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Sankey Trek Trailer
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Post new topic   Reply to topic    Difflock Forum Index -> 4x4s -> Gear, Equipment and Vehicle Preparation
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jonkem
Just got MTs


Joined: 25 Sep 2007
Odometer: 389
Location: Bedfordshire, UK


1989 Isuzu Trooper

PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2009 8:37 pm    Post subject: Sankey Trek Trailer Reply with quote

I thought I'd bore you all with some excerts from my ongoing trailer build Very Happy

You're not being forced to read it but if you do, constructive comments are welcome and I might even act on some Laughing

I've made lots of mistakes and back tracked frequently but i'm pretty happy with it now that it's nearing completion........

This was & still is my inspiration that I found on a US trailer manufacturers website. There aren't any more detailed or close-up pics to be found so I have no idea of the technical specs!


After pricing lots of options for running gear I decided to start with a Sankey 3/4 and eventually found this beauty for not very much money.


This was mistake number 1. It was described as a wide track and like a mug I fell for it becasue it had a tailgate and looked huge when I went to pick it up.
It turns out to be a 1962 narrow track Embarassed but I decide to press on regardless and find a way to overcome the problems this will cause me.

A couple of hours with the grinder revealed a very sound chassis that had been painted with some massively thick underseal that had worked very well to prevent almost 100% of any rust ingress.


I then stripped the coupling off as it was close to being siezed and while cleaning the shaft noticed some signs of stress so decided to replace it.
Mistake number 2!
The original hitch was a sprung type and it turned out to be impossible to source an identical one that would match up to the brake actuator. So I decided to change it to the slightly later damped one and sort the brake problem afterwards.

This meant altering the front of the front end of the A frame because the later ones are much wider.

Whilst chopping the front end up I decided to slim it down a bit, not just to reduce nose weight but stop it being so square & ugly!


To make up the difference in the coupling length so that it would still operate the brakes, I made up a push rod and support tube. the rod uses the original adjuster threads in the coupling and the adjuster then moves to the back. It works perfectly but lining the support tube up was a little tricky!


I also decided (after lots of discussion on difflock) to sort a breakaway cable and be certain that I was legal. It was pretty simple in the end and works so easily even pulling it by hand.


All the running gear was stripped and assessed and basically everything that needed sorting was done. The leaves were seperated, cleaned & greased. Shocks replaced with genuine ones. Shoes had to be re-lined because nobody could identify them, adjusters and spreaders ere stripped & cleaned and found to be in excellent order once they were un-siezed!


Then came mistake number 3! I decided that despite what I had thought all along and what everyone had told me, I wanted Toyota compatible wheels so i'd always have plenty of spares for the car or trailer "just in case".

Even though there is quite a big difference between the Land Rover and Toyota wheel stud PCDs, whatever position you tried to accomodate the 2 different patterns, 2 studs would clash meaning that adaptor spacers couldn't be made. There are rumours that somebody does make them but having seen it plotted by a CNC machine, it isn't gonna happen.

What I came up with after 2 weeks of struggle, with the help of a local engineering firm, was spacers with studs on both sides. This means that you can assemble the spacer onto the LR hub with nuts on the inside while the Jap 6 stud bolts onto the outside. You can see the overlap on 2 of the studs.

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jonkem
Just got MTs


Joined: 25 Sep 2007
Odometer: 389
Location: Bedfordshire, UK


1989 Isuzu Trooper

PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2009 8:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is the spacer assembled to the hub & drum, viewed from inside.



A by product of the PCD change is that I could also spec the spacer thickness and start to make up the difference in the track width between the trailer and my 70 series.

I guessed 35mm was about right for using the Shogun rims and 10.50 tyres I'd sourced and it turned out to be pretty close. The trailer track is no more than 50mm narrower than the car Smile

Unfortunately my camera phone got a bit touchy after being exposed to all the grinding & welding that went into the main framework of the body so there aren't any pics showing the skeleton but it is mostly 40 x 40 box & 25 x 25 angle. There was no particular engineering reason for using this other than I can get it cheaply and it seems to be man enough and not too heavy!

