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Booger's build thread
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nivapulledout
Just got MTs


Joined: 30 Nov 2008
Odometer: 363
Location: high seas or New Zealand



PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 10:59 am    Post subject: Booger's build thread Reply with quote

Well I thought instead of doing a thread on each mod that I do (Ie seat fitting and winch fitting threads) I thought it is high time I started a build thread on my little green ball of snot that I call "booger"

I have got the wedding organisation, visiting people and camping out of the way and put my missus on a flight home and now I can finally get down to doing all the mods I have lined up.

I have 4 weeks of unadulterated modding to be done and have kicked it off today with a visit to the certifier here in Hamilton NZ. these are the jobs I checked with him on.

Lift - I wanted to do the hoodoo 1 front lift as I like the way it straightened the springs, he agreed and said the wedges were the best out of them all, he would not pass tube spacers under the spring seat. also said it ok to remove sway bar.

engine transplant- no worry's at all and just said good luck.

front diff -no problems at all

box side sills- anything I wanted was fine. including incorporating rock sliders.

rear disk brake- did not accept a hydraulic hand brake but suggested most the japa's have cable handbrake setup on the rear calipers and should be piece of ****, did not mind welding caliper bracket to diff tube either which Is a bonus.

large tyres - will cert for 31" just need speedo calibration. No worries

seats- he passed what I had done so that is one tick in the box already.

rear towbar incorporated into bumper made by me. does not require certing.( this took me by suprise as I thought something that you can hook a 1-2 ton trailer onto and travel at speed is slightly more important than a speedo reading correctly)

Power steer box- did not accept cloggys way as no welding to be done to fill splines, a complete new drop arm needs to be fabricated and either a spline cut in or (he said this is due to change soon) can turn down the toyota spline so it has 5mm wall and then press fit into new drop arm and Tig weld around the lips and then have crack tested. mmm I am going for option 2 as will be alot easier and cheaper. although fabbing a drop arm is going to cost.


I will try and keep a good pic library and explain how I did things so others can follow suit if they feel the need.

Tomorrow will be moving all the cars around and setting up, hope to pull the engine tomorrow , I thrashed the F*%k out of it tonight as a little farewell, will be sad to see it go as it never let me down once. purrs like a kitten and starts first pop. Will keep it just in case anything goes wrong Wink
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Giovanni
Just got MTs


Joined: 01 Dec 2006
Odometer: 438
Location: Enderley,Hamilton,North Island,New Zealand,South Pacific.


1988 Lada Niva

PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 6:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great catching up with Mark and yourself last night.Wish you all the best with your'Booger'project and I will call by and see how things are going soon.
__________________________________
"Make love to a Niva owner.We need more of them,OVER!"

73 de 41-HN3800 / CEF-195 / SAS-1173 / ZL1PO / ZMT5152
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Over here you're ok with an hydraulic handbrake, provided the cable operated system is kept for everyday use. Same over there?
Looking forward to the photos and write-ups!
Regards,
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nivapulledout
Just got MTs


Joined: 30 Nov 2008
Odometer: 363
Location: high seas or New Zealand



PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hay John,
Yeah it was great to meet you finally, and to meet Mark. few good tips and pointers went down range. Nice meal and a beer at the cossie club.

"Over here you're ok with an hydraulic handbrake, provided the cable operated system is kept for everyday use. Same over there? "

but how do you work that one hoodoo? I meant hydraulic handbrake using front calipers on the rear and the hanbrake to work the circuit 2 piston. but that was a big no no, will just get a rear caliper with a cable operation for the handbrake
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nivapulledout
Just got MTs


Joined: 30 Nov 2008
Odometer: 363
Location: high seas or New Zealand



PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 10:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

well have the old petrol out and have started the jigsaw puzzle of fitting the xud9.
not getting as much time as I would like as I am trying to tenant out my rental house at the same time so have to do viewings in the afternoons. however here are the things that I have found I will need to do.

-inlet manifold
- space the flywheel more than what the adaptor plate thickness is.not sure about spigot bearing at this stage maybe make a new one into the spacer
-incorporate into the adaptor plate the mounting for the starter motor
- grind out the inside of the bell housing a bit to let the flywheel fit in as it is 10mm in dai bigger than the lada one.
- make a new exhaust flange to bolt onto turbo as factory one comes off at wrong angle.
- install oil seal onto back of camshaft where vacuum pump was removed and plug oil return hole.
-need to find out what the glow relay wiring code is
-want to move the power steer and alternator as they both sit right at the bottom of the engine right where the mud is.
-Thinking of using a citroen pulley that bolts onto where the vacuum pump sits and maybe drive a alternator with vacuum pump from it??????? not sure if the speed will be enough as it will be turning at half speed, this is used on citroen to power the suspension hydraulic pump. Any Ideas on this would be a help.
- am thinking about using a toyota MR2 electric power steer pump and that will eliminate one of the problems.

