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2000 WJ Rear Wheel Turning Binding?

 
 
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judderman3000
Just got MTs


Joined: 08 Jan 2009
Odometer: 226
Location: Rossendale


1990 Suzuki Samurai

PostPosted: Sun Jul 28, 2013 4:58 pm    Post subject: 2000 WJ Rear Wheel Turning Binding? Reply with quote

Hey guys,

Been a while since I have been on again but I am back into the 4x4 club this time with a Jeep (I used to be a Zuk man then a Frontera guy).

Anyway, I have a 4.7 V8 WJ Quadratrac with 114k and there is a noise I am getting very concerned about... I have only had the jeep a short while...

When I turn left or right at slow speeds I begin to get a binding/grinding noise, this noise almost sounds like a tyre rubbing but I know its not (I am all stock) If I am turning and I put the gas down the noise becomes less apparent.

Looks like the transfer case has been changed it looks brand new or at least rebuilt, I have changed out the control arms, upper and lower on the rear as they were worn, I was hoping this was the route of my issue but it's not...

I don't get the feeling its the diff or t-case but I could be wrong, could this be caused by bearings? Or even rear drum shoes being out of place?

Any advice taken with thanks!!!

Judd

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Judd
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minimog
Off-Road Guru


Joined: 25 Nov 2004
Odometer: 1700




PostPosted: Sun Jul 28, 2013 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the drive shafts are they c/v type or the uj type check the joints for wear or being siezed
Also as yours is permanent 4wd you will get a little due to it having a viscose coupling in the t case rather than a diff that could be locked (like on landrovers)

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WHAT YOUR ASKED WHEN YOU OWN A MOG
"why have you put a merc star on that"
UNIMOG MOTTO
"IF IT CARNT BE FIXED WITH A BIG HAMMER"
IT MUST BE AN ELECTRICAL FAULT"
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judderman3000
Just got MTs


Joined: 08 Jan 2009
Odometer: 226
Location: Rossendale


1990 Suzuki Samurai

PostPosted: Sun Jul 28, 2013 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's UJ type but they look in decent shape, there's not a lot of play and no unexpected noise if I put the TBox in Neutral and spin...

Could it even be the Viscous coupling? That's an expensive fix!

Thanks Tristan! Smile

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Judd
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jeepjeep
Just got MTs


Joined: 29 Dec 2009
Odometer: 101




PostPosted: Sun Jul 28, 2013 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

you may have a limited slip diff, ie dana 44. you can check by jacking up the rear, handbrake off and rotate a wheel, if other wheel rotates opposite is open diff, but if other wheel rotates same way then you have limited slip. This requires a friction modifier added.... if diff oil was changed and non added then it could cause this, also might need new diff plates.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/tj-dana-44-tr...modifier-1043329/
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minimog
Off-Road Guru


Joined: 25 Nov 2004
Odometer: 1700




PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2013 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your in the right place look up t-case swap to a 231 or if your feeling flush look up atlas t-case for the ultimate upgrade if you go the cheep route might aswell put the slip yoke eliminator
__________________________________
WHAT YOUR ASKED WHEN YOU OWN A MOG
"why have you put a merc star on that"
UNIMOG MOTTO
"IF IT CARNT BE FIXED WITH A BIG HAMMER"
IT MUST BE AN ELECTRICAL FAULT"
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judderman3000
Just got MTs


Joined: 08 Jan 2009
Odometer: 226
Location: Rossendale


1990 Suzuki Samurai

PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 11:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys!

Changed the diff oil today with FM drove figure 8's etc and still there, T-box still doesn't feel like the problem, I am going to change bearings and seals out at the weekend see if that doesn't fix it!

Tristan I don't know if I can warrant spending so much cash on a T-Box when there isn't even a lift on it yet haha!

I'll be looking for the best way to lift and get 33's under comfortably, it still needs to be a daily driver but off road capable Smile

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Judd
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jeepjeep
Just got MTs


Joined: 29 Dec 2009
Odometer: 101




PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

drum shoes next to check
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daggie
Articulating


Joined: 05 Dec 2003
Odometer: 973
Location: Bedfordshire



PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

take the front prop off to eliminate the t/case
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4.7 V8 Grand Cherry
2 x 4.0 Cherokees
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judderman3000
Just got MTs


Joined: 08 Jan 2009
Odometer: 226
Location: Rossendale


1990 Suzuki Samurai

PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 12:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys great idea, I'll check shoes Friday morning, I might as well change the bearings out now as they're ordered and you're right if that don't fix it I need to be trying to rule out the TBox so dropping front prop is a great idea!
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minimog
Off-Road Guru


Joined: 25 Nov 2004
Odometer: 1700




PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 7:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a word of warning just check which t-case you have (should be on a litte round tag on the back of the case) if its a 249 then is viscous coupling if its the 247 it has a different system ithink ive read somewhere that this one works differently and if you drop the front prop it damages the pump inside but im sure some one more nowlegable on jeeps will put me straight Wink
__________________________________
WHAT YOUR ASKED WHEN YOU OWN A MOG
"why have you put a merc star on that"
UNIMOG MOTTO
"IF IT CARNT BE FIXED WITH A BIG HAMMER"
IT MUST BE AN ELECTRICAL FAULT"
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judderman3000
Just got MTs


Joined: 08 Jan 2009
Odometer: 226
Location: Rossendale


1990 Suzuki Samurai

PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2013 5:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So still having the same problem...

The T-Case is the NV247 which uses a GearOTer pump to lock the front and rear drive train.

I have dropped the front driveshaft, so I can confirm that it's not the T-Case as there is no possibility of bind up as both outputs can turn freely and the oils have been changed.

The noise is still noticeably from the rear so I have ruled the front axle out.

I have changed out the Diff Oils, including Friction Modifier in the rear twice and it's not helped.

I can only think that the LSD on the rear is completely shot as if I find slippery ground one wheel can spin faster than the other...

Anyone agree or have any other ideas to what it could be?
My problem also is I don't really want to have to sink $400 into a used rear axle and I am definitely not comfortable rebuilding a LSD...

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yoss
Winch Assistant


Joined: 23 Mar 2008
Odometer: 56




PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2013 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

My xj diesel rear diff used to make a lot of noise, (banging and rubbing sounds) mostly when it was warm. tried the mopar additive,which didn't help.
I changed the diff oil to 75-150 fully synthetic and the noises have stopped.
that was 2 years and 30,000 miles ago..
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judderman3000
Just got MTs


Joined: 08 Jan 2009
Odometer: 226
Location: Rossendale


1990 Suzuki Samurai

PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2013 11:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tried 75w140 per manufacturer and friction modifier no help.

Not sure if related but got the ABS light on today... Nightmare!

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Judd
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scotty wong
Just got MTs


Joined: 22 Nov 2008
Odometer: 472
Location: kent



PostPosted: Tue Oct 15, 2013 5:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think your find somes buggerd the rear axle by not spending the few quid on the friction additive, its a shame so many do as so many garages never check what should be in it.they can be rebuilt but my bros was the same for about 30k and never broke so dont panic to much about it.
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if the truth can be told so as to understood it will be believed. jeep xj
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weasel
Just got MTs


Joined: 29 Dec 2012
Odometer: 167




PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 10:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been having a similar problem on my 4ltr XJ auto with the right hand front binding the axle seems to be ok without taking it apart I did find this about the T-case

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f5/binding-when-turning-73003/
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