Inner wing and floor replacement

sceh2004 · Winch Assistant Joined: 23 Sep 2004 Odometer: 95

I posted on this some months ago and then did a patch but the time is ripe to do it properly.
I need to replace the two front inner wings on a Disco 300tdi (1994) and need some advice. I remove the outer wing and it is screwed to a panel which goes from the headlight area to the windscreen. This is not part of the inner wing. Correct? I remove the plastic bit and then the inner wing. it seems welded in place. Correct? When I replace it, do I need to weld again or is riveting OK?

Another problem. The rear floor is rotten. If I look at photos of rear floor sections, it seems to be bolted into place with just four bolts (and a bit of mastic I assume. I this correct? Have a look here

http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DISCOVERY_1/Bod...loor_Section.html

The reason for the welding fear is that I am useless at welding panels and always manage to burn through plus I will probably set the car on fire..

thanks for any advice and apologies for the dual post

Cagey · Posted: Sun Sep 13, 2009 5:09 pm Post subject:

www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk

They are the people for panels (Inner wings etc) but don't think they do the boot floor panels, Paddocks will.

Let Luce · Posted: Sun Sep 13, 2009 6:41 pm Post subject:

paddocks do boot floor panels, I'm currently repairing a friends disco (1995 300tdi), started off as a bit of welding on the inner wheel arch and sorting the handbrake, it's currently sat outside with the back of the body jacked up by about 8" so I can weld on new body mounts. I've had to make repair sections for the lip the boot floor section sits on and is being a right pain in the ass.

sitrials · Posted: Sun Sep 13, 2009 8:08 pm Post subject:

either last months or even the previous months issue of LRO magaine had a how to fix inner wings on a disco 1

sceh2004 · Winch Assistant Joined: 23 Sep 2004 Odometer: 95

The rusting and the corrosion of the aluminium parts comes from a simple electrostatic effect ( or better, electrovoltaic effect) of the junction between the two metals. The only way to stop it is to ensure that there is no electrical contact between them - this is done by mastic usually and this is part of the problem. At the bottom of the doors, there is abrasion from water and dust do it does not take too long before the door panels show blisters (since the skin is aluminium and it corrodes first). It only takes a washer to be missing or a bit of bad mastic and the game is over. It takes a few years but is unstoppable. Finding the bad mastic joint is impossible in practice.
So I have two questions. Why does LR still use aluminium - this is no longer the war (which was the original reason) and when are they going to employ dealers who are not as moronic as the current ones who don't understand and don't want to know?
The classic sign is the standard roof rack - the joints about two inches from the mounting always start to lose paint - electrostatic corrosion in action - no painting or treatment can stop this. My Disco has the problem in spades...

gavin · Gate Opener Joined: 22 Aug 2002 Odometer: 40

Info on wings is here (pretty sure I got the link on this forum someplace)
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=8047&st=0&#entry90601
Boot floor is spot welded to cross bearers and there is a similar link somewhere that explains how to do it.

w3526602 · Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 5:51 am Post subject:

Hi,

I mentioned elsewhere that it is cheaper to buy a Disco with a long MOT, than to fix the one you already have. True? Dunno, but its my policy.

I bought my first Disco off Ebay. "Long MOT, but needs new sills", said the vendor. "Only £15 each". Yeah, only he didn't mention the £700 to fit them. Never mind, I got my money's worth out of that truck, then sold it for spares.

I understand that to replace the sills you have to remove the rear doors, then cut a big hole in the boot floor. Or so I'm told. Hence my interest in finding a kit body.

602

sceh2004 · Winch Assistant Joined: 23 Sep 2004 Odometer: 95

This is my current dilemma in fact. I bought the car new and it started to rust after one year. Landrover offered to pay for HALF of the repair costs - I should have sued...
So, I am really not sure if it is worth repairing. I need two new inner wings at the front and the boot floor has a hole in it (no idea what I'll find if I take the carpets out -scared to look..). The engine is sweet even though it has 280k kms on it - auto box. It would be nice if I could predict when it will blow up since this would influence my decision.
thoughts?

ando227 · Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 5:20 pm Post subject:

w3526602 · Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 5:49 am Post subject:

Hi Ando,

Nothing wrong with that philosophy. Its just that I'm getting old and stiff, and have to chose between working in mud. or have my feet sticking out into the traffic. But having said that, I still want a car to drive, and another car to tinker with, and another car for my wife. Then the dog needs a car that won't hurt if it gets muddy inside. Then you need a rare classic to brag about ...... and a Transit ...... and a camper......

602

ando227 · Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 8:30 pm Post subject:

i see where you are coming from. i was lucky to have the time and space.