So I got a call to go help my uncle who I got to buy a gem 4sp 1600 niva, he is a perfectionist and has spent the last three months doing this baby up,(it was rust free when he bought it) anyway I adjusted and bleed the brakes for him and the pedal feel was fantastic, so we took it for its first drive and it is like a bought one he he. I have put some pics in of it.



so then I headed over to a recommended local citroen wrecker, so I had a look at a natural asp diesel and they dont have a smaller flywheel so the bellhousing grind is a definate, the intake manifold looks harder to get to work than the turbo one and it sits higher and may foul the bonnet. however I did pick up a new timing belt and water pump and this is where I saw that they run a pulley off the camshaft instead of a vacuum pump. this is where I got the idea of maybe driving a alternator vacuum pump combo off it, upside is that the alternator will be nice and high out of mud water and will be reasonably easy to mount, downside is pulley may foul on firewall and may turn at to low a speed to allow the alternator to charge at idle.


any tips Ideas or pics on any of the above would be most appreciated
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 7:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

milhouse87 wrote:

but how do you work that one hoodoo? I meant hydraulic handbrake using front calipers on the rear and the hanbrake to work the circuit 2 piston. but that was a big no no, will just get a rear caliper with a cable operation for the handbrake


Was thinking of a unit let into the existing rear brake lines. Press footbrake, pull lever, and pressure maintained to rear brakes. Ordinary cable handbrake can still be used. Only useful for parking though, not for doing handbrake turns etc!!! Very Happy
Regards,
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simonallen
Off-Road Guru


Joined: 05 Jan 2006
Odometer: 1019
Location: In the s**t most of the time...


1997 Lada Niva

PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

you have 2 options for an inlet manifold...

peugeot 406 which has a front mounted intercooler,
or a rover 218 which is the 1.8 td rover, but it's actually a pug engine. also has a front mounted intercooler. You can also get yours modified as per these :




if you want to ask questions about the above one pm a guy called redrooster on here, he did it to fit the pug engine in a vitara
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nivapulledout
Just got MTs


Joined: 30 Nov 2008
Odometer: 363
Location: high seas or New Zealand



PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 11:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hay Simon,
glad you are here, I will most probably buy a spool gun for my mig and modify the manifold myself. do you reckon it needs the plenum chamber as thinking of cutting the manifold down to the tubes and then running a 45mm tube along the top and welding each tube into it??

I have another question, have dropped the sump and the oil pickup is fouling, do you know if there are any others available? I am thinking that I might just cut the pickup off and should be able to press a copper tube into the inlet gallery to the oil pump. then I can route it to the front deeper part of the sump.??????
I am about to go down and buy the steel to make my adaptor still flying blind on this one cause no one seems to want to give out their patterns. any tips on this would be welcome.
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nivapulledout
Just got MTs


Joined: 30 Nov 2008
Odometer: 363
Location: high seas or New Zealand



PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 8:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

well had a semi productive day today. as I was jumping between helping dad shape new panels for the rust he cut out and sorting my one out.

I have now given a drawing to the engineering shop to get a flywheel spacer machined up, after alot of measuring that was. the flywheel on the lada engine is alot further away from the mounting face of the block than the pug one which is just recessed into the block. this means that even though I will be using 5 mm adaptor plate I will need to use a 33mm flywheel spacer to keep the flywheel face the same position inside the bellhousing. however this has allowed enough room to fit the lada spigot ball bearing into the spacer so that is one problem solved.

I had also played with the idea of welding up the lada flywheel and then re drilling the holes to suit the pug crank. however that would mean I would have to balance it again and being smaller diameter I would have to grind out more of the block to let the starter fit. I am not sure if the pug starter will need grinding of the block but it looks like it. I think possibly the starter is mounted from the gearbox side??? simon does the pug starter normally sit on the right or left hand side when looking from the front?anyway I am sticking with the pug flywheel even though I will need to grind a couple of mm off the inside of the bellhousing.

