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HELP! Anyone got an inlet valve spring for an M180?

 
 
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shaggy
Articulating


Joined: 08 Feb 2007
Odometer: 560
Location: Manchester, UK


1961 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 404 Doka

PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2008 2:46 pm    Post subject: HELP! Anyone got an inlet valve spring for an M180? Reply with quote

I was doing the valve clearances today and discovered we've a snapped valve spring. Anyone got one knocking about??????

Cheers,

jim

__________________________________
Bright Orange Unimog 404 DoKa
www.foodfight.org.uk/mog
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mike97
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PostPosted: Thu May 08, 2008 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got a seized engine in the garage that i m happy to rob bits off, your welcome to have spring, do they come off easily?
Must get round doing the valve clearance's on my mog, what are like to do.

mike
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shaggy
Articulating


Joined: 08 Feb 2007
Odometer: 560
Location: Manchester, UK


1961 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 404 Doka

PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2008 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mike97 wrote:
I've got a seized engine in the garage that i m happy to rob bits off, your welcome to have spring,

I was stealing one off our spares mog while you were typing - I'd wanted to keep it complete as a donor for a high compression head, but needs must....

mike97 wrote:

do they come off easily?

If you don't care about the engine, you can take the rocker off by pushing the valve down with a spanner levered under the cam and the rocker comes right off - this works for most of them. Then you can put something through the plug hole, hit the collet with a socket and a hammer and bob's your uncle. Don't do this on the real one though!

We filled the bore with string and then compressed it - this gives the valves something to push against. I made my own valve compressing tool and it came off easy enough for the swap.

mike97 wrote:

Must get round doing the valve clearance's on my mog, what are like to do.

If they work as intended, it's easy. Classic OHC rocker setup, but with a couple of things to note

- There are no lock nuts on the adjusters, they're held in place by tallow!!!
- Take off little cover that's hidden by the dog house - it's 1 1/2" by maybe 6" - needed to get the valve cover off.
- USE THE PROPER HAZET TOOL. This is worth shouting about, no spanner or lesser crows foot will work. You WILL round the nuts. I don't have one, I borrow one.

There's often a recalcitrant one or two, which are jammed or have been previously rounded (apart from the broken spring, I had two of these!). There's two ways to fix these.

- Take off the rocker retaining spring, this gives you access to more of the sides and you may get a better grip. This fixed one of ours.
- Compress the valve and take the rocker off. You can then use a socket to free it up, or make a guess adjustment. Once our second one was free, I could then adjust it with the crows foot wrench.

It makes a huge difference, our sounds even better now, although I am amazed how nicely it ran with a broken spring!

jim

__________________________________
Bright Orange Unimog 404 DoKa
www.foodfight.org.uk/mog
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mike97
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PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 8:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting to hear yours runs better now, Ive never been able to get my 404 to run very well, wont tick over below 1000 rpm, bit gutless too. rebuilt and set up the carb, tried a different carb, replaced plugs, points, etc, checked timing, done a compression test. The only thing i haven't checked is valve clearances, so hoping this might help Rolling Eyes

Did you ever get round to replacing your king pins? got to do mine over next few weeks, just got a kit from Manfred with all the bushes, pins etc. another job on the list Laughing

mike
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shaggy
Articulating


Joined: 08 Feb 2007
Odometer: 560
Location: Manchester, UK


1961 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 404 Doka

PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mike97 wrote:
Interesting to hear yours runs better now, Ive never been able to get my 404 to run very well, wont tick over below 1000 rpm, bit gutless too. rebuilt and set up the carb, tried a different carb, replaced plugs, points, etc, checked timing, done a compression test. The only thing i haven't checked is valve clearances, so hoping this might help :roll:

That's a shame - ours has always run well. They don't have power, but the torque is incredible. Is the original military dizzy? I assume it doesn't have military wires.

mike97 wrote:
Did you ever get round to replacing your king pins? got to do mine over next few weeks, just got a kit from Manfred with all the bushes, pins etc. another job on the list :lol:

No, we've taken the portal box off spares mog to see what the crack is. How much was the kit?

ta,

jim

mike[/quote]

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Bright Orange Unimog 404 DoKa
www.foodfight.org.uk/mog
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mike97
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PostPosted: Mon May 12, 2008 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well at the moment my engine seems lack power and torque Crying or Very sad the dizzy is a normal civilian spec, so normal plugs and leads too. Spent a bit of time on it today, think the fuel lift pump may be tired as i have to crank the engine for some time before it fires, poss fuel starvation? Looking forward to getting it running sweet!

