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Crawler.. bike buggy..2 seater flat 4 variable diff pro warp
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FlatBlack
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Joined: 18 Feb 2013
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Location: America



PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 9:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^^ January has come and gone Very Happy
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Blue dragon
Just got MTs


Joined: 12 Mar 2009
Odometer: 180
Location: Midlands UK



PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 6:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes I'm making progress again now. Welded some 40x40 braces in to connect the rear diff bearing to the main roll hoop legs.



Finished welding critical parts like the bearing tubes.



Sent parts off for sand blasting



Then off for zinc plating



I'm using 4 pot motorbike calipers all round. I have machined standard Subaru ventilated discs down to thin solid discs, this halves the weight and stops mud packing in to the vents.


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Builder of Citroen / Suzuki lightweight rock crawler and super lightweight Bike engined 4x4 buggy
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Blue dragon
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Joined: 12 Mar 2009
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Location: Midlands UK



PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I scored a very cheap Impreza exhaust manifold on eBay.



Unfortunately there is simply no room for it so I then set about cutting it into pieces.



Now time to sort the diffs out. They came appart easily for cleaning, but there are so many parts !!



Remember the 3 gear sets:



Here they are ground flush and with the needle bearings between them replaced with spacers.



Now with the torque sleeve pressed on:



And now plug welded:



And some Cardboard Aided Design. A template for the sump guard:


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Eclipsed4ever
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Joined: 05 May 2012
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry to go back a few steps.

When you make your aluminium tubs, how do you fix them? Spot weld/rivet/seam weld etc.?

Lovely work and attention to detail Very Happy

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Blue dragon
Just got MTs


Joined: 12 Mar 2009
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Location: Midlands UK



PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 9:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use countersunk M5 screws with thin nylock nuts. Also methacrylate adhesive between the flanges.
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Blue dragon
Just got MTs


Joined: 12 Mar 2009
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Location: Midlands UK



PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 10:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

On to the cockpit now. Bought some nice seat shells .... a little persuation with a grinder and they just fit



Fiddler brake pedals next ... good job I don't need a clutch pedal too !



Fuel tank is an interesting "boot" shape to fit in behind the drivers seat.



Cooling system is a high spec Evo unit ... I don't want overheating issues Surprised



The air filter needs to be compact ... I may stick it up a bit higher ... It amused me that the KN style filter sits in the bucket enclosure and these are held together with a finger tight bolt, which is ready to bounce off down into the engine ... Shocked



The altenator needed jacking up on a pylon due to the inlet manifold rotation.



There is a perfect space for a Gel battery on the floor behind the passenger ...



Which needs to be high capacity as i'm going to experiment with electric pump steering Confused


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FlatBlack
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Joined: 18 Feb 2013
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2014 11:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What's the plan for the seats? Any kind of padding or removable covering?

You say "K&N style" so maybe you mean cone filter or exposed filter element, but one would be wise to avoid the K&N brand, as they breath better by letting particles into your engine.

ISO test here if you are interested.

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html

Looking forward to completion.

Cheers
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Blue dragon
Just got MTs


Joined: 12 Mar 2009
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Location: Midlands UK



PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 5:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The guy I bought the seats off had some stick on pads. They were comfortable but I think I would destroy them fairly quickly Shocked

The filter is a K&N knock off, but looks well made, I hope it will do Very Happy

Been working on the starter motor. I machined the ring gear off the Scooby torque converter, then made a fixture to centre it onto the ZF unit to weld it on.



Then I got a laser cut bracket to bolt the starter motor above the gearbox:



I finished the rear drive shaft and added a bearing carrier. I had to weld the BMW shaft, however it is actually a forged tube not a bar and I think it should be fine.



Parts back from plating:



Parts are also back from powder coating:





The whole tub, roll frame, centre tunnel, bulkheads etc. weighs less than a typical 4x4 front axle.



