New Biodiesel processor in the South West/A303

[Cartman]

Just found a new biodiesel processor just down the road from me. So anyone travelling down the A303.............

Solstice Bio Fuels
Ratfyn Farm,
Amesbury,
Salisbury,
SP4 7EB

Apparently charge 92p/l including duty.

Plan to get a small amount this week and check it over for quality/wash.

[Cartman]

Well price is actually 97p/l and the operation is hard to find but is located right up the lane signed Ratfyn Farm off the roundabout as you get off East bound at Solstice Park.

Hours are 9-6 Mon-Fri and 9-12 on Saturdays.

Water and bio tests to be revealed later. Only just put it in the jar

[Cartman]

So here are the results of the first batch I have bought off these guys.

A clean jar with 50% bio straight from the can plus 50% water(filtered). Shaken for 10 seconds then left to settle. Pic taken after 30 minutes.

Any good?

[discoverytdi]

not my write up it's what I've gone off
Decent Biodiesel made from used Rapeseed oil should be good down to at least -5c - provided its been made and washed correctly. Some suppliers will even winterise it prior to selling during the winter months which makes it good to -10c or lower.

If in doubt mix in at least 20% of regular diesel or 10% unleaded fuel into your tank during the colder months (when temp drops below -5c)

If you fuel gels long before it reaches -5c then change your supplier!


In some older (Pre 1993) vehicles the extensive use of rubber within fuel lines and pump seal components can be attacked by biodiesel, leading to leaks and failed pumps.

Sadly, there are lots of people selling Biodiesel which hasn't been 'washed' correctly. This means that the chemicals used to turn the used oil into biodiesel haven't been filtered and removed from the mix and are still present. One of these chemicals is Methanol, a substance which is extremely abrasive and in high enough quantities will kill your fuel pump.

Proper biodiesel has all of the methanol removed and will not damage your fuel system, apart from the occasional clogging of the fuel filter during the actual changeover.

This is why its important to carry out a simple water test on your fuel, before putting it into your tank. This determines whether the fuel has been washed correctly, and I have described this simple procedure on another thread - but here it is again:-

Pour 250ml of bottled water (tap water which is previously been boiled, and allowed to cool will be fine) into an old pop bottle.

Add 250ml of your biodiesel

Shake the mixture up well

Allow 5 - 15 mins for it all to settle out.

Good biodiesel will quickly seperate into two very distinct layers. Clear Bio at the top and clear water at the bottom.

Both layers should be clear enough to see newspaper text through the bottle.

If the water which seperates is milky or cloudy then there is 'soap' still in the biodiesel, and it needs to be 'washed' properly after production.

If any commercially produced biodiesel produces these results then take it back!! - better still do the test in front of them .

Disclaimer:- This is only a basic test, and isn't extensive by any means but in most cases will show 'soap' residue within the bio which hasn't been washed correctly. However bear in mind, that some additives or winterising agents which may have been added to the fuel by the producer may give misleading results to otherwise acceptable fuel, so its important to bear that in mind and ask the supplier for info.

Its also a good idea to do the water test in front of them before you buy, any decent supplier should be happy to give you a sample of 250ml to test.

[Cartman]

Soooo basically what you re saying is it isn't good then?