I have also realized if I have the engine vertical which I thought all the conversions were that the timing belt and a bit of the rocker cover will foul with the bonnet, then looking back at kartmans thread on his one I realise that people were actually leaning them over what seems like the same angle as what it sits like in the pug. this allows the timing belt cover to sit under the bonnet but makes the turbo harder to get and and the exhaust is closer to the steering box. and seeing as I am putting in the bigger toyota box this is undesirable. so for now I am going to keep it vertical(simon you did tell me that this is ok didnt you) and most prob make a bonnet bulge to house the timing cover, will most prob make this out of cut up pieces from my wrecks bonnet. not ideal but ok.
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simonallen
Off-Road Guru


Joined: 05 Jan 2006
Odometer: 1019
Location: In the s**t most of the time...


1997 Lada Niva

PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kartmanz has cut his bonnet to fit the intercooler and all the other gubbins underneath. or alternatively, when people do the fiat twin cam conversion they have to space the front of the bonnet up slightly. not sure how much yours will need to go up for clearence though? may look a bit silly if it's got to go too high.
oil pickup...
Karl's is exactly as you describe. I don't think i car much for it to be honest, seems to me that it could fall off quite easy. When I relocated mine for the v6, I made a steel one. It's easy enough to make that little plate that bolts to the oil pump if you got a spare piece of box section etc to cut up and then build the rest off that. I taked mine together with the mig, then brazed it all up. Make sure you brace it to the block, as when you run the engine, if there is any possibility that the thing can bend downeards towards the sump, when it's sucking cold thick oil it will. Obviously an oil pickup sucking at steel instead of loveley oil isn't desireable.
As you are making your own sump (presumeably bottom half of lada one welded to top half of pug one) then mounting vericle is absolutely fine. Also note you need to mount your dipstick tube in the side of the sump - as the pug one won't go into the right bit of the sump any more and give you a false reading.
On a side note, not sure if i've told you this? but anyway. when you weld your sump, screw it down to a piece of wood to prevent warping. I sent one of mine like a banana the first time i welded it. meant scrapping it and starting again. Also probably a good idea to braze around the welds you do, as it's surprising how many pin holes hot oil will find in even the tidiest of welds.
The way you want to do your inlet manifold sounds fine to me. what intercooler would you use then though?

I'm jabbering again, sorry Embarassed
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simonallen
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Joined: 05 Jan 2006
Odometer: 1019
Location: In the s**t most of the time...


1997 Lada Niva

PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

also,
I know it's not for your engine and box, but the theory is the same...
a basic guide to making an adapter plate:
http://www.motorswaps.net/forum/showthread.php?p=4106
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nivapulledout
Just got MTs


Joined: 30 Nov 2008
Odometer: 363
Location: high seas or New Zealand



PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Simon,
jabber away all you want I need back up he he.

Bonnet - Looking at it today I will lay the engine over slightly as a compromise, this is due to two reasons, 1) it lifts the block away from the diff on the right hand(from front) side which is the tightest, and so allow the sump to be thicker 2) it will lower the rocker cover/timing cover a bit.

Intercooler- I have a cunning plan due to the height and cross bracing on the bonnet there is only two places to mount the intercooler so it sits flush with the bonnet and does not compromise anything. Far LH side or far RH side. the norway guys have theirs on the RHS and now I have the engine and cooler it makes sense. I will mount on the RHS of the bonnet as you are sitting in the drivers seat, and will rotate the cooler so the inlet is outlet and vise versa, this puts them in very easy to pipe places. the cooler to manifold will run along the fire wall straight into the new manifold I hope to make( see pics I have already cut it up Shocked ) and the turbo to cooler will be almost a straight run(once I rotate the compressor housing a bit) into the wierd rectangle shaped flange on the cooler. I am taking a punt that the cooler will still work ok in reverse. might lose about 5 % but that is ok.

oil pump- to0 late I have already cut the pump front cover in half and have used copper step up joiners to make a usable flange from the galleries, I used a 15-20mm step joiner (this is ID) and after putting a bit of a taper on the face of the gallery so the copper could get started, I pressed them in. they are very tight in there and now all I have to do is go buy some pipe and two 90 deg bends and then cut and mark it so the pickup sits in the correct place. then will braze it up and brace it so as you say there is no strain on it.

Oil pick up- I have trimmed the tube already as a temp measure however I think it should still be usable as looking at where the old level was it was about a 20mm bellow the crank and I should still be able to remark the existing dip to achieve this.
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nivapulledout
Just got MTs


Joined: 30 Nov 2008
Odometer: 363
Location: high seas or New Zealand



PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 8:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

oh and thanks for the adaptor plate thread, I had actually seen that one a while back but did not book mark it and could not find it again, handy.
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simonallen
Off-Road Guru


Joined: 05 Jan 2006
Odometer: 1019
Location: In the s**t most of the time...