Panels in black





Coming together now, I'm going for the matchbox toy look Very Happy


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Blue dragon
Just got MTs


Joined: 12 Mar 2009
Odometer: 180
Location: Midlands UK



PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote













Can anyone help me with a descent wiring diagram please. The Haynes manual is no good and I've surfed the net without much luck so far. Its a 1997 Subaru Legacy 2500cc, Non turbo, non EGR, auto box. I need one of those nice colour schematics that the dealer technitians get !! All ideas welcome. I just want to get the engine running, but there are still 45 unidentified wires from the ECU. Thanks Shocked Sad Shocked Sad Shocked

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jon.g1
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Joined: 07 Nov 2007
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Location: Taunton, Somerset, UK



PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2014 6:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wow thats looking amazing Smile.

most manufactures have there manuals available online the catch is you have to pay for them, i've used the toyota one when doing an engine swap in an mr2 for a customer and there diagrams were very thorougher, i'd hope the subaru ones would be as good.

anyway heres a link to the subaru site

http://techinfo.subaru.com/index.html

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They will make a better idiot!

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Eclipsed4ever
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Joined: 05 May 2012
Odometer: 190
Location: Hereford



PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How far have you got with plugging it all into the engine to see what's left? Have you had it all running?

If you can rig it up so it will start and it all works, chopping it down can be done reasonably straightforward with a few hours of chopping.

If you yet to have it run, it should start and run with the main sensors plugged in. Get some fuel pressure, supplies and earths, ensure you have power to the sensors and ECU, should fire at that.

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2.2 Vtec 4WS Single Seater - aka Screamer - UK Champion 2013 + 2014
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Blue dragon
Just got MTs


Joined: 12 Mar 2009
Odometer: 180
Location: Midlands UK



PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2014 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many thanks indeed for the support jon.q1 and Eclipsed4ever its much appreciated. You both make wiring sound easy Shocked

I may be going about this the wrong way, I am trying to sort the harness out before installing the engine, that way I can tether the cables to the body without the engine in the way. The down side is I can't test the harness until its done.

As you say about 1/2 the wires either go to essential sensors or power or ground, its the 40 or so wires that go to the dash, gearbox or things like speed sensors which have me worried ... what is the bare minimum an engine needs to run ? For eample there is an immobilizer with the ignition barrel ... does the ECU need to talk to that or can I simple cut it all out ?

Anyway I have decided to focus on other things for a while. The rear drive shaft is a doddle, simply bolt a BMW 3 series CV onto the modifeid diff flange and I'm done:



The front shaft is another matter. The angles on this shaft are a bit er .. challenging Sad . in order to lift the transfer case up and get really good belly clearence, the front CV's are at set at 15 deg. After a bit of head scratching, I have decided that I can't use tri-lobe or rear drive CV's, instead I've opted for front hub CV's (45 deg angles) I don't need plunge here but I will run one spline without its C clip for a bit of float. The problem now is how to attach these to the drive flanges (normally these run into the front spindles.

At the front I have simply cut and welded the CV cup onto the diff flange, this is ok, but now I have to re-assemble the CV in the frame ! Shocked



I can't do this at both ends, so at the gearbox, I have drilled for 6 bolts though the hardened CV cup ... oh the wonders of carbide milling drills ! Very Happy



Onto the controls now. In the centre tunnel I have the centre diff lock lever, the main gear selector lever, 2 hydraulic levers for the 2 diffs (these are not brake levers, they apply hydraulic pressure to the diff clutch packs) and a hydraulic shut off valve to lock the warp rams.



I'm also cracking on with the centre diff mods ... more on this soon.

If there is a Subaru wiring guru in the Midlands that wants a challenge and some beer money, please pm me Very Happy

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Toseland
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Joined: 25 Oct 2011
Odometer: 3209
Location: cardiff


1999 Suzuki Vitara

PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2014 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i cant help but wonder, is it not easier just to get a megasquirt and ditch the factory ECU alltogether?
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I live by 2 sayings:
1. The beatings will continue until morale improves
2. Pain is just Weakness leaving the body..

