shiny bits and big tyres i think santa came early to your house.
Im liking the motor already its going to be waaaay cool when its done. __________________________________ Everybody welcome to trials club, visit www.ncortc.com every third sunday of the month
Joined: 07 Nov 2007 Odometer: 753 Location: Taunton, Somerset, UK
Posted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 10:25 pm Post subject:
it is going black, probally a matt on the body and gloss hammerite smooth on the cage , and shiney aluminium for the switch consoles inside __________________________________ If you make it idiot proof...
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Joined: 07 Nov 2007 Odometer: 753 Location: Taunton, Somerset, UK
Posted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 10:43 pm Post subject:
not got much more done, started knocking up the brackets that weld to the sills to bolt onto the chassi body mounts pic's soon , but had a slight development in that i got offered another engine
it's a 3.5 EFi auto same as mine, the guy has rebuilt it with all new internals on the top end , only thing thats a shame is that he didn't clean and degrease the block and heads. so we'll bolt on my old efi inlet and exhausts and give it a good clean up and paint, then when we have some spare time and ££ will rebuild mine as a spare
__________________________________ If you make it idiot proof...
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Joined: 07 Nov 2007 Odometer: 753 Location: Taunton, Somerset, UK
Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 10:16 pm Post subject:
Ok been busy making the mounting brackets that will mate the sills to the body outriggers, these will also serve the purpose of lifting the body another 2”, to allow us room to construct the floor as the outriggers drop below the top of the chassis, these bracket’s raise the base of the sills almost to chassis top height. Neil was off to a xmas party tonite, so after helping me get started he dived off and I got to work welding the brackets to the sills.
I’ll let the pictures do the talking
the plan is to tap some squares of 8mm steel we have which will sit in place inside the brackets, then a bead of weld to hold in place, then the ends will be capped over with a small hole left to fill with waxoil before plugging up __________________________________ If you make it idiot proof...
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Joined: 07 Nov 2007 Odometer: 753 Location: Taunton, Somerset, UK
Posted: Fri Dec 25, 2009 12:28 pm Post subject:
ok, ive been busy over the last couple of days doing work on the truck, have also got a few more bit's n bobs
firstly a peli 1500 case, rugged and waterproof , i'm going to modifying this and installing the dock for my tablet pc along with power and other electics inside, i'll be cutting a window into the front so we can see the screen whilst keeping the laptop safe, looks like there will be enough room to install a holder for my iphone which alsso has a digital inclinometer installed , this case will have brackets fitted to the back to mount it and will be replacing the left hand side of the dash/glove box
next on the line is a set of staun tyre deflators, I think these are self explanatory, I quick test shows they work well, though lower air pressure isn't greatly noticeable as the truck is nowhere near weight yet.
__________________________________ If you make it idiot proof...
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Joined: 07 Nov 2007 Odometer: 753 Location: Taunton, Somerset, UK
Posted: Fri Dec 25, 2009 12:29 pm Post subject:
Well, all the bars are out now and the body is bolted down to the chassis! this obviously isn't final as once the floor is all finished the body will come back off so the chassis can be stripped of all running gear and rubbed back and painted. Doors are back on atm and dash/column are bolted in, so we can get the placing of the seats right.
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Joined: 07 Nov 2007 Odometer: 753 Location: Taunton, Somerset, UK
Posted: Fri Dec 25, 2009 12:30 pm Post subject:
Well, who’s every wondered what exactly is inside the solenoid pack on a T-max outback winch (the one with wireless), I’ve dismantled mine as a couple of the wires had snagged and needed replacing, and I wanted to extend the cables so I’m going to remount the solenoid and wireless receiver inside a waterproof enclosure along with some longer heaver gauge wiring
These are the seat bases we’ve made up, these are a two piece set that will allow the seat to be removed and access to the batterys, there will be one battery either side, one for winching and aux lighting and electrics and one for main lighting and starting, each will be charged from it’s own alternator.