The next pic will jump forward to when the 1st ally panel went on but that'll have to wait for a day or so.
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Jimmy
Just got MTs


Joined: 01 Nov 2006
Odometer: 307
Location: Wirral, Cheshire


1992 Toyota Landcruiser

PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2009 9:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks and sounds good so far, I'm interested in seeing how it turns out. Personally I would have sourced a surf axle or something to throw under it rather than machine spacers as the extra weight from the diff would also lower the centre of gravity making it nicer to tow anyway. That said, those spacers look like a pretty damn good solution. What's the trailer's overall design like? I was looking at some of the aussie camping trailers when I was down under and the guys over there really do pack alot into them.
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YotaDave
Articulating


Joined: 12 Nov 2007
Odometer: 958
Location: Bristol


1994 Toyota Landcruiser

PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2009 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oooh! Im very interested in this, seems we have both had the same idea. This is exactly what I am planning to do as soon as I can find a Sankey for the right price.

I agree with Jimmy too about the axle. Im thinking of finding a Jap 6 stud axle to replace the Sankey axle by cutting the axle tube and diff housing off and welding a new tube in.

Keep up the good work, it looking great. Ill be keeping an eye on this thread for sure. Smile

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Dave (the Young Fart)
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jonkem
Just got MTs


Joined: 25 Sep 2007
Odometer: 389
Location: Bedfordshire, UK


1989 Isuzu Trooper

PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2009 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your both 100% spot-on about the axle but apart from the fact that I didn't even consider it Embarassed I would then have had to deal with designing a brake set-up to work with either the existing rod actuators or a Bowden cable arrangement.

This is now a couple of weeks down the line......

90% of the welding done and I finally got hold of some reclaimed ally sheet. F***, Ally is expensive Shocked 3mm treadplate for the floor and 2mm flat plate for the sides. I've still got a bit more to source but I'm resisting buying new because of the price tag.
Both were stuck with Tiger Seal and then rivetted. 5mm for the floor and 4mm for the sides. I decided on a satin black chassis and Toyota blue body to match the Cruiser.


The Shogun wheels (£15 for 5 Very Happy ) just had a quick sand and some cellulose to make them a bit tidier, then some Avon ATs.

Working out the hitch height was the next mistake that needed a workaround! I'd measured up and decided that 700mm was about the max for the car so I could still open the back door above the nato hook. As I had already remade the front of the A frame to suit the new coupling I had to go for 31 10.50 15s for the trailer to keep to the 700mm.

What I should have done originally was to lower the head so I could use 33s like the car. This would have meant a lot more work re-positioning the brake actuators but would have been worth it. i would definitely do this if I build another one in the future and probably aim for a 550mm hitch height so it is easier to use with other cars.
I decided instead that if push came to shove I'd take 2 wheels from the trailer to fit on either axle of the car rather than just one. I'm sure that with 5 x 33s and 3 x 31s I can get to where tyres are repairable!

As in the inspiration pic, I made a swingaway spare wheel carrier. All with reclaimed pipe and some stainless ball bearing door hinges. I let the hinges into the box section to keep it a bit tidier. It's done this way to save money, it works very well but buying a different hinge would have saved a lot of welding!

You can see the mess on the back of the chassis on this pic. It took a long time to decide what to do with it after a previous owner had "welded" tailgate hinges. It's still not 100% resolved but it's flat and painted now.

This was quite a big day! I got a local firm to bend me some mudguards from 3mm ally treadplate. They are rivetted and tiger sealed on the 3 inside flanges. They are easily strong enough to stand on if needed and will cope with having jerry can holders etc fixed to them. My idea is to use them for part of the side structure rather than adding more steel.


Tail lights are Radex 6 way units and I've fitted Rubberlite front marker lamps. The Rubberlites are way too big for the job but they were very cheap and as on all my cars I love the quality! The spare wheel carrier was robbed form my Trooper and needs straightening to suit the mounting angle of the swingaway.


The main body area is huge. 1800 long, 1000 wide and 600mm high (all internal measures) and this presents a problem of access once the tent is fitted. I mean that you can't reach anywhere near the front when going through the drop down tailgate unless you unload everything and climb in!

What I've decided to do is add a bulkhead and provide side doors at the front. One side will certainly house a small fridge and so far I'm undecided about the other side.

The top cover for the body is being bent at the moment. It is in one piece of 3mm treadplate turned down on 3 sides. As with everything else it will be stuck and rivetted. Totally waterproof, standable etc etc. On top of that, I have made a frame that looks something like a roof rack to hold the tent above the trailer top 100mm.

