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teamidris Mud Obsessed
Joined: 24 Feb 2008 Odometer: 3372 Location: Staffordshire UK
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Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 9:00 am Post subject: KAM diff - Ashcroft Shafts - Front Axel RRC
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KAM landrover diffs now take standard shafts. But the diff end of the half shaft is shared between sun gear and 'quill shaft'. The quill shaft being the drive for the locking dog clutch. The sun gear has about 11mm of drive length. Much shorter than usual.
On the back the half shaft is held into this narrow diff drive area by the flanges circlips and threaded cap (ashcroft flange). On the front the half shaft finishes in the CV. The shaft is only supported by the CV at the CV end (suprised the seal holds any diff oil back). A ring looks like it stops the half shaft going too far into the CV.
My question is; does the CV inner touch the end of the outer and keep the shaft in the diff spline?
Cause that sounds a bit hinkey
Thanks in advance, Steve
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clbarclay Off-Road Guru
Joined: 22 Oct 2006 Odometer: 1779 Location: Worcesterhire
1987 Land Rover Range Rover
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Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 10:25 am Post subject:
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Any pics of the sun gear and inner end of the quill?
I can only find pics of the outer end of the quill on KAM's site
http://91.103.216.138/~kamdiffs/images/KAM%20Diff%20locker%20v1.jpg
(the pic is to big to be worth linking directly)
__________________________________ The Lord helps them as helps them selves
and the Lord help them caught helping there selves. |
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burko_uk Off-Road Guru
Joined: 21 Oct 2005 Odometer: 1017
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Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 3:14 pm Post subject:
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If I understand your question correctly, the CV joint should butt up against the stub axle, with a circlip against the drive flange "pulling" it. The inner halfshaft should then stay put with the spring washer that holds it in the CV joint.
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teamidris Mud Obsessed
Joined: 24 Feb 2008 Odometer: 3372 Location: Staffordshire UK
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Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 4:38 pm Post subject:
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I've stopped being daft now
The CV outer has curved tracks, not parrallel, so the CV inner is like a ball in a socket and cannot move in and out. Because it's trapped by the balls, the shaft (with clip as said) cannot move end on, only round and round Thats what keeps it all together and in the diff spline. Simples
Now then.........Seals. I bought a load of seals from Crads and Stafford rover. I grouped them all together.
Did you see where I put them?
I'd ask for torque settings, but I doubt I can find the wrench either
While I was hunting for them seals, I found some land rover kingpin lock tabs. Turns out they fit the RRC as well! So my loss has a partial gain. Next I'm going through the draws in the house
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teamidris Mud Obsessed
Joined: 24 Feb 2008 Odometer: 3372 Location: Staffordshire UK
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Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 7:14 pm Post subject:
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Found em'
In an old ice cream tub, on top of a display cabinet in the spare bedroom.
Why O why would I think that was a good place?
Searching shows I also have the parts book for a D9
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jamie_grieve Articulating
Joined: 19 Aug 2009 Odometer: 876 Location: South Scotland
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Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 2:16 pm Post subject:
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I'm guessing you were thinking about the inner CV joint on a front wheel drive that allows for plunge. Not such a stupid question.
Here's one though..
When the diff is in the locked position how much spline is being used?
11mm is not a lot at all for normal use though. I'd be surprised if the splines in the half shaft aren't simply worn away very quickly. I've changed more shafts due to wear than with breakage and on most of those the vehicles were armoured.
I remember a discussion we had a while ago talking about making our own fuseable links and one suggestion was to grind a drive flange down to 10mm or thereabouts so the splines would shear without breaking the shaft. Sounds like a disaster waiting to happen but I suppose KAM did their homework. Shame they won't sell me any lockers for my Santana axles
You got any pics of the inner splined end of the quill shaft (as above!!)
I've got an operators manual for a D4 in Portuguese you're very welcome to. It could sit right next to your one for the D9 and gather dust in good company. Why do we keep that crap? Will we really use it? Do you also give people chocolates at Christmas so they'll have a handy tin when they're finished?
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clbarclay Off-Road Guru
Joined: 22 Oct 2006 Odometer: 1779 Location: Worcesterhire
1987 Land Rover Range Rover
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Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 3:39 pm Post subject:
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I've have seen the splines in standard drive flanges shear when used with uprated halfshafs and a locker. There was a fair bit of head scratching wondering why there was no drive to a while and the halshaft looked pristine, until someone though to check the drive flange
Quote: | Do you also give people chocolates at Christmas so they'll have a handy tin when they're finished? Laughing |
Why else would you? After all you never know when you will need those used wheel bearings for a vehicle you no longer have We were recently clearing out an old farm workshop that hadn't been sorted properly for over 50 years, finding all sorts of unuseful spares like used big end bearings because you never know when you'll need them
__________________________________ The Lord helps them as helps them selves
and the Lord help them caught helping there selves. |
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teamidris Mud Obsessed
Joined: 24 Feb 2008 Odometer: 3372 Location: Staffordshire UK
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Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 7:18 pm Post subject:
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The D9 goes with the 955 loader book and RB54 user manual, so I guess they are grandad airlooms
Whatever you get on a standard 24 spline diff is shared between diff lock and sun gear. I hope KAM know what they are doing, or I just bought two pups But 300 miles in 15 years suggests I won't wear then out any time soon?
I contunially clear out stuff/junk like that for things I don't have. And have complete things I probably should get rid of too
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teamidris Mud Obsessed
Joined: 24 Feb 2008 Odometer: 3372 Location: Staffordshire UK
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Posted: Sun Apr 03, 2011 9:24 am Post subject:
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After some Sunday morning measuring it comes out like this;
A spring clip and spacer on the Ashcroft half shaft means it locks into the ashcroft CV.
A circlip on the end of the CV quarter shaft is trapped between flange and flange cap (Treaded steel, not rubber).
Rubber cap isn't going to work anyway, because the CV sits 4mm off the base of the bronze support bearing in the RRC Prefix 'A' stub axel. (top hat bearing). But theres' still plenty of support, as its quite deep. Plus, I dont know if the original CV ever sat fully in this support bearing?
At the diff end, the shaft is 4mm clear of the farthest in it could go. As it shouldn't really be touching the planet gear 'cross' shafts, and there is a 3mm end gap between cross and sun gear spline, I recon thats about right.
If I spaced the drive flange out 4mm, so that the CV was fully home in the top hat bearing of the stub axel, I would have to add a 4mm tube spacer between CV and half shaft. The location clip wouldn't work right and the CV spline area would be reduced. As the largest load on the CV will be with the diff lock engauged, I think this spline should be retained. In the diff end, the spline area is changed from sun gear to quill shaft during diff lock.
So the upshot is, that it all fits well enough Just don't think too hard about it
As a quick note if your doing this! 'B' hubs fit onto 'A' stubs, but the big adjustment nuts don't reach the wheel bearings.
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