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g/box question

 
 
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SUZUKINUTTER
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 11:00 pm    Post subject: g/box question Reply with quote

will a 2.5na g/box work ok on a 200tdi?
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ralph
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 11:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes it's the same basic box but ratio's may be slightly different for the lower power n/a diesel engine
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SUZUKINUTTER
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 11:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok just looking for one to go in my series and got offered that one cheap
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jamie_grieve
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 12:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's an 88 the rear prop will be silly short. If it's a 109 make sure you grab the chassis mounts as well with the three holes in each side. Front spring bush middles make handy crush tubes to weld in Wink You need a new clutch plate with fine splines as well. front UJ's in the axles don't really give problems like some say. if it's a 10 spline rear axle it might complain about the lower low range if you still have 4.7's in.
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Winnet
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1985 Land Rover

PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 11:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You will need to be careful if you are putting it into a Series Land Rover. The LT77 5-speed gearbox was designed for a permenant 4x4 system whereas the Series is part-time.

It is possible to convert the Series system but it could well involve CV joints and axle changes.

G.

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SUZUKINUTTER
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i am already running stage1 axles thanks for hint about the bush tubes
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SUZUKINUTTER
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 11:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jamie_grieve wrote:
If it's an 88 the rear prop will be silly short. If it's a 109 make sure you grab the chassis mounts as well with the three holes in each side. Front spring bush middles make handy crush tubes to weld in Wink You need a new clutch plate with fine splines as well. front UJ's in the axles don't really give problems like some say. if it's a 10 spline rear axle it might complain about the lower low range if you still have 4.7's in.


for got to say yes it is a 109

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 12:31 pm    Post subject: Re: g/box question Reply with quote

SUZUKINUTTER wrote:
will a 2.5na g/box work ok on a 200tdi?


You need to put the 2.5 n/a flywheel housing on the back of the 200 to get it to mate to the gearbox.

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SUZUKINUTTER
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 4:02 pm    Post subject: Re: g/box question Reply with quote

andyb66 wrote:
SUZUKINUTTER wrote:
will a 2.5na g/box work ok on a 200tdi?


You need to put the 2.5 n/a flywheel housing on the back of the 200 to get it to mate to the gearbox.


whys that when they mate to a series3 box without mods?

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Jim Malcolmson
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 10:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

there is a difference in the bolt position pattern. so by swaping the flywheel housing you dont need to worry about the holes not lining up correctly
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jamie_grieve
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 10:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most of the holes line up Smile You can pull the existing back plate off the engine ( you might as well change the crank seal) and bolt it back on to the bell housing and use it as a guide and drill the offending holes. I'm getting rusty but I think one has 4 holes at the bottom where the other has three but I really do forget. Keep us posted what you had to do because it's good information we can all use in the future for reference.
If you're using stage 1 axles the spring perches are welded on at a slightly different angle to normal series ones. The front prop as standard had a double cardan joint to as part of the compromise of the whole thing. My recommendation would be to put the military extended shackles on which brings everything into line and the bottom mounting hole of the three on the gearbox mount goes about 25mm up from the bottom of the chassis rail.
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SUZUKINUTTER
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 11:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jamie_grieve wrote:
Most of the holes line up Smile You can pull the existing back plate off the engine ( you might as well change the crank seal) and bolt it back on to the bell housing and use it as a guide and drill the offending holes. I'm getting rusty but I think one has 4 holes at the bottom where the other has three but I really do forget. Keep us posted what you had to do because it's good information we can all use in the future for reference.
If you're using stage 1 axles the spring perches are welded on at a slightly different angle to normal series ones. The front prop as standard had a double cardan joint to as part of the compromise of the whole thing. My recommendation would be to put the military extended shackles on which brings everything into line and the bottom mounting hole of the three on the gearbox mount goes about 25mm up from the bottom of the chassis rail.

thanks for that im running combat chassis with the extended mounts will look for flywheel housing as well

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