you must be getting annoyed with me already but....

rob-o

a few more questions! (there is no such thing as a stupid question..... or is there!?)

after passing the MOT with flying colours ive been surprising Bland Rovers with the nivas off road ability. got to say, im surprised myself!

i do have a few jobs that need doing though

1. im getting leaks from both front and rear diff drive flanges. theyre getting bad enough to spray the underside of the body with oil now as the props rotate. looking at the exploded diagrams on www.ladaniva.co.uk (awesome) the oil seals look easy enough to do. anything i need to look out for? will removing the drive gear flange securing nut affect pinion bearing preload? and is the drive flange itself very tight on the shaft?

2. movement in the main engine fan/water pump shaft. (noisy!) i dont have the kit to be pressing bearings and the like.... is it a big job to do at home with minimal tools? (there are no leaks from the pump mind, and it runs cool so i think the pump itself is ok)

3. leak from clutch master cylider - where the push rod from the pedal enters the cylinder itself, (visible from the footwell) big job to do? ive got a second hand master cylinder - might be easier to change the whole thing? its not leaking much and the clutch feels fine but id rather it wasnt leaking on my floormats!

anyway, thanks for reading,

all input/answers/telling to ****** off welcome!

rob

gadgetboy · Posted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 8:19 pm Post subject:

1. Never done them so don't know.

2. Caused by the fan belt being too tight. A new waterpump isn't dear and in the long term is the best solution. Ring Neil at Lada UK. http://www.lada.co.uk

3. A new master cylinder is again very cheap (one of the many good things about Ladas). As long as the other master cylinder is ok go for it. Easy change. Change, bleed, done. Get a pressure bleeder (Gunson EeziBleed) and it's a doddle.

Ta for the compliment about the site.

bobbyd · Posted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 2:59 am Post subject:

1, I chew through these seals front and rear quite often, they are easy to replace , just torque the nut up to the same torque it was when you took it off ( discover you own way to find the torque)

Try to hold the yoke to undo the nut as oppossed to letting the diff take the load

Guest · Posted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 6:20 pm Post subject:

1. About 45lb/ft will do. Although I usually just hang on to the sills, put my foot on the socket bar, and push!
Be aware the seals are handed for rotation, so make sure you fit the correct ones.
Regards,

UK_Andy · Just got MTs Joined: 20 Dec 2009 Odometer: 301

When you coming out to play Rob??

rob-o · Posted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 7:59 pm Post subject:

Well all the bits have been ordered from neil this evening. £15 for the whole clutch master cylinder? Can't complain!

Glad you've given me an accurate torque setting hoodoo, I like that sort of 'lean on it' or 'snug it down' or 'just nip it up' measurements! Are the seals easy to pull out?

And andy, asap! When are you next out?

Cheers everyone!

Guest · Posted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 12:07 pm Post subject:

Old seals come out with a bit of levering. May have to knock in one side to get the leverage, then re-flatten the large washer type thing underneath where you've bent it, but nothing difficult! Check the size of the new seal against the old first, to make sure you hammer in the correct place!
Torque figure is an approximation, by the way. Not accurate (there isn't one!), but it'll do the job.
Regards,