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More on my Edwardian Alldays & Onions
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RichardD
Marshall


Joined: 13 Mar 2003
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 4:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The videos are a little out of order but you get the idea Wink
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RichardD
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 2:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Apart from getting usefully annoyed at computers I've mostly been driving Cool

The 3 Lochs Classic was an absolute adventure. We left home at 7.30am and drove from Newton Mearns, through the city including the Clyde Tunnel and on to Helensburgh. The traffic was a lot heavier than previous years but the weather was good and people were nice. With the new valve caps and new Champion D21 (hotter) plugs I decided to try driving a little differently with remarkable results. After ~40 miles I filled up and found I'd used just 8.6 litres of unleaded; roughly 18.8mpg - my best yet. This was accomplished by keeping my speed down to 25-28mph and staying in 4th whenever possible and not advancing the ignition too far.

We arrived in time for a cuppa before heading out on the run which was from Rhu, along Loch Long to Arrochar (HQ for Agyle Forest Challenge), along the A82 and up the old 'Rest & Be Thankful'. We got held up by some nasty modern cars (1970s) so we went for another go, which was nice.

The downside of the 2nd lap was that, due to a fatal accident at Luss where the A82 was closed, we got caught up in a massive queue and even though we stopped in Arrochar to have our packed lunch the traffic just got worse. Mind you, the weather was nice and the people who saw a couple dressed in Edwardian clothing eating a picnic were confused mainly because we were nowhere near the car!

Eventually we got back on to the Loch Long road (A814) but only got about 2 miles before we got caught up in the worst jam I've ever been in - some Council moron though it was a good idea to send trucks, tankers, coaches and caravans down a road barely wide enough for 2 normal cars! It was 4 hours later that we got back to Rhu.

A 1 hour stop for tea and biscuits and we drove home through hellish traffic in Dumbarton and busy traffic all the way home. The car was running as well at the end as at the beginning - the same could not be said for me!

A week later and we're off to the Biggar Albion Rally. A 50 mile drive across Lanarkshire, up hill and down dale, to our overnight stop in Symington completed in 2.25 hours. The weather was lovely and the roads quiet. The next morning, up and running first turn of the handle and off to the show which was really, really busy and an excellent time was had by all. Come 4pm it was time to start the 2.5 hour drive home back through Lanark. The car was pulling smoothly but slowly so I swapped on to battery 2 despite battery 1 only having had 3 hours running and the difference was noticeable. I'll be buying either new batteries (after 4 years) or one much bigger battery for our week away in Elgin in late September.



Now you'll start to notice a theme here. Almost every trip out ends up in an adventure and this one was no exception. About 1/3rd of the way home, going through Kirkfieldbank, I dropped down to 2nd to get up a very steep hill and there was a godalmighty BANG and 2 bits of red metal came flying out the right hand side of the engine bay! I immediately pulled over and killed the engine (still running fine but with huge vibrations), jumped out to pick up the bits and then opened the cover to survey the damage.



It was obvious that one vane had fatigued off and taken out the other. There is a big dent in the engine cover which could have been my head if it had let go when I was working on the car.

Next post: the repair

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RichardD
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 2:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was not a happy boy. A broken 100 year old fan made of cast aluminium is unlikely to be either cheap or easy to repair and all but impossible to have remade inexpensively given the complexity not to mention a large dent a cracked paintwork - very expensive to sort Mad



Now it could have been a whole lot worse, the radiator was undamaged and I still had all the bits. I called Hagerty Insurance's rescue and recovery service and within an hour a very nice chap appeared with a flatbed recovery truck and was very happy to let me do the loading a strapping down (No RAC/AA/Green Flag thankfully) and took us home.

Come Monday morning I had removed the fan (2 minutes) and was casting around for people I could trust to try and weld it. I remembered the guys who repaired the manifold, Star Radiators, and called by. Their guy looked at it, thought he could do it so I left it with them. I got 10 minutes away and was called to come and collect it. 25, 2 lumpy but solid welds and it was fixed.



