FORUM CLASSIFIEDS DIFFLOCK.com Links & Networks
Forum Homepage
Log in
Profile
Search
Private Messages
Forum Members
Register
Classified Ads
Search Ads
Place New Ad
My ads
Place your classified
ads here for FREE
NB: Adverts placed in the general
forum areas will be deleted
Difflock Homepage
Online Shop
Contact Us
FAQ
Calendar
Garage
Facebook
Twitter
Youtube
Advertise With Us - Reach your target market by advertising on the Difflock.com forum.
Click here or call 0845 125 9407


Anti-vibration upgrades with some graphs

 
 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Difflock Forum Index -> Lada
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
JamesLaugesen
Just got MTs


Joined: 15 Dec 2008
Odometer: 109
Location: Sydney, Australia


1992 Lada Niva

PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 10:16 am    Post subject: Anti-vibration upgrades with some graphs Reply with quote

Hi everyone!

Here's some rough vibration graphs, which I'm hoping will make for an interesting comparison after some upgrades.

These were recorded with an iPhone 4 (3-axis accelerometer), laying on the gearbox-tunnel cover, held with a velcro strap.

The Niva is a 1992 1600 in good condition, with everything correctly aligned, balanced, tightened & greased, no cracks near gearbox & TC mounts, all new bushes and rubber mounts, etc.
The body has ~20mm of new insulation + 15mm extra under the plastic gearbox tunnel cover, plus some foam on top of the plastic. So the high-frequency vibration/sound through the body & plastic is minimal.

All samples are 5.12 seconds at 50Hz with compensation for gravity.
Car is raised on stands and suspension hanging at full extension, so wheels are free to spin.

I repeated each sample 4 times over a couple of days just to minimize anomalies.
The results were very consistent so I didn't bother averaging them.

First some baselines with the gearbox output disengaged:

~600rpm (slowest smooth idle I could get), gearbox neutral;


3000rpm, gearbox neutral;


With the gearbox in gear and the transfer-case in neutral, so the doughnut is spinning:

3000rpm, gearbox 1st, transfer-case neutral;

I can't explain the changing pattern, it happened every time I did this sample. I guess there might be a pattern if I took a longer sample.

3000rpm, gearbox 4th, transfer-case neutral;


3000rpm, gearbox 5th, transfer-case neutral;


Now the dangerous ones ( Laughing ), in gear, transfer-case in high range, with diff locked (so all 4 wheels are spinning equally):

3000rpm, 1st gear, high-range, all wheels spinning;


3000rpm, 4th gear, high-range, all wheels spinning;


3000rpm, 5th gear, high-range, all wheels spinning;


0rpm to 3000rpm to 0rpm, 5th gear, high-range, all wheels spinning;



I think the Z-axis (yellow) is stronger due to the phone being held down by a strap.
These clearly show the increase in vibration due to the gearbox/transfer-case connection, and again with the wheels spinning.
I thought of doing another test with the wheels removed, but they've just been balanced with new tyres so I don't think they're significant.


Next I'm installing these new gadgets one-by-one, and will re-do the same tests each time;

That's a rear drive shaft with CVs, intermediate joint with CV (just the standard one from late model nivas), and front axle disconnect unit.

These are from LadaWorld.com. Stig is a good guy, have no fear about shopping from the other side of the world.
He's better to deal with than most of the russian sellers, and I guess he doesn't have the same export concerns too, because my stuff arrived within a couple of weeks (including a stop in our customs.).

I was also thinking of recording some other cars for comparison, if I have time.
So lemmie know if you're particularly interested in seeing them.
I could do my Jackaroo (Isuzu Trooper), holdem commodore VL, bently turbo R and a few jags.
I think It'd be cool to see the Bently comparison haha.

Cheers
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website MSN Messenger
JamesLaugesen
Just got MTs


Joined: 15 Dec 2008
Odometer: 109
Location: Sydney, Australia


1992 Lada Niva

PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 10:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ps, here's Stig's comment regarding the products he sells that could potentially reduce vibration/noise.

