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military and civvy rear power sockets

 
 
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foxhound
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Joined: 01 Mar 2013
Odometer: 11
Location: Sonning Common, too far NE of Teignmouth!



PostPosted: Fri Mar 01, 2013 4:35 pm    Post subject: military and civvy rear power sockets Reply with quote

Please can anyone help me answer this question?

I have a civvy 1995 300 TDI defender 110 with NATO tow hitch for my Sankey trailer. It has two standard civvy power sockets at the rear (12N and 12S) —trailer lights and 12V power from the spare battery. These sockets are always getting damaged because they are not flush with the rear cross-member and are fitted below the tow hitch (as per most civvy land rovers).

Do you know if it is possible to fit military trailer light sockets, with the sprung flat cover/flap, to my cross-member, ideally one either side of the tow hook? I would post a photo here if I knew how to do it ( can anyone help with that?)!

Assuming these military mounts and flaps are large enough for the inner part of 12N and 12S sockets, there are no suitable holes to use in my cross-member and I wonder if cutting the requisite holes would weaken the cross-member (do the army use reinforced cross-members or what?)

Many thanks in anticipation of your help and expert knowledge!

__________________________________
110 Defender 300tdi & Modified Sankey Widetrack Mk3
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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Fri Mar 01, 2013 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's two to knock off instead of one if you change to the 12 pin (does seem better socket).
I'd have thought you could screw the 12 pin or the 12n/s to the rear cross member as it is now (or all three)?

The only fix I found was to have a the 12s and 12n on a tail lead that lives inside. I only wing-nut their mount plate to the hitch when I am towing Very Happy
(Assuming door has big enough gap for cables)


PS. I'd weld a tube in for smart job. Fair bit of work I guess. What if the tube were external as a simple socket protector?

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bluesj
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Joined: 06 Feb 2006
Odometer: 1045
Location: East Sussex



PostPosted: Fri Mar 01, 2013 6:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I fitted mine inside the dixon bate hitch , but the i only had the one!
What part of the world are you from Foxhound, had a mate who,s cb handle was foxhound many years ago!

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The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese
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foxhound
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Joined: 01 Mar 2013
Odometer: 11
Location: Sonning Common, too far NE of Teignmouth!



PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 12:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bluesj wrote:
I fitted mine inside the dixon bate hitch , but the i only had the one!
What part of the world are you from Foxhound, had a mate who,s cb handle was foxhound many years ago!




Just moved from Devon to Oxfordshire - foxhound would be quite a common handle for any ex-infantrymen used to the 'old' arm indicators and radio appointment titles!

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110 Defender 300tdi & Modified Sankey Widetrack Mk3
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foxhound
Gate Opener


Joined: 01 Mar 2013
Odometer: 11
Location: Sonning Common, too far NE of Teignmouth!



PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

teamidris wrote:
That's two to knock off instead of one if you change to the 12 pin (does seem better socket).
I'd have thought you could screw the 12 pin or the 12n/s to the rear cross member as it is now (or all three)?

The only fix I found was to have a the 12s and 12n on a tail lead that lives inside. I only wing-nut their mount plate to the hitch when I am towing Very Happy
(Assuming door has big enough gap for cables)


PS. I'd weld a tube in for smart job. Fair bit of work I guess. What if the tube were external as a simple socket protector?


knowing me if i had a socket board on a cable either i or my dogs would rip it out! is cutting holes in the cross member a really bad idea re its structural integrity? good idea about an external tube, i'll think further on that! thanks.

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110 Defender 300tdi & Modified Sankey Widetrack Mk3
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teamidris
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Odometer: 3372
Location: Staffordshire UK



PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 7:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If ripping out is a risk, then cable tie the 8 core to a chain Very Happy

I put a pto tube in post-fabrication. It's a science of stress, but a 70%-of-structure hole isn't going to worry it badley.

Outside tube feels the safest mix of simples Cool

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