The king pin kit was about £50 ish it comprises of top and bottom pins and top and bottom bushes for both sides. genuine Merc parts too!

mike
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shaggy
Articulating


Joined: 08 Feb 2007
Odometer: 560
Location: Manchester, UK


1961 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 404 Doka

PostPosted: Mon May 12, 2008 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

>the dizzy is a normal civilian spec, so normal plugs and leads too.
You got the vacuum on OK? How does it move with revs (timing light)? We could lend you a known working military dizzy (we have civy as well).

>to crank the engine for some time before it fires, poss fuel starvation?
If it has sat for more than a few days ours takes ages to start as well. It's about a 2 1/2 foot head twixt tank and carb, so unless the leather flaps are pristine it *will* flow back. How does it start after being sat for 6 hours? From memory the fuel pump is a doddle to service, with a bit of vaseline! Again, we have a spare somewhere.
Check the two way valve from the tanks - we removed ours - too much of a pain.
What filters have you got? The silly little filter can get blocked (we removed it, and use a normal one).
The pickups at the top of the tanks have a banjo type fittings, these can suck **** up and get blocked.
Have you looked in the air filter? I cleaned ours when we got it, and then not for 2 years, the difference was staggering, it had about 4 kilos of sand in the oil!

>Looking forward to getting it running sweet!
Do, I still can't get over what an absolute hoot it is to drive. I can out handle most cars....

>The king pin kit was about £50 ish it comprises of top and bottom pins
>and top and bottom bushes for both sides. genuine Merc parts too!
Let me know how you get on.

jim "I'm sure this is meant to be about valves!"

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Bright Orange Unimog 404 DoKa
www.foodfight.org.uk/mog
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PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2008 4:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, yep i know this topic was on the valves, but hey we digress!

Not checked the vacuum advance on the dizzy yet, I would be surprised if that was the problem, as it only advances the timing on overrun (vauum in the manifold). Ill let you know if i need to borrow a dizzy, thanks.

As for the starting, mine takes ages even when left for a couple of minutes! Fuel pipes are new, tank is clean, diverter valve thrown away (too crusty to use, only using the front tank at present.) new inline filter.

Only thing left is the lift pump, must find time to pull it apart to check, i may fit a electric pump as a temporary measure, to see if it cures the fault.

Will let you know how i get on the the king pins.

thanks for you help.

mike
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shaggy
Articulating


Joined: 08 Feb 2007
Odometer: 560
Location: Manchester, UK


1961 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 404 Doka

PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2008 10:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mike97 wrote:

i may fit a electric pump as a temporary measure, to see if it cures the fault.
mike

Beware, the float valve works on very low pressure, most electric pumps will overwhelm it and flood the carb. Those that fit a 'leccy pump also fit a bypass/return valve.

One of my most useful "tools" is a 1 litre mower tank. Easy to put a hose on, and you can build a head with it. Got anything like that?

jim

__________________________________
Bright Orange Unimog 404 DoKa
www.foodfight.org.uk/mog
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mike97
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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep a mower tank is a good idea, i was going to use a SU pump, fitted to loads of older cars (mg's, minis etc) they run low pressure and stop pumping when the float valve closes, they dont have a return pipe either.

let you know how goes.

mike
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mike97
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PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2008 8:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi dennis,
so what is the spec. for the M130? and what mercs are they fitted in as standard?
Long term I would love to go Diesel, but at the moment i dont have the cash do it. As the mog is just a toy, i dont do may miles, so petrol is fine.
Mike
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mike97
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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2008 8:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Dennis,

Thanks for the info, make intresting reading. quite often see old 250/ 280 saloons about, if i see one at the right price i might get it and treat the mog a bit more power Laughing

thanks mike
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mike97
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PostPosted: Thu May 29, 2008 4:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, Done my valve clearances at last, didn't need the special tool that Mercedes recommend, just used a normal 14mm open ended spanner, easy! However, engine still running sick Crying or Very sad , Fuel pump is working as it should, carb is off now undergoing a full rebuild, hopefully that should do the trick. Rolling Eyes

mike
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