Got it home that evening and a happy hour spent with a dremel, a file and some emery paper and the welds were smoothed down. I then removed the red paint ready for a proper repainting and refitting. Nice!



The next job is to source a bigger deep cycle battery that I can still easily lift in and out the car. The stronger a spark I can get for as long as possible gives me better running. I can carry one of the small batteries as a back up.

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RichardD
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 2:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Last maintenance update.

I'd noticed, whilst driving, that occasionally you'd hear a puffpuff noise of leaking compression so I started looking for a sealing compound that could cope with the different expansion rates of the spark plugs, the phosphor-bronze valve caps and the cast iron cylinders. Eventually I spoke to Hylomar who said Hylomar Blue is best for the job - I've got loads of it and should have bloody used it in the first place!

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LlaniGraham
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 5:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RichardD wrote:





Looking at the fan blade to the bottom of the picture, I would suggest that something needs to be done about the broken section around the rivet.

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RichardD
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 6:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did think about that but it was broken before! There are 3 rivets per blade.

I do plan to try and balance it though.

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RichardD
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, that's the Veteran Car season all but over and the last few weeks have been rather eventful. The last event of the year is the Scottish Section main event, this year it was 5 days of driving around the Moray area based in Elgin.

To get the car ready I only had to refit the repaired fan and go for a test drive but as soon as I started the engine the fan blades came flying off immediately and nearly took my head off. ******. Cue much panic and thoughts of cancellation until the idea of making a frame for a modern electric fan borrowed from a friend. 4 hours of fabrication and a battery stolen from my 90 and it was working well enough to risk taking it.

So off we went, arriving in Elgin a couple of days early to have some chill time before the geriatrics arrived (average age of owner must be at least 75) and a wee drive to Lossiemouth, Duffus Castle and area on Saturday and Sunday proved the fan was working well and the battery should last each day's drive.

Monday was a 75 mile run along the coast in rather damp weather, Tuesday 65 miles in rain but Wednesday, being a short day was only 25 miles or so with a Distillery tour in the middle. We were tired after 2 long days so we took the direct route back to base ready for a few hours chilling in the pool/jacuzzi/sauna but when we crested the hill into Elgin disaster struck - sudden lack of drive!

It was very odd, driving beautifully, quietly and with zero fuss but after a wee roundabout put my foot on the gas and the engine note rose but no drive! I changed gear - nothing, I tried the foot (transmission) brake - nothing, I tried the hand brake (rear axle) and thankfully we slowed. I knew the rear axle was ready for an overhaul, but what could have gone wrong? I let the car coast into a garage forecourt and hopped out to look underneath but I couldn't see anything wrong so I asked Jacquie to get into the driving seat, put it into 1st gear and try moving the car with the admonishment "don't run me over". Her response was "which is the clutch? Which is 1st gear?"

I was at a loss, was it the clutch, the newly rebuilt gearbox? Sure not the diff which would cost thousands to repair? Looking underneath as the clutch was slowly engaged the engine was fine, the clutch was fine. The gearbox made gearbox noises and the propshaft was turning perfectly but STILL no drive. Scrub that, the car seemed to want to take up drive but wouldn't actually move. Hmmmmm. There were no grinding noises, no clunking, just no forward motion.

Nothing for it but to get a lift back to the hotel, collect the trailer and retire the car from the event and find a couple of passenger seats. As I pushed the Alldays to the side I noticed that the rear right wheel looked to be at a slightly odd angle and on closer inspection I found this



The hub had split! The welds holding the flange that the wheel bolts to had broken and the wheel was all but ready to fall off, easy to repair but unimaginable horror if the wheel had come off and rolled down the long steep hill into Elgin!!

Trailer collected, car loaded and taken back to the hotel where I eventually got the name of a local garage who could help. They pointed me to Gibby's Motor Weld-In so off I went there and Gibby did the business for me in 20 minutes including checking the other side Cool

Panic over, car unloaded and test driven and we were ready for the 90 miles of sunny coastal driving on Thursday followed by a final 75 mile day on Friday all completed with much smiling, fantastic views, waves and general enjoyment. Over 350 miles completed, about half my annual mileage with only a wash and polish needed before being put away for the winter and some servicing and overhauling.

