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paulg Gate Opener
Joined: 02 Apr 2013 Odometer: 16 Location: Spain
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Posted: Fri Aug 23, 2013 7:53 pm Post subject: transmission oils
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Hello Chaps
Any views about using thicker oils in the axle / transfer box to lessen noise?
I'm in temps of 30C for most of the year.
Regards
Paulg
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gadgetboy Off-Road Guru
Joined: 03 Sep 2005 Odometer: 1947 Location: Belfast, N. Ireland
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Posted: Sat Aug 24, 2013 5:16 am Post subject:
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Stick with the recommended oils. See the back pages of the repair manuals. Download from http://www.ladaniva.co.uk
__________________________________ Move along. Nothing to see here. |
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Danie Winch Assistant
Joined: 23 Jan 2010 Odometer: 66 Location: Durban, South Africa
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Posted: Sat Aug 24, 2013 5:15 pm Post subject:
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Noise coming from a diff is a sure indication that something (most probably the bearings) is worn.
Rather strip the diff, and replace whatever is worn - and then use the correct oil as indicated above.
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Danie Winch Assistant
Joined: 23 Jan 2010 Odometer: 66 Location: Durban, South Africa
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Posted: Sun Aug 25, 2013 6:33 am Post subject:
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Just another thought - if any noise is coming from the rear axle, you should actually have a close look at the condition of the wheelbearings first.
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paulg Gate Opener
Joined: 02 Apr 2013 Odometer: 16 Location: Spain
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Posted: Sun Aug 25, 2013 11:59 am Post subject: Transmission oils
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Thanks guys!
paulg
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Red ant Winch Assistant
Joined: 18 Jan 2010 Odometer: 62
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Posted: Thu Aug 29, 2013 11:57 am Post subject:
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On the Castrol Australia website they list different oils to the ones in the book. GL5 80w 90 is what they recomend for aussie conditions. I could never make sense of any of the fluids in the book as they are all Russian.
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Danie Winch Assistant
Joined: 23 Jan 2010 Odometer: 66 Location: Durban, South Africa
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Posted: Fri Aug 30, 2013 4:54 am Post subject:
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I must admit, I also started using the thicker 85 / 140 oil in both diffs as recommended, but to my mind there is no need to use such thick oil if all diff components are still in good condition.
To my knowledge 85 W 90 oils gets used in most other vehicle's diffs locally - and I can't think about any reason why the requirement for Niva diffs should be any different.
I have recently inspected both my Niva's diffs properly, replaced whatever parts needed to be replaced and all components are in perfect condition - when I change oil again, I will rather start using 85W90 again.
To my mind most Niva diff problems are caused by oil leaks - oil levels often gets too low, and the components do not get lubricated properly. Rather make sure that those oil seals are not leaking, and that oil levels do not get too low...
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paulg Gate Opener
Joined: 02 Apr 2013 Odometer: 16 Location: Spain
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Posted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 6:37 pm Post subject: transmission oils
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Thnks Danie
when you rebuilt your diff did you have access to special tools for setting it up?
Paulg
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baxter Articulating
Joined: 08 May 2006 Odometer: 647 Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
1990 Lada Niva
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Posted: Wed Oct 09, 2013 12:50 am Post subject:
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Iirc Andy at Lada & Korean Parts Australia (who has never put me wrong on Niva advice) recommend an 85W/140 for hotter climates, and years ago when I was google translating Russian forums I think they liked 75W/140 for hotter places.
EDIT: note this advice is for diffs, not the transfer-case. My collected knowledge of Nivas and oils: http://ladaniva.co.uk/baxter/resources/Oil.htm
__________________________________ 1990 Niva 1600, 2" lift, LSD
www.ladaniva.co.uk/baxter -Baxter's Temple of Niva Site
If you do not have anything to occupy yourself - buy a Niva.
Last edited by baxter on Sat Oct 12, 2013 2:37 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Danie Winch Assistant
Joined: 23 Jan 2010 Odometer: 66 Location: Durban, South Africa
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Posted: Wed Oct 09, 2013 8:21 am Post subject: Re: transmission oils
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paulg wrote: | Thnks Danie
when you rebuilt your diff did you have access to special tools for setting it up?
Paulg |
"Iirc Andy at Lada & Korean Parts Australia (who has never put me wrong on Niva advice) recommend an 85W/140 for hotter climates, and years ago when I was google translating Russian forums I think they liked 75W/140 for hotter places."
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@ Paul
I don't have a dial guage to do the correct setting between the Crownwheel and Pinnion teeth - and I do not have any experiece with dial guages either. So last time when I did a diff rebuilt, I have used some thin paint at the Crownwheel teeth to do get the correct touching pattern between the Crownwheel and Pinnion teeth. At one stage I was very keen to buy and try a dial guage myself, but eventually took the diff to a professional company to do the correct settings.
During a diff rebuilt, it is very important to change all FOUR "spider gears", as well as the small pinnion shaft, and two copper spacers,( the complete set) when only one of these components seems to be worn. (When one component is worn, the others will be worn anyway).Specially the Pinnion Shaft (2101 2403060) is very important. By replacing all four Spider Gears and copper spacers with new ones, but re-installing an old (worn) Pinnion Shaft, is looking for trouble. The worn Pinnion axle will cause the two smaller Spider Gears to "wobble" - and this will easily cause teeth breakage.
@ Baxter
The main reason why I was considering a thinner oil, is beacuse of the resistance which can clearly be felt by hand when the ticker oil gets used, and the Propshaft Flange gets rotated by hand.I think this additional resistace might contrbute to poor fuel consumption, but I haven't done any tests to proof that.
And I must admit - I've got two very good Crownwheels with Pinnions, as well as new Bearings, and two complete sets of Spider gears lying around. So I've actually decided to push my luck with the thinner oil first, do fuel consumption tests, replace the thinner oil after 10 000km with thicker oil, and then do fuel consumption tests again. If there is no difference in fuel consumption, I will then stick to the thicker oils .
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