Quote:
The Vibration-priority is like this:

A) 40% CV-joint intermediate shaft (between gearbox & transfer-case)

B) 40% Rear propeller shaft with CV-joints

C) 5% Front axle disconnect

D) 5% Independant Front Differential support

E) 5% Front propeller shaft with CV-joints

F) 1% Reinforced output bearing for transfer-case


A+B+E+F Removes the vibrations

C+D Blocks the transmition of sounds (all sounds are vibrations)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website MSN Messenger
baxter
Articulating


Joined: 08 May 2006
Odometer: 647
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand


1990 Lada Niva

PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 5:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, I'm totally betting on the CV between the 'box and TC making the biggest difference. Smile
__________________________________
1990 Niva 1600, 2" lift, LSD
www.ladaniva.co.uk/baxter -Baxter's Temple of Niva Site
If you do not have anything to occupy yourself - buy a Niva.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
JamesLaugesen
Just got MTs


Joined: 15 Dec 2008
Odometer: 109
Location: Sydney, Australia


1992 Lada Niva

PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 5:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

baxter wrote:
Yep, I'm totally betting on the CV between the 'box and TC making the biggest difference. Smile


Yeah me too.

Any suggestion on what order I should do things in?

I'm thinking; CV drive shaft first, then CV between 'box & TC, then axle disconnect.
That would show if the CV drive shaft gives an improvement on it's own.
And the CV between 'box & TC is tested with the TC in neutral, so drive shaft is irrelevant.

Obviously the axle disconnect wont make any difference in 4wd, and will be difficult/unlikely to demonstrate with no load on the wheels, so that will be last and I'll do a test with rear wheels spinning just for interest.

I think we can assume that any measurable improvements would be exaggerated in real world driving, with torque moving things out of alignment, etc.

I don't have any roads nearby which are smooth enough to do an accurate on-road vibration test, so that will just be a seat-of-the-pants verdict.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website MSN Messenger
Neil Chowney
Just got MTs


Joined: 11 Jul 2008
Odometer: 217
Location: Whitchurch Hampshire



PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 5:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why doe sthe rear prop have a saving of 40% yet the front, which is basically the same, only has 5%?

Is this specifically for your car and is therefore an indication of the overall condition of the joints you already have fitted?

This is very interesting though, I have often wondered where the vibes came from.

The transfer case UJ/CV replacement will also get my vote as well.

Incidentally, how much are the parts?

CV, Doughnut, rear prop?

__________________________________
Land Rover Freelander 2 SE.

Rear diffs howling agian...... Good old LR genuine parts.... Less than a year on a fully recon unit....
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website MSN Messenger Skype NameeBay Name
JamesLaugesen
Just got MTs


Joined: 15 Dec 2008
Odometer: 109
Location: Sydney, Australia


1992 Lada Niva

PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Neil Chowney wrote:
Why doe sthe rear prop have a saving of 40% yet the front, which is basically the same, only has 5%?

Is this specifically for your car and is therefore an indication of the overall condition of the joints you already have fitted?

This is very interesting though, I have often wondered where the vibes came from.

The transfer case UJ/CV replacement will also get my vote as well.

Incidentally, how much are the parts?

CV, Doughnut, rear prop?


Stig doesn't know about my car (other than it being a 1600), so I guess his comments are general for all Niva's with the UJ-Doughnut (I think all 1700's have the CV-Doughnut?).

I also expected the front to be close to equal, especially with so much talk about the diff mount, diff moving out of alignment when the engine is under load, etc.

Difference is probably because the rear prop is on a steeper angle and is longer.
Stig's 40% probably also considers driving under load, over bumps, etc.
Then the rear prop is moving with suspension, causing the UJs to "change velocity", which might cause extra vibration on it's own, or might 'wiggle' the TC around enough to stress the doughnut & exaggerate vibration there... maybe, all speculation.

I was torn between the front CV prop or axle disconnect.
Stig's comment made the decision easy (and saved a couple hundred bucks Cool).

My car is in pretty good condition, body is straight with no cracking near mounts.
The engine is rough, almost everything else (including props & UJs) is new or recently rebuilt, balanced, greased, etc.

I'm sure that generally the vibes are a result of the whole car working in unison hahaha.
A new perfectly set up Niva is probably much nicer to drive, but it seems like they don't age well in the vibration department.
So I'm hoping that these parts will reduce stresses through the driveline (and thus body) and let the whole car work together happily Smile

Parts cost around AU$850 + ~$150 for shipping from Lada World (in Denmark).
I compared prices and Stig almost halved the others, even with shipping around the world.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website MSN Messenger
JamesLaugesen
Just got MTs


Joined: 15 Dec 2008
Odometer: 109
Location: Sydney, Australia


1992 Lada Niva

PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 9:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CV prop shaft is on the rear.

