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judderman3000 Just got MTs
Joined: 08 Jan 2009 Odometer: 226 Location: Rossendale
1990 Suzuki Samurai
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Posted: Sun Jul 28, 2013 4:58 pm Post subject: 2000 WJ Rear Wheel Turning Binding?
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Hey guys,
Been a while since I have been on again but I am back into the 4x4 club this time with a Jeep (I used to be a Zuk man then a Frontera guy).
Anyway, I have a 4.7 V8 WJ Quadratrac with 114k and there is a noise I am getting very concerned about... I have only had the jeep a short while...
When I turn left or right at slow speeds I begin to get a binding/grinding noise, this noise almost sounds like a tyre rubbing but I know its not (I am all stock) If I am turning and I put the gas down the noise becomes less apparent.
Looks like the transfer case has been changed it looks brand new or at least rebuilt, I have changed out the control arms, upper and lower on the rear as they were worn, I was hoping this was the route of my issue but it's not...
I don't get the feeling its the diff or t-case but I could be wrong, could this be caused by bearings? Or even rear drum shoes being out of place?
Any advice taken with thanks!!!
Judd
__________________________________ Judd |
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minimog Off-Road Guru
Joined: 25 Nov 2004 Odometer: 1700
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Posted: Sun Jul 28, 2013 6:22 pm Post subject:
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On the drive shafts are they c/v type or the uj type check the joints for wear or being siezed
Also as yours is permanent 4wd you will get a little due to it having a viscose coupling in the t case rather than a diff that could be locked (like on landrovers)
__________________________________ WHAT YOUR ASKED WHEN YOU OWN A MOG
"why have you put a merc star on that"
UNIMOG MOTTO
"IF IT CARNT BE FIXED WITH A BIG HAMMER"
IT MUST BE AN ELECTRICAL FAULT" |
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judderman3000 Just got MTs
Joined: 08 Jan 2009 Odometer: 226 Location: Rossendale
1990 Suzuki Samurai
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Posted: Sun Jul 28, 2013 7:42 pm Post subject:
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It's UJ type but they look in decent shape, there's not a lot of play and no unexpected noise if I put the TBox in Neutral and spin...
Could it even be the Viscous coupling? That's an expensive fix!
Thanks Tristan!
__________________________________ Judd |
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jeepjeep Just got MTs
Joined: 29 Dec 2009 Odometer: 101
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Posted: Sun Jul 28, 2013 8:32 pm Post subject:
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you may have a limited slip diff, ie dana 44. you can check by jacking up the rear, handbrake off and rotate a wheel, if other wheel rotates opposite is open diff, but if other wheel rotates same way then you have limited slip. This requires a friction modifier added.... if diff oil was changed and non added then it could cause this, also might need new diff plates.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/tj-dana-44-tr...modifier-1043329/
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minimog Off-Road Guru
Joined: 25 Nov 2004 Odometer: 1700
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Posted: Mon Jul 29, 2013 6:46 pm Post subject:
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Your in the right place look up t-case swap to a 231 or if your feeling flush look up atlas t-case for the ultimate upgrade if you go the cheep route might aswell put the slip yoke eliminator
__________________________________ WHAT YOUR ASKED WHEN YOU OWN A MOG
"why have you put a merc star on that"
UNIMOG MOTTO
"IF IT CARNT BE FIXED WITH A BIG HAMMER"
IT MUST BE AN ELECTRICAL FAULT" |
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judderman3000 Just got MTs
Joined: 08 Jan 2009 Odometer: 226 Location: Rossendale
1990 Suzuki Samurai
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Posted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 11:36 pm Post subject:
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Thanks guys!
Changed the diff oil today with FM drove figure 8's etc and still there, T-box still doesn't feel like the problem, I am going to change bearings and seals out at the weekend see if that doesn't fix it!
Tristan I don't know if I can warrant spending so much cash on a T-Box when there isn't even a lift on it yet haha!