The frame tapers out at the top to match the 1200mm width of the folded tent and also allows air to pass under the tent. I only tapered it because I though it looked a bit nicer than having straight sides (vanity!). Last week I couldn't resist resting it all on top despite not having the body roof in place!

Pic to follow....
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jonkem
Just got MTs


Joined: 25 Sep 2007
Odometer: 389
Location: Bedfordshire, UK


1989 Isuzu Trooper

PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2009 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A couple of views of the tent fitting test. I just sat around for an hour looking at it and smiling Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes Rather pathetic when I think how many times i'd measured everything, I was still surprised that it went together!
You can just about see the tent mounting frame under the skirt, this is far more visible when the tent is folded with it's cover on.


The tent will finally sit about 25mm higher because of the trailer lid and the ally channels that are used to fit it. The final folded top height is just above the bottom of the Cruisers back window which was exactly what I wanted so it can be seen from the mirror but isn't too odstructive to the rearview.


Another mistake can be spotted in these pics. The swingaway hinge frame was way too big and had to be cut back to stop it hitting the tail light. With hindsight this could have been made 1/2 that height if more attention was paid to getting enough strength to the hinge post on the trailer.

This is when I hitched it and drove it for the 1st time. The idea was to check the brakes under working conditions and also see how the hitch height worked.

The trailer looks tiny in this pic! It is almost the size of a small car so it's probably that the Cruiser that's big!

I'm very happy with the ride height & it should be virtually level once the trailer is fully loaded. You can see the problem with the spare wheel carrier but thats just a 40mm cut and weld!

The nose weight is currently almost neutral, just about 3kg, with the tent & spare wheel fitted. the weight distribution figures are loosely filed in my head and fingers crossed I'll get about 25 - 30kg of noseweight when it's loaded up.

It is of course quite bouncy as it stands, it is afterall designed to have a 3/4 ton load on top of the 400kg ULW but in reality Sankeys are built to take huge weights over any ground so i might end up needing to lighten the springs a bit.

As in the inspiration pic the areas between the mudguards and frame extensions can hold 40Ltr of fuel, 40Ltr of water, battery box & tool box/wheel clamp box. I probably won't fit all of that all the time and haven't decided on a configuration but the capacity is there and is a lot of ballast that can be moved to suit the handling of the trailer and the needs of the trip.

I've intentionally kept the top of the spare wheel below the tent fitting height which means that the tent can be fitted to open on either side as well as over the back end.
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northumberlad
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PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2009 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

that looks great, top job.
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Jimmy
Just got MTs


Joined: 01 Nov 2006
Odometer: 307
Location: Wirral, Cheshire


1992 Toyota Landcruiser

PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2009 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

John that looks fanbloodytastic mate, top marks to ya. Got me thinking about building one of my own... and I don't even weld (yet).

The aussie trailers often have kitchen galleys mounted into large drawers that simply slide out another trailer width, and everything is already at the perfect working height. Was thinking you could possibly do something similar with the spare space at the front? Include a fridge, twin stove and grill, sink, water tank and pump, gas bottle Question Just a thought.

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Reality is a nice place to visit, but I wouldn't want to live there


Last edited by Jimmy on Fri May 08, 2009 11:46 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Jimmy
Just got MTs


Joined: 01 Nov 2006
Odometer: 307
Location: Wirral, Cheshire


1992 Toyota Landcruiser

PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2009 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BigDaveGrrr wrote:


Im thinking of finding a Jap 6 stud axle to replace the Sankey axle by cutting the axle tube and diff housing off and welding a new tube in.


Dave, just a thought to aviod the cutting work, is there not an axle available with no diff and jap stud configuration? Is the 2wd hilux sfa? If so you could just weld up the kingpins or something.

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YotaDave
Articulating


Joined: 12 Nov 2007
Odometer: 958
Location: Bristol


1994 Toyota Landcruiser

PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2009 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow! That looks fantastic. Shame about the tyre size though, means you wont be able to run in 4x4 if you have to put the 31" on an axle. Sad

The other thing that Im thinking of doing when I get a Sankey is making it modular so the "expedition" unit will bolt on to the chassis and I can unbolt it and swap it for the original Sankey tub if I need to fill it with rubbish etc.

The brake problem when swapping in a jap axle would be solved if I could get a newer Sankey with hydraulic brakes.