3000rpm, 4th gear, high-range, all wheels spinning;

BEFORE:


AFTER:



3000rpm, 5th gear, high-range, all wheels spinning;

BEFORE:


AFTER:



I re-did "before" tests 3 times each and got close to exactly the same results as in the original post.
Then I re-did the "after" tests 3 times each and got the same (in terms of RMS) results each time.

There's a clear reduction (significantly lower RMS Mag.), which is kinda cool.

It's interesting that the X axis (red) has increased. I suspect that it's something to do with how I placed the phone this time, but I re-did it a few times after repositioning and got the same result, so I dunno.


BUT there's a problem!
After the tests I checked the new CV prop and found the TC-side flanges (on the CV & TC output shaft) were very hot.
So I'm concerned that the CV might not be greased (unlikely, it felt pretty smooth), otherwise the almost new TC output shaft bearing is probably dead, which means all these tests are stuffed!

I'll remove the prop and do some tests without it to try to gauge how much the TC output contributes to the vibrations recorded so far.

Bugga! Laughing
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website MSN Messenger
simonallen
Off-Road Guru


Joined: 05 Jan 2006
Odometer: 1019
Location: In the s**t most of the time...


1997 Lada Niva

PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thos cv's do get hot. My v6 niva, the gearbox mount collapsed and cause the back end of it to drop down. I bodged it to get me going again but the transfer box was out of alignment. By the time I had done the 50 miles to get home, the cv joint had boiled it's grease out and was making a horrible noise. They just aren't made for running at an angle and I fear that if you're running a lift as well their lifespan will not be very long at all. Over here I think they are £80 a joint as well, so not cheap by any means!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
JamesLaugesen
Just got MTs


Joined: 15 Dec 2008
Odometer: 109
Location: Sydney, Australia


1992 Lada Niva

PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

simonallen wrote:
Thos cv's do get hot. My v6 niva, the gearbox mount collapsed and cause the back end of it to drop down. I bodged it to get me going again but the transfer box was out of alignment. By the time I had done the 50 miles to get home, the cv joint had boiled it's grease out and was making a horrible noise. They just aren't made for running at an angle and I fear that if you're running a lift as well their lifespan will not be very long at all. Over here I think they are £80 a joint as well, so not cheap by any means!


That's a good point about the angle.
I don't intend to ever do a lift, which is part of the reason I decided to try the CV shaft.

With the suspension at full extension, the shaft is close to touching the rubber boot, so I wouldn't recommend using them with a lift even if the joint is mechanically capable of more angle.

After the little 5 minute test I did, the TC-side CV was hot, but the diff-side CV was only slightly warm. So I assume it's the TC output shaft creating the heat.
I'll find out tomorrow Smile
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website MSN Messenger
JamesLaugesen
Just got MTs


Joined: 15 Dec 2008
Odometer: 109
Location: Sydney, Australia


1992 Lada Niva

PostPosted: Mon Apr 04, 2011 10:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a quick update, I've driven a couple of KM of windy hilly roads with the CV-prop (still haven't installed the other stuff) and there is a definite improvement.

Noticeably less vibration during acceleration and engine-breaking.

Unfortunately I don't have any smooth roads nearby to get any meaningful on-road measurements, so I can't prove it.

I've got a few urgent things to sort out for renewing rego, then I'll get back into this stuff.


Last edited by JamesLaugesen on Sun Apr 10, 2011 10:01 pm; edited 2 times in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website MSN Messenger
nivapulledout
Just got MTs


Joined: 30 Nov 2008
Odometer: 363
Location: high seas or New Zealand



PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool work James.

I was keen on getting these cardin/CV shafts as well but forgot all about them. I have done a lift as well so the angle will be increased on the rear.Sad

However I never knew the newer Nivas had a CV donut, and did not really want to go to the hassel of making one out of a SPAM CV.
How much was the shipping to Aussie?

will keep an eye on your results, I think you will get the biggest difference from the TC-GB CV joint.

__________________________________
1986 1600 Niva
1.9 TD Pug,2" lift,Air lockers front and rear,Steel front diff, 31" Silverstone Extremes
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
JamesLaugesen
Just got MTs


Joined: 15 Dec 2008
Odometer: 109
Location: Sydney, Australia


1992 Lada Niva

PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2011 10:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nivapulledout wrote:
Cool work James.

