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SUZUKINUTTER Just got MTs
Joined: 19 Sep 2007 Odometer: 379 Location: southampton
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Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 11:00 pm Post subject: g/box question
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will a 2.5na g/box work ok on a 200tdi?
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ralph Guest
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Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 11:03 pm Post subject:
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yes it's the same basic box but ratio's may be slightly different for the lower power n/a diesel engine
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SUZUKINUTTER Just got MTs
Joined: 19 Sep 2007 Odometer: 379 Location: southampton
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Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 11:11 pm Post subject:
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ok just looking for one to go in my series and got offered that one cheap
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jamie_grieve Articulating
Joined: 19 Aug 2009 Odometer: 876 Location: South Scotland
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Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 12:08 am Post subject:
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If it's an 88 the rear prop will be silly short. If it's a 109 make sure you grab the chassis mounts as well with the three holes in each side. Front spring bush middles make handy crush tubes to weld in You need a new clutch plate with fine splines as well. front UJ's in the axles don't really give problems like some say. if it's a 10 spline rear axle it might complain about the lower low range if you still have 4.7's in.
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Winnet Difflock Royalty
Joined: 03 Dec 2003 Odometer: 14725 Location: Aberdeen
1985 Land Rover
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Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 11:24 am Post subject:
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You will need to be careful if you are putting it into a Series Land Rover. The LT77 5-speed gearbox was designed for a permenant 4x4 system whereas the Series is part-time.
It is possible to convert the Series system but it could well involve CV joints and axle changes.
G.
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SUZUKINUTTER Just got MTs
Joined: 19 Sep 2007 Odometer: 379 Location: southampton
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Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 11:29 am Post subject:
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i am already running stage1 axles thanks for hint about the bush tubes
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SUZUKINUTTER Just got MTs
Joined: 19 Sep 2007 Odometer: 379 Location: southampton
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Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 11:31 am Post subject:
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jamie_grieve wrote: | If it's an 88 the rear prop will be silly short. If it's a 109 make sure you grab the chassis mounts as well with the three holes in each side. Front spring bush middles make handy crush tubes to weld in You need a new clutch plate with fine splines as well. front UJ's in the axles don't really give problems like some say. if it's a 10 spline rear axle it might complain about the lower low range if you still have 4.7's in. |
for got to say yes it is a 109
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andyb66 Just got MTs
Joined: 18 Jun 2004 Odometer: 236 Location: Ferndown, near Bournemouth
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SUZUKINUTTER Just got MTs
Joined: 19 Sep 2007 Odometer: 379 Location: southampton
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Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 4:02 pm Post subject: Re: g/box question
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andyb66 wrote: | SUZUKINUTTER wrote: | will a 2.5na g/box work ok on a 200tdi? |
You need to put the 2.5 n/a flywheel housing on the back of the 200 to get it to mate to the gearbox. |
whys that when they mate to a series3 box without mods?
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Jim Malcolmson Just got MTs
Joined: 09 Jul 2008 Odometer: 245 Location: ballymena hey
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Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 10:12 pm Post subject:
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there is a difference in the bolt position pattern. so by swaping the flywheel housing you dont need to worry about the holes not lining up correctly
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jamie_grieve Articulating
Joined: 19 Aug 2009 Odometer: 876 Location: South Scotland
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Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 10:34 pm Post subject:
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Most of the holes line up You can pull the existing back plate off the engine ( you might as well change the crank seal) and bolt it back on to the bell housing and use it as a guide and drill the offending holes. I'm getting rusty but I think one has 4 holes at the bottom where the other has three but I really do forget. Keep us posted what you had to do because it's good information we can all use in the future for reference.
If you're using stage 1 axles the spring perches are welded on at a slightly different angle to normal series ones. The front prop as standard had a double cardan joint to as part of the compromise of the whole thing. My recommendation would be to put the military extended shackles on which brings everything into line and the bottom mounting hole of the three on the gearbox mount goes about 25mm up from the bottom of the chassis rail.
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SUZUKINUTTER Just got MTs
Joined: 19 Sep 2007 Odometer: 379 Location: southampton
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Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 11:22 pm Post subject:
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jamie_grieve wrote: | Most of the holes line up You can pull the existing back plate off the engine ( you might as well change the crank seal) and bolt it back on to the bell housing and use it as a guide and drill the offending holes. I'm getting rusty but I think one has 4 holes at the bottom where the other has three but I really do forget. Keep us posted what you had to do because it's good information we can all use in the future for reference.
If you're using stage 1 axles the spring perches are welded on at a slightly different angle to normal series ones. The front prop as standard had a double cardan joint to as part of the compromise of the whole thing. My recommendation would be to put the military extended shackles on which brings everything into line and the bottom mounting hole of the three on the gearbox mount goes about 25mm up from the bottom of the chassis rail. |
thanks for that im running combat chassis with the extended mounts will look for flywheel housing as well
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