I still cant get over the fact that we have both had exacly the same idea and we both have the same vehicles (though yours is a lot mere sorted than mine).

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Dave (the Young Fart)
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jonkem
Just got MTs


Joined: 25 Sep 2007
Odometer: 389
Location: Bedfordshire, UK


1989 Isuzu Trooper

PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2009 10:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great comments & ideas, thanks and keep them coming Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy .

Dave...right again! The wide track with hydraulics will make it easy, the only downside is the initial cost of the donor but probably £150 more than I paid seems cheap in hindsight. A lot easier to set up than all those rods and adjusters! Mind you I'm happy playing with it all as long as it works in the end Very Happy
I also thought about a demountable body as the original tub is removable. I decided against it quite early on because of the extra weight it would mean. I managed to integrate the chassis into the floor structure & the frame work, you would need to duplicate elements which would add quite a few kilos.

Also about the tyre size. Having done a fair bit offroad (with quite a bit in competitions) I know pretty much what the car will cope with in 2wd and just how far I can push it with odd rolling radius' when using 4wd. The basic idea is that if it's bad enough to need 4wd, then there is enough slip available to scrub off any wind up that occurs.
Especially easy to loose the wind up with the trailers road biased AT pattern Very Happy
But you are right that it's a shame & a mistake that I won't make again Wink

Jimmy.....I know what you mean about the pull-out or even fold-out kitchens and this is sort of on the cards or at least rattling around my head. I've seen them on this type of trailer in a cubby hole above the mudguards as well but this is stupid if the tent folds out above it!

The fridge will be a Waeco that is horizontal with a lift up flap door which is really the only way to fit into the available space and this possibly rules out the burner pulling out from above it.

With hindsight the front doors should have been wider but they were initially decided on for access to the inner space once I saw the overall internal capacity after welding the corners & rails and realised you'd never reach anything at the front.

The engineering involved in a pull-out side is probably beyond my garage's capacity & god knows what it'd all weigh Shocked

The welding is the easy bit, Jimmy! Designing the next bit in your head while you're welding the first bit is hard Laughing

And Dave again...it's no surprise to me that once you've got a KZJ70 you start thinking about overland type stuff. It's something that just happens as soon as you climb into the drivers seat Laughing Laughing
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Jimmy
Just got MTs


Joined: 01 Nov 2006
Odometer: 307
Location: Wirral, Cheshire


1992 Toyota Landcruiser

PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2009 11:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have alot of respect for the 12v Waeco fridges, I travelled across Aus with one. Had it running at full power 24/7 in very dusty conditions (might as well have been buried in sand it was that bad) and it didn't faulter in the slightest, kept all our food and drink cold and clean through the 35C+ temperatures Smile
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naughtyboy
Articulating


Joined: 01 Jan 2006
Odometer: 966
Location: west yorks



PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2009 6:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

looks good so far. have been thinking of doing same to my sankey.
bodys rotten but under neath is good.

found these that i was lookin at trying.
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jonkem
Just got MTs


Joined: 25 Sep 2007
Odometer: 389
Location: Bedfordshire, UK


1989 Isuzu Trooper

PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2009 7:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That kitchen looks demountable, Naughtyboy. Another idea for the pot!

Looking at all the available pics from trailer makers websites theres a lot of use of moulded and pressed metal, fibreglass and other materials that are pretty much beyond the diy'er in his garage.

So it's always gonna be difficult to stop the "homebuild" looking like exactly that, rather than looking a little bit pro. That's a shame.

Probably why the pro jobs have such a massive prce tag as well.

Anyway...got to get back to the grindstone now, welding a trackday astra all weekend, what joy!

Keep the ideas coming Very Happy
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jonkem
Just got MTs


Joined: 25 Sep 2007
Odometer: 389
Location: Bedfordshire, UK


1989 Isuzu Trooper

PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2009 11:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got a bit bogged down with a couple of engines so still can't get onto the trailer to do any work.

So I've been busy having ideas and getting prices for stuff instead!

About the biggest fridge I can fit in the availble space is a Waeco CF-25 which I can get down to £255, more than the fridge in my kitchen but seems a good price in comparison to what's out there. It will be on runners so I won't have to reach inside the trailer and have a lucky dip Very Happy

Opposite side of the trailer, hopefully 3 pull out storage boxes. I can get pukka drawer runners for free so just gotta buy slimline boxes with hinged lids that stay shut.