The feeling you get when you first smash your shaft out, is one you will never forget.. especially if you do it in front of 10 guys.
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jon.g1
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Joined: 07 Nov 2007
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Location: Taunton, Somerset, UK



PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2014 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i quick gander through the diagram i linked you to, page 103 shows a start interrupt relay connected to the security system, i cant see any other ref through the engine control diagrams, although it would probably pay to do a bit of googling to check there isn't an integrated immobilizer
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Blue dragon
Just got MTs


Joined: 12 Mar 2009
Odometer: 180
Location: Midlands UK



PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 3:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been making slow progress on the transmission and transfer case, so the engine is still not in, However I pushed it out into the sunshine yesturday to try the diff swivels out.



Now this is NOT the suspension moving, nor how the diffs will work when the hydraulics are connected, this is simply trying out the swivels.





I also have my bike engined 4x4 racer for sale on eBay (too many toys !)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131210907904?ssPageNa...649#ht_525wt_1275


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teamidris
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Joined: 24 Feb 2008
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Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can tell me there is room for an engine and gearbox in the red one, and I've followed the build so I know there is, but it just doesn't like one will fit Smile
Looks like it should be electric?

The little feller is getting 20 hits an hour as I write this.

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swamijake
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Joined: 17 Jun 2014
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any updates? Can't wait to see it in action.
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Blue dragon
Just got MTs


Joined: 12 Mar 2009
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Location: Midlands UK



PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have completed the hydraulic hoses, 4 for warp, 6 for diff actuation, 6 for steering, 4 brake hoses, 6 breather hoses !



I had the transmission looked over, and the torque converter rebuilt and balanced. Notice the starter motor now pearched on top.



The transfer diff was a lot of work. Put simply, its a marriage of a Citroen drive flange and an inverted Lada carrier ... cheap parts but lots of machining.. Shocked



The pinion was a risky idea but actually worked out perfectly. The old Citroen pinion was cut off from the mainshaft (shown below) and the resulting sprocket was ground and the centre wire eroded out to fit onto the ZF spline. Luckily there was a hole up the centre, perfect to thread the wire through. The erosion cost £30 ! Bargain Very Happy and when done it slides perfectly over the output shaft with a light tap !! Very Happy Very Happy



I decided to run the engine on the bench first ... always a laught Laughing



Notice my fuel tank made from a jug, and take a look at all the wires I didn't connect to anything Rolling Eyes



It took a lot of tinkering to sort the wiring out, but finally she ran Very Happy . No Lambda sensor yet and I think my MAF is knackered so it ran very rich, but hey it lives ! Woke the neighbours up too.



Now ready to stuff up into the machine. With a few adjustments naturally ... remember that starter motor ... Evil or Very Mad



My mate and I thoroughly enjoyed KOV at the weekend ... well done Rob and Lee.

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FlatBlack
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Joined: 18 Feb 2013
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 11:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good to see progress being made on this. I am subscribed, but for some reason did not receive notifications on new posts Shocked

I am almost sure you guys have it in the UK, but here in the states, there is a huge aftermarket for the Subaru's and Evo's, so finding aftermarket ECU, competent shops and guys familiar with engine swaps, etc., should not be too terribly difficult.

Looking forward to seeing it running.

If all else fails search on NASIOC
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swamijake
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any update? Would love to see how it is going even if it has blown itself up.
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Blue dragon
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 10:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nearly there now: Cooling system, exhaust, fuel tank, air filter all done:



Sump guards buttoned up:



Steering pump and final wiring finished:



Brakes bled:



Some panel work, harnesses to go and I'm finally done Very Happy Very Happy


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teamidris
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 7:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There ought to be an award for 1:1 builds, like there is for model engineering Smile
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Blue dragon
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 9:41 pm    Post subject: Help ! Reply with quote