Finally another bargain from the bay one £30 nato hitch
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Joined: 07 Nov 2007 Odometer: 753 Location: Taunton, Somerset, UK
Posted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 12:46 am Post subject:
Well what better way to spend boxing day then messing with the truck, got a chance to get it outside and get some decent pic’s of the truck from different angles
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Joined: 07 Nov 2007 Odometer: 753 Location: Taunton, Somerset, UK
Posted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 12:47 am Post subject:
Once we’d finished playing, we set to work doing more work on the seat bases, these will also act as battery boxes. We did have to make a slight modification to the passenger side box as we felt it was a little to close to the difflock/high/low selector unit and could possibly knock, more pic’s of this mod tomoro.
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Joined: 07 Nov 2007 Odometer: 753 Location: Taunton, Somerset, UK
Posted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 4:08 pm Post subject:
Mook wrote:
blimey! when is the back of the chassi comin off?
It's not coming off!
the concept is to build a decent truck whilst keeping the chassis standard, the tubular bed that will be building for the back will be highert han the chassis and provide protection for the LPG tanks.
I don't want to have the hassle or cost of taking an IVA test, it clearly lists in the guidelines than any cutting or moddifyig of the chassis will automatically require te vehicle to be tested
therfore in order to keep my truck 100% legal I have opted not to cut or mod the chassis, and as an extra precaution were followig the IVA test handbook to make sure all the fixtures a fittings fall within the legal limits.
Another reason fo keeping the rear was to move the existing LPG tanks an install a third to increase the range as I'd like to be able to tak long trips ie: a weekend in Wales. Without having to find a gas station every five minutes. Also this will allow me to run one of my existing tanks as a switchable reserve as te truck will be run 100% on LPG
I know many would like to see the rear removed but it's no going to happen on this build. But Im hoping maybe later next year to start buildig a full challenge spec truck, this current one is my
play toy __________________________________ If you make it idiot proof...
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Joined: 07 Nov 2007 Odometer: 753 Location: Taunton, Somerset, UK
Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 11:48 pm Post subject:
Ok, well started work on the foot wells, firstly though we need to move the truck out of the workshop to have a reorganize, so decided the first thing to do was to sort the steering linkage to make moving the truck easier, although it’s possible without, it’s a lot easier with a steering wheel. Plus it meant I could sit in and drive it around the yard with Neil pushing me with the vit
Well once we’d finished playing we got to work and started by re-moving what was left of the original foot wells
Then we set to work welding the new framing into place, please note though the sills will be chopped back to match once the foot wells are finished
Later we’d moved the truck out, to swap cars about when a mate turned up in his 90, so couldn’t resist the opportunity to snap a pic
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Excellent work but isn't it going to be incredibly heavy? __________________________________ Zuk·en·stein - A monster made from parts of cadavers and brought to life by the power of an electrical charge.
What the fool cannot understand he laughs at, thinking that by his laughter he shows superiority instead of latent idiocy.
Joined: 07 Nov 2007 Odometer: 753 Location: Taunton, Somerset, UK
Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 4:31 pm Post subject:
It shouldn't be to heavy the floor is made from hollow box and will be plated with alloy checker plate. So can't see it'll be any heavier than the original steel floor covered in sound deadening and carpet, then bear in mind been a disco the floor is normally waterlogged the floor of the disco with bulkhead weighed in at 360kgs. Once the truck is done I'll try and get it weighed on a weighbridge to compare to the original weights.... Watch this space.
Oh and at the moment the shell only takes two of us to lift! __________________________________ If you make it idiot proof...
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Joined: 29 Jan 2008 Odometer: 387 Location: Sunny snowy rain devon and thats just today
Posted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 10:55 pm Post subject:
Don't take this the wrong way but When you made the side rail how come you went for 2 pieces of box that big one piece that size would have been stronger than the chassie rail it does seem a little OTT
I wish i had the time to build my own truck its been 4 years since i sold my 80 inch trialer and im really missing it now
Joined: 07 Nov 2007 Odometer: 753 Location: Taunton, Somerset, UK
Posted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 12:36 am Post subject:
fixit wrote:
Don't take this the wrong way but When you made the side rail how come you went for 2 pieces of box that big one piece that size would have been stronger than the chassie rail it does seem a little OTT
I wish i had the time to build my own truck its been 4 years since i sold my 80 inch trialer and im really missing it now
the sills have deliberately been made wide, this is to allow enough room to bring the external cage down onto, and to make life easier to mount the body as the chassis outriggers only just come to the inner edge of the sill, the original sills were far past any form of repair, hence why the mountings welded under the sills come inboard. it is a bit OTT but i'm a big fan of British over engineering this truck is going to be built to last! the floor framing is mostly in (just about to post update) and even with the doors on the two of us can still lift the body which was a struggle without the doors but with the original floor! it's surprising how much weight all the sound deadening actually adds. __________________________________ If you make it idiot proof...
