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L200 Wheel Lock Light?

 
 
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RobbyS
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Joined: 29 Apr 2008
Odometer: 7
Location: reading



PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 3:09 pm    Post subject: L200 Wheel Lock Light? Reply with quote

Hi,

I just got an L200 and the green 'Wheel Lock' light stays on permanently.

Is this normal? if its not, what is the problem likely to be? Will it cause any damage if I drive it like it?

Thanks,

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RobbyS
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Roofus
Just got MTs


Joined: 10 Apr 2006
Odometer: 171
Location: Dublin, Ireland


1992 Toyota Landcruiser

PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2008 1:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you definitely in 2 wheel drive??

The light should flash & then go out when selecting 2WD. If the lever is in 2H but the light remains on, jack the back axle up with a trolley jack, if the car still moves under its own steam....you're stuck in 4WD. Limit your driving!!!! Get it fixed, the consequences are expensive!

Incidentally.....the 4WD system is designed to fail with 4WD engaged!

Hope this helps!

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Larger than life & twice as ugly!

www.leinster4x4.ie
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RobbyS
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Joined: 29 Apr 2008
Odometer: 7
Location: reading



PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2008 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

Thanks for the reply. The lever is definitely in 2H. I'll carry out the check that you mentioned ASAP.

Is it likely to be stuck in 4H? If I put it in 4H a green Chassis symbol appears on the dash, then goes if I put it back in 2H. But the wheel lock light remains? Wouldn't being stuck in 4H mean the lever couldn't move?

Could it be something to do with the free wheeling hubs rather than the drive train?

Thanks again for the reply.

Rob Smart

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RobbyS
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RobbyS
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Joined: 29 Apr 2008
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Location: reading



PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2008 8:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I checked the 4 wheel drive. It is def in 2H.

Is there anything else it could be? What does the manual say about this light (I don't have a user manual)?

Thanks

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RobbyS
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Roofus
Just got MTs


Joined: 10 Apr 2006
Odometer: 171
Location: Dublin, Ireland


1992 Toyota Landcruiser

PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2008 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What age is the truck?? & do you mean the diff lock light??

I don't have a wheel lock light on mine!

Confused

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RobbyS
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Joined: 29 Apr 2008
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PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2008 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The truck is a 1997 single cab. It has a rear diff lock light on a rocker switch (it is orange when on) and the 4 wheel drive chassis symbol when in 4 wheel drive.

The light I'm talking about says "Wheel Lock" (in green) and is situated near to the glow plug/ ignition light cluster.

I assume that because it is green, then it might be OK, but this is quite an assumption.

Thanks

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RobbyS
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Roofus
Just got MTs


Joined: 10 Apr 2006
Odometer: 171
Location: Dublin, Ireland


1992 Toyota Landcruiser

PostPosted: Thu May 08, 2008 8:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Outside my scope of knowledge I'm afraid! But it sounds like its to do with your front hubs???

Really not sure though as mine's a 03 & doesn't have 'em! Confused

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Boro
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Joined: 23 Feb 2009
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2009 8:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We are having this problem. Did you manage to find the solution.

Thanks
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treeboa
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Joined: 02 Jan 2008
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Location: horden



PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

plunger switch on the front axel is prob stuck
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nomad
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Joined: 18 Jul 2009
Odometer: 2
Location: Middle-East & Asia



PostPosted: Sat Jul 18, 2009 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Friend complained about the same issue. Problem is solved. Main cause was a leak in the vacuum pressure supply line for switching the front axle hubs.

In this L200 (model 2000) the supply line was leaking vacuum pressure underneath the vacuum supply line for the power braking unit. Cause is wrong manufacturing. so engine vibrations cause the rubber vacuum pipe to wear.

The vacuum supply line in the picture is on the same plastic T-junction (not in picture) for the front axle hub solenoid. This vacuum supply line drives a solenoid for slightly higher stationary revs, probably when the AC switches on.



When the green "wheel lock" light is on the front axle rod is connected to the front wheels. In 2WD this causes a slightly higher wear of tires and front axle joints.

When vacuum pressure is OK the green "wheel lock" light goes off when the engine is started after the 4H lever is shifted to 2H.

To check if the front wheels are disconnect from the front axle rod; jack 1 front wheel up and turn the wheel by hand. The front axle rod underneath the chassis from the transfer case turns when the green "wheel lock" indicator is ON. When the indicator is OFF, the front axle rod doesn't turn in this case.

What a system Rolling Eyes

Cheers!

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Arno
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Long distance overland in Asia / Middle-East
http://www.nomadic-one.com/travel
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clogwise
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Joined: 15 Aug 2019
Odometer: 1




PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2019 5:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So ten years on, from the very car Arno discribed, one of the vaccuum solenoids has gone titty up.
This is the pack of two solenoids with 4 tubes going in and out them and two electrical connectors fitted below the air filter box. These fail quite a lot due to one of them being under constant voltage. The coil burns resulting in not retracting the frontfreewheel hubs. To test the solenoid pack to confirm before buying one again. With the solenoid pack disconnected both of the solenoids should have around 40 ohms resistance across the coil. If not -> replace. The connectors can be gently pried of using a small flat screwdriver
It might be a good idea to mark them before you remove them.

to replace, remove the air filter box, disconnect the turbo heat shield, and use a 10 ringspanner to loosen the two bolds retaining the rail holding the actuators
DO NOT! remove the vaccuum tubes just YET.

On the new set, use an angle grinder ( gently! ) to grind out the holes so they form a fork and can be taken out without having to remove the whole bold in the future.

Now on the car wrangle and wiggle the old solenoid set so that one can take the tubes of ONE by ONE and put them one the new set. This way you wil get is right the first time and not having to figure out wicht bloody tube goes where on the solenoids while you cannot reach them

reassemble.

Note! If you have big hands like have, get someone with smaller hands to help you! It is quite a large engine bay, however some parts are difficult to reach
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