1997 Lada Niva

PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 8:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

no worries Very Happy
sounds like you have it all in hand!
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baxter
Articulating


Joined: 08 May 2006
Odometer: 647
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand


1990 Lada Niva

PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 8:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Booger's build thread Reply with quote

milhouse87 wrote:

Lift - I wanted to do the hoodoo 1 front lift as I like the way it straightened the springs, he agreed and said the wedges were the best out of them all, he would not pass tube spacers under the spring seat. also said it ok to remove sway bar.

So he'd cert a Hoodoo? Excellent news if so; was that a Hoodoo from box or solid?

__________________________________
1990 Niva 1600, 2" lift, LSD
www.ladaniva.co.uk/baxter -Baxter's Temple of Niva Site
If you do not have anything to occupy yourself - buy a Niva.
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nivapulledout
Just got MTs


Joined: 30 Nov 2008
Odometer: 363
Location: high seas or New Zealand



PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hay bax,
he said it ok with cut box. I said I would tack it to the spring seat he said fine. but he also said that the Hoodoo 2 would be ok just not ideal compared to 1.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 3:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Booger's build thread Reply with quote

baxter wrote:
milhouse87 wrote:

Lift - I wanted to do the hoodoo 1 front lift as I like the way it straightened the springs, he agreed and said the wedges were the best out of them all, he would not pass tube spacers under the spring seat. also said it ok to remove sway bar.

So he'd cert a Hoodoo? Excellent news if so; was that a Hoodoo from box or solid?


What do you mean cert a Hoodoo? I'll have you know my Doctor says I'm perfectly normal!! Very Happy (My wife thinks my Doctor's stupid!! Very Happy Very Happy )

Must admit, I prefer the Mk1 at the front.
Regards,
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nivapulledout
Just got MTs


Joined: 30 Nov 2008
Odometer: 363
Location: high seas or New Zealand



PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 10:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

well today, not much work alot of mucking around, had to go to hamilton twice which is about 30 min trip each way, second time was to try and get my parts of the old eccentric citron wrecker, got a new water pump, no cambelt he has to order it, I took my pug flywheel and lada pressure plate which were not matching up perfect on the contact surfaces and he brought out a new pressure plate he had lying around, it turned out to be too small for the flywheel but a perfect fit for the friction disk, worked out it was a naturally aspirated clutch so that was why I needed the N/A flywheel, not for the diameter but for the clutch to match!!!! so he is going to dig out a N/A flywheel for me and a starter. sorted.
went to the engineering shop and picked up all the steel I need and they had finished the flywheels spacer, sorted out bolts and as kartzman found out you cannot get M9x1mm bolts so I have re-tapped to M10x1mm
pulled out the front diff and springs ready for the steel diff and the hoodoo mk 1 to go in.
fitted the kit that will let me use a spool gun to my mig welder so I can aluminium weld the manifold.
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nivapulledout
Just got MTs


Joined: 30 Nov 2008
Odometer: 363
Location: high seas or New Zealand



PostPosted: Wed Mar 03, 2010 9:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

well today was good, I got the front diff out and made a jig.
then I started to cut up the rear diff and have found a problem, the short side of the diff seems to me to be too short to be able to work, I have cut right back to the diff head and even trimmed a bit off the diff head. but I have made my flanges 13mm and the bearing is 14mm and the gap I have is under 12mm. need at least 15mm pref more otherwise the bearing would be exposed. but cant go any more because of the diff head.
I have a feeling the guys that have done this before have moved the diff over about 10mm or so to give a bit more space for this ?????
would love to hear from you simon as you are one of the few people that have done this. how thick where your flanges? I seem to remember that you said they were too thin.?????
Any way will work something out and let you guys know how I solved it
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nivapulledout
Just got MTs