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Joined: 07 Nov 2007 Odometer: 753 Location: Taunton, Somerset, UK
Posted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 12:38 am Post subject:
Been quite busy over last week, I’ve picked up some more goodies for the build and we’ve constructed the floor and tunnel and have started on the rear arches
Firstly I’ve brought a Terrafirma TF835 RTC dampener, and David at Llama 4x4 supplied me with a rather nice set of heavy duty mounting for it.
Oil cooler for the auto box
After talking with David I decided to get a set of castor correction bushes, I got these from super pro as we’re now one of their suppliers.
Although not for use as such in the build, a bargain purchase via eBay at only £12 and 6 miles away, a sankey Nato coupling to go with my Nato pintle hitch for a later trailer build …. Watch this space.
First up with the arches was to find out the maximum space the wheel would occupy, to achieve this we removed the spring from one side and jacked the axle on that side until the opposite wheel has reached full travel, this took a few attempts cutting more away each time, after we had found full travel we took the body back a bit further to be safe.
__________________________________ If you make it idiot proof...
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Joined: 07 Nov 2007 Odometer: 753 Location: Taunton, Somerset, UK
Posted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 12:38 am Post subject:
We then have added in some 25mm box to form the inner wheel arches, to allow for full travel these have taken up more floor space than first thought, so now we are looking at only having two seats and using the rear to carry equipment.
We started the tunnel from the rear, L angle was attached to underside of seat boxes, this is to allow the box lid to sit on whist still allowing the tunnel to firmly attach with the floor to provide structural strength and rigidity. We have then worked forward, constructing both the tunnel and floor as we go, tacking in at first until we are happy with the outcome, it’s very much a case of trial and error but it’s much better to get it right now then decide to make changes later.
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Joined: 07 Nov 2007 Odometer: 753 Location: Taunton, Somerset, UK
Posted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 12:51 am Post subject:
the spring is succured at both end's the idea been that it both compresses and stretches to help the steering center with bigger tyres on, it's a newish product, but simular to that used by the yota boys. i thought i'd give it a go, worse case i don't get on with it and i can remove the spring and use it as a normal dampener __________________________________ If you make it idiot proof...
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Joined: 07 Nov 2007 Odometer: 753 Location: Taunton, Somerset, UK
Posted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 9:33 am Post subject:
i'll give mine a measure later, easy enough to get brackets __________________________________ If you make it idiot proof...
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Joined: 07 Nov 2007 Odometer: 753 Location: Taunton, Somerset, UK
Posted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 11:53 pm Post subject:
Ok, well been busy stripping down the chassis, I started by removing PAS system and exhaust downpipes, then removed the engine and box. Then onto removing steering box, and then finally with the chassis supported by stands we undone the radius and trailing arm nuts and pulled the axles from under the chassis. I was very happy to find all the various bolts had copper grease on them where they passed through bushes, this meant I had no trouble what so ever dismantling it
We also took some time (well Shell did ) to tidy up the workshop and organize all the parts I had amassed, these are now all nicely stacked on some new shelving.
The plan now is to get the chassis over to a local firm for shotblasting, hopefully Friday then to get it painted up and built up with all the new suspension parts and the cleaned and painted axles. __________________________________ If you make it idiot proof...
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Joined: 07 Nov 2007 Odometer: 753 Location: Taunton, Somerset, UK
Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 11:47 pm Post subject:
On Thursday I took the chassis over to Blackbull engineering in Bridgwater who shot blasted it for me and . it came up really well except for a couple of small holes that appeared on the capping at the end of the center x-member.
We started by repairing the damaged section followed a nice heavy coat of red oxide primer, then a coating of grey stonechip, then a coat of black paint. The pictures below show the whole process from start to finish, for the whole chassis and for the problem area.
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