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Team Idris - Range Rover Based Trialer
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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 4:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This picture was sent to me today Very Happy



I suspect it went further over than this?

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SASKY
Winch Assistant


Joined: 23 Sep 2009
Odometer: 60




PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 12:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah it was further over than that. yeah it smoked a bit early on but just kept running all day. next up is leinthall starks in may on new tyres. those mud pluggers are worse than useless
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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Mon May 13, 2013 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The wheel end of the drag link was loose in the thread at the last scruteneering. I have a feeling this has happened before so I am guessing the thread is worn? So while over Moordore way, I sneaked into Gwyn Lewis for a Sumo bar and ball joint (with greece nipple). Great service as usual + advice Smile

Also, he has a bit of an offer on a solid bar one if you need it?

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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nervous, oh yes!
Our first proper winch challenge tomorrow since the engine went down at Bridgenorth early in 2011 Shocked
Lets see what we make of Lea Bridge. We have recovery gear and a bag of mini mars bars Cool

I also need to get some pics/vid of the new 920mm wide dozer blade I made for it.

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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 6:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lea Bridge is a great site and LRS was like an old Midland off road club event, which was also spot on Very Happy

We picked the perfect time to fit a hydraulic rear and electric top line. The hydraulic was great for traversing side slopes and general hauling, while the top line was ideal for putting the truck back on its wheels Confused

Some welding to do and I split the new ball joint boot Sad
Haven't looked underneath yet though, (except at second punch where I had to use the chassis as a ladder)

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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Thu Jun 20, 2013 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

With welding to do and only 200psi of argoshield Light left, it was time to act. But the BOC bill has crept up on cost, so I rang Air Products and Energas for quotes. Energas was slightly higher on the annual rental than AP being £49, but both cheaper than BOC on a 10litre bottle. Energas also do a 5 year rental for around £130. So I decided I was going with one or the other and rang BOC to see how to shut my account.
They were like don't Panic, we have a BOC Hobbyist scheme! So I've changed up to a 20 litre 'Y' which, if I have understood right, is below £40 a year rental and about £25 for the refill without the £14.40 'delivery charge'.
More gas for less money sounds good. Lets hope the bill matches the speel Very Happy

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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2013 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote



A near roll, a lot like the one at Halfway House, but this time I really thought it was going over, so I cut the engine. It got like this after sliding sideways with gusto. It really is just balanced there like that. The electric top-line was the resurrection tool of choice.
There are pictures of it totally rolled on its right side if I can get it sent to me.

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bigbuggy
Just got MTs


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Odometer: 260




PostPosted: Sat Jun 22, 2013 1:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

you coulda driven out of that, lockers in & lhd & give it some
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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Sat Jun 22, 2013 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I reckoned discretion was the better part of valour on that one after shutting it down. A re-start and wiggling would have had it going right over. Would have been cool mind, if I'd pulled off a second self-right this year Cool

I beat the front wings back into shape today and blanked the winch feed pipe ready to re-set the relief valve, as full-pull looked low on the gauge?
Also checked the top bolts on the exhaust manifolds, as there was chuffing near the end. Next job is crawl underneath and check the bottom row.
Main job on the list is to check the dragon-waggon brakes, but if it rains again tomorrow like today, I might start on the beast's chassis repair Very Happy

p.s. Dozer blade now has yellow stripes on the sides Laughing

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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It Rained Rolling Eyes
Unfair to grumble given that it was so nice last Sunday Laughing

Anyhoo, remember this picky from two pages back? Where I welded 1" BSP male adapters to the 2mm thick chassis? Well, it ripped this one out like it was a sardine tin, so it now has a 3mm steel patch. I'm guessing the rip started at the bottom, so the patch has a 16mm turned edge. (good sized hammer in large vice) In theory it could rip it out again, but I'm not worried, as the sneaky tree stump that got in there could easily have killed the shock if it weren't for this part. So I'll call it 'sacrificial' and try to avoid 'backward' and 'out of control' in the same moment Wink

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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote


Link


I was bored and fancied a daft project, so I fabricated this small dozer blade for recovering other vehicles. Really I should have been doing the new fiddle brake set up.
It replaces that aluminium A frame 'thing' that went on the back, which worked sort of okay.

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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Last time out at Broseley we killed the ground anchor and had fuel pump pressure problems. Here's the ground anchor in its latest form;


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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Fri Oct 04, 2013 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There was clunking noise from the right-rear tyre area. Investigation showed the shock was more square than round!! So the shakedown while marshalling at Stone for S&SLRC was useful.

