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(pete) Mud Obsessed
Joined: 19 Nov 2006 Odometer: 5806 Location: aldershot
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Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 11:00 pm Post subject: few mk1 4.0 running gear questions
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hi guys and galls hoping for a little help from the mk1 4.0 owners please
firstly i would like to know how long the engine, gearbox and transferbox is when bolted together out of the engine bay and a ballpark figure on how much it weighs
second question is how wide and what ratios the axles are also how well do they cope with large tyres (33-35's upwards)
and last one is do the engines react well running with lpg rather than petrol
thanks for your help
pete
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The Smiths Articulating
Joined: 21 Nov 2007 Odometer: 711 Location: Doncaster
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Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 11:08 pm Post subject:
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Ratios:
4.0L = 3.56
2.5TD = 3.73
2.5L petrol = 4.11
they do not cope well with 35 plus - though better than landy axles - but you will bust them if not careful.
engines are very good with LPG single or multi.
cannot be ***** to measure the stuff for you - but engine etc is very heavy
__________________________________ If you always do what you have always done,
you always get what you've always got. |
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(pete) Mud Obsessed
Joined: 19 Nov 2006 Odometer: 5806 Location: aldershot
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Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 11:17 pm Post subject:
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so from your list the better axles would be the 2.5 petrol ones as the gearing is better
are the all the engines cars iron in the older jeeps im guessing so as there yanky cars and they love the iron
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The Smiths Articulating
Joined: 21 Nov 2007 Odometer: 711 Location: Doncaster
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Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 12:53 am Post subject:
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cast iron blocks and heads - big transfer boxes and gearboxes.
if you get a 2.5L axle from a facelift it will be the Chrysler 8.25 with 29 spline axles - this is as good as it gets before alloy shafts, better for the bigger tyres.
Hope you are thinking of using these big tyres on something else - as 33's is a squeeze, 35's would mean reforming inner arches on the back (unless you stop all articulation)
__________________________________ If you always do what you have always done,
you always get what you've always got. |
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aopoleyin Articulating
Joined: 27 Jun 2007 Odometer: 712 Location: Correze, France
1989 Jeep Cherokee
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Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 9:35 am Post subject:
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Axle strength is perfectly reasonable, when you remember that the XJ was specified for a 2.5l petrol engine or a 2.1 TD, with a 2.8 V6 as the top end option, the 4.0 was a later addition (as the V6 was crap).
If your hunting scrapyards for parts, one thing to keep in mind is that LHD diesels may have 4.11 ratio diffs, possibly also a DANA 44 in the rear as opposed to a DANA 35 (tow/utility package).
Ditto, the front axle on early (LHD, pre-93, except 4 litre) XJs is a physically stronger casting, but has weaker U-joints, can be upgraded with the internals from a later axle for best strength overall.
If you're sticking to UK vehicles though, best option is as above, 2.5l facelift, but go for a pre-2000 vehicle. 2000 and 2001 model year changed to a low-pinion DANA 30 in the front, not as strong.
What are you building, we need photos...
__________________________________ 1989 Renault XJ Cherokee TD |
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dxmedia Mud Obsessed
Joined: 10 Dec 2008 Odometer: 2185
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Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 10:57 am Post subject:
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engine gearbox and transfer case,
ball park figure - 300kg's for the engine, 150 for the gearbox and another 50 for the transfer case.
1/2 tonne give or take. Based on I know that the 2.8 trooper engine (which is cast head and block) is 250kg's.
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(pete) Mud Obsessed
Joined: 19 Nov 2006 Odometer: 5806 Location: aldershot
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Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 10:22 pm Post subject:
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well the engine and axles may be going into/under a suzuki sj chassis and shell with tube front and back ends coil springs on the rear with 4 link set up and custom leaf spring packs upfront
because of the tube body work there will be masses of tyre space to use hence the questions of how things will cope with large rubber
the weight of the block and boxes is a cause for concern tho so it may be time to think along the jeep axle rover V8 lines but for the cost of a v8 engine i can buy a whole mk1 cherokee
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The Smiths Articulating
Joined: 21 Nov 2007 Odometer: 711 Location: Doncaster
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Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 10:39 pm Post subject:
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the length of engine, gearbox and transfer case is longer than a SJ
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aopoleyin Articulating
Joined: 27 Jun 2007 Odometer: 712 Location: Correze, France
1989 Jeep Cherokee
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Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 10:45 pm Post subject:
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The Smiths wrote: | the length of engine, gearbox and transfer case is longer than a SJ |
Also, why a leaf-sprung front when there's a rather good 4-link setup waiting on your proposed donor vehicle? It'll even fit the mounting points on the axle...
__________________________________ 1989 Renault XJ Cherokee TD |
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(pete) Mud Obsessed
Joined: 19 Nov 2006 Odometer: 5806 Location: aldershot
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Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 12:00 am Post subject:
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because leaf springs are a simple thing for me to adjust for ride comfort and height, and i can gain just as much "flex" from them as a coil there is also less work involved with fitting a pair of perches to the axle than modding the steering and chassis to far from standard at the front of the sj
the only reason im 4 linking the rear is because the car will have 8-10 inch wheel base stretch in the rear and the only way i can do that is with coil springs
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dxmedia Mud Obsessed
Joined: 10 Dec 2008 Odometer: 2185
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Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 8:05 am Post subject:
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Why not use hi-lux axles? 10 a penny and very strong.
rv8 is a good light engine, and a fair selection of cheap gearboxes to go with them.
I'd stear away from the dana 30 35 combination if you want to put 35's on, that 2 pin diff just isn't up to the job imo
If you can get to 4.56 - the isuzu 12 bolt (trooper rear axle) is a monster, it's an upgrade to the d44, and again, 10 a penny, oh and normally comes with an LSD (g80 option code on bulkhead)
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