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Expandable foam waterproof ? Protect sills, A pillers?

 
 
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bigredzook
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 7:57 pm    Post subject: Expandable foam waterproof ? Protect sills, A pillers? Reply with quote

This might be a daft questions but ive been out looking at my vitara today and im thinking about putting some plastic or rubber of some sort around the wheel arches to help protect against rust and all the s**t that ends up there Smile. When i was looking i found 2 hole in one of my sills ? Now its looks like their supposed to be there ( 2 square holes )

Now i was thinking if / when i drive through water surly water will get into the sills and eventually rust them ? Yeah its a pain but i could live with replacing my sills as ill be running covers on them so wont have to match the pain work etc but if water / moisture is getting in there could it not eventually end up rusting up into the A pillers and everywhere else on the body ? which would be a pain!

So i was thinking as my sills are currently open could i fill them with some wax oil or something along thoses lines then drive back and forward etc so most of it comes back out. Then a can or 2 Smile of expanable foam then re weld / seal it back up again .

My reason for doing / thinking this :

It means that moisture SHOULDNT get into the sills from any where and if it did the foam / oil should prevent it from rusting from the inside .

It will prevent the rest of the body getting ate from the inside by rust should water get into the sills.

I know its a suzuki and the sills may / will need replacing again at some point but its the places like a piller / roof etc that i dont want to be welded up the re painted etc so would like to protect them and rater things rusted from the outside so i can fix the source rather than rusting from the inside out so by the time i see it it may be too late.

Understand what i mean ? would this work ?
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weldingscotty803
Just got MTs


Joined: 28 Apr 2010
Odometer: 275
Location: chesterfield


1996 Suzuki Vitara

PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if the sills are in rubbish condition the the expanding foam with swell so much it will split and weak points. its a bad idea IMHO as there will be tiny air pockets that will hold moisture inside the foam. plus its flammable.
if i was in your position i'd box section the sills and clean the arches back and repair as necessary

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I thought i could see the light, then i noticed i had arc eye!
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bigredzook
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 8:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

weldingscotty803 wrote:
if the sills are in rubbish condition the the expanding foam with swell so much it will split and weak points. its a bad idea IMHO as there will be tiny air pockets that will hold moisture inside the foam. plus its flammable.
if i was in your position i'd box section the sills and clean the arches back and repair as necessary


thanks for the quick reply Smile.

The sills only got done last year so are fine just now Smile.

It was more i was thinkign the A pilliars and the front must be a big open gap inside then all the way down to the sill so if theres moisture in the sills it could over time eventually eat my whole car from the inside ?
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muddymesser
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Joined: 17 Jun 2008
Odometer: 7819
Location: preston



PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 8:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

you want to weld oil and fill it with foam with more moisture traps

box section sills . . . stronger, jack-able (depending on your body mounts) and you can make them any size you like

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bigredzook
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

muddymesser wrote:
you want to weld oil and fill it with foam with more moisture traps

box section sills . . . stronger, jack-able (depending on your body mounts) and you can make them any size you like



Ok ill take all your advice and just go straight in with the weld and stop pi****g about Smile.

Shall get started this week Smile
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Tim Pink
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Joined: 20 Dec 2002
Odometer: 1938




PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have tried this to prevent mud ingress/buildup. Moisture gets between the sheet steel and the foam, causing rust to get a hold. When you do have to weld it is nasty stuff giving off very toxic fumes when burnt. It was not the best idea I ever had!

Tim
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mnl
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Joined: 10 Nov 2001
Odometer: 826
Location: West Midlands



PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 9:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There should be drain holes in the bottom of the sills to let the water out.

Just spray waxoyl/dinitrol inside and wait for them to rust enough to need replacement again Shocked

I'm not impressed with waxoyl or dinitrol, but I didn't leave parts uncovered as a control to see if they are any more rusty, although it is hard to imagine that steel could rust any more and still be recognisable Confused
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bigredzook
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 9:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mnl wrote:
There should be drain holes in the bottom of the sills to let the water out.

Just spray waxoyl/dinitrol inside and wait for them to rust enough to need replacement again Shocked

I'm not impressed with waxoyl or dinitrol, but I didn't leave parts uncovered as a control to see if they are any more rusty, although it is hard to imagine that steel could rust any more and still be recognisable Confused


Does the sills not go from the rear to the front then up the inside of the wing then join ontot he A Pillars, then along the roof and back down is it not one all enclosed unit so in effect if youg et water / moisture in one bit the whole car could end up rusting from the insde out ?
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scut44
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is not a serious post & is a bit of a simplification & mixing and matching science, because i was only a car sprayer, & for a while an industrial sprayer doing North sea work & probably have been doing it wrong for ever.

Before that at school i did Metal Work & got an o'level & listened to the principles from the teacher.
Also listened in the science classes.
(sorry never listened to the English teacher)

On planet earth, Water runs down. (Gravity & capillary action ensures this)
In the Uk we have a relatively dry climate & days above 10 degrees mostly & not that much condensation inside our vehicles bodies.
Mostly it gathers where trapped & on dirt etc. Bare unprotected metal just encourages that on most types of metal.

Cavities have breather holes usually.
& low points have drain holes.

You can make a sealed metal tube, but the air & hence moisture must be excluded by removing it first,
& that is not how cars are built,
so the metal gets coated with paint.

All metal goes back to earth come time.
Ashes to ashes, dust to dust.
Infact everything returns to the ground come time.

Bridges & ships submerged in salt water have sacrificial metal pieces.
(these are lumps of metal that corrode first)
& also a form of electronic balancing to reduce rust & corrosion is taking effect.
Suzuki Vitaras have sacrificial sills.

SPAM told you what to do,
so you might as well do it.

george

.
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johnniehec
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Joined: 14 Oct 2009
Odometer: 26
Location: FINZEAN Aberdeenshire



PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 10:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know a guy who many moons ago filled his Diahatsu A pillars with concrete!!
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scut44
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 11:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Idea
He probably installed a 'damp course' because there is my water flowing down disproved already.
It would have gone up his concrete pillar.

We should remember the experiment with the sugar cubes & red food colouring.
Then building the sugar cube wall with the strip of plastic above the water line.

george

.
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jeepmadmike
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 08 May 2005
Odometer: 4573
Location: between 6000+7000 rpm and Devon



PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alfa romeo used a expanding foam in many cavities on the AlfaSud

thats why you dont see many of them anymore

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Land Rovers are the root of all evil!

Now i have gone and bought a D4!

one day i might buy a 86" series one like my dad had when i was a boy.
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Twiss
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 18 Feb 2008
Odometer: 6438
Location: Birkirkara, Malta


1993 Suzuki Samurai

PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would just go for the drill holes in the bottom of the sill option!!!
If you're putting your own box section sills on maybe you could put them at a slight angle, so the corner of the box acts as a channel. have the box slightly higher at one end so the water will run out of the sill?

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Twiss
'95 Samurai 416 16v
'92 Maruti Gypsy MG410
www.suzukiclubuk.co.uk
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gords1001
Mud Obsessed


Joined: 12 Dec 2006
Odometer: 2853
Location: astley



PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 11:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just capped and sealed the ends of the box section, 3/16" or 1/4" wall box section will out last the rest of the bodywork at any rate. Plus the heat you put in when welding should evaporate most moisture off, if you've capped and sealed properly then you should be fine. Cool
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you know will do it in ten minutes but he`s busy!
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bigredzook
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

just welded up the back of the sills. Had to move it back 2 inches so all ready for 35's next year Smile
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