I wasn't happy with my new fuel pressure at 6.5psi. I rang the man who re-conditioned my SU carbs and he said 3 to 5 psi. So I spent Thursday stripping the fuel lines out, to find out why there was so much back pressure? I found another 'return' restrictor at the carb end. Now its gone I'm hanging around 4 psi Very Happy

I rang Gwyn for parts including a sumo track rod. As our standard RRC part got tweeked at LRS3, it was time for a new thing. He talked me into a steering gaurd to go with it!
I also got a new rear ball joint, as the one currently fitted arrived with the truck in 1991.

I did deploy the new range-dozer ground anchor at Stone comp, but the brakes held the winches force, so it didn't dig in. But it was excellent for carrying the marker sticks back afterward. I'll be using that again Cool

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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Fri Oct 04, 2013 6:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I notice there is no mention of a change from Durite fuel pump to Facet Red Top and fuel pressure gauge?
Note; I changed from 'Durite fuel pump to Facet Red Top'. It wasn't as simple as it should have been Wink

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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2013 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have now fitted the track rod guard; http://www.gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/page29.html

Sits about an inch lower than the track rod, fits on without filing, galvanised, looks sturdy. So a Team Idris thumbs up Cool

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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just about to fit new milemarker winch bearings. The last ones were bought in January 2010, so not a bad run. They are a bit sacrificial being plastic, so I need to drill in some Greece nipples to get a bit more life. But lets face it, this typeR milemarker isn't a Saley or a Red, so the cost reduction had to come from somewhere, and the drum metal doesn't look worn, so I guess it works okay. And this time the bearings and O rings look okay, so the washers I fitted to the cross bars have stopped the drum moving side-to-side and shredding everything Very Happy

Steering guard worked well as far as I can tell without a post event inspection.

Fuel system nearly stopped us. All of a sudden we had no fuel pressure after the alternator got a wet belt. We cable tied the return shut and all was good, but it did mean we were at a very high 7 psi for SU carbs. I'm ordering a proper needle valve to go in the return line so we can 'adjust' out changes as they happen.

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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Tue Nov 12, 2013 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a swizz Sad New needle valve isn't a needle valve, but a plunger valve.
First I tried a lever-ball valve and it worked okay, but was very hard to set, with the slightest movement changing the pressure a lot!
So I ordered this new needle valve VNE04 from Beaumanor Engineering and fit that. Control is better, but not needle better, as a quarter turn is zero to full 7psi on my fuel gauge Shocked
So I strip said valve and see its a plunger inside, not a needle, which kind of explains everything. So they are going to look and see if the two identically described valves on their site are different inside. Which is the main advantage of using them, as they are a helpful bunch Very Happy
(hell of a range of fittings and bits as well)


Despite this-and-that it has been a very good year for the beast. Brake downs were typically bent-stuff, which is normal, and even the fuel pump dropping out was entertaining Razz

To date for 2013, Team Idris has done;
3 marshallings (at 2 comps and a winch challenge)
3 Winch challenges (LRS series of 6)
1 Trial (might fit another in yet).

'lumpy' costs were the £425 from Gwyn for stuff to replace bent stuff, plus stuff to prevent more bent stuff and £400 for a new rear hydraulic winch. Still not a dirt cheap hobby (Dirt Rolling Eyes ) but doable Cool

A big thanks to Terry Winchman for supplying the tow motor + fuel for some of these outings.

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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 6:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Back onto the foot-fiddle brakes. Lever work is now in, with the pipe work next.....



Here is the photo from the start of the year showing the pedals fitted in the clutch slot. (to save going back a page)


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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kind of worked.......
Love the idea of cutting brakes that leave your hands free to steer, or change gear and work the winches. And they feel okay to use without any "left foot refuses action" from my brain Smile

Insufficient pressure seems to be an issue again though. The clutch pedals were 5.5:1 and the old levers were more like 10:1 (before I moved the pivot holes). I begged as much leverage as I could from the situation, without a major fabrication exercise. This got me to 8:1, but the problem is that I need the CNC's 5/8 bore set, rather than the 3/4 set I have now. This was most of the problem all along, and really, a 1/2" bore set would have done very nicely! (time to sleeve them?)

