Why are the MSA cocking about with winch challenge regs? But with the usual complete lack of common sense
What is it with my truck! It'll be a full re-con/new soon This summer I have had to buy a new seat, rear springs and a power steering pump. And you know by reading this thread its had a shed load of parts fitted already in the last few years
Joined: 24 Feb 2008 Odometer: 3372 Location: Staffordshire UK
Posted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 2:35 pm Post subject:
Its in and the wheels steer Hell of a belt scream though Could be oil or paint on the new pulley? The copper pipe is version three, and Terry does this for a living, so a real cow to line up!
Joined: 24 Feb 2008 Odometer: 3372 Location: Staffordshire UK
Posted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 2:54 pm Post subject:
As that suction tube (the one thats already started leaking while I was away on holiday) is so close to the exhaust manifold, I went to Millenium Bearings in Lichfield UK to see what they had in slightly longer 'A' belts. Because round here, carrying stock is a rare thing And they have stock, and had some belts, and some hens teeth, so I can tinker some more
I love shops like that. "man shopping". And they had tractor 3point link parts to stare at, and wonder, just maybe, if they would do for suspension points.......
Just as soon as I've finished gardening and thinking about garden railway extensions, I'm back in the garage
And nearly forgot to say, that I called in at Gwyn's and finally got myself a 90 steering damper to go with the sumo bracket thats been sitting pointlessly under the front since the TOR show at Stafford More photo's to come.......... __________________________________ https://m.youtube.com/channel/UC3l3zoaCabKrgBSULSV1YgA
Joined: 13 Feb 2009 Odometer: 7480 Location: bradford on avon (wiltshire)
Posted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 4:27 pm Post subject:
do you mean a joint like this if so then no i would not use them.i used one for a aframe joint and was ok but have seen a pic with them on a sj used as trailing arms and the tube had snaped in half,will see if i can find the pic.
Parrot, the picture in the link looks like bits of the suspension made from tractor top links were fine and it was another piece of tube welded to them that failed. From a distance it looks like just another case of poor design, particuarly the weld detail, causing premature failure. It certainly wouldn't be the first time its happened to welded radius arms.
I still wouldn't use tractor top links though. They are a rather basic specification, suitable for their intended purpose where a bit of slack isn't a problem. We have a some used ones at home with 1/8" play in the balls and none of them were a firm fit to start with. __________________________________ The Lord helps them as helps them selves
and the Lord help them caught helping there selves.
Joined: 24 Feb 2008 Odometer: 3372 Location: Staffordshire UK
Posted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 8:10 am Post subject:
Awesome picture . Gave me a Sunday morning grin!
What a ludicrously rubbish piece of home engineering. Thought process; "Gee, I'll replicate the heavy 'I' section tapered beam of a RRC radious arm, with a tractor top linc"
I'm enjoying home engineering now, before pilchards like that get it banned
Definate risk of clanky-ness with top link. But the top link is very strong as long as you keep the load end-on 'pin-to-pin'. I was looking more at the other ball, the one that goes into the quick release lift arm end.
The other day I was looking at the bolt in drop-pin-ball as well, with 50mm ball and threaded end. Trouble is, the ball is the easy bit to buy or make. Its the cup thats the problem. A cup that's maybe brass and adjustable for wear. And when its all drawn up and machined, is it just a lot easier to go buy the X-eng one, cause they've done all the faffing about for you and put a warranty on it? And it is very good
But lets be honest here. I'd probably spend £310 doing something ball-ish, and get hours of entertainment nobbing around
EDIT; Why doesnt the Xeng ball joint have a CV boot cover on it? Seems a shame to let mud in. Or maybe it would hold water in? __________________________________ https://m.youtube.com/channel/UC3l3zoaCabKrgBSULSV1YgA
Joined: 13 Feb 2009 Odometer: 7480 Location: bradford on avon (wiltshire)
Posted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 9:21 am Post subject:
i dont think the x joints let in mud,if you bump into him ask nick watt's what he thinks of them as hes running them on his vit challenge truck and talk to big patrol/SPAM zuk as he has one on the rear of his sj. __________________________________ http://www.bloodredoffroad.com/
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Joined: 24 Feb 2008 Odometer: 3372 Location: Staffordshire UK
Posted: Sat Sep 11, 2010 2:28 pm Post subject:
I've been struggling, as the 'high' damper kit for the RRC doesn't really work. It's close, but the drag link moves further than the track rod, so the damper can be bottomed out. So I got a 90 damper the other week, which is a bit longer and pin-thread, as opossed to thread/thread. I was pleased with the Gwyn Lewis sumo-bar bracket, (bought at 4x4 show months ago) but its for the RRC damper, or, a 90 damper drag link with ordinary ball joints, not the 90 damper & steering arm with ball joint and cranked eye-end of the RRC.
