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Spacer/converters to 8 or 10 stud

 
 
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Dreadnought
Winch Assistant


Joined: 30 Oct 2009
Odometer: 56
Location: Swindon/Pstragowa



PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 7:18 am    Post subject: Spacer/converters to 8 or 10 stud Reply with quote

Does anyone know of a source for these items? I am finding that my choice of tyre is limited here. If I could fit different wheels I could get fast cheap mud tyres, for less that 2/3rds the price of the usual high speed tractor tread tyres. I,ve done the math and a one off purchase of spacer/converters would save me a lot of money in the long run. I,ve looked on A.V site none there. Where else can I try? (U1300L 6 stud standard military wheels at present. - trouble is all the high speed tyres I can find (Russian) foul the valve position on my tyres - I have toyed with the idea of re-siting the valves and using extenders through a hole cut in the wheel centre, but I would have to engineer them round the discs then!!!)
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I wanted a Landrover I got one, I wanted a Pinzgauer I got one, I wanted a Unimog I got one.
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normalbloke
Articulating


Joined: 29 Aug 2007
Odometer: 633




PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 7:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What size wheels do you want to fit to widen your choice of tyres?Is is the diameter or the width that is causing the issue?
Jason Couch in the US makes spacers for Mogs but not sure if he makes them as adapters (he may make a special). The standard spacers are $250 apiece. so by the time they get to you a set may well be the best part of £1k.That may not fit in well with your previous reactions to parts prices on BW. Good luck.
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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 8:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was asking Dennis 'Lindenengineering' about wheels the other week. He has a contact who makes dish centre wheels in America. Dennis sent a picture of a set on his truck Cool That would get you exacty what you want in a proper rim Very Happy

Which is the nice thing about the US, as in the UK I can only get plate centres. Although, on a unimog registered as a tractor, flat centres might be okay? If so give david@wheelsuk.co.uk a call. It could be cheaper than spacers.

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normalbloke
Articulating


Joined: 29 Aug 2007
Odometer: 633




PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

"It could be cheaper than spacers."

I'd be intrigued to see that outcome.
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Dreadnought
Winch Assistant


Joined: 30 Oct 2009
Odometer: 56
Location: Swindon/Pstragowa



PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 11:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Firstly gentlemen thanks for yr quick replies. I don,t think I explained myself very well, (I could do it better if I had an example of the Russian Tyre with me and a unimog 6 stud rim to show you the problem. I know I sometimes sound like a cheapskate, but I,m intending to keep this Unimog for many, many years. I am willing to shell out once to make things cheaper in the future. These Russian tyres are absolute beauties (I know they are prob. not legal for UK but OK for here) they are rated for 50MPH and tough!! I never saw thicker rubber or cleats (half again as thick as Michelin Power CL) - but still flexible enough to deal with variable pressure on the move as fitted to most Russki Military trucks. They also stand some 4 inches higher than equivalent 12.50s and will fit under my arches, filling them well but not so well they look like they will scrub. The problem is that this thick rubber edge that seals on the rim would foul the valve or even cover part of it! So I need to be able to fit wheels on which the valve is further away from the edge of the rim (On my 6 studs there,s no where to go, unless I want to re-locate my valves to the inside of the rim! The £ equivalent price of the Russian beasts = £280 each with inner tubes...what would I pay for speed rated big name tractor tread tyres in 14.00 x 20 size? is it going to be a worthwhile saving to change over to 8/10 stud wheels just to get these Russian tyres and the ability to keep on buying cheap speed rated tyres with good tread?
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I wanted a Landrover I got one, I wanted a Pinzgauer I got one, I wanted a Unimog I got one.
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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The wheel cost is probably optomistic, but I hate spacers/adapters. Q; Are those inner bolts tight, you can't see them Confused
And it depends on the spacers origin? i.e. Get a mate to make them for beer money, or is it -pay someone to stop making 100 of this and a thousand of that to run off four Confused
I got a special build agri wheel to take a 205x16" for £90+VAT delivered Very Happy
Its not a high speed wheel, (more of a get you home) but I'm happier with that than a landy wheel and adapter.