Sort of designed the electrics in my head but can't decide if I'm going to be over engineering it, what do you think about this scheme?

3 feeds from the car, 2 live when split charge has output (2 x 10amp), 1 permanent live with ignition (16amp).
Of the 2 "split" lives, 1 feeds fridge & 1 charges leisure battery whilst driving. Once engine is off changeover relay switches fridge onto leisure battery automatically.
Permanent live available for worklamps or anything else needed, also changeover switched to leisure battery with no ignition on car.
Solar panel on trailer, "sensor relay" controlled to charge battery when unhitched.
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YotaDave
Articulating


Joined: 12 Nov 2007
Odometer: 958
Location: Bristol


1994 Toyota Landcruiser

PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2009 11:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can I ask what leccy socket setup do you have on your Yota? Sounds to me like the new euro 13pin socket would suit your plans better then the twin N+S system.
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Dave (the Young Fart)
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jonkem
Just got MTs


Joined: 25 Sep 2007
Odometer: 389
Location: Bedfordshire, UK


1989 Isuzu Trooper

PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 7:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's twin 12 Dave, which was done before the trailer concept. Too late to change as the sockets are on the crossmember and anyway it gives me 14 ways to play with Very Happy
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jax906
Gate Opener


Joined: 31 May 2009
Odometer: 26
Location: cheshire



PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2009 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

looks a great build
load wise i came from the UK all the way to transylvania with a very very very heavy sankey (all me tools + boxes, welder, metal, etc) and was supprised just how well it towed couldnt really feel it behind the 90 that was also very heavily loaded.
so my only advice would be to change the spring i dont think you'll have anywhere near the weight i had and mine was still a hard drive over the big bumps

dave
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;-)
Just got MTs


Joined: 10 Oct 2005
Odometer: 206




PostPosted: Sat Jun 27, 2009 9:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brilliant build mate,

i was looking for a while at the Ozzy trailers and was thinking of making one,
but then we had a baby and now have a caravan Rolling Eyes

Still thinking of doing one when she gets a bit older.

Don't rule out an old filing cabnet for the runners and long drawers,the fronts could be cut to suit and faced with chequer plate and they can take a fair bit of weight,not bad for a tenner Exclamation

I think i would make a frame up larger than sankey maybe cut and extend the A frame to suit. Maybe Confused

Gerard
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jonkem
Just got MTs


Joined: 25 Sep 2007
Odometer: 389
Location: Bedfordshire, UK


1989 Isuzu Trooper

PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's been a while since I last posted an update but despite being mega busy at work I have done a bit and it's getting towards the end now (thank god!!)

OK, here we go.......

I have removed 2 leafs from each spring, 2nd & 4th from bottom, and the ride is much better. I also got them re-bent to compensate for the loss in ride height. Thanks once again to Midland Motor Springs who really know their stuff!

Bought the fridge, Waeco CF25. Top bit of kit gets from ambient 20'c down to 4'c in just 10 minutes. There wasn't a lot to choose from in a suitable size and top loading but I now wouldn't change it for anything else.
I mounted it on full extension runners, it's removable and simply straps down with webbing & buckle (not pictuered). I'm going to line the mounting tray as well.





The top of the trailer is one piece of 3mm ally bent down for an overlap on 3 sides and the back edge extends straight to waterproof the rear tailgate. As with virtually every other panel it's tiger sealed and rivetted down. The tent carrier frame is now permanently bolted on and the bolts also sandwich the top to the chassis. I need to change the bolts to stainless as I'd run out of 8MMs at the time!

You can see I've used spring bolts for holding the sway-away in the open position as well as holding the fold down tailgate closed.
As the sway-away locks closed on it's antiluce there's no need to lock the tailgate seperately but it would be simple to drill the spring bolts to accept padlocks which is probably whet i'll do with the side doors.

I've fitted heavy duty, ribbed jockey wheel and prop stands. It wasn't all that straightforward getting either long enough for the Sankey's ride height and I might need a couple of jack pads to be 100% sure of the props on uneven ground.

I will probably replace the solid tyre on the jockey for an inflatable one which would be more suitable for this application.



I have almost finished the internal wiring and have tried to exclusively use Durite parts as over the years it's never let me down & it's not the most expensive.

