Joined: 24 Feb 2008 Odometer: 3372 Location: Staffordshire UK
Posted: Fri Dec 10, 2010 12:28 pm Post subject: Deluxe Aluminium Fairlead
Does your synthetic winch rope get all on one side of the drum during side pulls? Does it try to shove the tie bars off?
Then here is a simple but effective way of laying the rope where you want it
Simply two aluminium fairleads togther to form a 'sliding hawse'. In normal working the rope pays on where it wants. When the latch is set to the right or left, a section of the drum is masked off to the rope.
If you type teamidris into youtube you can see it working on our truck.
Some challenge venues have a mix of small stones and clay, which turn synthetic rope into a rope-saw. For these situations we're working on bolting a stainless fairlead directly onto the front of this aluminium unit. __________________________________ https://m.youtube.com/channel/UC3l3zoaCabKrgBSULSV1YgA
Another great idea __________________________________ Bert the Defender 110 XS - because it's Cool (work it out yourself!)
Lolita the Lightweight
???? the V8 90 CSW
Suzuki DL1000 V-Strom - yes that's right, I have a Zook!
Joined: 24 Feb 2008 Odometer: 3372 Location: Staffordshire UK
Posted: Thu Mar 17, 2011 8:13 pm Post subject:
See the amazing Sliding Hawse at the 4x4 show this weekend at Stafford UK
I polished it on the mop at work so its really shiny __________________________________ https://m.youtube.com/channel/UC3l3zoaCabKrgBSULSV1YgA
You lift the peg and move it to one side or fully to one side. We looked at mechanical feed, but a 90 degree pull would need a 4.5 tonne feed mechanism
Many folks would argue that re-reeving the rope does the same thing, but re-reeving by hand puts the rope on with no tension. Then tensioned rope can drop though the wrap and jam.
It's a real time saver on winch challenge, as you only stop winching for long enough to take the weight off and clack it over And it lets you run a full rope load on a standard drum. Come to think of it, it lets you run a full rope load on a deep drum! I've got a full load on TypeR milemarker most of the time!
For steel wire and that gritty clay you get, bolt a stainless fairlead on the front. There's plenty of metal depth in the slide to drill and tap M10. If we get a lot of inquiries for these, I'll draw up a pre-drilled unit.
Joined: 24 Feb 2008 Odometer: 3372 Location: Staffordshire UK
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 7:03 pm Post subject:
I'm thinking of a winch mount plate to go with the drop-pin-fairlead. (to use all six M10 holes) I see a few basic universal-mounting-plates on Ebay. Have you any requirements you would like adding to a 6mm lazer cut and bent part?
I was thinking maybe 2 holes on the front so you can weld a 'U' thing on, or a pair of holes to take those swivel recovery point (biggish hole) and maybe some slots underneath for a bridle chain? Or all 3? And a big hole under the drum bit to let mud out!
Definately some 8mm holes about the top edge for lamp brakets and cable ties
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