I was keen on getting these cardin/CV shafts as well but forgot all about them. I have done a lift as well so the angle will be increased on the rear.Sad

However I never knew the newer Nivas had a CV donut, and did not really want to go to the hassel of making one out of a SPAM CV.
How much was the shipping to Aussie?

will keep an eye on your results, I think you will get the biggest difference from the TC-GB CV joint.


Cheers

I've had a better look at the CV'd rear prop with the TC removed, and I think my predictions of limited angle were wrong. With one end connected to the diff, the other end is able to rest on the ground with (seemingly) little pressure in the joint (felt by rotating the prop & wheels by hand while adjusting rear brake shoes).

I haven't measured exactly how far it's dropping, but the car is on chassis stands with 29" tyres (lets say ~37cm radius) about 10cm off the ground, and with the offset of the pinion, it might be dropping around say ~40-45cm.

Stig has the CVs on his trials Niva, which I'm sure is lifted, so shoot him a question if you're interested in them.

Shipping for everything I got was ~AU$90 I think.
For the CV donut alone would be about AU$66, so ~AU$270 all up.


I've installed the front-axle disconnect unit to the TC, it bolted up easily, it is manufactured by Lada and clearly good OEM quality.
Also replaced some gaskets while I was there (interestingly most of the gearbox-side gaskets were leaking, while the non-gearbox side had no leaks).
Oh and I checked the output bearing that I thought might be shot, but it's fine Very Happy, maybe a tiny bit loose, but nothing to worry about.

Now for the stupid part(!!)... seconds away from installing the CV-donut & TC, but I decided change the GB oil first...
So I run the gearbox (with TC removed) in gear for a minute to warm the oil up, and BOOM! Shocked.
Apparently I had already bolted the new CV-donut to the gearbox! F%$k.
So the CV was thrown off it's spline, tearing the boot and launching itself into the GB tunnel.

The CV doesn't appear to be damaged so hopefully I can get a new boot from Andy, and get everything back together without upsetting the balance.

On the positive side, the CV-donut was extremely well balanced, I had no idea it was there until it came apart Laughing.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website MSN Messenger
nivapulledout
Just got MTs


Joined: 30 Nov 2008
Odometer: 363
Location: high seas or New Zealand



PostPosted: Fri Apr 15, 2011 8:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can feel another purchase coming up (if I can sneak it past the wifey) Very Happy Shocked
__________________________________
1986 1600 Niva
1.9 TD Pug,2" lift,Air lockers front and rear,Steel front diff, 31" Silverstone Extremes
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
JamesLaugesen
Just got MTs


Joined: 15 Dec 2008
Odometer: 109
Location: Sydney, Australia


1992 Lada Niva

PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 11:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

CV-donut joint is back together and installed with the TC.
I didn't align the TC "properly" because I want to compare rough alignment vs careful alignment.
So I just found the combinations of spacers which I have available which gave the most freely-spinning CV-donut joint, then ran it for a while to let the TC find it's place.

3000rpm, gearbox 5th, transfer-case neutral;

BEFORE (TC carefully aligned with unbalanced UJ-donut in good condition);


AFTER (TC roughly aligned with new ex-balanced CV-donut);

Clearly a big improvement ay, RMS Magnitude down from 0.299g to 0.137g Very Happy
I've written the new CV-donut as "ex-balanced" because my destruction & reconstruction has probably upset it's balance.

Now comparing the 'after', with the original "3000rpm, gearbox neutral;"

RMS Mag down from 0.168g to 0.137g... that's interesting, but not statistically significant because these measurements should have a margin of error around 0.05g.
It has got me thinking though, so I'll do another 'after' test, 3000rpm GB neutral vs GB 5th TC neutral. Maybe the TC is dampening vibrations from the engine, clutch & GB input.

I did an experiment to see how much difference the balance of the CV-donut makes.
I added an thin 1/2" washer to a bolt on the donut to unbalance it (maybe ~15 grams?).
But I wasn't brave enough to accelerate to 3000rpm 5th gear and do a measurement Laughing!
Vibration was worse than with the original UJ-donut - And very consistent, directly proportional to RPM.
So from that I (think?) we can conclude that my original unbalance UJ-donut was still less than ~15grams(?) out of balance.
And, (I think?) the unbalance I created made more difference than the improvement offered by the CV (not including real-world driving.).