While under there today I realised the Gwyn bracket could be scallopped out with a gringer to sit over the existing rover drag link clamp. Basically removing two half-moons from it. The bracket is huge anyway, and would probably take the power of hydro assist!
The 90 damper sits the wrong way around, so the gaurd tube had to come off so it doesn't fill with mud. The other end isn't worth showing, being two virtical bits of 25x4mm flat welded onto the chassis outside to make a clevis for the 90 damper end. So heres a phot before all the gaurds went back on. Apologies for focus
Joined: 24 Feb 2008 Odometer: 3372 Location: Staffordshire UK
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2010 6:45 pm Post subject:
Anyone know any landy breakers in France?
Or any left hand drive country breakers?
I am collecting bits for the winter rebuild, to include a re-work of the front axel. I need a right-hand swivel housing, from a left hand drive RRC or Mrk1 disco. Then any future change to hydro-steer will be an 'external afair'
Joined: 13 Feb 2009 Odometer: 7480 Location: bradford on avon (wiltshire)
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2010 7:01 pm Post subject:
teamidris wrote:
Anyone know any landy breakers in France?
Or any left hand drive country breakers?
I am collecting bits for the winter rebuild, to include a re-work of the front axel. I need a right-hand swivel housing, from a left hand drive RRC or Mrk1 disco. Then any future change to hydro-steer will be an 'external afair'
America has the right language, but postage may be prohibative due to distance, where as France is next door by comparison
just rang a mate who works on landroaver's and he said you can get left hand drive parts over here new and as you know lr bits are cheap anyway __________________________________ http://www.bloodredoffroad.com/
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Joined: 24 Feb 2008 Odometer: 3372 Location: Staffordshire UK
Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 6:11 pm Post subject:
Just looked on Craddocks as he's the only one I havn't tried? And if it were available, it would be nasty (over £200). I really think its S/H or nothing............. __________________________________ https://m.youtube.com/channel/UC3l3zoaCabKrgBSULSV1YgA
Joined: 13 Feb 2009 Odometer: 7480 Location: bradford on avon (wiltshire)
Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 6:31 pm Post subject:
teamidris wrote:
Just looked on Craddocks as he's the only one I havn't tried? And if it were available, it would be nasty (over £200). I really think its S/H or nothing.............
have you got a part no and i will see what my mate says __________________________________ http://www.bloodredoffroad.com/
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Joined: 24 Feb 2008 Odometer: 3372 Location: Staffordshire UK
Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 6:51 pm Post subject:
No, I havn't even a manual But there is so little left, what manual would I get )
But my target part is pre 1985 (10 spline), left hand drive. Cradocks says the other side (LH) is FTC2527, which could be a Rover number? __________________________________ https://m.youtube.com/channel/UC3l3zoaCabKrgBSULSV1YgA
Joined: 13 Feb 2009 Odometer: 7480 Location: bradford on avon (wiltshire)
Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 6:54 pm Post subject:
teamidris wrote:
No, I havn't even a manual But there is so little left, what manual would I get )
But my target part is pre 1985 (10 spline), left hand drive. Cradocks says the other side (LH) is FTC2527, which could be a Rover number?
have you got a pic of the part you want as that might help him __________________________________ http://www.bloodredoffroad.com/
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Joined: 24 Feb 2008 Odometer: 3372 Location: Staffordshire UK
Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2010 11:29 am Post subject:
Friday is 'chase the part' day. And unless there is one hiding in someones garage, there isn't one anywhere, not even dunsfold
But He kindly gave me a number FTC 5298, and its available from Stafford Landrover at £161.61 new. Which quite honestly, unless one comes up much cheaper, (like £50) it isn't worth fannying around
I am suprised it was that cheap! Honestly I was expecting 250 to 300 at least. And maybe 160 is a bit much for a 'future proof', but imagine it, no seized in seal bolts
If your wondering why I'm going straight from entries on 'steering damper' to 'hydro steer', it's the route comonly taken, to spend twice as much on the truck as is necessary, instead of building it properly in the first place __________________________________ https://m.youtube.com/channel/UC3l3zoaCabKrgBSULSV1YgA
Joined: 06 Mar 2005 Odometer: 2903 Location: Somewhere
Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2010 1:42 pm Post subject:
I got a sliding window catch from them a while ago, even though I order the wrong one and i did get a refund.
Had no issues with them. __________________________________ Thanks - John
try http://www.carsforsalenormandy.com/ i'll be over there in december if you need anything? you might find that a lot of landy's in france are imported from thr UK though!
Joined: 24 Feb 2008 Odometer: 3372 Location: Staffordshire UK
Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2010 3:56 pm Post subject:
I've written and asked. Then if anyone else wants one, and finds this thread, carsforsalenormandy might proove very usefull.