The fan:
The welds that had been done had zero penetration and when I dressed the welds back I had all but removed them. Being safety critical, a repair is not possible so off to Forrest Precision again for a new one to be CNCd out of billet ally. I'm still waiting for the estimate but I'm not expecting change from 750 Shocked

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Winnet
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

But it will be worth it.

G.

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Xpajun
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1988 Mitsubishi Shogun

PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RichardD wrote:


The fan:
The welds that had been done had zero penetration and when I dressed the welds back I had all but removed them. Being safety critical, a repair is not possible so off to Forrest Precision again for a new one to be CNCd out of billet ally. I'm still waiting for the estimate but I'm not expecting change from 750 Shocked


That is the problem with today's engineering - everything has to be CNCed... does no one know today how to use a rotary table and a dividing head?
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** GED **
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 11:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Xpajun wrote:
RichardD wrote:


The fan:
The welds that had been done had zero penetration and when I dressed the welds back I had all but removed them. Being safety critical, a repair is not possible so off to Forrest Precision again for a new one to be CNCd out of billet ally. I'm still waiting for the estimate but I'm not expecting change from 750 Shocked


That is the problem with today's engineering - everything has to be CNCed... does no one know today how to use a rotary table and a dividing head?


Nope.

But I can do quadratic equations in base seven.

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RichardD
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Winter is well upon us but as the afternoons get lighter I'm motivated to pick up all those jobs I've been ignoring.

First, the fan. It will be ready at the end of January and should be a 30 minute fit.

Second, the bosch DU4b magneto I found will be refurbished by the end of Feb so that will be fitted so ending my reliance on carrying fully charged batteries for smooth running. This will give me more storage under the seat for essential such as GPS, phone cables and sandwiches.

The list of jobs:
- remove the valve caps and spark plugs and refit using hylomar to give a hopefully gas tight seal and maximise compression.
- check all oils and greases
- remove rear hubs and make new 'chucks' with fresh keysteel to solidly fix hubs to driveshafts. The slot in the shaft has worn but the reciprocal slot in the hub is new (1980s) and the 2 are not the same. This is where some of the slop is take up is coming from. New keysteel, properly fitted, will reduce future damage/wear.

The latest A&O related project is to create a Register of Alldays Vehicles. Starting with the cars, I've been given 2 lists, both 15+ years out of date, and I've been busy researching and contacting people and Clubs all over the world and making decent headway. It seems there are only ~25 cars left and mine, a 12/14 is one of only 4 of the model and one of 2 of later version of the model (there was a complete redesign in 1912 for 1913).

No new photos but I will start posting pics of other A&O cars as they come in from owners.

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Xpajun
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 3:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RichardD wrote:

- remove rear hubs and make new 'chucks' with fresh keysteel to solidly fix hubs to driveshafts. The slot in the shaft has worn but the reciprocal slot in the hub is new (1980s) and the 2 are not the same. This is where some of the slop is take up is coming from. New keysteel, properly fitted, will reduce future damage/wear.




I used to make "T" keys for many of our ancient machinery in the factory, the thinner upper to fit the new componant while the thicker lower was machined to fit a re-machined keyway on the original shaft
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RichardD
Marshall


Joined: 13 Mar 2003
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2016 10:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been pottering and fettling for a few weeks now and despite the new fan being a bit of a nightmare for the guys building it (they keep on cocking up) it will be a work of art when finished.

Tonight I took out the valve caps and spark plugs ready to refit with hylomar gasket sealant and noticed the plugs were white. This,of course, means it is running rather lean across all 4 cylinders, all being the same colour so I decided to richen the mixture up a shade. Off with the float bowl, out with the jets and aft checking my notes and the current settings, I drilled out the jets by an extra 0.05mm to main 0.65mm and comp 1mm.