Joined: 30 Nov 2008
Odometer: 363
Location: high seas or New Zealand



PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 9:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

another day of mixed results, it amazes me where the time goes if you have to leave and go and do something. just pop out and get this"yeah right".
between my rental and helping the old man build his new kitchen I had about 3 hours work on the lada.
got the front hoodoo wedges cut out and welded on. turned out nice and real glad I did this method than hoodoo II, however seeing as I have the engine out and I have my new springs in (progressive ones from russia) I dont think I am going to be able to compress them by just jacking under the lower wishbone. mmmmmm I think I will have to pull it under the carport and brace the body to the roof then jack it up and hope I dont lift the deck and roof off he he.
I contacted madman and he gave me his drawings and said he rotated that flange so the bolt holes are not intruding and makes it easier to get to the diff head bolts. he also made his flange for that side out of 10mm plate. still not sure how he housed the 14mm bearing but guessing weld build up then a bit of dai grinding. will have a better pick when I get my flanges back.
tomorrow I hope to pick up the N/A flywheel, cambelt and starter so I can get back onto the adaptor plate and starter mounting. but wont go there till 4 so my morning will involve getting the toyota gearbox mounted to the chassis. ( I dont recommend this mod to any budget minded kiwis as I think the new cert compliant drop arm is going to cost me about 500-700 NZ) as it needs to be made out of billet and milled. with offset lathe work for the balljoint holes. unless you have a wicked wksp or a machinist mate that owes you one big favour. And that is just the drop arm, I still have to get a non welded input shaft made and also the hydraulic pipes made to fit the box as non came with it.
anyway can only press on but feels like an aussie cricket team trying to chase down the kiwis at the moment(he he bit of a dig at the diggers as they have lost a 20/20 and one day match to us now)

sleep time Wink
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nivapulledout
Just got MTs


Joined: 30 Nov 2008
Odometer: 363
Location: high seas or New Zealand



PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ps you reckon the spring is around the correct way??? I guess it will work the same both ways, but dont want some know it all knob come up and go " hay Lada D*&k you got your springs upside down"
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gadgetboy
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rachet strap the upper and lower wishbones together.
__________________________________
Move along. Nothing to see here.
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baxter
Articulating


Joined: 08 May 2006
Odometer: 647
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand


1990 Lada Niva

PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

milhouse87 wrote:
Hay bax,
he said it ok with cut box. I said I would tack it to the spring seat he said fine. but he also said that the Hoodoo 2 would be ok just not ideal compared to 1.

Good result!

The cert guy down here pretty much laughed at the suggestion of box, and wanted it x-rayed if the welder when near anything.

__________________________________
1990 Niva 1600, 2" lift, LSD
www.ladaniva.co.uk/baxter -Baxter's Temple of Niva Site
If you do not have anything to occupy yourself - buy a Niva.
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madman
Just got MTs


Joined: 28 Mar 2008
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Location: Winnipeg, MB Canada


1996 Lada Niva

PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking good, but I can't take credit for the diagrams. I believe it was Si that found them.
__________________________________
Viva la Niva
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simonallen
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Joined: 05 Jan 2006
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1997 Lada Niva

PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

they were on a russian forum Smile

wasn't me that found them either Laughing
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nivapulledout
Just got MTs


Joined: 30 Nov 2008
Odometer: 363
Location: high seas or New Zealand



PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I went down and picked up my flanges, and got stuck into the diff saga.
well long side very straight fwd, short side not so,
Alot of grinding out of the diff housing needs to be done, as the flange is only 10mm and the bearing 14mm the places where the bearing does not go into void are of course the worst bits (the gasket flange and back end) you need to get quite agressive if you are going to do this and can only leave about 4mm of sealing surface left on the diff to housing flange.
After bolting up the axle flanges to the jig and a little bit of alighnment with the accurate eye-o-meter to make sure the housing is sitting square I tacked it off. did a quick test fit with the CVs and all is good. then welded up the seams, have to built up the weld where the bearing sits so that dai grinding is kept to a min on the inside. it all came out quite good with what looked like a bit of spatter to clean up and a little bit of ginding of welds so the bearing will sit all the way in.
Problem, the 18mm flange bearing fits as normal, 10 mm flange has somehow distorted a bit (flange face still ok just bearing hole seems to have egg shaped) I am guessing from alot of heat where I was building up the welds. well I sit down with a bit of emery and start fitting the bearing and sanding and fitting and sanding and fitting and sanding. WOW three hours flew by and still not fitting correctly, sore thumb and hot as hell I decide to go down to the limited hardware shops in my town and see if they have a sanding flapper disk thingy, sure enough they do and 10 min later bearing fits, wish I had done that 3 hours ago!!!!!
So now I set too mounting the diff, Now seeing as there are not very many pics or write up ons doing the steel front diff I did not know which mountings to go with, deffinatly did not want Solid mounts so have used the rubbers off one of the spare rear links I have. I think you did the same simon?? SO ended up using the same idea as everyone else just mate it slighty different.
so cut out all the plates and tacked them in , ( by this time it was dark and doing it by torchlight) pulled the diff out and managed to do 3 welds and the gas ran out!!!!! F*&K Sh*t Wa#$^r now it will be sunday and no gas. so plan to pull the diff head apart and swap out the gears and the diff for my old gears(this diff had been sitting long time and has pitts on the crown wheel where it was sitting in the oil/water mix) and my nice shiny new ATB LSD. yay.
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nivapulledout
Just got MTs