I've had lots of good advice from people with solid solutions. Favourite is a second set of 4 pot callipers on some extra brackets. I'll have a real good look at that and maybe get some s/h adapter parts. The added weight isn't good, as I am trying to diet the other way Sad
Other one is to take the 2 pot units off and only run 4 pot. On trials I can see that being good. Get it up to speed and it sounds like a recipe for un-planned hand brake turns Shocked

No chance of getting it past Rosie, but I could fit an axel on the back that already takes 4 pot callipers, like a front axel, with HD shafts and CV's Razz

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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bracket Twist Rolling Eyes
I originally put a short brace-filler into the channel that the cylinders bolt to, but that wasn't enough to stop it moving vertically. A brace rod up to the bulkhead forced it to twist instead, so out came the fiddle brake bracket in the picture, to be cut apart. Then I replaced the channel with 2" box with big holes cut to get a socket onto the mount bolts. At least the stamped bracket was used again, but the whole thing is heavier? But it does have a lot of force on it Smile

While I've been thinking about the above and getting re-motivated I've been building geodesic bridging ladders. These replace the waffle mats in heavy clay. Unlike normal trailer ramps the rungs are structural. Not sure how we'll use them as they are trough shaped? Might use them the wrong way up? And no idea which end will be the bottom? I should have photo's soon so you can see how they are different to anything else Confused

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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bridging Ladders finally reached the point of photography Smile



I popped one under the back wheel and got 2mm of flex, and we think they would do 15mm before staying bent? So they ought to do the job Cool

Back To The Fuel System;

I've rummaged around the TEAM Idris stores for relief valves for the fuel system. I have a likely candidate in a stainless steel 1/4", so I'll try him.

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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 5:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stainless steel valve didn't work because the force on the little pin with 5psi of fuel pressure wasn't enough to overcome the internal seal. I'm going traditional with a 1/4" bsp tube, a ball and a spring next.
Next job is to make the threaded tube at work Smile

I've just about caught the rear RH wheel bearing in time before the seal really gave out. The bearings don't look like new, but they are proper Timkin, so they can stay. I think I even have a seal on stock from doing the front axel the other year !

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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got new Timken from Paddocks in the end and blue box calliper bolts. I'm sooo dragging this service interval out Smile
While in there I popped in a hard rubber disk/ring to fill the gap between stationary hub and the brake disk. I'm still aiming to keep clay out of places I don't want it Wink

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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2014 7:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Foot Fiddle brakes are very good. I was hoping it would be easy to steer with both hands and make sharp turns, which the set achieves. You can start the 'cut' before you reach full lock.
You need your foot on the correct one before you enter the turn if you want to avoid looking down. And if you forget it's auto you try and use one as a clutch Smile

This test was at Halfway-House trial with Shropshire Off Road Club Yesterday. A little leak on the expansion bottle and a bent front skid plate was all we could see.
I want it in the garage to check the wear on the main hydraulic pump asap. We wondered about a two stage pump so we could have a rear rad fan hyd drive. This would give the alternator an easy time.

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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2014 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The main pump is now in bits, as we didn't think the TypeR milemarker pulled as well at low engine rev as it first did years ago? And it is a cheap ass pump!
Also, a while back I saw the oil looked like it might have taken on some water. It's a big job to strip all the hoses out to drain them, so I tried a compressed air line on the pump-to-valveblock line. It worked a treat and was powerful enough to rotate the motors and evict the bad oil. It surprised me how much came out Shocked

This morning the trailer got it's new lights fitted Cool

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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote



The brand new hydraulic pump worked excellent at LRS4, but the alternator was over-volting so we only did half an hour Sad
There's two month until anything else, so I've stamped a new dash panel for 52mm and 62mm gauges. The slots are for capillary tubes to fit in without stripping the bulb end.

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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 5:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote



It just seemed too keen on alternators for a hydraulic winch machine? So this glass fibre duct diverts air to the alt intake. To got the form I wanted I used sponge sealing strip covered in tape so it would 'release' the resin. I'm also putting in some heat shield for the exhaust manifold on the RH bank.

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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Terry Winchman visited last night and he is as pleased as me with it. We get a good blast of air just behind the alternator and the foam strip just behind the fan is pushing the air onto the carbs better. I thought about "sticking" the tube onto the bonnet, but I went with 2 self tappers and a 4mm bolt.
To improve things more I'll put a sloping plate behind the alternator to shield the exhaust manifold. ( making a sort of cold pocket )

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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We had to rev it to 2400rpm at the trial last weekend to get the charge to start. Turns out the latest recon mirrelli needed more current to start! So while in the dash box changing the charge light I decide to tidy the wiring to make it all fit in better and is easier to work on. I put in over 5 hours and screwed the lid back.
It looks just the same as it did before I started Razz
No bling reward there then Laughing

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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Third at in class 3 today at LRS5 winch-challenge, (where the serious teams live) so very pleased with that Smile We drove it hard for four hours. I'd best give it a good check over Confused
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