Buying a big one?

mudplugga · Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 1:20 pm Post subject: Buying a big one?

I need a new tow truck, and the favorite is the big Cruiser with the 4.2 turbo diesel.

There's shedloads of the things around, Autotrader has dozens listed under Â£5,000 which would be my top price. There are 1993 ones for less than Â£3,000 - probably starship mileage at that price though?

So what's the deal with them?
Where do they rust, what goes wrong, are there models or options to avoid, what's expensive to fix?
I've looked at Milner Japanese parts prices and they seem good for regular service parts.

I've still got a LJ70, but that's being retired to the trailer for serious off roading, and I've had Yota's of one sort or another for over 20 years, I love them. But I don't get to hear anything about the big Cruisers.
Are they that good?
Dave

catandi · Just got MTs Joined: 05 Apr 2004 Odometer: 153

If you want it for towing, many say that they can't be beaten for power and also for comfort. I will be buying mine in january. The imported one's from japan are remarkably clean underneath and have rarely bean offroded seriously.

petenaud · Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2006 8:22 pm Post subject:

milners are very good, normally next day service Laughing

sarah · Just got MTs Joined: 17 Jun 2002 Odometer: 466

For UK spec cars there was VX with leather etc and GL without. Mechanically they are the same and mostly VX. Grey imports have different spec, don't get lockers or leather so check before you buy. Pretty reliable and mileage doesn't matter good for half a million or more! Don't know but don't think they are bad for rust either, the 60's rotted completely but the 80's seem pretty good

andyw · Posted: Wed Dec 06, 2006 3:53 pm Post subject:

The only problem has been big end bearings on high mileage motors, not a major job to change them, takes about 3-4 hours.

Read more about them here http://www.lcool.org/technical/80_series/80_series_technical.html

or http://www.tlocuk.co.uk/forums/index.php?sid=9e...fc6ef07eda18b454f

or here http://www.landcruiser-rocks.co.uk/index.php?na...B2&file=index

suzukishrek · Posted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 1:01 pm Post subject:

mudplugga · Posted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 11:07 pm Post subject:

The main thing seems to be the big end bearings at 100.000 miles or so, but as long as the cranks ok changing the shells is easy and cheap?

I like diesels, I tow a 4x4 on a big trailer and I'm used to them. But I doubt that the petrol is short of power!
But just how thirsty are they? And is LPG the answer?

There's also 2 diesel engines as well - I think?
And I gather they are completely different to each other.
Is it worth sticking out for one over the other, or isn't there much difference when they're driven?

I'm not really bothered about having all the toys and leather, except for aircon, so what trim levels are there? just to make looking through the Autotrader web site a bit easier!

Dave

ross_fj73 · Posted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 11:29 am Post subject:

Your correct about the bearings. As long as they are changed before they delaminate its an easy fix.

The petrol gets about 16 -18 mpg but towing will make it drink more.
Im no fan of LPG,its more to go wrong,you cant refill away from a servo and everyone I know who has LPG has a problem sooner or later.
Having said that, the 1FZ FE are the most reliable 4wd engine on LPG.
Some engines just wont accept it like the Pajero.
The LPG may not be so economical in hilly areas as it has less calorific value and you have to use a lot more when the engine works hard.
Probabaly best on long flat drives.
I remember a friend was surprised how much LPG his LC used in a day at the beach where my diesel 1HZ barely shifted the gauge

There are two diesels based on the same engine block,the non turbo 1HZ and the 1HD T turbo of which had 2 more upgrades and are known as the 1HD FT and the 1HD FTE (24valve twin cam).
The bearing problem was more or less fixed in the later models.
Its out of production as from last October

The non turbo is truly a great motor but a little slow in a 80 series and especially for towing ,however I have a friend who uses one in his tow business and he is quite happy with it after 300000klms

tlc42td · Posted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 10:51 pm Post subject:

In the UK, the 80 series model range is VX, GX and GS. GS is not badged anywhere as such, but has solid rear window (not a slider) and has steel wheels which for me are preferable to alloys because they are stronger and the alloys look horrible if not maintained.

Early 80s 1990-1992 had 15 inch alloys, four spoke design. Petrol model was 4.0 and not fantastic.

Until 1995, all 80s prone to cracking at the base of the C-pillar if used off-road, although I've never seen this personally.

After 1995, bigger front bumper, simpler grille design, new dashboard (IMHO looks much better). All UK 80s have manual gearbox and 24 valve engine. Any 24v with auto is an import. This engine is sensitive to fuel pump adjustment and can seem very sluggish if not correctly set... very easy diy to adjust... but again just know this from Internet research, although i can confirm that my 24v is very sluggish below 2000 rpm, but like a rocket (well...) between 2000 and 3000 rpm. I haven't adjusted it because i get great economy as is.

marsie · Posted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 11:14 pm Post subject:

I bought a 1993 4.2 auto to tow my winch challenge car and trailer(almost 3.5tons).It replaced a 3.9 v8i discovery which was a fantastic towcar but the landcruiser is in a different league as a towcar.
The downside is the fuel economy,solo it struggles to reach 23mpg and towing around 18-20mpg but this is a small price to pay for a car that can get upto 60 mph up a 1 in 6 hill from a standing start while towing 3.5 tons

If you want it as a towcar you wont be dissapointed
Paul Twisted Evil

mudplugga · Posted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 11:56 pm Post subject:

From what I read the big end bearing problem is crappy shell bearings rather than a crank or lube problem, and if caught in time can be changed without grinding the crank.
And the replacements are better than the ome ones and last longer?

The lpg conversion is tempting because that is a good engine, and I know someone in the lpg conversion business. His Range Rover is so damn good on gas that you can't tell the difference. He actually trialled a bobtail, that I drove a lot as well, which ran on lpg with no problems at all.

The mpg of the diesel seems better than my Daihatsu Fourtrack!
Which is the advantage of a big unstressed engine.

I think I'm convinced, the Cruiser wins over a 3.9 Rangey with lpg.

Dave

ross_fj73 · Posted: Tue Dec 19, 2006 10:10 am Post subject:

wildsmith · Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 11:44 pm Post subject:

I had bad bearings on mine (1994, approx 130k) but caught them before they failed completely and the crank was fine. Wife's (1993, approx 120k) were like brand new still...

Jon.

mudplugga · Posted: Sun Dec 31, 2006 4:53 pm Post subject:

Thanks for the info' guys, it was what I needed.

I guess the failing big ends are accompanied by a rumble when hot?

Dave

ross_fj73 · Posted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 12:41 am Post subject:

marsie · Posted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 10:28 pm Post subject:

Well after much pondering i have decided to sell my 80 to buy a newer model,may not be a good move but i have been offered a 100 series.Put mine in classifieds but i guess deep down i dont care if it doesnt sell Rolling Eyes

.
Paul

wildsmith · Posted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 12:25 am Post subject:

Roofus · Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 3:54 pm Post subject:

My 4.2TD started ticking.......5 miles later it was clattering.......thankfully I was home by then! Big end bearings gone......and caused further damage aswell!

The ticking was in time with the revs........initially at 60mph it sounded like a leaf stuck in the demister fan.......didn't take long to become much worse!!

I'd certainly look first! Ticking to clattering was quick!!!!

The bill will no doubt be big too! Sad