The valve caps were slathered in goo and refitted, the spark plugs lightly smeared and bolted in and left for an hour to set. On turning the engine over I could feel 4 distinct compressions, all much more even and stronger than normal ( during winter lay up I turn it over every few weeks to keep the internals oiled). I felt a test fire was in order.

2 litres of unleaded, battery connected, spark retarded and throttle part opened and I was ready to go. This is always a nervous time and I was ready for a couple of hours of fannying around to get it to fire and run but with barely a flick of the handle it fired and ran perfectly. Ignition slowly advanced and throttle closed to suit and soon it was ticking over nice and slow with a nice SPAM sound without any tell tale ticking or hissing. The hylomar had blown in a few places but so much was in the threads it had sealed perfectly.

A couple of stops and restarts and I was convinced it's now ready to run once I get the fan fitted. Once the new magneto is ready I can fit it knowing that the car runs perfectly so finding the settings should be relatively straightforward.

Not started the hub keysteels yet nor remembered to get the cover sorted with new zips. Always a few jobs to do Wink

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Winnet
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1985 Land Rover

PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2016 8:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Makes you wonder how they managed to make the fans in the old days then if the new place is struggling. Or is it a case of rediscovering old technologies and techniques?

G.

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RichardD
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2016 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Winnet wrote:
Makes you wonder how they managed to make the fans in the old days then if the new place is struggling. Or is it a case of rediscovering old technologies and techniques?

G.


The original was cast aluminium but the new one is cnc'd from billet ally. The first one was half done when they operator lost concentration and allowed the machine head to clip it and the second one was made with the holes for the bearings being too tight and now they can't remove them and they're knackered so they have to make a 3rd one!

I have limited sympathy - they didn't follow my instructions that it had to be able to be assembled and adjusted without heavy tools. They've had it for almost 6 months as well!



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Winnet
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2016 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So they are using technology they should be used to and it is down to their ability to make the requested item. It is looking good though.

G.

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RichardD
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2016 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

aye, just down to good old fashioned human error Embarassed
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jojo
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2016 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should be able to recover the cost by flogging the cock-ups to a modern art gallery.


Nice work. Keep up the news on the "More" thread.

J
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RichardD
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 10:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A wee update for the start of the driving season ...

A couple of short test runs with the new fan fitted and it is working perfectly. In fact, with nice new bearings and almost perfectly balanced it clearly is allowing the engine to run just a little more smoothly.

Other fettles include using hylomar blue to fully seal up the valve caps and the spark plugs and now the engine runs so much better than it did it is brilliant. The old ticking sounds have all but disappeared and the engine sounds much more solid and starts first swing of the handle. Even under serious pressure (e.g. turning up a steep incline at low revs) the engine just pulls cleanly and smoothly, and as long as I fully close the priming pots, I'm getting full compression and no odd noises. I took the chance of richening the mixture up a touch after seeing how white the plugs were and that seems to help with starting and running as well. We can run at a steady 30mph and still get ~15mpg and less gear changing.

Sunday last, we went to Largs for lunch and it was a 33 mile route there and about 30 back taking roughly 90 minutes each way. In total we used around 20 litres of fuel and the most noticeable thing was just how easy the drive was. One problem that reared it's head was weak running on the way home which came down to the ignition battery running down faster than expected. As you may recall I carry 2 Lucas 22Ah 12v AGM SPAM caddy batteries (one to use, one for spare) to run the magneto/coil conversion which I fitted about 5 years ago. It has been perfect but over last year's events I started to notice that the engine was running a bit 'softer' in the afternoons resulting in having to sit in 2nd or 3rd on the hills more than in the morning. The difference now is very clear; with a fresh battery I tend to retard the ignition on the flat to help control speed but after only 30 miles I'm having to work the engine much harder. The answer is, obviously, new batteries and/or bigger batteries until the restored magneto is finished and fitted.

