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Td5 Defender 110 rear wheel bearing

 
 
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excossack
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Joined: 06 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 8:28 pm    Post subject: Td5 Defender 110 rear wheel bearing Reply with quote

Ive got a llttle bit of play in my rear wheel bearing.
Are these adjustable?
The car is a 1999 model with no ABS or can someone point me to a part number?

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paul_c
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Joined: 17 May 2009
Odometer: 1378




PostPosted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah they're adjustable but you'll need another lock washer (only pennies though) each time you adjust it. If its gotten to the point of being wobbly, might be worth removing the hub, cleaning thoroughly then repacking the bearing with new grease, to give a new lease of life. Its also a good opportunity to look for wear etc. Apart from the 52mm box spanner or socket, there's no special tools needed.
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Winnet
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Joined: 03 Dec 2003
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1985 Land Rover

PostPosted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And get a proper box spanner and don't use a chisel to do the nut.

G

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excossack
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 9:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ive got a 52mm box spanner Smile

Is it a speacial grease i need and do I need a torque wrench?

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bertie_bas205
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1985 Land Rover 90nad

PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2011 7:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're going to the hassle of taking it off and re-greasing, just replace it.

The bearings are only £7-8 each, just get decent ones, timken or the likes...




Bertie.
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excossack
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2011 8:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats very true Bertie. Do these bearing just pull off or do i need a special tool to remove the bearing?
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bertie_bas205
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1985 Land Rover 90nad

PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2011 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I personally use a bearing drive tool but a decent parallel punch will do the same job...

The bearings just chap out, take a bit of care to make sure the new shell of the bearing goes in straight....

Its worth looking at the stub where the seal sits, this can get grooved and kill a new seal, letting water in or grease out resulting in another knackered wheel bearing....



Bertie.
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nutterbloke
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Joined: 03 Feb 2004
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Location: Wallasey Merseyside UK



PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2011 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No Special Tools are required to remove the bearing, a punch and hammer will be sufficient to remove the old one from the hub.
A Race and Seal driver kit is invaluable if you own a land rover (even more so if you off road) and can be picked up from about £25. These make refitting easier and reduce the risk of damage to the new seal, however it can be done without, by taking care to keep everything straight and not to nick the seal. If doing without keep the old outer race to drive the new one home so you don't damage the new race, it also gives you something the same size as the seal to avoid damage to the seal.
Be careful not to over tighten the bearing on refit and as Bertie says a good make of bearing such as Timken will prevent you from having to re-do the job in a couple of months.
Also take note of the fitment of the current seal as it does matter which side faces out on refitting.

Take your time and make sure its right. Its a simple job but it does make the difference between driving on 4 or 3 wheels Laughing

And Just a note, These bearings are replaced as an inner and outer pair, if I recall correctly the nut on TD5 bearings must be replaced as there is no lock washer it is a locking nut.

Hope this is helpful,
Col
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excossack
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2011 11:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nutter bloke in Wallasey? Just down the road from me

I thought I spotted a bit of water last night, so will double check at the weekend. I like the idea of the correct tool for the job, I shall have a look for race and bearing driver.

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nutterbloke
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Joined: 03 Feb 2004
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Location: Wallasey Merseyside UK



PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2011 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

excossack wrote:
Nutter bloke in Wallasey? Just down the road from me

I thought I spotted a bit of water last night, so will double check at the weekend. I like the idea of the correct tool for the job, I shall have a look for race and bearing driver.


Yup Wallasey Wirral, "Waves" although I am currently sat in the office in Liverpool. Laughing
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excossack
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2011 12:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

*wave* from office in Birkenhead.
I shall sit down and have a look at the weekend and see whats what. Car is booked in for Monday anyways. eeek!

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excossack
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2011 6:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bearing all changed.
I changed the inner and outer bearing as it came in the kit along with a new spacer , rubber seal and gasket.
It took me a couple of hours, but got there in the end with some assistance from a mate who's mechanic.

The old bearing was a Timken and then new bearing is also a Timken

cheers chaps.

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jamie_grieve
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Joined: 19 Aug 2009
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 6:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's good. If you find the bearing becomes loose in the next week or so then this is normal. Take out the spacer, throw it away as far as you can and replace the new style lock nut (which only exists to destroy stubs) with the older style two nuts and tab washer. The spacer was only introduced for manufacturing purposes is my understanding. The lock nut can only be used once as has already been said.
This is how taper roller bearings were designed to be used in the first place. We had problems with these spacers in our fleet in Africa and got rid of them all because the hubs wobbling would push the brake pads out and give folks a fright sometimes.

To answer the post then on a 1999 Td5 no they are not adjustable (not including changing the spacer). They are adjustable when the above procedure is carried out.
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excossack
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, I will see how the bearing goes and check for play in the bearing next week.
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