France sure has a lot of UK stuff Our Fiesta's just retired to the south of France. But I also know 4x4's fetch more in France, so maybe the parts do too?
Joined: 13 Feb 2009 Odometer: 7480 Location: bradford on avon (wiltshire)
Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2010 4:05 pm Post subject:
my mate has just got back to me and said it would be about £130+vat as its genuine only but with p and p on top its about the same as you can get it. __________________________________ http://www.bloodredoffroad.com/
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Joined: 24 Feb 2008 Odometer: 3372 Location: Staffordshire UK
Posted: Mon Oct 04, 2010 6:05 pm Post subject:
Fans
My bonnet fan is soooo noisy! I tried foam covering, and wasted an hour. I don't need full fan in the winter, so then I tried a wire wound resister, and instant success
I already run a Kenlow resistor for the rear fan, which is only set to full speed for challenge events. I think throttling back electric fans is something I will be using more often And I=V/R means I'm saving battery! __________________________________ https://m.youtube.com/channel/UC3l3zoaCabKrgBSULSV1YgA
Joined: 07 Nov 2007 Odometer: 753 Location: Taunton, Somerset, UK
Posted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 7:14 am Post subject:
teamidris wrote:
That looks a good deal. Anyone used them before?
Because I could set that site up from here, and I like to know where to send the death threats if I don't get delivery
i've ordered from them before, only some ball joint boots, was suprised as came in a nice little branded box with there logo on , seamed very professional.
i'm not convinced about that part number, i thought this was more along the lines of what you said your looking for
http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/14...TC5298&page=1 __________________________________ If you make it idiot proof...
They will make a better idiot!
Joined: 24 Feb 2008 Odometer: 3372 Location: Staffordshire UK
Posted: Sat Oct 16, 2010 10:46 am Post subject:
I can't find any on .co.uk, only on .com, and the shipping is 90 dollars, so might as well buy new UK as US one. Have you a link for the ones you spotted?
Just took the belt pulley off the beast and beat the RH wing back into shape. I think the pulley was flexing under load, dropping the tension. I'm now on the hunt for a new 3" idler pulley, but have some 10 x 25mm bearings incase that proves expensive. (Cause somtimes a £20 pulley mysteriously gains 400% because I pay then, and not in 30 days Never have figured that one out )
Did the steering damper work? I suppose a part that works, is a part you don't notice, and I didn't notice any steering kick back, so I guess it did
There was much driving over fallen trees, so well worth fitting!
EDIT; I've had a quick weld at the idler to firm it up. Grabing the belt shows some flex in the pump mount, so thats next for a bit more metal. I used two of the three bolt positions on the new style pump, and that seems to have been a bit optomistic __________________________________ https://m.youtube.com/channel/UC3l3zoaCabKrgBSULSV1YgA
Joined: 24 Feb 2008 Odometer: 3372 Location: Staffordshire UK
Posted: Sat Oct 16, 2010 6:39 pm Post subject:
Oooh, tough one. £122 for S/H or £161 for new......? Gives some idea of how rare they are. I've paid less for good axels And there's nothing else in there I want like ball, shaft or CV
I think I'm going to try for a price ask Monday. They can always tell me to *off
Plus I still have time, as my diff man is off ill. And winter strip won't begin until December.
Thanks for the lead
Edit; Have to smile at optomism of £110 for LH swivel off LHD truck. Normal RHD one would do on left And there are a pair on the bay as I write with 9 mins to go, rebuilt, C/W Zeus pistons not getting past £31 ! __________________________________ https://m.youtube.com/channel/UC3l3zoaCabKrgBSULSV1YgA
Joined: 24 Feb 2008 Odometer: 3372 Location: Staffordshire UK
Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 4:10 pm Post subject:
Right then... Don't do below, its complete cock
Firstly, thats a good thick back plate on the diesel power steering pump, so just use it as it was intended, and bolt it with 3 M8 bolts to some plate of frame. Use its adjustment slides like normal.
That idler pulley on the tension side of the belt is a bad idea. It was always a bad idea. If you have an idler pulley put it on the the slack side. Better still, don't have one at all. If you engineered yourself into a corner, then re-engineer so your not
Spend some quality time on the project. I got some in today, and it now takes two standard RRC classic fan belts for both fan and steering pump (Photo's to follow)
Basically, struck off from that brown 1" brace with a mount frame, putting the belt either side of it. So to change the belts you have to disconect the winch hydraulic pump drive, and that stay
Afterall, I never claimed I came up with a perfect solution today, just that the one in the picture was rubbish, and now resides in my scrap bucket __________________________________ https://m.youtube.com/channel/UC3l3zoaCabKrgBSULSV1YgA
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