Without a charging system, I'm running a total loss ignition which means I need a battery which can provide a long slow discharge without being damaged, i.e. deep cycle, leisure or mobility/SPAM caddy battery. I opted for 2Ah Lucas batteries because they fit under the driver's seat and can be easily carried into a hotel room to be recharged. Now the car runs so much better and I'm driving longer distances I should either be swapping batteries at lunch time, carrying more or creating a battery bank to give me longer running at full power or all 3!

How long can I run the ignition before the battery gets too low to be effective? Time for some science!

A 22Ah battery is not able to give 22 hours of 1A current draw, at best you'd expect to be able to discharge it to 75% without damage. This means I can plan on 5.5Ah of usable power from each battery. How long I can drive for will then depend on the current the ignition draws and amazingly enough I have never got around to measuring it. Looking on t'net I can see answers to the question "how much current does a car ignition draw?" ranging from 0.5A to 5.5A so last night I took a fully charged battery my Mastech multimeter and set out to measure it.

Meter linked in series on the +ve of the battery and the ignition off saw 0.00A (as you'd expect give there's nothing else in the circuit) but as I switched it on the reading leapt to 4.4A then reducing to ~3.7A. I was not too surprised and knew it draws less when running so got her started up. At that point the current draw dropped to 1.75A and stayed there no matter what I did with the advance/retard or the throttle. Good news! This meant I had been drawing much less than I had expected. When I stopped the engine the draw dropped to 0.00A because the points were open - on turning the engine over a touch the draw went back up to 3.75A.

So, how much running time had I actually been getting? Around 3 hours rather than the 7 I had planned for originally and as a result of not swapping halfway through each day I have worn out these batteries in far fewer cycles than advertised (when not being used they sit on a CTEK charger). Now I can drive up to 100 miles in a day (the car is still fresh but I take 2 days to recover) which would take up to 6 hours I would need 10.5Ah of usage and therefore a battery with at least 42Ah capacity (1.75A x 6h/25%) and preferably 52.5Ah (1.75A x 6h/20%).

I have 3 choices of how to achieve this given that I need to be able to easily remove the batteries to take into a hotel room to recharge:
1. buy 2 or 3 new Lucas 22Ah batteries and swap them over every 2 or 3 hours
2. buy 2 new Lucas 22Ah batteries and run them as a single bank (both to use and charge) with an older one as a spare.
3. buy a much larger version of the same battery and mount it under the rear seat and put up with humping it in and out (and keep a wee one as a spare).

things to bear in mind
1. the 22Ah batteries are 33 each and the bigger ones are, oddly proportionately more expensive
2. only the 22Ah can slide into the driver's seat box
3. this is only to last me over the summer when I'll have the magneto back and fitted
4. I could buy a similar sized Oddysy battery for 120 and run it down to nothing each time

..... or one of you guys has a better idea that doesn't involve a complicated charging system ....

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Xpajun
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Joined: 22 Sep 2008
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1988 Mitsubishi Shogun

PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How about one or two of these running on your back wheel - one would cover your running current...
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RichardD
Marshall


Joined: 13 Mar 2003
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 12:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Xpajun wrote:
How about one or two of these running on your back wheel - one would cover your running current...


You know, I did think of one but didn't think anyone still made them!

A wee bit of research beckons Cool Cool

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 1:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After much research and a bit of discussion with Manbat (the makers of the Lucas batteries), the 22Ah battery should give me 12.5 hours of usage at 1.75A draw. Their tech guy reckons that after 4 years my current batteries are simply worn out - okay for spare/backup but knackered.

New one ordered for 33 along with a nice wee monitor display thing for 7.

Sorted.

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RichardD
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2016 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's been pointed out that I've not posted enough photos recently so here are some from the Main Event in Elgin last September

See who can guess the marques ...











[img]http://forum.difflock.com/userpix
/1359_IMG_1270_Medium_1.jpg[/img]






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RichardD
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2016 1:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

and finally a photo of the fan during assembly & in situ




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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2016 8:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A wee update .....

We went on the annual VCC Dumfries weekend event and the car performed faultlessly. The fan is doing a fantastic job and whilst not exactly professionally balanced, it is close enough for me and the car runs far smoother than before. The cooling is about as good as one can expect as well.