I've run all the 12s feeds into the front of the trailer on the opposite side to and behind the fridge. It all goes into a 10 way junction box at the moment but this might need to be expanded if I decide to go for a solar charger to keep the battery in good order when it's parked up.

I made up a battery tray from ally angle (rivetted of course!) with an old battery strap adapted to suit, 4 way blade fuse holder and an 86AH leisure battery. There is a Labcraft strip light inside the battery cupboard and another inside the main rear compartment. There is still loads of space in the battery compartment so there will be a shelf above the battery for tools & spares specific to the trailer and whatever else I need to stow.


I've put in a surface mounted DIN socket dedicated to the fridge and 2 flush mounted DIN sockets externally on the trailer. These are intended for plugging in any 12v items while pitched, probably a worklight, tyre inflation pump or camping lantern etc.

I fitted a couple of boxes to the rear chassis side extensions. These are designed as under chassis tool boxes for HGVs and are very strong plastic and lockable. The nearside one is for gas bottles and I have fitted bottle securing brackets and buckle straps since the pic was taken. It can take 2 x C907 bottles and still have room for a Coleman Lantern.


The offside box is probably going to be used for wheel chocks, jack pads, security chain and hitchlock & whatever else I can think of!! I couldn't resist some graphics to match my Landcruiser Very Happy


I'm intending to plumb the gas to the front of the trailer using microbore with quick release fittings so the bottles can stay in the box and just connect the cooker remotely when required.

I've fitted a mushroom vent on the trailer top, inside the tent carrier frame, to allow some ventilation for both the battery and heat from the fridge to convect.

Both front doors went on today and all 3 doors have foam seals as used on motorhome doors. Even without the doors on it sat outside in all the recent rain and the inside stayed dry thanks to the overhang on the top!

Next job is sorting jerry can storage frames. I haven't seen any pre-made ones in the UK that I like so i'll probably have to make them as well. Can't decide how many cans I need for fuel & water or even where I'm going to put them, probably fuel in front of battery door & water in front of fridge door, but I'm sure it'll work out.
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jonkem
Just got MTs


Joined: 25 Sep 2007
Odometer: 389
Location: Bedfordshire, UK


1989 Isuzu Trooper

PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dave....exactly what I was thinking. Just used the existing 1962 springs slightly modified. Much, much better ride and less work for the tyre sidewalls.

Gerry....they're never too young for camping. My 2 started when they were tiny and now that they're bigger & uglier than me, they still love the "great outdoors".
With hindsight I would extend the hitch length slightly but the proportions seem about right, within 200mm of perfect I think. I would definitley drop the hitch height if I made another one, just so it can be used on more vehicles.
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Red110
Gate Opener


Joined: 25 Jul 2009
Odometer: 5




PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 11:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This looks like a fantastic trailer you have built. I am hopefully going to build one this summer, I can't decide weather to use the wide track or narrow track as the donor trailer. It will be behind my 110. Obviously track width is better for off road but I would think the space would be too much and lesser legal loading capacity also a downside? Any pointers from you would be most appriciated thanks
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110 hard top for work and play
3.5ltr high comp V8 Safari Racer in the making
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chrisvitarasport94
Off-Road Guru


Joined: 17 Jun 2005
Odometer: 1252
Location: South Devon



PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 7:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm luving this build, much respect, you've brought to life what many us have only dreamed of

like the HGV tool boxes.

might it be worthwhile putting the "breakdown" gear in the near side rather than off side box, for safety at the roadside?

- I guess they're interchangeable for UK & EU use Wink

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'94 3dr s/top Sport, roof bars, roof lights, Calmini bumper, SuperwinchEP9, CB & handheld, GPS, fwh's, 8x15 alloys, 31x10.5x15 BFG MT K/M's, 2" body lift, skid plates, 2.5" susp lift, & hi-lift. Safari Snorkel. R Lockright
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Red110
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Joined: 25 Jul 2009
Odometer: 5




PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another 2 questions I have are, should the kitchen be inside the tent just under the bed or on the other side of the trailer under an awning? And why all these trailers are basically boxes inbetween the arches unlike the origianal sankey which has extra room being wider with the wheel arches in the body? any comments greatly appriciated once again thanks
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110 hard top for work and play
3.5ltr high comp V8 Safari Racer in the making
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jonkem
Just got MTs


