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404 multiple questions!

 
 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Difflock Forum Index -> Mercedes & Unimog
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bangertrack
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Joined: 13 Aug 2011
Odometer: 17




PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 8:30 pm    Post subject: 404 multiple questions! Reply with quote

Hello again,

My recently aquired 404 has some issues - any help / opinions appreciated.

1) What is the purpose on the bar on the front steering mounted just below the front axle diff lock to the steering link between the two front wheels? Would this be a good position to mount a hydraulic ram if wanted to full hydraulic steering??

2) 2.2 litre petrol engine front exhaust manifold has completely fractured between the connection to the inlet manifold and no 2 exhaust port. I am going to try to weld it together. I have drilled a plate and fixed all inlet and exhaust manifolds to it in readiness for welding. I am wondering if it is necessary to have the manifold connected to the inlet manifold - I don't expect it is really necessary in our climate? I wonder if the front manifold cracks because of it being connected to the inlet and not being able to move?? The rear manifold if fine?? Any opinions on what spec rods to use for the welding? I do not plan to heat the casting.

3)What is the accepted route for removing the exhaust downpipe from the vehicle?

That is it for the moment
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johnhughes
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Joined: 01 Dec 2009
Odometer: 40




PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 11:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the exhaust is supposed to twist around the donut mounted on the Y pipe. has the bolts on the triangular ring been tightened too far stopping all movement? the easiest way to drop a 404 exhaust is to remove it from the rear going forward, the silencer normally drops off easily as its a compression joint just cut the 3 bolts? the S pipe is a interference fit inside the Y pipe and doesnt come apart without a major fight as it rusts solid at the joint. the manifold joints require lots of WD40 (other lubricants are available) and the triangular plate to be removed exposing the donut. the Y pipe can extend up to a inch inside the manifold and needs to be pulled straight out.

j
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bangertrack
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Joined: 13 Aug 2011
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 6:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I managed to get the exhaust manifolds off the engine and out - you are right, the Y pipe extended approx 1 inch into the manifolds - had ahell of a job pulling them clear! The Y pipe fouling on the rear cab brackets etc but managed it.

I am just strugglin to get the Y pipe out of the vehicle - cannot seem to slide it backwards past the starter and gearbox. I was wondering if it has to go out of the bonnet?

Thanks for thoughts
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dxmedia
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Joined: 10 Dec 2008
Odometer: 2185




PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 7:43 am    Post subject: Re: 404 multiple questions! Reply with quote

bangertrack wrote:

1) What is the purpose on the bar on the front steering mounted just below the front axle diff lock to the steering link between the two front wheels? Would this be a good position to mount a hydraulic ram if wanted to full hydraulic steering??



Have you a photo? I've just looked under the front of mine and there's the drag link on the steering, there's the tie rod behind the axle and below the diff lock lever there is a damper. I can't see a bar and if the damper was replaced with a bar then I can't see how the steering would operate. Are you planning on ever driving this on the road? If so full hydraulic steering is illegal in a lot of countries.

Quote:
2) 2.2 litre petrol engine front exhaust manifold has completely fractured between the connection to the inlet manifold and no 2 exhaust port. I am going to try to weld it together. I have drilled a plate and fixed all inlet and exhaust manifolds to it in readiness for welding. I am wondering if it is necessary to have the manifold connected to the inlet manifold - I don't expect it is really necessary in our climate? I wonder if the front manifold cracks because of it being connected to the inlet and not being able to move?? The rear manifold if fine?? Any opinions on what spec rods to use for the welding? I do not plan to heat the casting.


I've welded the cold running valve closed. It's not a direct connection between the inlet and exhaust rather a crude heat exchanger. My front manifold was in the same condition as yours, I ended up buying a whole engine for £50 for it's manifold. Welding shouldn't be an issue if you heat it first and let it cool very slowly over several hours. If your not planning on doing this, you might as well just buy a decent used manifold from vk-cars and save the hassle of stripping the whole thing out in a few weeks time when the welds crack. New manifold gaskets are about £6 iirc, not worth messing about with the old one for that.

I've never pulled the whole exhaust system off, but I can well imagine that the way mogs are put together you'll have to take the cab off, the engine, both axles and shake the chassis upside down to get it out.
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bangertrack
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Joined: 13 Aug 2011
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It was the damper I was referring to. Having looked at it this evening, I think the bracket near the difflock looks week. The ram would have to be very short to fit as well. I will look into it.

I will have to look into the legality issues - the machine is classed as agricultural and may agricultural vehicles have fully hydraulic steering.

Thanks for the info on VT-Cars - I rang him today and he is to supply a competed front exhaust still connected to an inlet manifold so no expensive gasket required. He has new front exhaust manifolds in stock at very reasonable cost I thought. You are right about it being the economical way - the welding rods were going to cost £25ish!

Still haven't managed toget the exhaust downpipe out - I guess the vehicl was built around it at the factory.

Thanks again, Will
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dxmedia
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Joined: 10 Dec 2008
Odometer: 2185




PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 9:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fully hydraulic are limited to 25mph IIRC.

Have a look into a mini or a corsa (I think) steering column. The power steering is an electric motor in the column so would be quite a simple hack to get power steering into a mog using one.
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