We did about 70 miles each day and on Saturday I got about 15mpg with 4 adults in the car. Sunday was a different matter. Jacquie hung around at the pre lunch stop in Annan for about half an hour longer than everyone else and we ended up having to drive at top speed to catch up. This meant that every big bump would bounce us out the seats and fuel consumption dropped to about 8mpg!

The only time we slowed was to let the engine cool a little but the car loved it, even if we didn't.










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Poking the Grim Reaper with a stick then running away. The devil made me do it but God said it was okay with him.
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RichardD
Marshall


Joined: 13 Mar 2003
Odometer: 22856
Location: State of Confusion



PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2016 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Next up was Milngavie Car Show and again we drove across Glasgow to get there. The drive across was uneventful but the return was a tad difficult because of modern traffic.

Got about 15mpg and had a lovely day out.

Next event is the Strathmore Vehicle Extravaganza at Glamis Castle this weekend 9th/10th July. If you're coming drop by and see us - we're beside the arena.

In other news, I've bought another Alldays ....



Its a 1914 Alldays with a Villiers 269cc 2-stroke engine. Possibly the earliest example of this model.
100% original and perfectly restored and with a full 2 1/4 HP! No gears, no clutch so each time you want to stop you have to pull in the decompression lever and then to restart you paddle away and drop the lever and away you go.

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Poking the Grim Reaper with a stick then running away. The devil made me do it but God said it was okay with him.
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jojo
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 11 Aug 2007
Odometer: 5260




PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any updates Richard?

J
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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3342
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2017 6:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It would have been a weird winter not having it spread all over the garage I guess?
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RichardD
Marshall


Joined: 13 Mar 2003
Odometer: 22856
Location: State of Confusion



PostPosted: Wed Sep 13, 2017 8:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry, I've been away from 4x4s completely and been busy with real life.

I'll do a few updates .... soon

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Poking the Grim Reaper with a stick then running away. The devil made me do it but God said it was okay with him.
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RichardD
Marshall


Joined: 13 Mar 2003
Odometer: 22856
Location: State of Confusion



PostPosted: Wed Sep 13, 2017 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually, I'll do a catch up one now with details to follow.

It's been almost 18 months since I last updated this thread but there's not been much to report simply because the car has been surprisingly reliable but there have been a few stories to tell ....

The car gets used for about 6 or 7 events each year totalling around 1,000 miles per year and I'm pleased to say that a decade of work has resulted in a car that runs rather nicely, steers and stops as one might expect for a 105 year old car however I'm now having to replace worn out parts that I've fitted!

The last update was at the Dumfries weekend in 2016 which was great fun and during the rest of the year we completed the RSAC 3 Lochs Classic (a 140 mile day), Strathmore Vehicle Extravaganza at Glamis Castle and the Biggar Vintage Rally as well as the VCC Scottish Main Event based at the Fairmont Hotel in St Andrews not to mention the odd picnic and day out just because it was sunny.

The major successes of 2016 were a lack of breakdowns and proving that some repairs were almost too good. The gearbox was rebuilt and now works perfectly and (in 2017) was inspected to find a total lack of shiny bits despite many crunched gearchanges. A period magneto was sourced and sent for rebuilding, which took 9 months and 750 -I'll fit it one day, its too pretty to take off my mantle piece! The MAJOR discovery was that I had been driving the car on full choke for years ..... (next post)

2017 has seen fewer days out due to family and weather but the car has been super reliable although I'm now having to rebuild the rear axle hubs before the VCC Main event as the phosphor bronze bearings have worn out prematurely. An easy job but very grimy and luckily I had 2 spare bushing bearings made and rather than fit them straight away, I'm using one as a pattern for making 7 more! The oil seals are also gubbed (6 each) but a hub repair/rebuild should resolve that one for the future.

I discovered the hub problem when I realised I had no brakes coming down a hill from my house ... oddly, I no longer panic when that happens!

next ..... prepare to choke up

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