I'll be looking for the best way to lift and get 33's under comfortably, it still needs to be a daily driver but off road capable
__________________________________ Judd |
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jeepjeep Just got MTs
Joined: 29 Dec 2009 Odometer: 101
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Posted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 3:16 pm Post subject:
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drum shoes next to check
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daggie Articulating
Joined: 05 Dec 2003 Odometer: 973 Location: Bedfordshire
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Posted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 5:44 pm Post subject:
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take the front prop off to eliminate the t/case
__________________________________ 4.7 V8 Grand Cherry
2 x 4.0 Cherokees |
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judderman3000 Just got MTs
Joined: 08 Jan 2009 Odometer: 226 Location: Rossendale
1990 Suzuki Samurai
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Posted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 12:46 am Post subject:
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Thanks guys great idea, I'll check shoes Friday morning, I might as well change the bearings out now as they're ordered and you're right if that don't fix it I need to be trying to rule out the TBox so dropping front prop is a great idea!
__________________________________ Judd |
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minimog Off-Road Guru
Joined: 25 Nov 2004 Odometer: 1700
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Posted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 7:52 am Post subject:
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Just a word of warning just check which t-case you have (should be on a litte round tag on the back of the case) if its a 249 then is viscous coupling if its the 247 it has a different system ithink ive read somewhere that this one works differently and if you drop the front prop it damages the pump inside but im sure some one more nowlegable on jeeps will put me straight
__________________________________ WHAT YOUR ASKED WHEN YOU OWN A MOG
"why have you put a merc star on that"
UNIMOG MOTTO
"IF IT CARNT BE FIXED WITH A BIG HAMMER"
IT MUST BE AN ELECTRICAL FAULT" |
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judderman3000 Just got MTs
Joined: 08 Jan 2009 Odometer: 226 Location: Rossendale
1990 Suzuki Samurai
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Posted: Tue Oct 08, 2013 5:46 pm Post subject:
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So still having the same problem...
The T-Case is the NV247 which uses a GearOTer pump to lock the front and rear drive train.
I have dropped the front driveshaft, so I can confirm that it's not the T-Case as there is no possibility of bind up as both outputs can turn freely and the oils have been changed.
The noise is still noticeably from the rear so I have ruled the front axle out.
I have changed out the Diff Oils, including Friction Modifier in the rear twice and it's not helped.
I can only think that the LSD on the rear is completely shot as if I find slippery ground one wheel can spin faster than the other...
Anyone agree or have any other ideas to what it could be?
My problem also is I don't really want to have to sink $400 into a used rear axle and I am definitely not comfortable rebuilding a LSD...
__________________________________ Judd |
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yoss Winch Assistant
Joined: 23 Mar 2008 Odometer: 56
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Posted: Tue Oct 08, 2013 8:12 pm Post subject:
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Hi
My xj diesel rear diff used to make a lot of noise, (banging and rubbing sounds) mostly when it was warm. tried the mopar additive,which didn't help.
I changed the diff oil to 75-150 fully synthetic and the noises have stopped.
that was 2 years and 30,000 miles ago..
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judderman3000 Just got MTs
Joined: 08 Jan 2009 Odometer: 226 Location: Rossendale
1990 Suzuki Samurai
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Posted: Mon Oct 14, 2013 11:16 pm Post subject:
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Tried 75w140 per manufacturer and friction modifier no help.
Not sure if related but got the ABS light on today... Nightmare!
__________________________________ Judd |
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scotty wong Just got MTs
Joined: 22 Nov 2008 Odometer: 472 Location: kent
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Posted: Tue Oct 15, 2013 5:25 am Post subject:
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I think your find somes buggerd the rear axle by not spending the few quid on the friction additive, its a shame so many do as so many garages never check what should be in it.they can be rebuilt but my bros was the same for about 30k and never broke so dont panic to much about it.
__________________________________ if the truth can be told so as to understood it will be believed. jeep xj |
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weasel Just got MTs
Joined: 29 Dec 2012 Odometer: 167
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