Joined: 30 Nov 2008
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 10:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So today with no welder I decided I would have a clean up and sit down and reconfigure my time line, I have made the Big decision that I am not going to put power steer in ( for now) three reasons made up my mind
1/ price - all up just for PS it would have cost me over a grand,
2/ fitting it in with the turbo was a real nightmare
3/ now I think of it I have never minded the standard steering.

So with that decision made I reinstalled the SPAM steering box but at the same time I made a plate to go on the wheel side of the bolts to try and stop the cracks(although there are no signs of it yet I would like to keep it that way)

I then went into town to meet some of my army buddies and while waiting for them I happened to end up a super cheap autos Razz Laughing I looked for some rear shocks and after two looks through their shelf full found some that were just (4mm) longer when compressed and 50mm longer extended. I got shoppers high on and using the excuse I am cutting up my sway bar so to keep the ride gas ones would be the ticket, so back through the pile I went again and found some that are very similar on the valving and same compressed length but little longer on ext (10mm).KYB they are made in Japan so I hope they are good.
I got them cheap cause I went though there limited stock and supposedly you get them cheaper if they are on the shelf.. 300NZD instead of 500 for the whole lot.

so I get home and get stuck into making my adaptor plate( I have been procrastinating) and as it turned out it is not hard at all and had it made in 3-4 hours. you just get the engine part made then lift the gearbox on so it engages the spigot then mark where the holes are after you have it in position. so now I have a gearbox bolting onto the engine however I still have as yet to get the starter to mount as this will involve cutting up the bell housing and welding the starter mount from the pug bell housing to the lada one. and not only will it be on the rh side it will also have to be back alot further due to the fly wheel now spaced out alot/ however this will have to wait untill I pull my gearbox as I dont want to axe up my spare Gearbox .

I have worked out I can seal off the whole bellhousing apart from where the starter will fit. I could seal this off as well but it will be a mission and a half. so I am wondering if it will be better to leave the bottom half open so if mud water etc does get in there(and it will) it can drain out or have me water blast it out ???? Is this a good Idea or bad which way would you guys go?

tomorrow is another day.
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Giovanni
Just got MTs


Joined: 01 Dec 2006
Odometer: 438
Location: Enderley,Hamilton,North Island,New Zealand,South Pacific.


1988 Lada Niva

PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="milhouse87"]

I have worked out I can seal off the whole bellhousing apart from where the starter will fit. I could seal this off as well but it will be a mission and a half. so I am wondering if it will be better to leave the bottom half open so if mud water etc does get in there(and it will) it can drain out or have me water blast it out ???? quote]

Great progress.I would be inclined,easier said than done, to seal off all openings.I have seen many a starter motor fail shortly afte repair due to crud, mud and swamp water entering and seizing up the carbon brush holders,pinion drive movement,solenoid plunger etc,etc,.If left open the starter may need to be broken apart cleaned and WD40'd each time after a mud run.Also go easy with the water blaster!Once again compliments on the rapid progress.

__________________________________
"Make love to a Niva owner.We need more of them,OVER!"

73 de 41-HN3800 / CEF-195 / SAS-1173 / ZL1PO / ZMT5152
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niva nut
Gate Opener


Joined: 28 Dec 2007
Odometer: 32
Location: Sheffield



PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well done with the work so far its coming on very well Very Happy
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nivapulledout
Just got MTs


Joined: 30 Nov 2008
Odometer: 363
Location: high seas or New Zealand



PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

got some more gas this morning and checked out a shop to put my LSDs into my diffs.
got back and finished welding the front diff up then sprayed it. sorted out what I need to do for the rear disk brakes so took the axles down to get machined a bit to fit the disks.
then fitted the engine. F)&k I have made the adaptor plate with the engine leaning over too much now it wont fit. Spend all the rest of the afternoon re-doing the adaptor plate and finally on sundown it was finished and the test run is looking good for now.
I then removed the rear axles and diff of booga so the diff can have the LSD fitted and the modified axles will replace mine.
Tomorrow is another day, sorry no pics but it was dark by the time I had anything intersting to take, will post the ones I took tomorrow as now I am too poked.
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