disco truck on 404s

[minimog]

http://www.metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi
i posted this on another thead its a very good program for coping tube

[unimogler]

all credit to minimog, i first saw it on difflock but could not remember who put the link on, me and piggy were talking about it and thought about cutting some plastic tubes, maybe old sealant tubes or plastic conduit to a few common angles providing the diametre matched, just slip on, mark then cut. any one know of a site that gives the same sort of thing but for compound mitre cuts for pipe on to a flat surface, and sorry again to steel minimogs thunder.

[4x4rick]

http://snip.awardspace.com/

another

[clbarclay]

[boss]

tis another job yes an i really cant be ***** with that as time is precious.
need to keep the cost fairly low too as i dont want to skimp on the joints for the front end

maby an exhaust expander with sand paper on it in a drill

[clbarclay]

http://www.tilgear.info/products/641/4472/wrapr...er_50mm_diameter/
http://www.axminster.co.uk/carroll-carroll-drum...1816/?src=froogle

[minimog]

i use old sealant tubes on the smaller sizes they just arnt big enough to go around 2" tube
as for keeping costs down chester do a tube notcher that uses the hole saws last time i looked it was £54 inc delivery(might have gone up a little)
and just buy cheep screwfix hole saws
but i wont do offset notches (supose the clamp could be shimmed to do small offsets
it also great to clamp on the car type notches

[boss]

oh god i was joking about the drill lol


when i say a cheap alternative i mean something that will last a while but isnt a 4k mill or 1.6k belt sander. the same company who makes the bender also make notchers the TN-100 looks alot like the chester one but a little more substantial especially the clamp. i can get this for around 175 and i already have a set of good hole saws https://www.jd2.com/p-62-tn-100.aspx

[clbarclay]

Unfortunately I completely missed the joke Three laughing similes and I still missed it

[boss]

no its backfired really as there is something very simmilar lol its just a die grinder for a drill really isnt it.
cheers for the input though mate

[boss]

on a different note, what do people think of the cage?

[forkrentfitter]

cage needs to be completely finished,building cages for money for customers is a risky game as it implies you know how to design a safety cage,you really need to have public liability insurance too,only a couple of weeks ago a fella was killed taking part in atyro trial up in scotland,they are supposed to be for show room spec trucks,obviously police/coroner/hse will be all over it,not putting a downer on what you are trying to do just offering advice from what i see.

[minimog]

cage is only as strong as its weekest part (the weld)
i personley dont like how it cuts through the roof because it weekens the car body which could of been concidered as a safty cell if the cage collapes its got the roof structure to get through before your head
also to get a cross brace in the front section your going to have to cut more of the roof away or put bends on the ends to tie in to the side bars
but then thats just my opinion and meens nothing more than that

[boss]

quick one.


the diff is going to hit the sump, do i extend the wheelbase to 110 or do i move the engine back?

eatending the wheelbase would be the easeyest by far but it would defeat the point of buying a disco for its 100" wheelbase. moving the engine back would be good but mucho work and by the time ive cut the bulkhead about and re welded brackets i may aswell scrap the body.
thoughts please?

[minimog]

because the mog axles have the diff more central than the landy ones (after the offset swap)
the best way would be to shorten the short side(its not as if your going to be too narrow) did this to mine with the short side shortened 4.5"
are you going full hydro or staying on a steering box

[boss]

[minimog]

is that landrover correct or original mog(by using a different t-case)
so if your full hydro and using a panhard rod if you swap the mounts so the chassis mount is on the passinger side chassis and the axlemount is on the drivers side when the suspension crompressies the diff will move away from the diff at the moment if you compress the suspension the pan hard will shove the diff into the sump/bellhousing

[hybrid73]

boss are you going to billing show next week?

[teamidris]

Dry sump?
Or re-shape the existing one?

Assuming the left hand drive panard rod doesn't cure it right off. (nice fix, like it, simples)

And there should be an inch of engine lift available. I dropped my bulkhead half an inch by welding it direct to the chasiss. I still have about an inch left above the bell housing on the rangy classis, which is kind of the same machine.

I'd say rotate the engine-gearbox on their mounts, but that probably means it'll smash the corner off the block off instead

[minimog]

think barry modified his sump on the tomcat but has kept his panhard the same way as standard he sat it on the bumpstops and shortened his panhard so it would miss the sump(not the best way to do it but hes happy with it)
he wouldent let me redue it the way i wanted and he could of had a longer and less angled panhard

[teamidris]

I have a photo from underneath Barry's truck

But its from the other side

I recon I see a weld on the diff side of the sump. It looks as though only the very end of the diff would catch. Not like my rangy where the diff is nearly under the engine. So Barry may have shoved the engine back, assuming its not standard to have it back on a tomcat?

[boss]

the article on the 110 tomcat said the engine had been moved back and lowerd. My proposal is extending the wheelbase by the links so ill move the diff forward eliminating several problems at once. Re shaping the sump had crossed my mind as its not hammering down the moterway at 70 anymore is all the oil needed? Dry sump would be very nice but not to sure of the cost, i heard around 1k? Mula i would prefer to spend elsewhere. Moving the engine up is not an option either, its a big truch and moving heavy things up doesnt seem like such a good idea but ill look into it.

[boss]

[minimog]

yes its been moved back (think its something to do with swapping bellhousings between a disco/defender)

[boss]

so could i cheat by obtaining a different bellhousing? and adjusting engine mounts?

[boss]

oneday, i will finish it.
now a 108 to clear the mog diff. evereything tacked up as im yet to cycle it.



rough idea



still not sure on that one, the brace is definatly benificial but it is butt ugly(not the final one if i did put one in) and i think i could get the dame effect by bracing it to the wings.




any thoughts?

[teamidris]

If you 'yump it' then the cross-brace will work really well, as both shocks have load and the push to the middle is equal.
But on cross axel the cross brace will only push against the unloaded support on the other side. So bracing the shock hoops to the wing bars will be just as good. But... if the wing bars are seperate, then a good bang into a tree is a wing-bar only incident.

Third option needed What about a bracing 'X' in front of the engine? A bit like a main hoop cross?

[boss]

that is not a bad shout. ive seen the yanks do that but never thought of doing it myself, im short on space though becasue to save time for the moment the rad is probibly going back into the front.

[teamidris]

" I hear that " as those americans say
Time/work-done is definately keeping me off the mud! I've given up on 2011 and am working on the theory it'll be all the better for 2012!

Maybe the cross doesn't have to finish at the same point on the chassis as the shock hoops? It could be virticle, close to the engine and bolt on, so that the engine can still be removed

But it does look a very good time to lay in the rear rad pipes. While all that front end is accessible

[clbarclay]