So to anyone with consistent vibration issues (getting progressively worse through all RPM), I would suggest (aside from the usual alignment, fix cracked floor, etc) that you try to balance the donut joint (everything that spins).

I'm going to test the balance of mine (after possibly upsetting it) by adding some very thin shim washers (like ~2g?) to different bolts on the donut, and see if I can reduce vibration further.

I had another interesting problem, after my first attempting reassembling the CV-donut I had EXTREME vibrations happening suddenly, around ~2000rpm 5th gear.
So from 0-2000rpm everything is very very smooth, then immediately after ~2000rpm, BOOM!! If I didn't drop the RPM immediately, I'm sure something would break.
The problem was the CV sliding on it's spline, moving away from the donut, and I assume (happened too fast for my iPhone camera to pick up haha) being able to wobble around on the end of the spline.
The CV is held onto the spline by a snap-ring (or maybe it's just a "ring"... there's not much snap to it), and in my case it had un-snapped from it's groove, allowing the CV to slide back.

What I couldn't figure out (woulda been cool to have a high-speed video camera haha) is if the CV was simpling moving away from the doughnut, place the TC & CV joint on a greater angle, and creating the vibration. Or if the CV was actually getting after enough off the shaft to wobble.
So I'd suggest anyone with a CV-donut & unpredictable vibration to check that the CV can not move along it's splined shaft (ie, move away/towards the donut).


Also the front axle disconnect seems to work great, it looks & functions absolutely 100% OEM.
ie, the diff-lock lever now moves through 3 settings, with approximately the same amount of movement as stock, so the lever & rubber boot move together fine.
The positions are;
* Foward - RWD (Front output disconnected).
* Middle - "4WD" (Center diff locked + warning lamp on).
* Rear - "AWD" (Center diff unlocked).
The engagements are less smooth than my original unit, but it probably just needs grinding in Laughing; I can change between all 3 settings while driving straight ahead with a quick blip of the throttle while applying light pressure to the lever (like a couple of fingers, not a whole hand).
At first I thought it would be annoying with the center diff locked in the middle position, but it actually works out great; since the lever has less travel between settings, it's easy to change between RWD & "AWD" (ie foward & back, just like standard), but a little bit fiddly to stop in the middle & lock the diff - Which I think is a good thing.

My niva hasn't got any brakes at the moment, so I haven't done a road test.
But driving around the property (up to about ~60km/hr on rough dirt) everything feels much smoother, especially under acceleration.
RWD is damn fun(!!!) and lightens the steering, but I haven't noticed any noise/vibration reduction yet (pretty hard on my tracks & driveway.).

Next up I need to fix a few unrelated things (brakes Laughing), then I'll do some road tests and a ~1500km trip over easter, and I'll compare 2WD vs AWD fuel consumption if we do enough highway driving.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website MSN Messenger
nivaman
Articulating


Joined: 24 May 2006
Odometer: 929
Location: New Zealand



PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 4:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would be good to hear how you got on.
When i made the front diff mount for my Fiva, i made it too weak and it bent.
What this did was pulled the back of the diff up and rocked the t/c forward and that pulled the CV off its spline.
I fixed that by mounting the t/c with four mounts and welding the spline to the CV, fixing it in place as once it was loose it always popped out when the t/c moved on its two mounts.
This resulted in a smoothest Niva i have had, not to mention i had also fitted a Fiat 131 gearbox in place of the Lada original.

__________________________________
Lada a little car that takes you far.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
JamesLaugesen
Just got MTs


Joined: 15 Dec 2008
Odometer: 109
Location: Sydney, Australia


1992 Lada Niva

PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 5:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

nivaman wrote:
Would be good to hear how you got on.
When i made the front diff mount for my Fiva, i made it too weak and it bent.
What this did was pulled the back of the diff up and rocked the t/c forward and that pulled the CV off its spline.
I fixed that by mounting the t/c with four mounts and welding the spline to the CV, fixing it in place as once it was loose it always popped out when the t/c moved on its two mounts.
This resulted in a smoothest Niva i have had, not to mention i had also fitted a Fiat 131 gearbox in place of the Lada original.