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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 12:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If your 'cheap skating' will the rim cut off and turn on the centre?
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dxmedia
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 10 Dec 2008
Odometer: 2185




PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why not just move the valve inboard to clear the sidewall? You've mentioned it a few timesgoing from the other side, but why not just a little in? - total cost about 10p worth of weld and a bit of time. I'm sure it wouldn't effect the tube that much?
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Mr Tyre
Mr Tyre


Joined: 17 Jun 2002
Odometer: 4957
Location: Darlington Co Durham



PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dxmedia wrote:
Why not just move the valve inboard to clear the sidewall? You've mentioned it a few timesgoing from the other side, but why not just a little in? - total cost about 10p worth of weld and a bit of time. I'm sure it wouldn't effect the tube that much?


I agree.The only problem you might have is whereabouts on the tube the valve sits, you are saying the valve could get trapped/damaged by tyres bead.You can get tubes with valves in different positions, as in more of a central position on the tube, all that requires is the wheel drilling out as suggested by dxmedia.
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normalbloke
Articulating


Joined: 29 Aug 2007
Odometer: 633




PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have nowhere to relocate the valve holes on your current rims( 11x20 standard offset I assume) then perhaps look at the wider offset 11x20s or drum rims.There is more room to relocate your valve stem to if that is the solution.AV sell them for about £150 each plus the dreaded and delivery etc etc.You may be lucky and get a set from Fleabay.
I have just finished a project that involved cutting the centres out of my rims and having them re-welded to emulate the offset of the widetrack wheels.They are now 75mm further out.Mog rims lend themselves very well to being cut and re-centred if you look at how they are welded together.You just need a big f/o lathe.
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Dreadnought
Winch Assistant


Joined: 30 Oct 2009
Odometer: 56
Location: Swindon/Pstragowa



PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 7:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks everybody, I did spend some time yesterday looking at what A.V. have lying around, but prices with postage and VAT will be HIGH!. Manpower and engineering is cheap (If a little basic - Imagine some huge old 'steam' powered lathe left over from commie times!!!!) here, so I am now going with a combination of DXmedia,s and normalbloke,s suggestions, I will have the spare wheel centre cut out and re-welded a few centimetres further in, the valve hole welded up and a new one cut. I will then buy one of the russian tyres (with tube) and use my spare as a 'mule' to test everything, before comitting to 5 new tyres. I don,t need width, with respect to you guys who get good results with wide flotation tyres, they would be useless here and would just spin, it takes a thin-ish tyre with deep cleats to make any headway in this thin yellow clay. One thing I have noticed, is that the yearly test here takes no account of tyres that stick outboard of the bodywork so widening the rims won,t make any difference in that respect...though as a tractor (if used on the road) it has to have a yearly Test here unlike UK.
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I wanted a Landrover I got one, I wanted a Pinzgauer I got one, I wanted a Unimog I got one.
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minimog
Off-Road Guru


Joined: 25 Nov 2004
Odometer: 1700




PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 2:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

just as a thought are you running a 404 or the later 406/416
__________________________________
WHAT YOUR ASKED WHEN YOU OWN A MOG
"why have you put a merc star on that"
UNIMOG MOTTO
"IF IT CARNT BE FIXED WITH A BIG HAMMER"
IT MUST BE AN ELECTRICAL FAULT"
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Dreadnought
Winch Assistant


Joined: 30 Oct 2009
Odometer: 56
Location: Swindon/Pstragowa



PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry Minimog, Although a Unimog just like yours would be ideal here (small roads, small lanes - no need for anymore than a steady 30MPH) we have a stuffing great big U1300L - ex bundesheer (Army helicopter lot!) on standard military 11x20 rims.
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