Any electronics gurus out there please. Engine starts and runs perfectly ( revs up nicely, runs smoothly) but cuts out every time after exactly 4 seconds. Interestingly, if I unplug the air meter it runs rough and rich but stays going for several minutes !! I'm baffled because the car came with a new MAF and I have now replaced this again with another new MAF. All ideas welcome !!!
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swamijake
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2014 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do subarus have an immobilizer? Sounds like the ecu is deciding to turn it off, also if you can get codes that will help.
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swamijake
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2014 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It looks like your donor could have used a transponder key type immobilizer. http://www.rjes.com/html/factory_fitted_immobilisers.html
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Blue dragon
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2014 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Swamijake

This is brilliant thank you. The good news is I have the matching transponder, key and immobiliser. Also mine appears to not be encrypted. I had a hunch this was the issue but I assumed the car would either run or not. I was confused that it would run for a few seconds but the VW site confirms this is what happens. Happiness is knowing the problem.

The bad news is there are 12 wires that were simply lost in the chassis harness and no one has a schematic available presumably to avoid people hot wiring. I need to find someone who can delete the hand shake requirement in the ECU or a wiring scheme.

Why are 12 wires needed ? I will go surfing ! Thanks again.

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swamijake
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2014 7:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any luck with the immo?
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rhinoman
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 8:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What year and model did the ECU come from? the Subaru ECUs have been quite well reverse engineered so an immo delete solution should be possible.
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2000 Vitara 4u2, 3+3 lift, 33s, winch, safari rack, steel front axle and 5:83 R&Ps, LWB brakes
1986 SJ413K Pickup, 1.6 conversion
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Blue dragon
Just got MTs


Joined: 12 Mar 2009
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Location: Midlands UK



PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 9:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi guys

I have resolved the immobilizer issue with help from the VW van guys. The ending runs well and sounds very potent Twisted Evil

The machine is completely finished and I am desperate to try it out, I have one remaining problem however, the ZF auto has no drive !!!!

Theory 1, the torgue converter won't refill with oil. The unit was completely dry, so I have filled the box to the breather and run the engine in all gears ... Still nothing

Theory 2, the firm that rebuilt the torque converter and changed the filter screwed up in some way?

Theory 3, the new bell housing is the wrong height so the pump shaft is not engaging into the torque converter .

Theory 4, my motor runs clockwise when viewed from the front pulley so to Range rovers with this box, but this actual unit came from a Daimler, they don't run anti clockwise do they ?

Theory 5, something wrong with the cooler piping ? I've simply replaced the cooler with a hose.

Theory 6' something wrong with the kick down or selector levers .

Frankly I'm baffled. All ideas welcome ... Damn thing !!

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Eclipsed4ever
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Joined: 05 May 2012
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2015 8:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad to hear it's all pretty much ready to go, a shame about the lack of drive though!

I'm certainly no autobox guru, here's my thoughts...

Theory 1: how much oil have you put into it? Was it enough to theoretically fill the box + torque converter from the manufacturer service specs? Might give an indication as to whether or not it's full?

Theory 2: You'd like to think a professional knows what they're doing, but it's always a possibility! Dunno how you've prove it though without stripping down Sad

Theory 3: I'd of thought you'd have to be a long way out to not engage at all. There's usually quite a long spline isn't there? Are there any test points to put a gauge? Or even remove a cooler pipe and start it up. If you have flow it must be engaged?

Theory 4: Very little stuff runs anti-clockwise. I don't suppose you have the original transfer box or anything to check input vs output rotation?

Theory 5: Should be fine.

Theory 6: As long as the selector feels like it is notching into each position I would think it would be fine. Have you put any 'shifter' kits in the box or fiddled with any valving or anything?

I really hope it's something simple so we can see how this beast performs!

__________________________________
2.2 Vtec 4WS Single Seater - aka Screamer - UK Champion 2013 + 2014
3.0lr V6 4WS - Screamer 2 - UK Champion 2015 + 2016 + 2017
Eurotrial 2nd in Prototype Class 2018
https://www.facebook.com/ScreamerOffroad
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