Oo that's interesting.
I'm still worried that the CV might pull of it's spline again, which (as I guess you've seen) is real scary!
The stock design relies on the gearbox joint to stop the TC rocking... which seems stupid.
Can anyone think of any reasons why it might be designed like that? ... other than just oversight haha.

Otherwise the 4 TC mount mod (which I previously thought was a waste of time) is definitely a good idea!

Did you need to weld the CV spline or just do it for peace-of-mind?
I woulda thought it would be ok with 4 mounts for the TC.

Also how did you install the rubber boot? Or weld around it? Laughing.

With the UJ prop shafts, the TC must be perfectly horizontal to maintain equal angles for the opposing UJs.
The CV prop shafts eliminate that requirement... so I'd guess that holding the TC flat with 4 mounts probably cancels most of the benefit of CV prop shafts Laughing.

However, I think the CV-donut is definitely an important upgrade.
Since it seems impossible to align the TC and gearbox flanges without tilting the TC back (which will make the prop UJs unequal), and a single UJ on an angle is obviously a bad idea Laughing.

So, I'm sure the ultimate goal is;
- Gearbox & engine on whatever angle they happen to sit on.
- TC _perfectly_ horizontal (relative to both diff outputs... and hopefully the ground).
- TC at a height which places the output flange in-line with CV's center of rotation (ie, NOT inline with the donut.).
- CV at whatever angle is required to achieve the above.

... funnily enough that's exactly what the workshop manual says Laughing.

I assume that the rubber donut was intended to absorb only the unavoidable vibration resulting from the single UJ being at an angle (edit; and protect the GB from shock?).
So with a CV instead of UJ, and all-else set up exactly as Lada intended, we should have zero vibration Laughing.

And I suppose the CV-spline issue is just a limitation... it probably would never be a problem for Nivaman & I if we didn't pull ours apart.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website MSN Messenger
JamesLaugesen
Just got MTs


Joined: 15 Dec 2008
Odometer: 109
Location: Sydney, Australia


1992 Lada Niva

PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2011 11:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

An update Smile
So far I've driven about ~500km on sealed roads and ~200km on dirt with these mods, and it's driving soo soo smooth!

Previously during a typical trip (going to the shops or something), there would be a few very obvious "phases" of vibration.
I'm sure everyone who drives a Niva has the same thing haha.
Like, "Yeep, there's that 'accelerating hard from a traffic-light' vibration", etc.

That's all gone now (or at-least isn't any worse or more noticeable than my other cars.).

It is still pretty noisy (higher freq. than vibration).
I'm putting that down to an old after-market stainless exhaust system with dying muffler, and low-pitch rumble from the rear end (I think is the brake drums.).

nivaman wrote:
I fixed that by mounting the t/c with four mounts and welding the spline to the CV, fixing it in place as once it was loose it always popped out when the t/c moved on its two mounts.


I have this problem now too, CV spline is popping out under high toque.

Can you give me some tips on how you welded them together?

Since the car is driving great now when the CV is together, I'm just gunna weld them like you did and see how it goes.

I think with the other mods I could get away with just 2 TC mounts.
The CV rear prop seems to tolerate some movement in the TC, and I'll be in 2WD when I want a smooth ride, so the front UJ isn't an issue.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website MSN Messenger
JamesLaugesen
Just got MTs


Joined: 15 Dec 2008
Odometer: 109
Location: Sydney, Australia


1992 Lada Niva

PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2012 1:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi everyone, sorry for reviving this thread, but it seems the most appropriate place to let you all know that my Lada (the anti-vibration/noise project) is up for sale.

I'm NOT trying to advertise, so please don't kill this post haha.

Due to changed circumstances (far less time & a bit more money Laughing) I've turned to the dark side and bought something big and fancy.
So now I'm genuinely looking for someone who wants to take the Lada and keep running with the project.

I'm not out to recoup any costs (that'll never happen!), it'd just be a shame if it lived the rest of it's life being driven up my driveway to check the letterbox Laughing.

PM me if interested.

Cheers!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website MSN Messenger
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Difflock Forum Index -> Lada All times are GMT - 12 Hours
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot post calendar events in this forum
Oil Safe

Adrian Flux 2023

Facebook

Evo Oils

Service Kits

Join our mailing list for upcoming events, special offers, discount coupons and expert advice on the latest 4x4 products!

* indicates required





    
Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group