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just been to see one....advice please

 
 
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mrman
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 17 Feb 2003
Odometer: 4307
Location: Bridgend - South Wales


1993 Mitsubishi Pajero

PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 10:40 pm    Post subject: just been to see one....advice please Reply with quote

I went to see a 404 today.....not sure if the owner posts on here !

it's 1963 2.2l I'm told it has 4 forward gears, butI have read they have 6.

These vehicles do require an MoT dont they ?

Can the MoT be done by a local MoT tester or does it have to go to a HGV place? As this one does not have an MoT.

there seem to be some electrical gremlins and neither wiper works ?
Expensive to replace?

And lastly - what should I be looking to pay for one without an MoT ?

£500-£1000?
£1000-£1500?
£1500 - £2000?
£2000 - £2500?
£2500+ ?



It has a rear body and Canvas no PTO

Many thanks

Dave
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dxmedia
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 10 Dec 2008
Odometer: 2185




PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2009 6:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

4 forward road gears, and to the left 2 off road gears. Reverse can only be selected with the main gear leaver in the offroad position. The gate between 'low' and 'high' can be a little tricky to get past.

If the mog has been registered as a tractor then yes they are MOT exempt. There's also MOT exempt classifications for some old military stuff, but all depends on the V5 and the classifications in that - Check before you buy and all that.

They weigh 3 tonne give or take, so if your local garage is set up for doing heavy stuff, then if it needs an MOT, yes they can do it. My local one can, I've taken 7.5 tonners (PLG) in for MOT's with them before.

Ahh electrical gremlins - if, when you've sorted yours you fancy coming and sorting mine it would be appreciated Laughing


I've only just bought mine, and asked on here about what to look for when buying and shaggy (Jim) wrote this :-

Shaggy wrote:

Hi fella,

- Cabs all rot in normal, visible places (there's not much hidden). There is a structural cross member across the bottom of the cab (with a structural "n" over the PTO hoop). Check that. The front cab mount is in the middle of this.

- Engines are pretty much bombproof (ours ran with a broken valve spring for god knows how long). But the military ignition can degrade, the wires are high resistance and can really screw with things. Check the radiator - expensive.

- Fuel system becomes a weakness with age, just due to crap in the system.

- Clutch and thrust bearing. THE BIG ONE! the gearbox and engine are suspended, and the axle forces go through the gearbox (via the torque tubes). This means dicking with the clutch is a pain. Two real issues.
-- If the clutch has been replaced, it may have been put on the wrong way round, because the new ones are different. If this happens the clutch plate fingers rub and it eventually breaks. Don't know how to diagnose, but be wary of clutch noises.
-- The throw out bearing can wear out and replacing that is so much of a pain, most people do the clutch as well (the bearing is 7 euros!). There is an inspection plate on top of the bellhousing, you have to remove the dog house cover to see it.

- Your other main worry are oil seals. A mog has 7 gearboxes (transmission, 2 * diffs, 4 * hub gears) which means a lot of seals.
-- Axle output seals are easy to diagnose and not the end of the world (although they can be), you can see them leak.
--Transmission output is a bad one - the oil leaks down the torque tubes and into the diff, contaminating it with non hypoid oil. Hard to diagnose, hard to fix. Check the tranny oil level (back passenger side of tranny).
-- Diffs can leak out into the axle, and into the hubs. Hard to spot.
Check the oil fillers for each gearbox, check there's oil at the top, and that it's OK.

Tranny might be toast, might not be. Get it fast enough to change all gears. I have to double declutch 6th until it is warm. Get them to show you how it works. There are many things that can be wrong (blocked passages, wrong oil, routine overheating). They are noisy, but not insanely so.

Brakes. Handbrakes are easy if the rest work. If it stops quickly and straight, it's probably OK! Check it rolls well - I am amazed by how easy they are to push in neutral. Check the flexible hoses (to front brakes, and between gearbox and torque tubes) as a reasonable indication of general care.

There's not that much other rubber on the mog, expect dampers to be toast, but look at the ball/socket joints on the various steering parts, they're hard to change.

If you can run it on the road, it should do 85kph on the flat cold, and 95-100kph when warm (all those gearboxes) with 10.5 tyres.

Come over one night and look at ours - it'll make much more sense.

jim



As for what it's worth, depends on the condition more than anything IMO. If you find a really mint one sensibly priced and work back from there with parts and time to work out what the one your looking at is worth.

Without PTO, but does have canvass on the back (couple of hundred quid to buy new if in good condition), MOT's not an issue since you should take into concideration the condition of the vehicle rather than if it's got a bit of paper (old vehicles can pass MOT's very easliy)

I'd personally say between £750 and £1250 would be a good price, much over £1500 and you can get another one in the same condition for less.

Saying that, if I knew then how much I'd laugh every time I took the mog out offroad I'd probably have been willing to pay a little more Wink

Just my £0.02 worth.
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