Joined: 25 Sep 2007
Odometer: 389
Location: Bedfordshire, UK


1989 Isuzu Trooper

PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 4:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chrisvitara......cheers chap Wink
As 99% of it's use will be abroad the offside would make more sense I suppose but the reason for the gas on the nearside is that my tent and awning (on the car) are both nearside so less distance for the gas to travel & less pipework.
I haven't finally decided on the arrangement for the cooker but probably mountable / detachable in the area of the drawbar.
It's a Toyota so it won't be breaking down very often Laughing

Red110......I wonder what you drive Laughing
Wide track definitely makes it more stable and matches the track width of your 110 so it stays in the same ruts. Hydraulic brakes on a wide track makes it easier to do any mods to the hitch, drawbar, axle etc. etc.
Load capacity should never be an issue as Sankeys are rated to carry 750kg and you would never get anywhere near that unless you built it from RSJs Very Happy

I wouldn't want the cooker under the tent overhang as it's not high enough to be safe (certainley on mine). My awning is on the Cruiser rather than the trailer so the cooking could be under there but probably demountable between the 2 as 1st choice for me, weather dependant of course!

My thoughts on awning location are that the ladder to the tent, fridge, gas etc are all on the nearside so I want to concentrate 99% of use on that side. Safety & security considerations mean it's easier to be aware of where everything is centred when your pitched.

My reason for having the "box between the arches" is that everyone else does it that way Laughing
Stability will be better if the load height average is lowered & access is much better from all around. Personally, the conversions I've seen that keep the original Sankey tub profile look awful but that's just my opinion!
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Red110
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Joined: 25 Jul 2009
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 10:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many thanks for that, the tent I intend to buy is designed to be 170cm above the ground for the sleeping area. I just wondered what the height of yours is? Time to look for a wide track then! thanks again
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110 hard top for work and play
3.5ltr high comp V8 Safari Racer in the making
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4x4rick
Off-Road Guru


Joined: 06 Dec 2007
Odometer: 1900
Location: J25 M25



PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BigDaveGrrr wrote:
Oooh! Im very interested in this, seems we have both had the same idea. This is exactly what I am planning to do as soon as I can find a Sankey for the right price.

I agree with Jimmy too about the axle. Im thinking of finding a Jap 6 stud axle to replace the Sankey axle by cutting the axle tube and diff housing off and welding a new tube in.

Keep up the good work, it looking great. Ill be keeping an eye on this thread for sure. Smile
Dave if you used a70series front axle with 3wheeling hubs (no moving parts,bearings are stronger and your'll have spares with you)
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Most sports require only one ball -our sport require's two..........
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YotaDave
Articulating


Joined: 12 Nov 2007
Odometer: 958
Location: Bristol


1994 Toyota Landcruiser

PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think Ive changed my mind about using a Sankey now. Ive been mulling it over for a few months now and even though they are great trailers and can be made into even better trailers (see above) I think that I would end up changing so much of it from original spec I may as well build the trailer from scratch!

I should also be able to make it from the same parts as the tow vehicle so I would have plenty of spares and maybe make it lighter than a Sankey. The problem Id have then is how do you go about rating the load weights of a home built trailer?

Anyhoo its all just a pipe dream till I get a workshop and fill it with toys... I mean tools!................ watch this space! Cool

All I can say for now is Jonkem Im jealous of your 70 and now your trailer, stop making them so good you make the rest of us look bad! Wink

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jonkem
Just got MTs


Joined: 25 Sep 2007
Odometer: 389
Location: Bedfordshire, UK


1989 Isuzu Trooper

PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 4:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Red110 wrote:
Many thanks for that, the tent I intend to buy is designed to be 170cm above the ground for the sleeping area. I just wondered what the height of yours is? Time to look for a wide track then! thanks again


Presumably that height refers to the ladder? If so. maybe it should be refered to as "the maximum height" because the ladder can be adjusted.

I haven't measured the height to the underside as the tent is still in the dining room where it's growing some roots, but probably around 1500 or 1600mm when it's mounted.

Good job I didn't put it on top of the Cruiser, I hit a car park barrier with my aerial on Saturday and it said it was 2.2mtr Very Happy
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dxmedia
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 10 Dec 2008
Odometer: 2185




PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

John,

As always with your tinkering, looks brilliant Cool
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