with the long nozzel on to spray a mix of oil and diesel into the chassis through the cross member holes (etc) and try and give the inside of that a good coating down, never tried one of the off-the-shelf rust busting solutions so can't comment on those.

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He asked me if I'd seen a road with so much dust and sand; And I said, "Listen! I've traveled every road in this here land!"
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scut44
Guest








PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 8:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

PAJEROstu, Sorry not being nasty honest,
but have to ask, have you being doing all this only since the last pictures of the rusty underside of your MOT failure vehicle?

Because if that was your way of doing Rust Treatment from before those last pictures, they dont work very well. Wink

george
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GVstu
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 05 Mar 2008
Odometer: 2314
Location: Northumberland



PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sic44 wrote:
PAJEROstu, Sorry not being nasty honest,
but have to ask, have you being doing all this only since the last pictures of the rusty underside of your MOT failure vehicle?

Because if that was your way of doing Rust Treatment from before those last pictures, they dont work very well. Wink

george



LOL guilty as charged there fella, that was before I'd done it all, it's a new beast now... (well a beast with a slightly better condition chassis!)

I replaced all the brake lines, disks, pads, handbrake, chopped out the rear license plate light bracket and replaced it, ground down the chassis with a flapper wheel, welded up some spots that were rusting around the side steps and sleeved my crappy rear offside lower shock mount so that's all beefed up.

What a pig it was to get all done but worth the effort in the end.

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He asked me if I'd seen a road with so much dust and sand; And I said, "Listen! I've traveled every road in this here land!"
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Broken110
Winch Assistant


Joined: 17 Oct 2011
Odometer: 77



2007 Land Rover 110

PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 10:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just had our 110 (57 reg) Waxoyled but still pressure washing it too! Waxoyl doesn't make clods of mud fall off!

Just avoid steam cleaning.
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Difflock Royalty


Joined: 19 Jun 2002
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Location: Northern Ireland's Gold Coast


2009 Land Rover 110 CSW

PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 10:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Holy post revival Batman
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Nightbar
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1999 Land Rover Defender

PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I see no post - maybe the admin fairies got there in the end.
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